The Wonderful City Of Cusco
Sometime during 1993 the Peruvian Government took it upon themselves to draw up a national constitution. Within this document was a declaration that the city of Cusco should be officially recognised as Peru’s Historic And Cultural Capital, so providing this lovely city with an accolade to match its indisputable and enduring appeal.
In truth, it really is a lovely city, especially the narrow cobbled streets which gravitate on steep hills away from Cusco’s beating heart, the bustling Plaza de Armas. The cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin of the Assumption and the almost as large Iglesia de la Compañia de Jesus dominate the two sides of the square which aren’t taken up by restaurants and cafes sporting pretty wooden balconies. The centro historico, unlike many similar smaller historical centres, spreads over a wide area, tightly packed with atmospheric streets radiating away from the main square. Many of these terrific streets are tight, cobbled affairs still evocatively flanked by towering original Inca walls. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, the beauty of Cusco should remain unspoilt.
Some streets, like the Hatun Rumiyuq, are too tight for motor vehicles and are consequently filled with street vendors whose stalls are splashes of bright colour; others, just wide enough for one way traffic, hide courtyards and alcoves where artisan goods vie for position with fluffy llamas and Machu Picchu T-shirts. Traditional trades and the tourist economy clash in a riot of colour.
Cusco, originally Qosqo and spelt Cuzco during Spanish occupation, has long been a city of great significance. Previously occupied by the Killke people for three centuries, it was during the 13th century AD that Cusco rose to become the capital of the vast Inca empire, a city of economic, cultural and spiritual significance to the Incas right up until the Spanish invasion of 1532. The Spanish, led by one Francisco Pizarro, were reportedly blown away by the beauty of the city, which possibly explains why Cusco was only partially ransacked rather than suffering the more commonplace total destruction for which the conquistadors were renowned.
If the colonisers were impressed in the 16th century then it’s fair to say that Cusco’s appeal hasn’t diminished and continues to wow the large numbers of visitors who like us pause here for a few days en route to the Sacred Valley. It really is lovely, enhanced by sympathetic street lighting and signage to accentuate the colonial and traditional architecture and those impressive Inca walls. There’s no mistaking the fact that tourism is a major contributor to the city’s economy yet it’s also very clear that its soul is distinctly indigenous.
Plaza de Armas is often alive with dance groups rehearsing complicated choreographed routines, joy on the faces of young and old participants alike. Of course, tour operators, alpaca product vendors and shoeshine boys are constant interruptions to progress across the square, but this city is so vibrant and so attractive that nothing can stop its infectious joy filling our hearts. And if you reach the unlikely point where Cusco no longer holds your interest, just lift your gaze to take in the views of the majestic Andes Mountains which gloriously encircle the city.
The Quechua, the remaining direct descendants of the Incas, live and thrive in the suburbs of Cusco and the surrounding Andean villages. Their culture lives on, not just in the tiresomely common way of donning traditional garb and charging for photographs, but in everyday life as their independent trades, skills and markets still provide a living for the majority of the Quechua community. The Quechua language is still their mother tongue.
Having briefly caught glimpses of ancient sights on the tourist bus the other day, we return for a better and more detailed look, firstly at the sacred site of Sacsayhuamán. The name, which translates as “the fortress of the royal falcon”, is unfortunately pronounced in local tongue in a way which sounds identical to “sexy woman”, giving local guides a shoe-in opportunity for obvious jokes. The citadel was constructed by the Incas during the 15th century to afford some protection to the sacred city of Qosqo, the remains these days giving some clue as to the size of the fortress.
Indeed, some of the most important Quechua ceremonies, surviving from the Inca period, still take place at Sacsayhuamán, notably on the winter solstice June 24th when the sun and the planets align with monoliths within the fortress. We visit a couple of the other ancient Inca sites too, but Sacsayhuamán remains the most impressive. As we overhear a guide say, no visit to Cusco is complete without a visit to the sexy woman.
Perhaps a final word on the genuinely delightful, absorbing city of Cusco: FOOD. Peru really has hit the highest notes on cuisine up to now, the burgeoning reputation of this country’s food is richly deserved and arguably overdue, but somehow Cusco has taken it to another level. Delicious meals, time and again.
This city has won us over, the excursion to Rainbow Mountain and the Red Valley utterly memorable, our time here too short and we will pleased to be making a brief return later on in this Peruvian escapade. For now, it’s time to move on….
