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Oasis Days: Pisco, Desert Wine And An Earthquake
Carlos in Nasca asked us one of the funniest and most unusual questions we’ve ever been asked on our travels. The conversation went along the lines of… “So, in England it rains a lot, yes?” “Well, yes, on lots of days” “And sometimes it rains at night?” “Yes” “And you can hear that it is raining?” “Well….yes” “I cannot understand. How would you be able to sleep if you can hear the rain?” So here speaks a man whose whole life has been spent in the desert, a man who cannot even conceive of a world where you would be able to fall asleep to the sound of rain. Doesn’t…
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Journey To One Of The World’s Greatest Mysteries: Lima-Paracas-Nasca
The word “luxury” is often applied to buses in the same way as the word “boutique” is applied to hotels: at best meaningless and at worst downright untrue. Not so with the bus company Cruz del Sur whose genuinely luxurious seats and smooth ride bring us in real comfort from Lima to the small coastal town of Paracas, over three hours south and only for a modest fare. Paracas is a quirky little town, a weekend getaway for city dwellers and a stopping point for tour operators, meaning that for a small place it has a disproportionate number of seafront restaurants which are either rammed full or begging for business…
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More Of Lima: Ancient Sites, Traffic Jams And Guinea Pigs
Wednesday, 5:30am. Manuel and his driver are pretty prompt as they collect us from our base and head out into Lima’s streets which are, mercifully, free at this early hour of the traffic which clogs the city for the rest of the day. Kevin from Newcastle NSW is already on board and a few minutes later we collect the giant 6ft 7in Mario of Split who has to perform contortions to wedge his elongated body into the cramped seats of the minibus. We’re headed out of the city today, out towards a mysterious place of ancient intrigue more than three hours north of Lima. The sprawling, seemingly endless suburbs of…
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Peru Begins: Exploring The Splendid City Of Lima
Some cities really win you over – easy to feel part of, full of life, with an infectious vibrancy which pulses through the streets. Lima has all of this and so much more…..grand plazas, tidy green spaces, impressive and varied architecture, even a dramatic stretch of coastline. The more we wander, the more we find, and the more we love. There is so much to see, so many good things to tell, that it’s hard to know where to start. Maybe we’ll start with food….. Any country which states that it is the birthplace of ceviche, and still boasts it as its national dish, has got to be a country…
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More Glimpses Of Paradise: From Palawan To Coron
As we have done every evening in El Nido, we fall asleep to the sound of waves breaking just beneath our balcony almost but not quite drowning out the throbbing beat of club music. The terrific position of our room right on the seafront comes with a disproportionate price premium, these are by far the most expensive digs of our entire trip yet are a long way from being the best, in serious need of some of that premium being spent on a bit of TLC. Cracking view though. A second boat trip – Tour C this time as opposed to our earlier sortie on Tour A – and a…
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Funny Moments: Smiles From The Philippines
Again again again again again, see you again…. Every journey brings its funny moments, little encounters which we will always remember with a smile. We don’t always put these in our blog posts – sometimes they don’t fit with the narrative, sometimes they aren’t relevant to the remainder of the text, sometimes we demur just in case someone finds them offensive or insulting. But there’s been quite a few here, so here’s a sample…. It’s customary at tourist sites in the Philippines for those employed in the tourist trade to wear T-shirts with their name and job title on the back – you might get, for instance, “Archie – BOATMAN”…
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El Nido: Paradise Lost, Then Paradise Regained
There are bars in El Nido with bean bags. There’s a point in life when, and for me it was probably around ten years ago, bean bags become a no go area, impossible to get down to, impossible to get up from, impossible to enjoy beer in whilst perched there like a sleeping dog in a favourite basket. The fact there are bean bags here should be a warning: El Nido is a young person’s place. Both Boracay and El Nido describe themselves as paradise locations – maybe somebody somewhere would attach that particular moniker to the town of El Nido but, as we saunter through the streets here, it’s…
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Puerto Princesa And Another Of The World’s Seven Wonders
Tempted fate now, haven’t I? I really should have known better than to instigate a conversation about the fact that the Philippines has been kind to our tummies with not a hint of an upset in over six weeks. Michaela wakes up in Puerto Princesa with all of the warning signs; by breakfast she can only manage half of her omelette and by lunchtime her body has gone into that “I am going to force you to lay down and sleep while I work on curing this problem” mode which we all know from travel. But she’s blessed with what we in football circles call bouncebackability and by Monday we’re…
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Moving Through The Islands: Bohol-Boracay-Palawan
It so often seems to be like this, both in travel and in life itself. The things you think might go wrong, don’t – and the things you think will be smooth, aren’t. Even before we start, our journey from Alona to Boracay doesn’t look straightforward, what with seven separate segments through the day. What kind of things might go wrong? Well, what if the 6:30am taxi is late? It’s not. What if the ferry is delayed, or affected by bad weather? It’s neither. What if it’s hard to find a taxi from Cebu ferry port to airport? It’s easy. So we’re at Cebu airport maybe an hour earlier than…
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Alona Gain, Naturally
Well, it’s fair to say that after our gratifyingly varied journey through the Philippines we’ve definitely arrived in the holiday market tourist bit. Down at the bottom of the island of Bohol lies the small island of Panglao, and down at the bottom of Panglao lies the village of Alona, where it’s impossible to walk any distance without enjoying exchanges with tour operators, tat jewellery sellers, hair braiders, boat owners and boys selling fresh mango. Nobody’s pushy but everybody wants business and there seems to be plenty to go around. It looks like Alona is booming too. Construction sites are a major feature, whether a new chunky hotel, spaces between…
