Walking Jodhpur And Meeting The Lentil Man
Jodhpur plays out its days in a decidedly lower key. Such things are relative of course – you probably wouldn’t describe Jodhpur as “low key” in many countries of the world – but compared to other Indian cities it is precisely that, especially among the narrow twisting streets of its old town. Under the watchful eye of the gigantic Mehrangarh fort looking down from the hills above, Jodhpur is probably the most tourist friendly Indian city we have seen so far. Throughout the old town any number of dark staircases lead up four or five storeys to rooftop restaurants affording fabulous views of the fort which is imposing during daylight and tastefully floodlit after dark.
Climbing down the handful of steps from The Arch Homestay on to the dusty street we find ourselves just a few strides from Jodhpur’s Step Well. Just as the Jaipur version was, this one is an interesting collection of symmetrical stairways and platforms, but there are significant differences between the two. Whereas Jaipur is behind railings with whistle-blowing security guards ensuring nobody transgresses, here in Jodhpur the Well is more than just accessible, it’s a popular meeting point for townsfolk.
At all times of day people sit on the steps and chat or share street food, youngsters snap each other for social media posts, others simply sit alone, contemplating life as they gaze across the dark waters in quasi meditation. Vibes of both tranquility and conviviality fill the surrounding square. Chatter merges with the music of traditional stringed instruments to bounce off the lofty walls, yet somehow solitude is also able to endure. People gravitate here whatever their needs it seems.
We turn back past our homestay down towards the clocktower, welcomed to Jodhpur by multiple smiling faces and outstretched hands, past art galleries, saree shops and chai stalls, then through the brick archway into Sardar Market. Nobody hawks to foreigners like us here, this is a market selling dustpans and plastic buckets to locals more than souvenirs to tourists. Jodhpur’s sturdy clocktower stands in the centre simultaneously heralding time and timelessness, ignoring the tuk-tuks and the barking dogs below just as it has done since ever.
“Would you like to meet The Lentil Man?”, says a voice from behind, “I can take you there. Come. He is famous”.
The Lentil Man, real name Vijay Prajadat, is THE leading exponent of the local craft of miniature art. He definitely IS famous, too. “You can find me on Google”, he says, “and I was on the BBC, in series five of Race Across The World”. He is. You can. He was. Desperate to avoid the loss of this rather wonderful localised craft, Vijay now runs a school of 180 students as well as producing prodigious amounts of artwork himself.
Lentil Man and miniature paintings
Mostly telling historical stories of Jodhpur or depicting the wildlife of Rajasthan, the paintings which adorn his shop/studio are incredibly delicate, tiny brush strokes creating intricate works in minute detail. The traditional paint brushes used in this art form are made from the hair of squirrels’ tails, in fact the tiniest of these brushes feature just a single such hair, so fine is the required detail.
The “Lentil Man” nickname comes from Vijay’s ability to create a tiny painting on a single lentil bean. Satisfyingly, we are given a demonstration as Vijay produces a tiny elephant painting coupled with Michaela’s name on one side of the minuscule lentil. We accept our gift. And, of course, we buy a painting. We have to really.
Back through the twisting streets we wander, aiming for the start of the steep path which will take us up to the fort way above the town, stepping over the piles of dog dirt and splats of cow shit, avoiding the swerving tuk-tuks and averting our eyes from the man pissing on a pile of garbage without even turning to shield his penis from passers by.
The climb is definitely steep, the paving shiny and slippery through centuries of footfall, though nowadays most people opt for taxis or tuk-tuks to make the ascent and we have much of the climb to ourselves, finally arriving at the grand entrance twenty minutes later under the beating sun. There is no doubt that this journey through India is getting warmer day by day as December unfolds.
With its mighty imposing presence looming moodily over the city from above, the Mehrangarh Fort is just as impressive once inside its vast spaces. Ostentatious, unambiguous, an unashamed show of wealth and power, originally built in the 15th century, this giant complex was significantly enhanced 200 years later by successors of its creator. One of the seven gates to the palace commemorates victory for the Rajput over the Mughals – given the immense wealth of both, that would have been a mother of all battles.
