NZ Road Trip: South To Kaikoura
We are seriously beginning to think that there isn’t a single drive in this country which is anything less than spectacular. From Motueka on the edge of Abel Tasman we retrace our steps though Nelson city and Marlborough wine country then, turning south past Blenheim we are suddenly confronted by terrain completely different from all previous scenery: large barren hills devoid of greenery, the first treeless tracts of land so far. Bone dry straw coloured landscape.
Slowly the green returns, as do the lines of vines, until we rise over the top of the next hill and there stretched out before us is the incredible turquoise ocean which will accompany us all the way to Kaikoura. It’s impossible to not keep stopping just to soak in the breathtaking views: the alluring sea separated from black volcanic sands by a line of pure white surf, and, the other way, the towering peaks of the Kaikoura mountain range.
Eager to see more we drop the backpacks at the motel and head straight back out, up to the Kaikoura Lookout where the coastal views across two sweeping bays, one in each direction, and inland to the giant massif, simply leave us speechless. This is beyond special. Later, while sharing a beer with a couple we meet in The Whaler, the lady comes up with a good phrase to describe NZ, saying:
“I made a mistake with packing my bags. I didn’t put enough wows in my case and ran out after the first week”. Nicely put.
You know, Kaikoura is situated in such picturesque, gentle countryside that it would be a splendid little town even if there was nothing else – yet on one side there is the fabulous rolling coastline and on the other the spectacular mountains of the Kaikoura range. When sumptuous views were handed out, Kaikoura must have had first refusal on everything. There’s even still a hint of snow on the highest peaks.
We do like the fact too that we keep stumbling across humour in this country. Back in Rotorua where two traffic lanes became one on the approach to town, the sign read “merge like a zipper” and sported a big drawing of a zip fastener. Here in Kaikoura which has a huge reputation for quality whale watching, the route down to the train line is called Whaleway Station Road.
Before we indulge in the essential whale watching trip we take a rewarding hike along the top of the cliffs, marvelling all the way at the incredible views along the rocky shore and watching large numbers of fur seals playing in the shallow water and basking on those rocks. Mums and pups seem to be having fun for the sake of having fun, splashing and rolling and squealing with what sounds like delight. Seal squeals. We learnt in Kaiteriteri that female fur seals conceive every single year, and the gestation period is 50 weeks, meaning that apart from a two-week annual vacation they are permanently pregnant. Bit harsh, huh.
As we board the boat for whale watching, we are given in depth instructions regarding seasickness – apparently today’s rating is “rough” and chances of sickness are high, but, as it turns out, the wonderful episode of nature’s show we are about to see would take anyone’s mind off something as trivial as a dicky tummy.
Only a relatively short distance from shore we encounter a humpback whale being trailed by a school of dolphins; a further three miles or so out we are lucky enough to get a long, lingering look at a huge sperm whale, concluding with the classic deep dive and a swish of its giant tail. Fantastic. We do tend to get lucky with things like this. In the air above the water we see two species of albatross, including a Northern Royal Albatross with its gigantic wingspan, a Hutton’s Shearwater and a Southern Giant Petrel, all noteworthy sightings.
On the return towards Kaikoura, one last magnificent display, put on by a large – and we mean LARGE – school of dolphins, somersaulting and backflipping out of the water as if putting on a show especially for the tour boat. It’s fabulous, it’s thrilling, and it’s undeniably amusing – these guys really do look like they’re doing it just for fun. It’s been a very rewarding trip out to sea, enhanced by the enthusiasm and delight of the Yorkshire lass who is our compere on the boat, she’s clearly as excited as we are with what we see today and delivers her knowledgeable commentary with an endearing childlike joy.
We’re sporting tanned faces now. With the famed hole in the ozone layer directly above this part of the world, there is a disparity between the official temperature and the strength of the rays, it’s around 21 degrees but the sun feels a lot stronger than that number would suggest.
Kaikoura is absolutely lovely and is yet another place on this trip where we could easily be persuaded to stay longer, but, as ever, there’s more to see.
29 Comments
Eha Carr
Oh! I don’t want to exaggerate as that would demean both your abilities and mine to pick out matters special BUT I have never seen whale or dolphin photos like these in my life – to be honest had not heard of Kaikoura either. As far as the beach drives are concerned – once you come to Oz methinks we may be able to ‘compete’ but . . . I am so glad this journey to the Antipodes, which largely came about because of a family gathering, is giving you such memorable experiences. Be well, stay well !
