Southwards To Treasure Beach Where The Pace Of Life Is……
If you picture yourself visiting the West Indies, what does that picture entail? Do you see yourself in an all-inclusive resort where everything is catered for and you are safe and comfortable? Or maybe on a cruise ship sampling the feel of different islands? Or do you imagine a tranquil hideaway where life is slowed down, where calm and peace rule, where you sip rum cocktails watching the sunset, where there’s hardly anyone on the beach, where you fall asleep to the sound of the waves and wake to the gentle sound of the surf and the smells of the village bakery? Our Jamaica tour continues….
For our last day in the Falmouth area we find ourselves heading again to Montego Bay, where to the dismay of the crowds in the Doctor’s Cave Beach bar, Brazil dramatically exit the World Cup on penalties. Jamaicans feel a strong affinity with Brazil. “Brazil play football the way Jamaicans live life, so we all love Brazil”, one guy explains. Yep, we get that. Well, apart from the fact that Brazil aren’t pulling on a spliff as they take the field.
The exotically named Montego Bay actually takes its name from Bahia Mancheca, so named by the Spanish, as the port here was a major point of export for animal products back then, and “mancheca” is Spanish for lard. Good job someone chose “Montego” because somehow “Pork Fat Bay” isn’t quite so exotic, is it.
And so we leave behind Falmouth, its fun excursions, the beaches of Montego Bay and our delightful hosts Michelle and Junior and head west and then south towards our next destination. By coincidence, we are again travelling on the day of an England match, so again it’s one eye on the clock as we head across the island. The drive across to the south is wonderful, the outcome of the football less so as England add yet another glorious failure to our long history of such. Oh Harry we feel your pain.
Leaving that behind we take our first wander around the little community of Treasure Beach, aptly named as it turns out, a delightfully quiet village tucked around a series of coves on Jamaica’s south coast. Houses, cottages and villas are comfortably spaced apart with many set in their own grounds, the bumpy narrow lanes wind around the properties where birds and butterflies go quietly about their business.
The change happens pretty quickly. We’re not here long before we can feel our pace dropping to match the Treasure Beach vibe, so very laid back even by Jamaica standards, a new level of “laid back” altogether. Everyone and everything moves slowly, from the ambling locals to the few American expats who’ve made this their home and sit chatting all day, wiling away another day in paradise without ever breaking their smile. Fishermen are unhurried, boatmen laze waiting for business, people take time to chat, men lay in hammocks strung between trees or sit on chairs in the shade. Even the mongoose eyes us up deliberately before disappearing into the undergrowth. This place is about as chilled as you could ever imagine.
Ganja smoke fills the air. “Soon come” is the answer to the question. Any question. Every question.
Each cove has a couple of low key beach bars, lush greenery cascades down the hills right to the waterfront. The Caribbean is calmer and clearer than at the north coast, more of an Aegean or Mediterranean blue, the sky more open, the horizon more clearly defined, the winds so much more gentle. These may not be the pure white sands of Montego Bay or Negril, but this is a beautiful tropical coastline, this time without the crowds. We have these beaches almost to ourselves. So, so chilled here.
Life moves slowly. It’s so relaxed here that people even speak more slowly. If we think we’ve seen life at a slow pace before, this is down several more notches on any scale. It doesn’t take long to be part of it. We fall asleep to the sound of the gentle surf washing on to the sand; we wake at first light to the same sound. No need to rush when so little changes.
Soon come. Soon come.
Our nearest town is Black River around 35 minutes drive away: a town which somehow has everything you need whilst still retaining something of the laid back vibe of Treasure Beach. It’s here that we take a river safari, inland from the river mouth and upstream through mangroves, water ferns and bullrushes, into some serious crocodile territory. Our boatman tells us there are an estimated 800 crocs living here, a few of which come and take a closer look at our boat as we glide through the dark waters which give the town its name.
Sundown is just after 5.30pm here in Treasure Beach, more often than not accompanied by blazes of orange sky. Darkness follows quickly and the sultry evenings are long as surf lines foam white against the blackness. Frenchman’s Bay bar, Jack Sprat’s and Jake’s are all great places to sip Red Stripe or cocktails, watch that sunset and eat fresh fish; the kingfish steaks are particularly good: probably the meatiest fish we’ve ever eaten. And as for Dark’n’Stormy, a mix of dark Jamaican rum and cloudy Jamaican ginger ale….well, it’s just one of life’s treats.
The reggae beats, never too loud, morph into something more soulful after dark, merging with the rolling waves, disappearing altogether somewhere around 9pm as eyelids close all around the village. Early nights breed early starts: the pre-breakfast Caribbean is already warm soon after sunrise.
