Auckland NZ.
Irregular. That’s a fitting word for the view from the balcony of our 21st floor apartment. Irregular because it kind of plays games with the senses, looking across the rooftops to the sea, then after the sea, more land, and then after the land, more sea, then more land, then finally at last the sea once more. Such are the crenellated complications of the Auckland coastline with its multitude of islands, headlands and sweeping bays forming this strangely alternating view that no matter how many times we study it, we are still intrigued and amused. Irregular it is, indeed.
- What are you writing?
- Travel blog
- I thought you weren’t going to do it on this trip
- I’m not, I’m just typing out of habit
- Well we may as well post it then
- We can’t do that, while I’ve been absent from the blogosphere I haven’t commented, liked or even read a single post by anyone, not even my favourites. I didn’t even post about our week in California last month. Just starting to post again would simply be rude.
- Don’t be silly. Everyone’s entitled to take a break. Just get back in the swing and see how it goes. I mean, I have plenty of photos.
- Humph
Irregular behaviour. Just as irregular as the view from our 21st floor apartment balcony. Auckland, basking in warm sunshine, preening itself in readiness for the Boat Show which opens tomorrow, ferries cutting white wakes across the blue, cruise liners of various sizes swapping places under cover of darkness at the designated terminal. Auckland, with its wide streets and the tallest structure in the southern hemisphere, its line of seafront bars with local craft ales and delicious food, its tidy streets with not a hint of litter (note: barman says to us, of course there’s no bloody litter, we get a howling gale blowing through town for three hundred and fifty bloody days a year, that’s why there’s no bloody litter).
We’re here in Auckland after a mammoth journey, something like 25 hours in the air with only a 3-hour stopover in Hong Kong, two days in a row where breakfast is followed pretty much immediately by evening twilight. Most irregular.
It’s beautifully warm despite that wind the barman mentioned which whips off the sea like someone opening the fridge door, resulting in alternate moments of tanning skin and reaching for a sweatshirt. Before long we give up and take the cold bits on the chin. And on the arms. And legs. And just enjoy the sun, warm enough out of the wind to measurably darken our flesh in no time at all.
Ferry Building
Taking the ferry across to Devonport we climb Mount Victoria to the summit of what is a very small volcanic creation, well, small as volcanoes go, to soak in fabulous views back to the impressive Auckland city skyline in the midst of which that tallest structure stands rather proud. Glass monsters reflect sea, sky and each other, grand old port buildings and customs houses squat beneath it all, dwarfed by their younger neighbours. Devonport, by the way, is also lovely.
So is the relaxed-to-the-point-of-languid suburban town of Parnell to which we venture by train, then stroll its streets full of cafes, coffee houses, antique dealers and jewellers, reminded constantly of small town America rather than the “England of thirty years ago” which is how one regularly hears NZ described. Parnell is home to a beautiful church, built entirely out of the wood of the magnificent and incredible kauri tree – a fact which will make it unique, as felling kauri trees is now illegal here. Bizarrely, this entire church was moved – in one piece, pulled by trucks and rolled on logs – across the main road in 1982, to allow construction on its original site. Never mind God, this church itself moved in mysterious ways.
We do, perhaps inevitably, fire ourselves skywards in the high speed elevator to the 51st floor of that tallest structure, uninspiringly called The Sky Tower, and look down from above on this thoroughly lovable city. The elevator has a glass panel in the floor – have you ever watched yourself being plunged 51 floors with the lighting at the bottom approaching like a speeding UFO? No? It’s fun. Fun too are the views of Auckland from up here, both through the windows in the clouds and through the glazed sections of flooring beneath which there is nothing for an awful long way.
Every now and again a body dressed all in orange flies past the window, clothes flapping in the G-force wind, hurtling towards the ground way below at startling speed. No, not some poor soul ending it all. There is, you see, a rope mechanism enabling those who wish to do so to jump from the 54th floor of this 328-metre tall building all the way to the ground. Terrifying. Thrilling. I want to do it but we haven’t booked. And anyway Michaela says NO.
The sunshine is still being most kind as we head out of town to the rental car depot and collect the Hyundai Tucson which will be our companion for the next 37 days and will take us right through both of the islands of this far off land. Setting off on a 5-week road trip which will include a family wedding at Easter feels exciting and auspicious, like we’re setting off on an incredible adventure. Which of course we are.
Auckland has been fabulous, a lovely city in a terrific natural setting. A last word on Auckland… our very first encounter with a local, on our first day, in a bar at Viaduct Harbour, went as follows (if you can do it, then read out loud the relevant bits in an Antipodean accent, accompanied by a smile)….