Descending from the fort we turn a different corner into the back alleys of the foothill, through areas which, despite being the domain of the less well off, shall we say, still sport the blue painted walls which give Jodhpur its “Blue City” moniker. Originally, the pale blue exteriors were so decorated in order to reflect the sun’s heat and keep the properties cool, much in the way that houses of the Mediterranean are painted white.
Slowly but surely murals appear amongst the blue houses, bringing spectacular artwork to downtrodden neighbourhoods. Known locally as the Blue Corridor, the area provides a noticeable splash of colour from afar and reveals pleasingly artful creations within. This route, though, is not for the faint hearted, the poverty of its inhabitants painfully plain.
Turning back towards town, we find ourselves in something markedly different, a shopping street packed with beautiful sarees, elegant suits, ornate bouquets and boxes of fireworks. “In Rajasthan December is wedding season”, the guy at the cafe explained, “stay here another week and you will see many”. Wedding street or not, the atmosphere is electric and we feel energised by our undeniably, unmissably authentic surroundings. This. Is. Real.
After walking miles around this fascinating and utterly absorbing city, we complete our time in Jodhpur with a tuk-tuk ride on our last day, out first to Jaswant Thada, labelled a “cenotaph” but actually more what we would call a mausoleum, final resting place of the great and the good of the Rajput dynasty of Rajasthan, then further out to Mandore Gardens, burial grounds of the same fraternity before Jaswant Thada was adopted and the capital moved to Jodhpur.
The temples at Mandore demonstrate a different style of architecture, generally conical rather than grandiose, in a way reminiscent of the temples of South East Asia. Touch of the Angkor Wats here, we say to ourselves. It’s been striking at the temples, forts and palaces we have seen this week, to note the vast areas occupied by these places – they cover considerable ground – as much a statement of the wealth and power of the Mughal, Marwar and Rajput empires as it is a representation of the sheer size of India.
Jodhpur is almost done. One last meal – roughly we reckon curry number three thousand by now – at our favourite restaurant, Open House, with its terrific views down into the Step Well one way and up to Mehrangarh Fort the other, where the food and the marsala tea are both excellent and the boss man Kuku (pronounced “cuckoo” – no really) is friendly and welcoming.
“The British are our favourite guests, ever since we opened”, says the guy back at the homestay, “you are always polite and never rude”. Nice to hear, though how Michaela’s patience doesn’t wear thin with the 50-odd times a day she has to pose arm in arm for photographs with locals is remarkable, and, I suppose, proof that he is right, in her case at least.
One last note. On the way back down the steep path from the fort, again with the way mostly to ourselves as others take the car, an elderly smartly dressed couple are trudging up the hill in the heat towards the fort. Just as we are about to pass them, the man hoists up his clothing and turns sideways to urinate against the wall. His wife stands dutifully by his side as he pisses loudly against the stonework. Honestly, you just see anything and everything in India.
28 Comments
restlessjo
I was getting a warm feeling about Jodhpur, until I got to that last sentence, Phil. The street art is wonderful and I simply goggled at that lentil bean! How does anyone do that? Amazing! xx
Phil & Michaela
And the earlier paragraph too..but it’s how India is, Jo… no matter how amazing a place is, the “other” side is always present, and no matter how grim it can seem, the glory’s always there too. But oh yes, the miniature art is unbelievably clever, I just don’t know how they do it…!
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
A gorgeous set of photos and a very interesting and informative post, Phil. Jodhpur is certainly an amazing and diverse city. And yes, you get to see it all and probably more than you would ever want. That event reminds me of a time that I saw a guy peeing over the side of a crowded boat that was crossing the Bosporus. The lentil guy is fascinating! I would never ever have the patience for something like that!
Phil & Michaela
It’s a great city, Lynette, but yep, I think there’s a need to convey the mix of good and not so good which is just part of being in India. The intricate detail of the miniature painting is incredible, definitely needs much patience!
Eha Carr
You paint quite a picture of Jodhpur, in some ways architecturally and historically different in its own way – in some ways having the same busy, untidy, colourful face on its city streets as seen elsewhere in India. Everything in the world seems to be thrown together hodge-podge as you walk along . . . what has always surprised and worried me most has been the hugely untidy proliferation of electricity cables bunched together any which way – how many accidents occur, how many blocks of buildings burn down in a mess like this . . . Ha! When I think of our building codes . . . better not do that and compare . . . 🙂 !
