Black Bulls, Roman Ruins And A Missing Ear: From Aix To Arles
It was a waiter in Aix who first gave us the idea.
“If you love Aix”, he said as he put down our sparkling golden beers on the table, “then please go to my town, Arles. It is even more beautiful than Aix”. Well, it’s going to have to go some to achieve that, but maybe we should give it a go – why not? And so we hatch a new plan.
Counter intuitively, all the websites tell us it’s quicker to make the journey between the two towns by taking one train down to Marseille and another back up country to Arles, which feels a bit like going from Surrey to Sussex via London. It’s all going well until just after we board the train in Marseille, when loud alarms start to sound around the station and the word “evacuate” comes over loud and clear in several languages. Apparently there’s some kind of bomb scare in the complex and we spend the next hour or so with hundreds of others hanging around outside the locked doors of the station while gendarmes and pompiers sweep the area. Ah, c’est la vie.
As a result we’re about 90 minutes late arriving in Arles but the sun has lost none of its afternoon power as we wander off the main road and into the tiny street where our next bed awaits. Another apartment, another amazing location. It takes us just a few minutes to believe that the smiling waiter back in Aix may just be right.
Eager to get out and explore, we are inevitably drawn towards the Arena – more of that in a minute – where the sound of some sort of announcer is audible from several hundred yards away. Clearly something is going on in there. Who cares what it is, let’s hand over some euros and go see what the noise is about. Inside the splendid Arena – more of that in a minute – is a bullring, a lively, vociferous MC and a group of fit looking lads all dressed in white.
Now, before the “cruelty to animals” lobby shut this post down, there are significant differences between Provençal “bull racing” and Spanish bullfights – for a start, the men here carry absolutely no weapons and there is no intention to hurt the bull in any way. On the contrary in fact, this is all about the young men of Arles being quick and agile enough to race to the sides of the ring and vault the fences just before something terrible happens to their backside.
The black bulls of Provence are smaller, faster and quicker to respond than their Spanish counterparts, and it’s sometimes a close run thing between pursuer and pursued: the reaction of the crowd when one of the young men only just escapes a buffeting suggests that there is a certain schadenfreude in the entertainment here. These guys are as agile as gymnasts and as quick as sprinters; the bulls are equally animated and the whole thing is an enjoyable spectacle. In truth, the aim is for one of the guys to snatch a ribbon from the bull’s head and gleefully leap the fences, trophy in hand. Of course, the men win every time.
Once it’s over, the white clad boys, clearly shattered now, receive a ripple of applause. The three participant bulls, though, are paraded to a standing ovation which they – honestly! – seem to play up to.
Anyway, let’s get out and explore this town. Arles became a place of huge importance within the Holy Roman Empire as successive Emperors ordered the construction of more and more of the city as its standing grew. Having first been occupied by the Romans in 123BC, Arles was to become a significant city within twenty years. In the battle for supremacy between Julius Caesar and Pompey The Great, Arles backed the former whilst nearby Massalia (Marseille) supported Pompey. Backing the winner was to pay off as Arles was subsequently rewarded with sizeable investment whilst Massalia was by comparison left to rot.
The 21st century legacy is a small town with an astonishing number of well preserved Roman remains: a compact place which brings delights around every corner.
First there is the aforementioned Arena (told you we’d come back to it), reminiscent of the Colosseum in Rome and, more so, El Jem in Tunisia, both of which we have visited in the last year or so. Close by is a marvellously preserved amphitheatre, currently complete with stage and light rigging in readiness for music concerts, and atmospheric subterranean crypts where the dripping waters give a cave-like feel to the atmosphere.
The list goes on: large scale remains of Roman baths built at the request of Emperor Constantine I, the beautifully adorned St Trophime Church with its ancient cloisters, and an extensive and fascinating Roman necropolis, Alyscamps. Alyscamps was for a long time the most sought after burial ground for Europe’s wealthiest people, with bodies shipped from across the continent in order to be ensconced inside sarcophagi here. The site is mentioned in Dante’s Inferno, and it is even said that Jesus Christ himself attended the funeral of St Trophimus.
Drawn in a large part by the unique and beautiful light of Provence, artists have for centuries gravitated to this region and specifically to Arles, which lists Van Gogh, Picasso and Gaugin among its former citizens, to name just three. It was here in Arles, in fact, that Van Gogh cut off his ear as his mental state deteriorated, and after two spells inside an institution, his fate was finally sealed when inhabitants of the town drew up a petition to have this troublesome character “sectioned”. The downward spiral which ended in his death by suicide had begun. We haven’t come across any reference as to where the ear ended up.
On a more positive note, Van Gogh produced around 300 works in just over a year here – some of his most recognisable paintings feature scenes within the town. The famed “Cafe de la Nuit”, now predictably renamed Cafe Van Gogh, is instantly identifiable even without the reproductions of the piece which hang on its front wall. It was amongst the trees at Alyscamps that Van Gogh and Gauguin first painted together; Van Gogh found its atmosphere to have a peaceful and calming influence on his increasingly troubled mind.
The roles played by the town of Arles in the history of the Roman Empire, Catholicism, culture and philosophy are far too deep for us to detail here, Wikipedia is a much more thorough source of information, but it’s fair to say that it is very easy to lose oneself in history as you wander the short distances between these amazing sights. Such meandering is hugely enhanced by the fabulous streets between those UNESCO World Heritage sites, where tightly knit houses sport pastel coloured window shutters and drape colourful bougainvillea and other flowers into the narrow streets.
Little wonder that artists were drawn to Arles, every street within its centre looks like the work of a great painter – or looks like a street waiting to be reproduced on canvas – so much so that the streets somehow have a familiar look even if you’ve never been here before.