Christmas inches closer, less than two weeks away now, but there isn’t much evidence here; a few coloured lights draped around a beach bar which for all we know are there all year, plus a handful of oversized baubles on a palm tree. Oh, and one odd looking inflatable Santa in an inflatable speedboat with an inflatable mackerel in his hand. Mercifully there are no reggae versions of Slade, Wizzard and George Michael doing the rounds.
We don’t expect Christmas would change the pace here. We don’t imagine anything would change the pace here.
“I want to live here”, I say to Michaela as I gaze out across the bay.
“Oh Phil you’ve said that in fifty other places too”.
I suppose I have. But…..maybe just for six months or so….
It is, though, nearly time to move on…not just from Treasure Beach, but on from Jamaica, to see what Panama has in store.
23 Comments
Monkey's Tale
I’m feeling relaxed just reading about this side of Jamaica! We loved Panama, it will likely seem very organized compared to Jamaica. At least it did to us. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
We shall see!
Mike and Kellye Hefner
As I sit surrounded by half-wrapped Christmas presents and an avalanche of Amazon boxes, I find myself wishing for a laid back beach! What a treat Treasure Beach must have been. Sometimes we need to dump the hustle, grab a beer, and just chill. I am a bit envious, though I don’t want to be anywhere near crocodiles! Happy, safe travels to Panama!
Phil & Michaela
It’s been a very chilled few days here Kellye
wetanddustyroads
Treasure Beach is a welcome and lovely sight after Annie’s home in the previous post! We are going to a similar place soon … not in scenery but with the same feel … soon come, soon come! Love your pictures!
Phil & Michaela
Enjoy!
grandmisadventures
Montego Bay definitely has a more romantic, inviting feel to it than Pork Fat Bay. But that would be a good way to keep the idyllic beach to themselves without the worry of any tourists coming to name it Pork Fat Bay. Treasure Beach is very perfectly named- you found all kinds of treasures there!
Lookoom
These beaches look very relaxing and I understand the slow pace of life there, but what more could they do, if they are already happy like this, why change. Panama also has its share of Caribbean atmosphere, in the Bocas del Toro area, but with more American tourists.
Gilda Baxter
Absolutely blissful, I can see why you are reluctant to leave this paradise.
The World Cup has been very disappointing, with both Brazil and England now out, I don’t know what time to support.
Merry Christmas to you both 😀
Phil & Michaela
Hi Gilda, merry Christmas to you guys too.
Heyjude
Sounds like you are both well chilled out now, rather than being well chilled as we all are here in the UK! Great sunset photos Michaela.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Jude…yes we’ve missed a rare Kent snowfall back home..
WanderingCanadians
Montego Bay looks gorgeous. That’s too funny about how it got its name. You’re right, I don’t think Pork Fat Bay would have the same appeal. I love all the coral along the shore of Treasure Beach. How fun to even see some crocodiles.
Toonsarah
I can just feel the laid-back vibe oozing out of the laptop as I read this! It looks like Paradise 🙂
leightontravels
A slice of paradise, guys, both Montego Bay and Treasure Beach. The “no people” thing is something we could truly have plugged into our veins. And we may do just that for our post-Georgian escapades. Glad to see you also got some adventure on that river safari. England… at least there was some dignity to this latest failure. Probably as good as it will ever get for us. By the way, I have often felt that as a player Richarlison would benefit from taking a long drag on a spliff and chilling the **** out.
Phil & Michaela
Ha yes. Jamaica has been terrific Leighton…. But not the easiest country we’ve visited
Laura
Oh my goodness- these photos are divine and took me on a virtual vacation. The sunset photos are particularly magical! There really is such an allure to ‘island time.’
Phil & Michaela
Hi Laura, thank you for your comment. Yes I don’t think we’ve ever been anywhere quite so chilled
Alison
I can’t imagine ever wanting to leave a place like that also. Christmas must seem far away in your mind. The pink of that sky is unbeatable. My husband says exactly the same thing wherever we go and will always check out the prices of houses too, I bring him back to Earth pretty quick. I’ll be interested in hearing about Panama.
Rochelle | Adventuresfromelle
You’ve fully captured the essence of Treasure Beach. One of my favourite places in Jamaica for the reasons you described. It’s too slow to live in, at least for me, but I try to visit often 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It is very relaxed indeed!
rkrontheroad
I feel more relaxed just reading this post – a wonderful discovery. It’s hard to imagine more laid back than Jamaica life!
Phil & Michaela
Yes it is!