Porto: Too Many Reasons To Be Cheerful
As twilight descends on the wide Douro river, the roof mounted lettering on the tops of buildings on the opposite bank light up to reveal Company names advertising their famous wares. Some of them are familiar – Sandemans, Cockburn’s, Taylor’s, Dow’s – others less so, but regardless of whether we know them or not, they are all big names in the business which is literally synonymous with this city.
Porto isn’t just cheerful, it’s also full of cheer, contributing significantly to our and every other visitor’s alcoholic intake with its proud history of wine production relentlessly pushed at every corner. Reds, whites and vinho verde from the Douro Valley, port from this area which is the only one in the world permitted to give that name to its fortified wine, flight-tasting opportunities chalked on the blackboards of every one of those named houses and at multiple wine bars beyond. You can’t help but be drawn in. You consume it, it consumes you. Maybe the other way round.
Actually, the “opposite” bank of the Douro River, which is home to all of those port cellars, isn’t in Porto at all, but is instead in the separate town of Vila Nova da Gaia, connected to its larger neighbour by the magnificently huge Ponte de Dom Luis I whose iconic metallic form towers over both the city and the town. Porto in its greater sense is ridiculously pleasing on the eye, rising steeply up the granite sides of the valley at an impossible angle, church towers peeking over red roof tiles in a vista so strikingly sheer as to look like a classical oil painting. It’s an eye candy city if ever there was such a thing. Beneath it all the mighty Douro marches on, powerful, resourceful and unfazed by all that goes on around it.
Of the six bridges over the Douro, the Luis I stands out with a satisfyingly majestic asymmetry. Constructed between 1881 and 1886 under the direction of the wonderfully named Thèophile Seyrig, a former partner of Gustav Eiffel who himself graced Porto by building one of the other five, the lofty bridge now carries a metro line on the top level, buses and taxis lower down, pedestrians on both. Crossing the top level is a must-do whilst here in Porto, just to soak in the vast views of the whole appealing valley city.
The metro system, much of which is above ground, forms part of an efficient and well integrated public transport system which also boasts trams, buses, ferry boats and a funicular railway, though of course only one of these can master the steepest of the hills. Getting around is easy; scaling those hills though calls for regular refuelling stops, usually in the wine department. A couple of shots of port and it’s not just the wine that’s fortified.
Porto is hot and busy, but we mind neither. We enjoy the heat of the sunshine of southern Europe – why wouldn’t you? – and are well travelled enough to understand that you can’t see wonderful places without others being there too. Porto is, if you needed it, finite proof that hot and busy can still equal fantastic. It’s a terrific city, and the Douro carries that unmistakably calm pride of a major waterway.
But the port and wine industry dominates. We do our very best to pay homage worthy of our travel instincts of delving into local food and drink culture, testing out the five port varieties of sweet white, regular white, rosé, tawny and ruby as well as Douro reds, Douro whites and local vinho verde, even partaking in the local refresher of porto tonico – white port mixed with tonic water, ice and basil. The entire wine scene is so indulgent that it’s almost difficult to fit in a cold beer – though of course we do manage to.
Talking of delving into local cuisine, there’s probably nowhere better in Porto to do it than at the Mercado do Bolhāo, where a number of wine and port producers have their own stalls, outnumbered by those offering petiscos, the Portuguese equivalent of pinxhos. Grab a glass, pick up a plateful of little bites, find a place on the steps in the sun, and take your tastebuds through the pearly gates and into a little piece of culinary heaven. We’ve travelled the world “eating local”, and we can tell you that this experience is right up there. Be still, my foodie heart, for there is more.
Port wine is protected. Long before the EU or any other organisation began designating protected geographical naming rights, in fact as far back as 1756, the Douro Wine Company (Portuguese title CGAVAD) decreed that only fortified wine from this part of the Douro Valley could carry the name “port”. In fact, for over two centuries, the name could only be applied if the wine had travelled along the Douro from vineyard to Vila Nova da Gaia in large oak barrels on the traditional boats, then subsequently warehoused and ultimately bottled there. It’s changed since the damming of the river, and can now be bottled up in the valley, but in times gone by, the valley slopes were considered too hot for the storage and bottling processes, the cooler warehouses downstream being taken to be eminently more suitable.
The protected geographical designation still survives, of course, as does the absolutely unmissable sense of pride that this city, this valley, is able to give something unique to the world. Funnily enough, the British played a major role in the story of Porto, Douro and its famous produce. Denied access to French wine by ongoing disputes with our “friends” across the Channel, enterprising British importers came here in search of something new, struck a deal with the Portuguese, and the rest, as they say, is history. It’s not by coincidence that those names on the warehouse roofs in Gaia are recognisably British.
