Escaping Cyprusgrad: The Better Parts Of The East Coast
There’s a palpable air of relief in the car as we drive past the little harbour at Bogaz, knowing now that the horrors of Cyprusgrad are behind us, at least for a few hours. The land opens up to olive groves, fruit trees and even vineyards, then ploughed fields and vegetable crops, and at last there isn’t a high rise or a construction site to be seen.
Turning east into the start of the island’s guitar neck, we are, somewhat ominously, suddenly on a brand new roadway of pristine black tarmac. Ominous because, why build a new road to nowhere unless you have development plans? We decide not to dwell on that thought and instead just enjoy the change of scenery for what it is. Eventually the new roadway runs out and we are back on old roads, after a while coming to reach the small town of Dipkarpaz where in a pastiche of its history the mosque and the church sit just a few yards apart.
Now we’re on the narrowing guitar neck peninsula, the road deteriorating step by step, mile by mile, until eventually the game is one of avoiding the worst potholes rather than negotiating traffic. It’s a huge relief to be out here and away from the claustrophobia of intense new build, out where farming is still the income source and wildlife is still free. As the land narrows, the Med makes appearances on each side, blue glimpses to our left and then glorious glinting expanses to our right.
Small coves begin to peep up from the rocky coastline until eventually a hand painted wooden sign points down a tiny track: “Golden Beach”. Taking the track as far as we can without a 4×4, we walk the last quarter mile through mature sand dunes to reach a huge sweeping strand which absolutely lives up to the name on that wooden sign. There are probably less than ten people dotted along the big golden beach; the sun is warm with a gentle breeze, the crystal clear Med sparkles, bright white surf flings itself over the unseen sandy shelf. Throwing our bodies into the sea feels like liberation. We are ourselves again.
Back in the car after swims and dozes, we resume our journey along the peninsula, passing the unusual St Andrew’s Monastery, a pilgrimage site due to its healing waters where, despite its isolated location, a group of stallholders have religious keepsakes and good luck charms for sale by the bucket load, presumably clinging on to the hope that just a handful of pilgrims with spare cash turn up today. Michaela window shops but doesn’t buy.
Before the monastery and with the road deteriorating further, we come to the gateway and cattle grid which signals the boundary of the Karpaz National Park. A pale coloured fox, almost camouflaged against the sandy ground, beats a stealthy retreat as we wander out amongst the scrub, its daily routine disturbed by our interruption. Inquisitive donkeys come to see if we have any food for them, poking their long noses towards us and even through the car windows when we get back on the trail.
The wild donkey population of Karpaz, thought to be as high as 2000 in number, are direct descendants of the animals left behind by the Greek farmers displaced by the 1974 invasion and the creation of the Green Line. Judging by the way the donkeys surround the car, the 2023 gangs are well accustomed to sharing the picnics of visitors. When eventually the road becomes too rugged for our modest saloon car, we stand at the clifftop, gaze out across the beautiful blue, and breathe in the scent of wild thyme lacing the otherwise pure clean air. Too soon it’s time to head back.
Darkness falls as we consume delicious grilled fish right at the water’s edge a few miles short of Cyprusgrad, the soothing sound of the waves providing the best possible soundtrack for the moment. We’ve staved off our return to the high rise jungle until a point where we can go indoors, shut out the world, and sleep till morning.
Morning in Cyprusgrad is heralded not by the sounds of muezzins or cockerels but by a melange of cement mixers, tipper trucks and piledrivers. Sunrise is filtered through clouds of dust.
If we needed any further reminder that Cyprusgrad wasn’t a great choice of place to stay, our visit to Famagusta aka Gazimagusa provides it, its ancient sand coloured ruins and proud city walls giving an appealing city dimension which we haven’t really seen since Morocco. Cathedrals converted to mosques, a Venetian palace, dungeons, archways and city gates; churches of various religious denominations, hamams and monasteries, all at different stages of preservation and decay, and all tucked into the compact area encircled by the robust, powerful walls.
The Othello Castle, renamed such after Shakespeare placed the murder of Desdemona within its confines, looks over the working harbour from just behind the Sea Gate. Flocks of tourist groups, presumably off cruise ships, disgorge from coaches to take in the sights, and half of the city streets lack a proper surface, but Famagusta is alive and welcoming and is without doubt the greener grass of the other side compared to Cyprusgrad. Ah well, in a trip of this length we were never going to get everything right.
And so we move on to the very last place of a tour which has lasted well over three months since we set out on July 3rd, and take it from us there is absolutely nothing sad whatsoever about leaving Cyprusgrad behind. We never did get to meet our host here, and only during our stay as the dark truths of this place revealed themselves, did the significance of his name dawn on us. It’s Sergei.
Leaving the huge new urban sprawl behind we head off in the general direction of the rental car drop-off point at Ercan, first calling in at the ancient city of Salamis. One of several ancient Greek cities of that name, this Salamis was according to legend founded by a Greek warrior forced into effective exile for failing to succeed in battle.
Later incarnations saw occupation by the Romans, Byzantines and Christians, the site being a thriving and important port location which was at one time the capital of the island. Today the ruins are extensive and impressive, occupied these days not by a race of humans but by an impressively large and varied lizard and gecko population.
After a brief call at the small St Barnabas monastery, we say a last farewell to the very last rental car of the trip and head to our final destination, the divided capital city of Nicosia, so divided that the part we will occupy doesn’t even bear that name.
