NZ Road Trip: Queenstown To Milford Sound
Heading out of Queenstown towards our next destination we detour first to the small but absorbing Arrowtown, another gold rush town but one with an additional draw. Like Reefton before on this NZ odyssey Arrowtown has all of the classic looks of a gold rush town, so reminiscent of those in California and, we are sure, other locations worldwide, its main street looking like something from the Wild West. But there’s an additional twist here in the shape of the reconstructed and renovated Chinese village where the homes of emigrants from that country came in search of fortune.
How odd it must have been to hear rumours – rumours is all they were, surely, there was after all no international media in the late 19th century – of the discovery of gold thousands of miles away and, driven by that rumour, simply boarding a ship, leaving everything and everyone you knew behind in the homeland, travelling in hope more than expectation. Life here was tough for the small Chinese community, in particular the harsh NZ winters of which they knew nothing beforehand, toiling in the mines for long hours every day, facing both freezing temperatures and open hostility from the local population. Most had been peasant farmers back home, so despite the hardships many did indeed enhance their wealth and thrive, making enough money to either bring over their family or return home substantially better off when the gold supply eventually dwindled. Those that stayed integrated into society and contributed fully to making Arrowtown the thriving community which it was to become.
From Arrowtown it’s another long drive through magnificent scenery, pausing briefly at the far end of Lake Wakatipu where we rest awhile in the sunshine next to the gently lapping waters which are home to a variety of ducks, geese and waders. As the ducks grow to trust our presence and move closer to us, it’s fun to watch them play, entering the water en masse to ride the waves of a boat’s wake as it nears the shore – we can almost sense them chuckling with pleasure as they bob up and down.
On we go, entering eventually the spectacular region known as Fiordland, New Zealand’s largest national park, where our next destination Te Anau sits modestly at the side of the lake which bears its name. It’s from here that we take a day to explore the famed Milford Sound, one of the World’s most iconic natural locations, and we are certainly not disappointed by the day which unfolds.
Collected by minibus from Te Anau village, we head out on the roads towards the coast, stopping at several impressive viewpoints along the way, starting with the well named Mirror Lakes before pausing to admire a number of stunning canyons and mountain vistas. Eventually we drop down into Milford Sound where our tourist boat awaits. Milford Sound was incorrectly named by the first explorers, as it is in reality a fjord rather than a sound, but the misnomer has stuck and, with its worldwide fame, can’t be changed now, just like the Gulf Of Mexico can’t be changed, ahem.
The two-hour cruise is sublime, the scenery utterly breathtaking and, what’s more, we complete it on a day of sunshine in a place which “suffers” 200+ days of rain per year and receives a greater quantity of annual rainfall than the Amazon rainforest. It is, as all of the guidebooks and websites say, one of the World’s greatest natural sights, formidable in its size and dramatic in its design, massive cliffs plunging into the sea, waterfalls cascading over the gigantic sides. Everywhere we look there is something else, something special.
Refreshed by our awestruck time on the cruiser we hike for 90-odd minutes along the Milford Track, as far as the Giant Gate Falls, enjoying the wildlife as we go. When we dare to stand still in a cloud of sandflies for a few minutes we are rewarded by the stimulating experience of fantail birds circling our bodies, feeding off the little blighters who are in turn trying to feed off us. Having such pretty butterfly-like birds fluttering just inches from our bodies in circular movements is such a lovely moment, a moment with real tingle factor.
The following day, still talking about the joy which is Milford Sound, we drive out to another lake – Manapouri – where the serenity of calm waters and benign weather combine to lull us into a lakeshore slumber, only the sounds of nature and gently lapping waves to break the beautiful calm. Some places are just made for snoozing.
And then we’re off on the road again, heading to the location of my nephew’s wedding, taking on more of NZ’s wonderful and stimulating highways. It’s often said that true travellers don’t keep count – but I can’t help myself, I’m a numbers person and I’m a lists person, and we’ve just passed two significant landmarks. Firstly, en route to Arrowtown, we chalked up 2,000 miles in the hire car since we picked it up in Auckland. Secondly, as a way of recording our travels, we’ve kept count of every town, city and village outside of GB where we’ve stayed at least one night since we first got together in 2011 – and Te Anau is number 400. Four hundred places, a million memories or more.
