Sex And Empanadas: Farewell To The Sacred Valley
Mystique surrounds our village of Ollantaytambo. We wake each morning to the sound of rushing water and the sight of the Inca terraces looking down from the towering mountain, the early morning sun creeps over the summits and, although we can’t see it, we know that just a short distance away the sundial obelisk erected by the Incas centuries ago is still announcing the dawn of another day just as it did back then.
Ollantaytambo stirs. Guides for those on the Inca Trail pack up their tents on the green next to the ancient Punku Punku gateway ready for the next leg; cafe owners clean the dust from windows; souvenir sellers at the entrance to the Inca site begin the daily chore of laying out their displays of fluffy llamas and gaudy ponchos and hats. The minibuses will be here soon.
The day unfolds. Feeling absorbed by the mystique and all that Rene has taught us, there is a sense of wonder as we amble just out of the village to the site of Qelloraquay, the remains of a smaller Inca agricultural settlement closer to the Urubamba River. This sense of wonderment is shattered in an instant as we turn into the main structure and stumble on a young couple energetically engaged in the full sexual act on the grass by one of the ancient walls. So absorbed are they in their romantic encounter that they aren’t even aware of our presence, enabling us to slip away undetected. On sacred ground too, the naughty little devils.
It’s time to leave Rene’s riverside home, bid farewell to his wife and 2-year old daughter and head away from this rather magical village at the heart of the Sacred Valley, though not yet to Rene himself who is driving us back to Cusco via detours to yet more historical sites.
As we drive out through the square a policeman, or at least a Serenazgo, blows his whistle and waves us through. These guys have been in every town, village and city in Peru, and have amused us throughout. We are convinced that as part of their training they must go to a whistling school, where they are taught the art of blowing their whistle to maximum effect, learning firstly that it is their job to blow loudly and wave through cars in the direction which they are already travelling, and also to never let more than three minutes pass by without another loud blast on the whistle, even if there’s no traffic. We even saw one giving regular blasts in the centre of a pedestrianised square. Whistle equals status symbol, evidently.
The incredible scenery continues to unfold as we pass through the Inca village of Chinchero where the well preserved ruins tell a special story: in Inca beliefs, Chinchero was the birthplace of the rainbow. The pot of gold has presumably long since upped and moved on. We too move on, through the attractive town of Pisaq, climbing next way above the town itself to almost 1,000 metres higher where there lies one more ancient Inca site. Its lofty position gives fabulous views across the dramatic scenery and to the town below, as well as another dose of the mystique which has been a constant feature of our time in the Sacred Valley.
Pisaq has long been a source of silver mining, so inevitably was plundered and ravaged by the Spanish – so many times in the company of Rene he has spoken of the “murder” and “slaughter” of the Incas by the conquistadors, on one occasion shaking his head and saying, “all because they had a different God”. That sentiment needs no further comment from us.
We are leaving the Sacred Valley with suntanned faces despite the fact that evenings are spent wrapped in coats, the temperature plummets just after 4pm even before the sun goes down, which is as intriguing as it is predictable. As we near Cusco, the red heads of the quinoa fields sway in the breeze and the snowy caps of the highest peaks creep just a little further down the mountainsides as winter strengthens its grip. Rene wants to call in at the home of “the best empanadas in the valley”, an opinion we share after sampling them, baked in a traditional wood fired oven and with the pastry made from the quinoa which decorates the valley. Sumptuous.
Up in the mountain villages, well away from the tourist sites, it’s been noticeable that traditional dress is still worn daily by many, women in particular. Short ladies in wide beamed skirts, wrapped in colourfully dyed alpaca wool, long dark hair tightly plaited to the waist, are kept busy by the tasks of mountain life – those in the cities holding baby alpacas and posing for photographs are only a slight exaggeration of ordinary village life.
Rene is gone, we are back in Cusco, for one night only. Plaza de Armas is alive, the national and regional flags now billowing in the breeze where before there was nothing. A delightful children’s parade is in progress, little ones looking proud to be sporting traditional costumes and taking the applause of the crowd, some of the entourage just three years old. It’s June now, a month known in Cusco as the jubilee month, packed with festivities which merge Inca beliefs including the winter solstice with Catholic events such as Corpus Christi. There is already a sense of occasion buzzing around the city. We have loved Cusco; indeed Michaela has even said that it is possibly her favourite city so far visited anywhere in the world. But it’s time to say ciao.