37 Comments
Monkey's Tale
I don’t remember/didn’t know in the first place that Othello took place in Cyprus. Or at least the murder did. The monastery also looks interesting. Safe travels home. Still planning Brazil for the winter?
Phil & Michaela
Yes we are. The flights are booked, our accommodation and seats for the Rio carnival are booked too, but that’s it….so we’re looking at you to remind us of the list of places we need to be considering. All advices gratefully received.
Monkey's Tale
Let me know how long you have. Would it just be Brazil, or Bolivia or Peru too?
Phil & Michaela
We’ve only booked one way flights so far, so not sure of time but probably 6 weeks or thereabouts in Brazil, but we’re in Rio first for about ten days because we’re there for the carnival season. From Brazil I think we’ll probably head to California to see my daughter and maybe tour another US state
Monkey's Tale
I’ll send my favourite spots. Take a drive up to Weatern Canada, it will likely be spring by then😊
CadyLuck Leedy
You are far braver than I am! Hopefully things will be better in Nicosia. We didn’t go there, so I am anxious to hear what you thought about it! Cady
Phil & Michaela
Well Cady, not sure if you read our earlier posts but we can’t cross the Green Line and have to stay on the Turkish side. We’ll be posting about it soon.
CadyLuck Leedy
I am not surprised, but what an adventure you must be having…..I thought I had caught up on your latest posts, but I will go back and look. Can you not cross the Line, due to what is going on in the Middle East, or because you are on your own? Cady
Phil & Michaela
I think you’ve probably found it now but it was because we came in via Ercan Airport and therefore the Cypriot Government consider us to be in the country illegally. While we were on the Turkish side they couldn’t touch us but if we’d crossed the line we’d have been arrested.
Andrew Petcher
That was a better day.
Does your time in Northern Cyprus count towards your 90 days?
Phil & Michaela
Well, a better few days. As it happens, none of Cyprus counts towards the 90 days, not even the Greek side.
Andrew Petcher
How interesting.
Mike and Kellye Hefner
You guys did very well to escape the Brutalist confines of “Cyprusgrad”. The beauty of the beach and sea must have been refreshing, but you really hit the jackpot with Famagusta and Salamis! Of course, we love ruins and history, and both of those cities paid off. I hope you have safe travels to and in Nicocia, and I look forward to your posts from there.
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Kellye x
michael Hadjimichael
All occupied by the illegal turkish invasion of 1974.
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
There is a long, long history of squabbling over Cyprus (including massive destruction) and now given the politics and Russian involvement, I can’t see much improvement. Glad you were able to visit beaches and historical sites.
I remember Nicosia very well and of course UNFICYP (peacekeeping force) is located at the old Nicosia airport (about 10 km outside the city). I didn’t think much of it at the time but it may have improved since that was years ago. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
Yes that’s the airport we’ve used – the “illegal entry” airport, now called Ercan/Lefkosa. It’s had big money spent on it as part of the investment in tourism.
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
The peacekeepers are posted at the old site (Nicosia International Airport – derelict since the invasion) not the new airport at Ercan (which is actually a repurposed Royal Air Force base from WW II). Ercan is technically a regional airport since international flights can’t land there. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
Ah got you!
Alison
At least some parts were not spoiled, Famagusta looks interesting and very photo worthy!
Amazing that you are still away and see that you are planning another trip soon.
Phil & Michaela
Flying home today….not looking forward to the cold
Lookoom
There are nevertheless some beautiful spots in northern Cyprus.
In Rio, I felt most at home in Ipanema, where the metro was very efficient for getting downtown when needed.
Toonsarah
I’m glad you found plenty to like away from Cyprusgrad! Famagusta looks quite appealing despite the tour groups 🙂 Safe travels home today and I’ll wave if I spot you at LHR 😆
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Sarah, enjoy your travels too 😄
Travels Through My Lens
Cute donkeys, amazing ruins, deserted beaches, I’m glad to hear you had a better day after seeing the monstrosity of construction sites. Your photos are beautiful and your posts are a treat to read.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you so much 😊
WanderingCanadians
Glad you were able to escape Fake City and enjoy the natural scenery. How fun to see some donkeys! The ruins at Famagusta and Salamis look impressive.
wetanddustyroads
Golden Beach is a lovely place and I love the donkey photos. There you go … something positive to take away from your visit to Cyprus.
Phil & Michaela
Yes indeed, it was wild and remote on the peninsula but we were left with a nagging doubt that the situation may change soon…
grandmisadventures
Oh now this looks like a great day- beautiful sea views, interesting monastery, and donkeys 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Those donkeys!
rkrontheroad
Ah, lovely beach find, and the many ruins are fascinating. And the donkeys!
Phil & Michaela
The beauty is undoubtedly there, but you do have to go looking for it!
Forestwood
I have never been to Cyprus but did want to visit. Loved the Donkeys and their inquisitive noses. But why are all the statues headless?
Phil & Michaela
Just deterioration over time I suspect
leightontravels
So glad that you got some better east coast memories to erase the awfulness of Cement World. There is some fine history here, gorgeous nature and views at Karpaz Peninsula and yes, the donkeys are thoroughly charming and handsome. Interesting backstory about their Greek beginnings.
Phil & Michaela
You have to work a bit to find the beauty but it’s undoubtedly there.