To The Lake City Of Udaipur
Suddenly I feel like I’m on television, on a travel documentary or similar, at that point when the presenter turns either to the camera or to their co-presenter and makes a poignant comment indicating just how special is the moment, and then looks wistfully out at the scene before them. It really is like that, just as awe inspiring, just as exotic.
We’ve just arrived in Udaipur, late afternoon, and we’re standing on the balcony of our haveli gazing at the scene before us: classic India, maybe even classic Asia. The lake – Lake Pichola – is flat calm, the amazing City Palace sits away to our left, temples and mountains are shrouded in haze in the distance. Indian music – strings, drums, bells – drifts across the lake, a handful of gently chanting voices lift it to another level. This is a special moment. Quintessential India. Cue end of programme credits.
Actually, as it happens, Udaipur in the end doesn’t turn out to be quite as serene as it initially appears, but at this point, our first impression, we don’t know that, and it feels nothing short of idyllic.
On our way here, by road from Jodhpur, we had called in at another rather mystical place, the Jain temple of Ranakpur. Far away from cities and pollution, Ranakpur (aka Chaturmukha Dharana Vihara) enjoys a peaceful setting in beautiful surroundings, lush mountain scenery next to the Maghai River – it feels tranquil and atmospheric even before we pass through its auspicious gateway. The whole remarkable temple is constructed from white marble, made in the image of a vision seen by local businessman Seth Dhanna when reaching a state of nirvana in the 15th century.
Featuring a remarkable 1,444 marble pillars, no two of which are identical in design, the sheer amazing quantity and detail of the thousands of carvings and sculptures of this temple sends the mind reeling almost as much as the heady odours of incense and jasmine which permeate its every corner. There is a true feeling of divinity here, a true sense of deep faith.
At places such as this we like to try and learn some of the beliefs of the faithful devotees – having no religious affinity ourselves we can be open minded as we listen and learn. However, as I in particular often find at such times, the mantras of Jainism, like other religions, turn out to conceal contradictions which border on hypocrisy, one of which actually really makes me feel quite angry in a temple which is designed to induce serenity. I suppose I should temper that by saying I am the least spiritual person you will ever meet – but, honestly, I could never be indoctrinated into something so blatantly and overtly hypocritical.
Let’s get back to Udaipur before I write something I shouldn’t. Udaipur is a beautiful place, the calm waters of the lake bringing a stillness to the air which quickly turns to a cool freshness after sunset. Already there is evidence of a different India, one we haven’t previously seen – dress codes are more western and less traditional, particularly among young women, food presentation is more stylish, India’s ubiquitous underbelly is far less evident.
Udaipur is filled with beautiful young people, not “beautiful people” in the hippy sense, but genuinely beautiful people, impossibly handsome young men arm in arm with girls with the looks of a film star or a princess. Just so many beautiful faces. December is, we discover, one of the most popular months for Indians to take vacations, and Udaipur is, understandably given its appeal, a destination city. Consequently, what we are seeing here is that element of society which can afford a vacation, enjoying precisely that.
The city’s huge, rambling palace, the second largest in India apparently, hogs a sizeable section of the lake shore facing westwards across the water. Inside its vast expanses are absorbing museums, rooms reassembled as they once would have been, and sumptuous lounges for dining and socialising. Peacocks and elephants feature heavily in the extensive artwork in various forms. There are two former royal palaces out on islands in the lake too, accessible by boat from town and little havens of peace where it’s possible to stay the night if parting with an arm and a leg in order to be isolated from the town is your bag. It’s not ours.
Sundown in this lovely lakeside city brings more than just cool air, it brings reliably gorgeous sunsets on a nightly basis, honey and peach shades passing through burning orange and stark yellow in turn. After dark the slightly less serene elements of Udaipur’s character come to the fore. Reflecting its status as a holiday destination, this city has its fair share of night clubs: garishly coloured neon signs punctuate the dark night and the throb-throb of club music supplants India’s more usual gentle musical strains.
During our first night – a night in which I am ambushed by an assault from the feared Delhi belly – the relentless beats go on until almost 5am, though thankfully this proves to be a one off and subsequent nights are quieter after midnight.
Several years ago at the start of our first visit to India, somebody said to us that it’s ridiculous to think of India as one country, so vast is its landmass and so disparate are its individual states. Culture, religion, terrain, cuisine, climate, language, costumes….they, and more, all change radically as you move through this varied and diverse country. On that first visit back in 2017, we saw a lot of what we still think is India’s …. errr ….. more rustic side.
Now, we’re starting to see something very different: an elegance and a shine which we didn’t see in Old Delhi or the Sunderbans or the poorer districts of Kolkata. Of course, this is still India, the underbelly is still here, but things are definitely beginning to change.
The rest of this journey will take us through Mumbai, down through Goa and across Kerala. It’s distinctly possible that those changes will become yet more pertinent. We shall see.
35 Comments
restlessjo
Hmm, I’m not sure whether to be impressed or not, aside from the blissful sunsets. The architecture is fabulous in every sense of the word, but I don’t know that India is the place to be if you’re an ordinary ‘jo’. Interesting to observe but I’d struggle to adapt to life there. And there are only so many curries I can eat. But I’m enjoying your progress xx
Phil & Michaela
Well, as we’ve said many times Jo, India would definitely not be for everyone, it takes a bit of getting used to! But if you can break the barriers it’s so rich in colour and character.
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
A very interesting post and of course your photos are wonderful. I can probably join you in your lack of spirituality, Phil. Those sunsets are gorgeous, providing such a counterpoint to the underbelly, as you call it. India is a country of contradiction and contrast, for sure.
Phil & Michaela
It sure is! Though things are changing as we move on, and becoming less of a challenge. We’ll see how that unfolds….