Phil & Michaela
It was a pretty successful trip, Eha – though we’ve been lucky with whale watching before, in California. Yep, good trip so far, to say the least.
Forestwood
There is that fabulous trainline that took me to Christchurch! When we stopped for a short time at Kaikoura, I thought it was a place that was unique, with the beach and ocean at its feet and a few miles inland snow on the mountains. Perfection! I didn’t get to see the seals though and would love to go back to that one day. The dolphins around here do deliberately put on a show for tourists so they must enjoy performing. Such magnificent creatures.
Phil & Michaela
Yes to all of that! Kaikoura is indeed a bit special. To be honest I would have liked to travel a bit by train (big rail fan) here but the only way to realistically fit everything into our time frame was to do the whole thing as an extended road trip. Been great so far!
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Wow! Gorgeous photos of that green-blue ocean and of the whales and dolphins, too. How wonderful that you were able to see that wonderful show. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
It was pretty spectacular!
Monkey's Tale
What a great stop, the whale watching tour sounds amazing, so much to see. I had never heard of a fur seal before but we saw them up close in Uruguay. Love the wow packing story. 😊 Maggie
Phil & Michaela
It was a successful whale watch trip for sure, though our best ever remains Monterey, California.
Jim Earlam
Looks like you had a good day for it, brought back great memories of my own whale watching at Kaikoura 😀
Phil & Michaela
Definitely a good day, lucky with the sightings – but what a wonderful setting Kaikoura enjoys…
Forestwood
The train trip is really very special, with waves lapping at the train tracks. You must do it one day.The only other line that could compare was the track to Hakodate al9ng the coastal peninsula in Hokkaido, Japan- it passed by an active Volcano!
Phil & Michaela
Wow!
Toonsarah
More amazing views but what caught my eye the most was the fantastic shots of the Sperm Whale tail and the leaping dolphins – perfectly captured Michaela 😮 We’re now pretty set on NZ for a trip next year so I’ll be noting the best places along your route to consider for our itinerary and may pick your brains over a beer some time too! How long are you spending in the country?
Phil & Michaela
Left home March 1st, leaving NZ April 11th, so six weeks which includes the 2-day journey to get here (allowing for time zones) and 4 days with family at the wedding. Yes would be very happy to meet up and talk you through a few things….transport and ferries to name but two….
Toonsarah
Great, let’s try to coordinate when you get back 😀
Heyjude
Well aren’t you the lucky ones? Great photos Michaela. And yes, NZ is the gift that keeps on giving. I would have loved to have done a similar road trip, but it just never happened so I am enjoying accompanying you two.
Phil & Michaela
Driving here is an absolutely pleasure Jude, fantastic scenery everywhere and good quality roads with very little traffic. Those dolphins were such show offs…but personally I was thrilled to see two types of albatross too, they are quite majestic in flight.
normareadtalktalknet
Wow wow wow 🤩
Phil & Michaela
Lucky with the wildlife huh
normareadtalktalknet
Fantastic 😮
The Flask Half Full
A dicky tummy? Now that’s a phrase I’ve never heard before. I kinda like it. Have always wanted to go whale watching. Maybe I’ll add this to my NZ list for our trip! Spectacular photos – what a great day you had!
Phil & Michaela
Forgive me my Anglicisms 😂. It was terrific, though our best ever whale watching trip was in Monterey CA…a bit closer to your home..
The Flask Half Full
We used to live in Monterey! Loved our time there, but you know what we never did? Whale watching!!
Phil & Michaela
We absolutely loved our time in Monterey, great city…but you sure missed out as the whale trip was really mind blowing
The Flask Half Full
It’s still one of our favorite places in the US! I’m glad you guys enjoyed it.
WanderingCanadians
The scenery in Kaikoura looks lovely. Sounds like it’s a good spot to also enjoy the wildlife. Great captures of the whales and dolphins.
Phil & Michaela
Beautiful place, great boat trip!
grandmisadventures
wow you captured some incredible pictures of the whales and dolphins!
Phil & Michaela
A very successful session, we feel!