To The Beach: Arrival In The Wrong Part Of Goa
Well. It just goes to show, even grounded and experienced travellers like us can mess up, although we’re mystified as to how we of all people made this error.
In trying to work out the best places to stay in Goa to get a decent coastal fix but steer clear of the overblown party towns, we spent ages poring over the merits and demerits of just about everywhere until we settled on two locations in South Goa, missing out North Goa and its party scene completely. It’s not until we leave Goa International Airport that it dawns on us that something is amiss, when the hotel driver (we’d pre-arranged collection) turns north instead of south and crosses the gigantic New Zuari Bridge. Surely we’re heading the wrong way?
After our long deliberations we’d settled on the attractive looking town of Palolem. Palolem is south of the airport, not north. Rather than question the driver – I mean, he must know the best way to his own hotel after all – Michaela checks our reservation. Somehow, goodness knows how, we’ve managed to book a location 50 miles up the coast, North Goa instead of South. We are unintentionally heading for Candolim, a place we’d rejected because we suspected it may be one of the party towns. Our chins drop a bit as the reality hits.
Those idyllic coconut palm beaches of Palolem where we’d been anticipating spending Christmas have just disappeared over the horizon and we’re heading somewhere entirely different. Neither of us can quite believe it for a moment or two.
But actually everything works out fine – there’s no massive party scene here after all, just music at beach bars after dark. Yes, there’s lots of Brits on holiday, and Candolim is definitely a seaside holiday town, but there’s no real hint of the clubbing party vibe which we’d feared. We don’t know yet if this is true of the Goan coast as a whole, but one thing is for sure – this is no longer anything like India. In fact, Candolim is the sort of bohemian bar-and-restaurant-filled, souvenir shop beach town which one can find anywhere from Thailand to Turkey to the Caribbean. There’s even an “English Restaurant” serving roast dinners and steak and ale pud, and it’s always busy……no, of course we don’t!
But we came here to chill after our run of Indian cities, and spend a relaxing, sun drenched Christmas doing not very much, and, despite being at an accidental destination, Candolim looks set to deliver more or less what we were looking for in those respects.
At the beach
It’s an amusing place to be, completely geared to the holiday trade, very much focused on British, Russian and Indian holidaymakers – the absolute vast majority of British visitors here seem to be northerners from Yorkshire and Lancashire, many of whom spend their whole winter here. Guaranteed weather, great beaches, dozens of restaurants and food choices which mean it doesn’t have to be curry every time. And it’s cheap. We absolutely get why they choose Candolim, and Goa.
The differences between Goa and other parts of India really are extreme, this is in effect a different country just as we had been advised; we really are no longer in the India we’d come to recognise. Sarees and salwar have all but completely disappeared, replaced by summer dresses, shorts and jeans, and there’s been a significant shift in religious demographics – 66% of the population is Hindu, but only 8% are Muslim. No muezzins’ call to prayer round here. 25% of the population are Christian, for the most part Catholic, mainly due to the 450 years of Portuguese rule which only ended when Goa was annexed by India in 1961, some 13 years after India’s independence from Britain.
There are clear Portuguese influences in the cuisine, the most interesting (to us anyway) of which is that when the Portuguese arrived and found spicy curries difficult to take, they added wine and garlic to create what was for them a more palatable flavour. “Wine with garlic” in Portuguese is vinho d’alhao…or vin d’alhao….and hey presto, you have the origin of the word vindaloo. We had no idea that vindaloo was of Goan origin, let alone partly Portuguese.
A few miles down the road from Candolim is the Goa state capital, Panaji, which hides the rather wonderful Fontainhas quarter where the examples of Portuguese architectural design are at their most prevalent. It’s an incredibly attractive enclave of colourful colonial houses with so many interesting features, yet the whole area is festooned with signs prohibiting photography – and policed by whistle blowing officials who step in to move on anyone daring to snap a picture. Apparently this ban is a result of what the signs call “noisy uncouth Instagrammers”… OK we understand that residents might get a bit fed up but doesn’t that all seem a bit heavy handed? Especially when the area is so attractive.
There’s not much else to report from Candolim. Nobody needs a description of lazing in the sun. However, there’s one last tale to tell…..
It starts on Christmas Eve, probably with the giant prawns we ordered from a beach bar at lunchtime. By evening Michaela’s not feeling too bright and struggles to eat half of her grilled fish dinner. By Christmas morning we’ve both been struck by the dreaded Indian tummy and even a seriously light breakfast is a tester. The race downhill is a dual one and by late afternoon we both know we’ve got to give up the fight for today. And so it is that our entire consumption of food and drink for Christmas Day 2025 is a slice of toast, a packet of crisps and….water. Great timing huh.
23 Comments
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Sorry to hear about the tummy troubles but I hope it cleared up fast. Here, the flu is making its rounds, and it’s nasty. I hope the rest of your break was enjoyable. Happy New Year. All the best to you and Michaela for 2026.
Phil & Michaela
To you too Lynette!