Even the food is a step up. With Provence’s worldwide reputation for delicious dishes, we were surprised to find the menus of Aix dominated by pizza and pasta, maybe the consequence of a young student population. Here in Arles the choices are much more in line with our high expectations. We are so very pleased that we took that waiter’s advice and made the detour to Arles, a gorgeous and fascinating little town.
37 Comments
Helen Devries
Arles for me over Aix any time….you feel you can touch the centuries through which it has lived.
Phil & Michaela
Both lovely…everywhere lovely so far…it’s been a great start, Ali ❤️
Phil & Michaela
Oops, I meant Helen! How very embarrassing!! I blame the wine…
Helen Devries
Vive le vin!
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
The kids went to Arles the same day we went to Cassis. They loved it. Looks like we need to book another trip.
Andrew Petcher
I visited Arles several years ago so thanks for taking me back.
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
It is indeed beautiful.
HeyJude
Both look great places. How are you coping with the heat down there?
Phil & Michaela
Absolutely loving it, Jude. And after the intense humidity of Asia, it isn’t even a struggle. We’re lapping up every drop of sunshine!
HeyJude
Good for you. I’m not in the least jealous 😭
Alison
Absolutely loving Arles, what wonderful architecture, old and new. Would be interesting to see inside that quirky apartment block. Seems like every street corner as something to look at.
Phil & Michaela
Incredible how many great sights are packed into such a small area, Ali
Alison
Will be hard to leave
Toonsarah
Ooh, this does look lovely, as well as packed with history! I used to have an Athena block print (remember them?!) of Van Gogh’s Night Cafe on the wall of my student hall bedroom so it would be fascinating to see the ‘real thing’ 🙂
Phil & Michaela
The whole town is full of delights, Sarah. Athena….as in, Athena the arty retailer? Used to be one of my clients!
Toonsarah
Yes, that Athena! Didn’t every student of that era have at least one of their prints on their wall?!
Phil & Michaela
Oh quite probably…though I was never a student so I have to trust your word!
Monkey's Tale
Arles sounds fantastic! Unfortunately I can’t open any pictures ☹ They do a similar bull running thing just outside of Calgary during the Stampede, but they are very large, angry bulls. I’ve never gone.
Phil & Michaela
I wonder why they won’t open..not aware of a problem…yet!
Monkey's Tale
It’s the internet here in Tajikistan. Most of the time we have to use a VPN, but no matter what I do I can’t open a lot of blogs on the internet, including Monkey’s Tale(!) but can often see things on Reader at least. Strange because we can open IG and FB. The joys of travel 😊
Born to Travel
Pleased you liked Arles. It’s our favourite place in Provence. Great base to fan out to lots of other towns, villages and the countryside. Last time we were there during the Rice Festival. The boys and the bulls were amazing. Enjoy, Mark
Phil & Michaela
It’s a terrific place, isn’t it. Loved it, but then we’ve loved everywhere so far ❤️
leightontravels
Arles easily seems the equal of Aix and your previous surrounding adventures. I had no idea bull racing was a thing in that region. Love the narrow streets, well the non trash infested one at least. The food looks magnificent.
Phil & Michaela
Ah well, the photo of the street with the trash was intentional. A good clash, we thought! I didn’t know there were bullrings in Provence either, Leighton. Was news to us!
WanderingCanadians
Sounds like an interesting start to your trip to Aries with the bomb scare! Glad you eventually made it there as this looks like a beautiful spot to explore with so much history. I love all the Roman ruins. And how fun to see a bull race. Looks like you ate well as the food looks delicious.
Mike and Kellye Hefner
You guys certainly know how to put the wow factor into your posts! Arles looks like a beautiful city, and I love the Roman influences there. The arena is spectacular, but so are St. Trophime and the ancient baths. As for the bull races, they sound like fun, and the food looks fabulous. Your photos show it all so beautifully. Can’t wait to see what you’re up to next!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you so much Kellye
grandmisadventures
I would say that Arles measures up fabulously to the waiter’s claim- Roman ruins, racing from bulls, and an artist legacy. I took an art history class years ago and my teacher said that Van Gogh along with some other artists of the time believed to be a good artist that the art must be part of him and so he would actually consume paint while he was painting…but the paint was lead based which may have been a cause of the mental deterioration.
Phil & Michaela
Yes I’ve heard the same detail about Van Gogh…weird!? But yes Arles is terrific, well worth a few days.
wetanddustyroads
I thought: If that first photo is of a back street of Arles, I can’t wait for the rest! And I was not disappointed! The Roman arena is lovely, the baths interesting, as well as Van Gogh’s interpretation … but the streets of Arles are the best! And then the food … ah well, let me drink my tea and go to bed and dream about that tasty looking dishes (and chase a bull or two)!
Phil & Michaela
😂😂
Lookoom
You’ve painted a lovely town. The light has a transparency that cannot be found in the north.
Phil & Michaela
Yes exactly, the light is sumptuous and it’s no surprise that so many artists wound up in the region.
Supraja Lakshmi N
Your article about your trip from Aix to Arles was very fascinating and enjoyable. You have taken me on a journey through the history and culture of Provence, France. I liked the photos and the descriptions of the places you visited, such as the Roman amphitheatre, the Van Gogh and the Streets of Arles. You made me laugh with your anecdotes and observations.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you so much for your lovely comments, so glad you enjoyed
Annie Berger
How fortunate you lucked on a waiter who suggested you travel to Arles and you were able to discover the city’s surreal beauty. Those sort of chance encounters help make traveling magical.
Phil & Michaela
Yes they do – and the joy of not planning too far ahead means we can make the most of those opportunities.