Eha Carr
All I can say at the moment is a childish ‘oh’ with the hugest ‘thank you’ for sharing! Twice in my lifetime I have been ‘booked in’ to the Lake Palace in Udaipur to spend a week and get to know the place and the area. It did not happen and now I am so enjoying your utterly fabulous photography to pretend I too am there. Your sunset photos are unreal and Michaela, you don’t take a bad pic yourself 🙂 ! Cannot wait for you to get to Kerala and Goa > totally my kind of food and the canals and spice fields another failed plan I shall enjoy thru’ your eyes. Don’t you dare take a Christmas holiday from posts 🙂 🙂 🙂 ! A very, very happy time to both of you during the week to come . . . methinks I shall repost your journey and add my Yule wishes thereto 🙂 !
Phil & Michaela
And the very best wishes of the season to you too, Eha – enjoy! Udaipur was really quite breathtaking, at least in parts. The lake brings such calm.
Steven Mark Berger
Wonderful, wonderful photos. Thanks again for a great pictorial tour.
Steve
Phil & Michaela
Photogenic city, that’s for sure!
Heyjude
Sensational skies.
Phil & Michaela
Aren’t they just!…..and reflected on the lake too…
Miriam
I haven’t been to India at all, but have often heard how colourful and culturally rich it is. Thanks for taking me on this virtual tour, through the fairy tale serene lake vistas, to the awe of the temples and palaces and the rustic street scenes. A colourful land indeed. Hope you experience no more Delhi belly issues. Keep happy and keep enjoying!!
Monkey's Tale
Udaipur was my favourite city in Rajasthan, for many of the reasons you mentioned. We didn’t go to the Jain temple you did, but we went to others. You have to admit, whether you agree with their contradictory beliefs or not, they do make elaborate temples. Hope you’re feeling better. Maggie
Toonsarah
Somehow Udaipur didn’t quite work its magic on me although I could see its charms. I certainly have to admit though that it is beautiful, in parts at least, and the City Palace awe-inspiring.
I did really like Ranakpur and found it very peaceful. I’d read up quite a bit on Jainism even before our visit there as we’d been to a couple of smaller Jain temples in Jailsalmer. I’m curious about the contradiction that annoyed you so much as it must be something that I either didn’t come across or which failed to strike me in the same light. If not for this blog, you must tell me when we next get together.
Phil & Michaela
Well the holiday vibe at Udaipur wasn’t anticipated but it’s a beautiful setting. I agree about the peace and tranquility of Ranakpur, and its inspired conception. Amazing piece of architecture to study bit by bit. Yes I’ll tell you what got to me, one day….or by WhatsApp if I can think of how to shorten it sufficiently!
Toonsarah
Oh yes, please do!
Helen Devries
As you have visited before and have a point of comparison, I shall be interested to see if you note more signs of social change.
Phil & Michaela
Well not to these parts, but yes been to India before. We arrived in Goa yesterday. Tropical holiday vibe with little or nothing in common with India’s cities…
The Flask Half Full
Your post almost makes me reconsider my “do not travel” position on India. Almost. It’s just not on my list. I’ve seen way too many pictures of the – how did you put it – rustic side. All I can see is a raging case of curry flavored hepatitis. And I wouldn’t go anywhere NEAR a river in India. There are definitely things in those waters that are trying to kill you.
That all said. Your photographs are lovely, as usual. That Taj Lake Palace looks like it’s about to become the Submerged Taj Lake Palace. The Ranakpur Temple is spectacular and imposing. I’m right there with you on Team NOT AT ALL Religious (or spiritual). But I always appreciate the architecture of these places. It’s just impressive as hell.
My best to you and Michaela for a healthy holiday season. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
Yep, if you read some of the posts from before we reached here (which I think you have) you’ll definitely see the bits which would put you off visiting. India is definitely not for everyone…
The Flask Half Full
I’m catching up on my reading this week . . . but yeah, ultimately, India isn’t for me.
Phil & Michaela
It’s so worth it if you can break through the comfort zone barrier though
Lookoom
Beautiful light, both on the monuments and on street life.
Phil & Michaela
It was, too…at all times of day…
Phil & Michaela
It was too…at all times of day…
WanderingCanadians
Stunning sunset shots. It’s neat how your perceptions can change about a place over time. I’ll be interested to see if the charm and shine wears off as you continue your journey through India.
Phil & Michaela
Lovely city in a great setting, just a bit surprised by the holiday vibe
thesimlux
Great photos!!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you!!
Annie Berger
Phil, Steven and I are familiar with the Jain religion, but certainly not all its tenets, as you discovered when you explored the magnificent Ranakpur Temple. Don’t mean to quibble with you, but I’d say that each faith likely has contradictions that its followers struggle with. Accepting that premise doesn’t mean, in my mind at least, a wholescale discounting of the faith.
Phil & Michaela
It does for me, kind of. It’s easy to view different faiths from a detached (logical?) point of view when you don’t have a faith yourself, I think, Annie. I had an upbringing where faith or religion played absolutely no part at all – not dismissed or disapproved of, just simply never discussed in any way – so travel has brought the opportunity to listen and learn without prejudice. I would never criticise anyone for their own choices in the matter, of course I wouldn’t, but I struggle with hypocrisy in any walk of life. I dislike our modern day politicians for precisely the same reason! 😁
Saurabh
excellent pictures !!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you!
grandmisadventures
Beautiful tour around the city with you. I just love the interesting details and designs in the buildings!
Phil & Michaela
It was a cool city for sure!
Travelbloggingacademy
Very creative travel blog post, and cinematic photography! Keep up with motivating others to explore. We start soon the Master of Travel Journalism so you are welcome to join us! Just reach out on pm. 🙂