Annie Berger
Oh. We came so close to visiting Goa and Candolim in the spring of 2020 until COVID forced us to give up our trip in Kerala and head home. I’d give my eyeteeth to head back after reading about it through your text and Michaela’s photos, Phil. How I’d love to wander along the colorful streets and see for myself the Portuguese influences in the lovely tile work. I hope you have fully recovered from your Indian tummy by now!
Phil & Michaela
It’s very much a holiday town, more “vacation” than “travelling” if you get my meaning. So very different from the other parts of India we’ve seen.
restlessjo
Don’t worry, Phil! We ate your share. And you have all the rest of the year to make up for it. I’m celebrating the Portuguese influence in Goa. Happy New Year to you both xx
Phil & Michaela
The Portuguese influence is unmissable, interestingly enough, Jo. Happy New Year to you two, too!
Miriam
Oh dear! I’m sure that’s not quite the festive Christmas meal you had planned. But if it’s any consolation my sister ate a massive slab of left over tiramisu, so much that she had severe reflex for two days. Yep, over consumption, not good for anyone. Hope you’re over the worst of it.
Interesting to read of the origins of Vindaloo. As an Italian I adore wine with garlic. Anyway, cheers to a healthy, happy exciting year of travels in 2026. 🙂
Phil & Michaela
These things happen huh! Happy New Year to you too!!
Eha Carr
Oh! Life > the good, the bad and the indifferent! Not quite as planned as for many of us . . . You do not say anything about your accommodation . . . hope once you close your door from the outside world it is as you booked and hoped for if you are there for three warm beachside Christmas weeks . . . The streets look colourful . . . hope the food is good > I have loved many of the Goan dishes prepared thru’ the years. Did not remember my beloved ‘vindaloo’ originated there and how . . . Do hope all traces of the gyppy tummy are now in the past, hope you are discovering a few eating places to which you want return . . . if there are interesting fish and vegetable markets around > can you prep a few tasty morsels to have on the patio if such is present . . . whatever: be well and come and tell us again . . .
Phil & Michaela
Well we have a number of different bases through Goa and Kerala (not all coastal) but yes at least the one we had in Candolim was a decent refuge while we felt off colour. Will probably do an update on food and drink shortly….
Monkey's Tale
I almost started the comment with a laugh, but then thought it may look like I’m laughing at your Delhi belly misfortunes, which I’m not. I’m laughing at the booking mistake. It happens to the beat of us. Richard booked us a flight to Curitiba instead of Cuiaba, Brazil. Luckily we could change it without much penalty. And sounds like your mistake wasn’t too bad either. I’m shocked, though, that you can’t take pictures in Panaji! That’s crazy, it is so cute! Hope you’re feeling better. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
I know! As you saw, Michaela managed some shots but the very best of the buildings were too heavily protected and we had to leave alone. And yes, it’s such an attractive little corner of the world. Candolim was fun enough but very much more “vacation” than “travel”.
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
Well, that was a happy accident. Glad Michaela managed a few ‘illegal’ shots to put the tale into perspective. Phil, don’t say ‘vacation’ like it’s a dirty word! There is nothing wrong with basking on a beach, sipping drinks with an umbrella – unless it is served with Montezuma’s Revenge. Sorry about that part, and hope you are fully recovered. Happy New Year.
Phil & Michaela
Ha ha Suzanne your comment made me laugh out loud. You’re so right, I’m having a guilty conscience attack about doing nothing when I absolutely don’t need to have! Happy new year to you too, Suzanne – here’s to another great retirement year in ‘26 huh…
Toonsarah
A shame about the Delhi belly attack, especially the timing. I must admit I’m cautious these days and tend to stick to veggie dishes if ordering in more casual local places – prawns have been my downfall several times in the past 🙁 But I’m glad the mistake in the hotel booking didn’t really impact your chance to relax and chill in what is as you say a very different part of India. The houses in Fontainhas look so colourful – I’m glad Michaela (I assume?) managed to sneak a few shots. I would be so frustrated about those restrictions!
Phil & Michaela
All of the very best of those wonderful buildings were out of bounds and thus excluded from our post. Very frustrating. Bit of a funny Christmas Day…and the old Indian tum is proving a bit stubborn too..
Toonsarah
Fingers crossed you’ll be rid of it soon 🤞🏻
WanderingCanadians
Glad to hear the place you stayed worked out well and that it wasn’t an obnoxiously loud party scene. Bummer about not feeling well over Christmas though.
Phil & Michaela
These things happen….unfortunately!
Lookoom
A little unexpected on this trip to India, but you make the best of it. After all, isn’t that why we travel, to be surprised? I’m not talking about food issues.
Phil & Michaela
Yes indeed, and it was fine anyway!
grandmisadventures
Well it sounds like things worked out okay on the location, but maybe not as okay on your Christmas day digestive issues. The city though looks really beautiful! Happy New Year!
Phil & Michaela
Happy New Year, Meg….yep, it’s down to those surprises which travel brings, again!