Time to head to the wedding…
25 Comments
Eha Carr
I have no words to do justice to this story with its explanations and photos. Just to say I am SO glad you were on Milford Sound in fine weather. Two unexpected sets of photos were a wonderful addendum > those of the Chinese Village in Arrowtown and your beautiful pics of fungi a few of which could easily put an end to one’s time on this earth. Well, there is a late season cyclone bearing down on Auckland – methinks you on the South Island will be a tad too far south for damage . . . be well and enjoy the wedding celebrations 🙂 !
Phil & Michaela
That cyclone is very much in our thoughts, Eha. At this very moment we are at Christchurch airport hoping our flight to Auckland today isn’t cancelled…we’re due to fly in 90 minutes. As for tomorrow’s onward flight to Hong Kong, well, that’s under even more of a threat…an adventure probably awaits!
Eha Carr
OK – in Sydney 11 hours later, Sat morning 10am > have just looked up and the Auckland situation today and tomorrow is worse than I appreciated – naturally did not know you would be going thru’ there and now. Dare say you got to Auckland but the HK flight? BEST !
Phil & Michaela
Not yet…speaking live now (12:30 Saturday lunchtime) due to fly to Auckland shortly and still showing as “on time”. Auckland overnight tonight could be…errr…fun…
Eha Carr
As long as you are on the ground in Auckland you will be fine and tomorrow’s flight to HK should be OK – these storms downgrade very fast overland. Am just surprised if they let you into Auckland now!
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Your photos of Milford Sound are beautiful and how fantastic that the weather was good. Congratulations on your 400! I hope you enjoyed the wedding. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
Milford Sound is every bit as spectacular as everybody says!
Toonsarah
Each of your NZ posts seems more wonderful than the last! Arrowtown sounds fascinating, with a Chinese history that parallels many places in the US West coast area I guess. But Milford Sound steals the show here, it looks just incredible!
Phil & Michaela
Absolutely….it definitely doesn’t disappoint even with all its well publicised beauty!
Monkey's Tale
You had such amazing weather! And there’s no better place to have those blue skies than Milford Sound. Arrowtown also looks charming, and remarkably well kept. Have fun at the wedding. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
The buildings at Arrowtown had fallen into disrepair but were rebuilt by historians using the original stones which were still strewn around the area and by using old photographs as a guide. Wedding is done, next stop cyclone! (We are a bit behind with our posts)
Monkey's Tale
I’m months behind so I can’t say anything. 😊
Annie Berger
Beautiful pictures. Glad you had such great weather. That always makes things seem “brighter”.
Steve
Phil & Michaela
Especially in such a visually stunning location Steve
Forestwood
They say Milford is just like Norway and I can see similarities. Hard to believe I have seen more of Norway’s fjord and never seen Milford sounds.
Btw, how are the petrol prices over that way atm? Skyrocketing I assume?
Phil & Michaela
It really is as spectacular as they say, a fabulous thing to see. Petrol…well, our first fill up was 3.05 per litre, today’s was 3.55. Yep, a pretty big percentage increase.
Forestwood
Surprisingly similar to Aussie prices, then, but that is diesel! Umleaded Petrol is about a $2.15 per litre.
Heyjude
Stunning photos. You have had a marvellous NZ journey and I am so glad you decided to post about it.
Phil & Michaela
An amazing country full of wonderful destinations
The Flask Half Full
Arrowtown does kind of have an American Old West feel to it. Milford Sound looks positively magical. If I didn’t know better, I would swear you were in Norway. Love those waterfalls. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
A lot of folk compare the kiwi Sounds to Norway, they certainly are spectacular!
WanderingCanadians
Beautiful captures from your cruise of Milford Sound. Lucky that you had fabulous weather to enjoy the scenery.
Phil & Michaela
It was indeed!
grandmisadventures
stunning pictures of where water, mountain, and sky meet!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Meg, Milford Sound is as special as everyone says it is!