“Hey guys, how you doin’? You guys here for the Boat Show?”
“No, we just arrived here today at the start of a 6-week tour through both islands”.
“Oh fantastic. And you’re a pair of f**king poms too”.
Most irregular.
19 Comments
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Nothing like telling it as it is! 😉 A comment like that might make me feel like they didn’t want me there. 😉
Good to see you and your wonderful writing. Thanks for this great tour of Auckland (and for posting it). I’m actually reading four blogs right now (yours is number five) about people who are (or have recently been) to NZ. It has been great reading all the different perspectives. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
Ah his comment was in good part, delivered with a smile and a handshake so we took it with the humour with which it was delivered.NZ must be popular right now then, we’re certainly looking forward to exploring…
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Oh yes, I realise that. That was an attempt at humour! 😊
Phil & Michaela
Well it made us laugh anyway 😂
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Hahaha. 😊 I’m not communicating well at all! I meant the first two lines of my response were meant to be humorous. Clearly I’m not. 😀
Phil & Michaela
😂😂🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Eha Carr
Lordie above, you ‘f-ing Poms’, you have given me a huge shock this Saturday morning – how on earth did you get to be ‘next door’ suddenly 🙂 ? And – for 37 days . . . don’t you dare stop writing > I cannot wait to see how you will relate to things! Am a little wary . . . after Peru and the Philippines et al aren’t ‘we’ (well I’m only across the Ditch!) going to be a wee bit ordinary 🙂 ? That said, am rather thrilled the ‘land of the long white cloud’ is going to receive your ‘treatment’ . . . actually, if Auckland felt comfortable further ‘down’ will bring some extraordinary physical beauty. Phil – you know your lovely lady will have the camera ready – please DO write in your inimitable style – I for one cannot wait 🙂 !
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Eha, yep, we’re anticipating the scenery will get more and more dramatic, but we’re already very impressed even after the first few days. It’s going to be an adventure…
Forestwood
I love the allerative phrase ‘crenellated complications.’ Despite being across the ditch, I skipped Auckland so it was interesting to read about it through your eyes.
The journey is long and irregular indeed hence I usually stop over for a few days along the way – Singapore, Japan, or even Milan. Given the airline situation of recent days, choices may not be so broad. Two things so far I have found similar between Auckland and Wellington, that cold wind, and the wooden church. There is one in Wellington too, but it stayed put!
It is a sad indictment about modern cities that you noticed the lack of litter, wind or no wind. It is something you notice about Japan too, and the wind is not to blame there.
It sounds like it’ll take some adjusting to the Kiwi speak – I suppose you’ve encountered ‘sex’ and ‘fush n chups’ hey bro?
Phil & Michaela
We have a few days scheduled in Hong Kong on the way back, so decided to head straight out here. So far everything is so clean, neat and tidy…I’m afraid we’re probably comparing it with home where standards have dropped terribly during my lifetime.
Forestwood
Dropping standards? That does sounds disappointing and makes me wonder why? Economic factors, mental health decline?
Phil & Michaela
Lack of education from parents. Lack of respect as a result of that. Third generation of people who don’t care. Stop me now before one of my pet rants gets me carried away ☹️
Forestwood
Lack of education? It is hard for me to rationalize that As a parent, educating one’s children either scholastically through opportunity or via a values -based cultural norm at home seem mandatory and financial capacity irrelevant for the latter. ….perhaps I should also stop now….?
Heyjude
You guys certainly get around. I hope you will continue to report from ‘the land of the long white cloud’, I only spent 10 days there and loved it.
Phil & Michaela
Been here less than a week and already in danger of falling in love with it. Two amazing destinations so far, Auckland and one other. Plenty more on the agenda..
Miriam
That sky lift looks thrilling. But, you’re not there for the boat show, lol. Still, I have no doubt you’re in for a wonderful Kiwi adventure.
You know what’s crazy, I’ve lived in Australia all my life and, as close as it is to our fair land, I still haven’t visited NZ. Maybe this year is the year!! In the meantime I’ll enjoy your posts I’m sure. Love your writing. Oh, and by the way, there’s nothing wrong with irregular! Enjoy your newest adventure.
Phil & Michaela
Irregular is me! Us! NZ wasn’t really at the top of the list yet, but accepting a wedding invitation seemed like a good excuse to come and explore.
Lookoom
There are certainly many photo opportunities in New Zealand, and it would be wonderful if a few words could accompany them.
Phil & Michaela
I’ll do my best 😃