Children’s parade, Cusco
The following day we arrive on a short morning flight in the city of Arequipa, bathed in sunshine, its cathedral towers basking in the view of the neighbouring volcanoes. First impressions are of a classy, proud city, our first walks, in daylight and after dark, putting us very much in mind of similarly classy cities in Spain – we could be somewhere like Seville or Valencia.
As if we weren’t already thinking that Peru is one of the very best countries we’ve visited, Arequipa looks like it’s poised to offer a different kind of allure…
Alpaca slideshow
22 Comments
Eha Carr
Another fabulous travel story to read and to keep! *smiling* On IG I am already at your next destination but have SO enjoyed the photos here! Two things I’ll remember – the local ladies with their ‘men’s hats’ and the colourful children, many still tiny but so ready to march and dance 🙂 ! Unlike children here their heads always seem to be covered . . . and, am laughing at the business acumen at the empanada bakery > all the main tourist languages make ordering easy, don’t they!
Phil & Michaela
Yeah a good bit of work by the bakers huh. There’s so much to love about Peru, Eha…amazing country!
Lookoom
I also really liked Arequipa for the quality of its preserved colonial architecture, despite the earthquakes. Looking at all the sites in the Sacred Valley that you’ve visited, I think it’s a shame that it isn’t promoted more, as there’s plenty to complement the visit to Machu Picchu.
Phil & Michaela
Spectacular place, almost beyond belief. Full of dramatic scenery as well as all the history it has in its mountains.
wetanddustyroads
Well, I thought Ollantaytambo was one of a kind, and those statues just confirmed it! It’s always great to see so many beautiful places on the way back to a destination – such a lovely photo of the Terraces of Pisaq (and also the kids in their colourful costumes).
Phil & Michaela
It was all wonderful, all of it – Peru has delivered on so many levels!
Toonsarah
How to compose a blog post title that will grab attention 😀 Luckily the post lives up to the promise of the title, with some fantastic photos of the Sacred Velley’s scenery and sights. And I love the alpaca slideshow – they’re just so cute!
Phil & Michaela
😂😂. I even made myself laugh with that one! Such a wonderful area, Sarah, I don’t think we’ll ever lose the wonder of this Peru trip. Fabulous country.
Monkey's Tale
I really wondered where the title would head 😅 Quite the welcoming committee in the Sacred Valley. Love the alpacas!! Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Ha ha, well, what is travel without the funny moments huh. Still being absolutely blown away by Peru. What a sensational country.
Monkey's Tale
It is, and I see you’re also falling in love with Arequipa. 😊
Phil & Michaela
More to come on that one!
Steven and Annie Berger
Quite an amazing trip. We followed almost an identical route 6 or 7 years ago so it’s fun to revisit so many wonderful places through your eyes. We did miss climbing to 15,500 feet and the sex encounter but did get to attend mass and the Sunday market in Pisac. Enjoy the absolutely charming “White City” and the rest of your trip.
Wishing you both good health and safe travels,
Steve
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Steve, nobody needs ti stumble on that huh! Absolutely loving Peru, really is one of our favourite countries…
WanderingCanadians
The alpaca slideshow is very adorable! And the views of the valley are beautiful.
Phil & Michaela
They are very cute, aren’t they! The Sacred Valley though is a truly magical place.
Helen Devries
Great title……worthy of a soap opera!
You’re making me wish I could travel again…..Peru sounds just fabulous.
Phil & Michaela
It really is, Helen. We’re seriously impressed…
Heyjude
Stunning photos Michaela! Peru has obviously stolen your heart. And Jo will love the photos of the children’s parade; she loves a parade. Arequipa is another city I am unfamiliar with. I look forward to your next post. Are flights within Peru reasonably priced then? And are you venturing into other parts of South America?
Phil & Michaela
Yes and yes. Domestic flights are more than reasonable, that flight from Cusco to Arequipa cost £70 each including hold luggage, so not bad at all. We’re due to leave Peru on Friday and cross into Bolivia for a few weeks, but, having toured Brazil (and a little bit of Argentina) last year, we are keen to see more of South America. It’s great so far, but Peru really is special.
grandmisadventures
I’m not all that religious or superstitious…but I still feel that you’re just asking for trouble when you have such a romantic encounter on sacred ground. But besides that akward moment, what an incredible place you’ve shared with us. I love the rolling hills of the sacred valley and seeing some of the local culture. It just makes me want to hop a plane to Peru 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It is a truly stunning and inspiring place, you can’t help but understand why ancient races declared it sacred. It still is quite awe inspiring.