So absorbed are we by the business of booze that we’ve barely mentioned the stunning architecture of this major city, a city where even the interior of a train station draws visitors simply to admire the grandeur of its construction and the beauty of its tiling. There’s more photographers than passengers here at any time of day. Elsewhere, Porto has a wonderfully photogenic majesty, but, so deep are we into the food and wine experience, Michaela’s photos will have to do the talking.
Suffice to say that Porto, despite many diversions and construction sites in evidence as an additional metro line takes shape, has a wealth of grand palaces and lofty churches looking out across the river from on high, and every single street seems to boast the beautifully tiled azulejo houses for which Portugal is so renowned. But the inescapable truth is that wherever you are, whichever architectural street or grand panorama you’re viewing, you’re never very far from your next sip of nectar.
It’s time to break from the city before our livers start to object. Shall we grab our first glimpse of rural Portugal? Yes! How about a trip up the Douro Valley to the world famous wine region? Now that would make for a pleasant change….
46 Comments
Eha Carr
Ooh-aah . , , to begin with I had no idea Porto was located on both sides of the Douro River and until this moment thought there were just tawny port, which I like, and ruby port! Wonderful photos I have come to expect from you lead to quite some understanding why this city is so popular with travellers worldwide. Fantastic architecture with a train station unbelievable when compared with the pedestrian feel of most in the world. The place, the way you have presented it, presents ‘happy’ which leads to ‘Oh, I would love to be there . . . lucky you . . , well, clever you . . . 🙂 ! Somehow I draw a few comparisons with Budapest at the other end of Europe > another ‘happy city of Buda and Pest on two sides of a river with a multitude of bridges and a steep slope as with Buda and signs and wine and marvellous markets . . . now, to decide which of the petiscos to have for breakfast . . .
Phil & Michaela
You’re not alone, Eha…as we stood on the “other” side looking back at the layout of the city, we too said it put us in mind of Budapest. Definitely a fun place to spend a few days.
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Yes, Porto is amazingly photogenic. I haven’t visited in a quite a few years but I remember all the great food and of course, the port. Such an historic and really wonderful city. Great post, Phil.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, Lynette. Porto is definitely a tourist destination now but is still a beautiful city, and a lot of fun for a stay of a few days..
Travels Through My Lens
We’ve visited Portugal several times but haven’t been to Porto. We’re really regretting that now. It looks so inviting and beautiful. I think I might have needed a nap after the generous pours of the port tasting!
Phil & Michaela
Ha ha yes, it can take its toll! Such an attractive city though, very rewarding despite being very popular
Helen Devries
Oh the days of port in all its glories! And on its home ground at that! No wonder you are having so good a time! The architecture helps no doubt….but, oh! the port!
From which you may divine that it is unknown here…apart from a rotgut fake variety from Guatemala….
A friend was in Prtugal last year….and suggests a river trip in a Rabelo – or modern variety of such – to Regua and then the train up the valley to Pocinho on the old Porto-Salamanca line.
I’ve just had a look and there is an historical train from Regua to Tua as well…..usual offers of folklore, port and gifts.
Phil & Michaela
Beautiful city, Helen, with lots of benefits. Yep, the boat and train combination came next, and can thoroughly recommend! The Douro Valley is really gorgeous, hopefully our next post will do it justice!
Monkey's Tale
Sigh… isn’t it wonderful?! But I doubt your livers are drying out in Duoro. And don’t worry, every Lidl in the country has good Duoro wines 🍷😊
Phil & Michaela
Yes, a terrific city with so much to offer, such an attractive and photogenic place.
Miriam
What an absolutely gorgeous city, Porto looks like the sort of place we could happily spend some time in. Of course all that good vino and port doesn’t hurt either! Cheers. And keep enjoying!
Phil & Michaela
It’s so photogenic it’s ridiculous! Lovely city with lots going for it, Miriam.
WanderingCanadians
Porto looks lovely. The architecture and all that blue and white tile work is beautiful. And the wine sounds delicious! Sounds like you’re off to a great start in Portugal. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
So far so good…..😃
Toonsarah
I really like Lisbon and have visited several times, including twice for football, but haven’t yet made it to Porto. I’ve always fancied the look of it however and this post only confirms my impression that I would love it too! Michaela’s photos of the train station, churches and tiled houses all make the city look so appealing 🙂 I have to confess I don’t like port (too sweet, usually, and too heavy) but I do like other Portuguese wines, and a chilled glass (or several!) of vinho verde on a hot day is very hard to beat.
Phil & Michaela
There’s quite a variety of flavours in the port range, my thoughts were the same as yours until I worked my way through the range. Porto is definitely worth a trip!