Phil & Michaela
We too have always been amused by the cable thing…I think Colombo Sri Lanka was probably the worst. Yep, I’m trying to convey just what India is like, there’s no escaping its rough edges but the glory and the splendour is always there too, as is the colour and tge vibrancy. It’s unique, really.
Monkey's Tale
It’s the public urination that really got to me in the end. But your post reminds me that we also saw two wedding parties on the streets of Jodhpur, but I think we were there in March or April. I’ve never heard of the Lentil Man, but his work looks impressive. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Oh the clashes and contradictions which make India what it is, huh. As for the miniature art…well wow, watching him create that tiny painting was pretty amazing.
Andrew Petcher
On my to do list in 2027.
Phil & Michaela
Make a note to watch the miniature painting artists in action. You will of course be pestered to buy, but if you can put up with that then it’s fascinating to watch them work in such intricate detail.
Toonsarah
You’re so right about seeing anything and everything in India, and you capture that atmosphere so well here! Mixed memories for me of the Mehrangarh Fort – I loved the architecture and we were fortunate to find the RIFF music festival in full swing, with drummers, dancers and more in different corners of the fort. But we had a pushy guide with us who embarrassed us by shoving locals out of the way to get us priority in viewing display cases of weapons which held little interest for me. I don’t recall the Lentil Man in Race Across the World, but his work is amazing – all that detail on a bean!
Phil & Michaela
He would be our worst nightmare of a guide! I think it was the two brothers in the last series who visited the Lentil Man…enjoyed Jodhpur, it’s really stimulating now as we’re starting to see sides of India we haven’t witnessed before. The changes are so interesting.
Toonsarah
I remember the brothers well and we watched every episode so I must have seen him!
Phil & Michaela
They are Derby fans. Jus’ sayin’…..
Toonsarah
😂😂
Helen Devries
Public urination…dare one wonder whether this French custom dates from experience of their colony in Pondicherry…….
Phil & Michaela
Now there’s a thought. Not one however which I wish to dwell on for too long.
WanderingCanadians
The Lentil Man must have wonderful eyesight in addition to a steady hand. But it seems good eyesight also has its drawbacks given how common it is for people to just piss all over the streets!
Phil & Michaela
Yes, him and his students are limited to one hour painting then one hour’s rest because of the strain on the eyes. Fascinating to watch him at work.
Annie Berger
I knew nothing of Jodhpur before your post, Phil. You described a vibrant, delightful, colorful city, that sounds as exciting as all gets out. How I’d love to meet the Lentil Man and see the blue corridor!
Phil & Michaela
We’re seeing some great places in this run, Annie. Watching the miniature artist at work was amazing, such an incredibly steady hand!
grandmisadventures
Incredible trip around the city with you- seems like a swirl or colors, sights, smells, and characters. How amazing to meet the THE Lentil Man. I did go and look him up on Google, that is an incredible artistic skill to be sure!
Phil & Michaela
Amazing, isn’t it, Meg…such a remarkable skill. Can’t imagine having the eyesight, the steady hand…or indeed the patience!
The Flask Half Full
I think there’s a pretty good chance I would starve to death in India. Absolutely NONE of that street food looks good. Or sanitary. But painting on a lentil is impressive. I don’t have the patience or the eyesight for that activity. And ugh. Sure, just pee wherever. The world is your toilet. So, so gross.
That said, I love the shots you got in downtown Jodhpur – the colors are incredible. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
On a previous visit to Delhi, I wrote that part of being in an Indian city is that you have to accept that every wall is a urinal, every patch of ground something worse. But once you’ve coped with the shifting of the comfort zone, India is a wonderfully interesting and exciting country. And very varied, being so vast!
The Flask Half Full
Every wall is a urinal and every patch of ground something worse doesn’t sound like something I can make peace with. I’ll visit through you and Michaela! 😎
Alison
The fort is truly impressive inside and out. I love all the murals and Michaela’s keepsake, hopefully she can keep it somewhere safe. Lovely image of your last paragraph!
Phil & Michaela
So fascinating watching those tiny paintings created. Jodhpur certainly had its highlights…and a couple of not so!