Just before 7am Tuesday we wander into Estacion San Pedro, go through the ticket and passport check, and wait to board. Across the tracks at Platform 2 sits the smart blue Peru Rail train to Machu Picchu, waiting to take us on a fantastic, unforgettable journey up through the Sacred Valley towards one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World. Half an hour later the train pulls slowly out of the station and into the morning sun, and we begin what is widely recognised as one of the World’s greatest train journeys…
25 Comments
Eha Carr
You two do manage, don’t you! I don’t think my inborn heart problems would ever allow me to such heights – but I have seen and read so many descriptions of this before . . . and guess who holds a certain top spot in my files! Thank you so much for sharing!!! Your Cusco city photos really give one a feel of what it would be like walking alongside you . . . but, in this instance, having for well over a decade been wandering the on-line foodie world . . . am sitting and staring and trying to work out what you were offered on all those plates! Yum – what colour is green . . . I know you enjoyed . . . us too 🙂 !!!
Phil & Michaela
Peruvian cuisine is – no exaggeration – rocketing to the top of our “best countries for food” list. Wonderfully tasty, extremely varied, and beautifully presented. And, what’s more, very easy to eat healthily. I guess living at these altitudes means that the people of this region knew about “superfoods” long before we ever gave it that name.
Eha Carr
Laughing! Me and my expressions – sorry!!! No – I meant my green face from being just a tad jealous 🙂 !!!
Phil & Michaela
😂😂😂 And I must stop reading and responding when half asleep! Note to self : LEAVE IT TILL MORNING 😂😂
Phil & Michaela
Oh, sorry Eha…if you’re asking me what the regularly occurring bright green is, it’s avocado…
Miriam
Love those cobblestone streets, that amazing architecture and all of that gorgeous, delicious looking food. Sooo good. You two continue to put places on my bucket list!!
Phil & Michaela
If you can deal with the altitude, it’s a wonderful city!
WanderingCanadians
Cusco looks charming and the food looks delicious.
Phil & Michaela
Both are amazing! And as for the food, delicious fare presented beautifully, and seriously not expensive.
Travels Through My Lens
I have some good friends who spent some time in Cusco before hiking to Manchu Picchu and were equally enchanted with the city. The food looks delicious and artfully presented. I’m looking forward to reading more about your adventures in Peru.
Phil & Michaela
It’s a really lovely city, such a good place. Oh, the food….and it’s not expensive either…
Helen Devries
Food, architecture and ancient ruins…..it has it all.
Looking forward to reading about the train trip.
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Helen, this country just keeps on giving!
Monkey's Tale
I’m so glad you also fell in love with Cusco. Your words and pictures immediately transported me to the city that doesn’t look like it has changed much in the last decade. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Lovely city, everything about it is good. And with UNESCO protection is should stay unchanged too, hopefully.
Toonsarah
We really liked Cusco although a tummy upset meant that I wiped out one of our too few days there. Thanks for the memories 🙂 And your food gallery is fabulous!
Phil & Michaela
Everything is just getting more and more amazing with this trip, Peru is turning out to be at least as fabulous as everyone said, possibly more so. As for the food…not only delicious but so beautifully presented. It’s like dining high end for fish n chips prices!
Lookoom
Like many other travellers, I felt at home in Cusco, even if the stopovers before and after Machu Picchu were too short. There is both the warm welcome of those who work in tourism and know their business well and the imperturbable local population in their traditional clothes who pass by without seeing all these foreigners, like two eras blending together at the same time.
Phil & Michaela
That’s it exactly, so much so that I wish I’d thought of that last sentence!
Parks and Planes
The food options look incredible! Definitely a place for the foodies.
Phil & Michaela
Unbelievably good, and not expensive by any means!
grandmisadventures
Beautiful tour around this beautiful city! I really love the narrow streets and the rows of arches at the temple of the sun god. And the view of the Andes as the sun sets is fabulous 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Super city, Meg. At least once you’ve acclimatised to the altitude. Michaela rates it as possibly her favourite city so far, worldwide!
Annie Berger
Thanks for reminding me of what a special city Cusco is, Phil. You captured the heart and soul of the vibrant city before leaving for the Sacred Valley.
Phil & Michaela
It’s a lovely city, Annie. We really liked it, once we’d acclimatised…