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
Having recently visited Porto, Gaia, and the Douro Valley, this post made me a bit homesick. Revisiting my own photos now. I recall that we found the waterfront (Porto side) a bit seedy (tourist-centric) this time around, but enjoyed it nevertheless. Midtown was more to our liking. We have heard that revitalization is being considered and are hopeful that it will upgrade, but not change the character and atmosphere of the waterfront. Nothing beats the view from the bridge. Looking forward to your photos from the Douro Valley. That is a place we could visit again and again…
Phil & Michaela
Yep, as we said, hot and busy and very much tourist driven, but still very enjoyable for all that. We stayed right near Sao Bento station so the more gentle (and cheap) midtown was on our doorstep.
restlessjo
Did I detect a hint of port-induced blurring on some of those landscape shots? Perish the thought! I do hope they don’t spoil the place too much before I get back there. Happy onward journey to you both… hic! xx
Phil & Michaela
It’s already very touristy in Porto but hugely enjoyable nonetheless, Jo. Time to dry out a bit now I reckon!
Linda K
Porto is an incredibly beautiful city! So many colourful buildings and places to explore…or just sit and enjoy the port and take in the view!
Phil & Michaela
Yep, it certainly has a happy vibe..
Angela
Great post! I haven’t been to Porto yet, but now I really want to go. It looks so lively and full of charm. Loved the photos too!
Phil & Michaela
Great city despite its obvious popularity with tourists. Unbelievably pleasing on the eye!
Angela
Wonderful! I always have a visual starvation 🙂
Heyjude
What a lovely post. As always after reading one I become very hungry! I think Porto is perhaps too busy for me these days, not to mention too hilly and I am not a port drinker, but I do like a nice cold Vinho Verde and I do like that architecture. More great photos from Michaela.
Phil & Michaela
Well, I didn’t think I was a port lover until you try lots of varieties. There’s something for everyone in the end! Porto is so attractive, Jude. Attractive enough to still enjoy despite its popularity.
grandmisadventures
How could you be anything but cheerful in such a beautiful place- good food, good wine, beautiful views. If that’s not a recipe for happy I don’t know what is 🙂 Every time I see pictures of Porto I just love those incredible blue tiles
Phil & Michaela
It’s a very enjoyable city, Meg…lots going for it!
wetanddustyroads
Your visit to Porto brings back such wonderful memories. If we hadn’t walked the Camino, we probably would have stayed here longer (and enjoyed more port and wine 😁). That classic view over Porto is lovely – Michaela took so many beautiful photos here. I love the train station (and everything else). Even though we just had dinner, I’m ready to eat more after seeing your plates of food! Great post!
Phil & Michaela
Lots to love about Porto, Corna, though I do get why some say it’s over touristed. Personally, we enjoyed it!
I. J. Khanewala
Porto was such a pleasant surprise when I visited almost a decade ago. It’s a really friendly and laid back place, with good food and great vibes. Thank you for bringing it all back.
Phil & Michaela
It’s still a great city even though probably more popular since you last came. So spectacular…
Annie Berger
I loved how you paid homage to Porto’s wines, food, stunning blue-tiled architecture, its magnificent bridges, and the city’s friendly and bustling spirit. Your aptly named blog, “The Hungry Travelers,” looks like it was tailor made for Porto!
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Annie – yes, as we said, Porto is a fun city despite its popularity…
The Flask Half Full
Porto is one of my favorite world cities. The Port wine is outstanding. Looks like you got to try a Porto tonic – yum! Have you come across Ginjinha & Licor Beirão yet?? Also try to find Singeverga – it’s a monastic liquor. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
I think you’ve just sent me on a treasure hunt…
The Flask Half Full
Of the very best kind!!
MrsWayfarer
Hoping one day we can also visit Porto. For now, thank you for letting me tag along virtually.
Phil & Michaela
Absolutely recommended, if you don’t mind the crowds. And you’re ready to indulge!
leightontravels
Porto looks great through your eyes, no wonder you are so cheerful, Ian Dury would approve. The wine culture is fascinating, I’m honestly not much of a wine drinker, but hey when in Porto… Love the shots of you with all the drinks lined up, though I’m left a touch disappointed there aren’t “after” images too 😉 It all looks fabulous, the balconies, the architecture, those distinctive tiles, the blue of the river/sea and sky. The blue House is just spectacular.
Phil & Michaela
Porto is a very enjoyable city – actually a city where it’s easier to have a good time than anything else! It’s a visually stunning city, so pleasing on the eye.
Anonymous
You nailed a good chuck of Porto. We loved our visit and a return one is on the books. Cheers
Phil & Michaela
Not a bad city huh
Andrew Petcher
I first went to Porto in 2005 almost before it had been discovered as a tourist destination and certainly before the cruise ships. It was fabulous, across the water the Port lodges gave free tasting tours, free tasting tours!, Porto remains fabulous but rapidly changing.
Phil & Michaela
We certainly enjoyed our time there…great city.