Samaipata: Finding Our Happy Place
You know how it works. Places are never quite how you picture them to be: some places exceed expectations, some don’t quite get there, some turn out to be completely different from how you imagine, one way or another. It’s quite rare that somewhere is precisely what you were hoping for, and is the perfect setting for the next part of your travel plan. Samaipata is exactly that.
We pictured as our last destination on this fabulous journey a quiet, peaceful village surrounded by beautiful scenery, maybe an apartment with fabulous views, where we could relax and enjoy our last few days, maybe meet a few people, become, albeit briefly, part of village life. Samaipata could not fit those hopes more perfectly, this is exactly where we wanted to be to draw a relaxing line at the end of this amazing and stimulating adventure.
“If you want to get to know everyone, just go for beer or wine at Boheme”, our host Andres had said on our arrival, “Kirsty will introduce you to everybody”. Kirsty has one of those enviable travel stories, her and her husband part way through travelling the world when they rocked up in Samaipata…and stayed for ever when given the opportunity to take over the local bar. As Kirsty herself puts it, “two drunken Australians taking over a bar, what could possibly go wrong there?”.
Well seemingly not much has gone wrong. Boheme is the centre of Samaipata life, full of chatter by day, full of verve by night.
Being here in this village is everything we hoped it would be. Peaceful, tranquil, clean and clear air, gorgeous little village, amazing apartment set in beautiful gardens, colourful birds visiting the feeders, clear blue skies and unbroken sunshine. The kind of place where you order lunch and, next thing, restaurant staff are speeding to the market on their moped to buy the ingredients for your meal. Don’t you just love that. Samaipata is without doubt our happy place, the perfect final chill place on this journey which has been so full of excitement and adventure.
Of course, we take the one excursion out of the village which is de rigeur here, up to El Fuerte (the fort) high up on the hills above the village. Despite its name, El Fuerte wasn’t any kind of fortress until the Spanish arrived and enhanced what was already there. In its previous guises it had been an Inca settlement, including temples, and, evidenced by artefacts found within its walls, an important trading post. Archeological examination suggests that El Fuerte was abandoned by the Incas whilst still partly under construction, probably as the Spanish arrived. Our walk along the trail around the site is as notable for the fabulous views as it is for the site itself.
But for once there’s no great adventures or unusual experiences here, just a beautifully peaceful few days to bring the trip to a close. We take a couple of modest uphill hikes to gain views across the village, buy trinkets from the stall holders and some artwork from Leo the local artist, but really Samaipata is the “great unwind” after weeks of adventure, and with its calm and charm, it’s just the perfect place for it.
In the hills above the town there are some seriously nice properties, large secluded houses with outdoor lounges and pools, most of them looking like empty second homes. As the weekend unfolds, weekenders arrive in the village in their 4x4s, Samapaita is clearly a weekend getaway for those who can afford it.
This incredible journey is coming to a close. Never before have we seen desert dunes, Amazon rainforest, sweltering temperatures and minus 15 all on one journey – let alone a journey which took us to the mysteries of the Nasca lines, under the ground into a mine, three weeks at high altitude, to the summit of Rainbow Mountain, to the joy of Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley…..well, the list could go on. Even experienced our first earthquake. It’s been an incredible voyage and one which has convinced us that South America is, for us, unfinished business.
From Samaipata we will commence the long journey home; first to Santa Cruz de la Sierra for a night in a hotel close to the airport, then flights home via Madrid. And so will end this most exciting and stimulating of journeys through two truly amazing countries.
I close my eyes, feeling the warm sun on my face and listening to the gentle sounds of Sunday morning in a sleepy village. The scent of lavender drifts up from the gardens beneath us, the chirruping of birds provides a gentle soundtrack to the peaceful morning. It’s the time of day when the crowing of cockerels starts to give way to the barking of dogs. Somewhere in the distance a radio plays, its sounds all but smothered by the sounds of nature. Every few minutes a large black raptor circles above, ominously eyeing up potential victims in the colourful crowd around the garden feeders, its silent flight perfect for this tranquil morning. Our balcony is in full sun until around noon, with the inevitable consequence that each of our Samaipata days has been defined by a slow start. It’s heaven sitting here, feeling the sunshine and hearing these sounds, so utterly relaxing that it’s hard to believe that tomorrow morning we’ll be loading the backpacks and leaving here, let alone that we will be heading home. When I open my eyes again, Michaela is looking at me. We exchange a look, knowing that this has been one of our very best adventures to date. A magical journey with so many wonderful memories…..
30 Comments
Eha Carr
You two are not just ‘two hungry travellers”, hungry for whatever . . . you are two wise ones, realizing you needed this very quiet break ere returning to your normal, modern, noisy world! Phil . . . I love your last three sentences because they sum ‘everything’ up . . . was going to write more . . , there is no need for that . . .
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, Eha. Your comments are always so lovely, you make us feel that we’ve conveyed the correct emotions in our posts, which is very gratifying, and much appreciated. Anyway, the travel bug has now bitten so deep that we won’t be home for long…watch this space…😃
Lookoom
You’ve really gone to the depths of the experiences that Peru and Bolivia have to offer. I’ve also enjoyed my travels in this part of the world for the authenticity of local life that has been preserved, even where tourism dominates. It’s like if all these foreigners had no influence on the way of life inherited from ancestors and perpetuated by everyone in turn.
Phil & Michaela
Yes indeed. Ancient indigenous beliefs are only just beneath the surface, I think that’s probably the core. It’s been a wonderful journey. Very keen to see more of South America…
Steven and Annie Berger
What a picture perfect ending. Time to enjoy home for a while. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed reading all your posts on Peru and Bolivia.
Wishing you good health and safe travels,
Steve
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Steven, this has undoubtedly been one of our very best trips so far.
Monkey's Tale
Samaipata is the perfect place to wind down. Glad you love Peru and Bolivia as much as we do. Now a little rest, and decide what’s next 😊
Phil & Michaela
What a wonderful trip it’s been….we won’t be home for long…..
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
It’s clear that you had an awesome trip and are going home completely fulfilled but ready to return, too. Could you ask for anything more?
Phil & Michaela
Probably not, it’s been absolutely wonderful, Lynette. Though we’re not planning on being home for long. Too much of the world still to see!
restlessjo
And still lots of South America to conquer! That apartment does look an idyll, Phil, and when 2 drunken Aussies have found their happy place… well, no need to roam. For now! See you at ours, hopefully, but there will be no comparison. Safe journey home xx
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Jo….not intending to be home for long….😀
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
Sometimes the universe responds to our desires. Glad that was the case here. It looks like a lovely ending to an eventful trip. Where to next?
Phil & Michaela
Not so far afield this time….and not long in the future either 😀
Toonsarah
Samaipata does indeed look and sound perfect! I love the sound of Boheme, but the other eating/drinking places you show in your photos look great too. And of course I love the street art! I also would love to watch the birds at the feeders and explore El Fuerte.
Safe travels home, and hope to catch up soon (if you stay here long enough!)
Phil & Michaela
Ah well……maybe not so long! Loved Samaipata, such a great way to finish.
Helen Devries
‘Respira….estas en Samaipata’….just about sums it up….as does the experience of ordering lunch and having the staff shoot off to get the wherewithall – reminds me of our favourite caff in the Mercado Borbon here in San Jose – clearly they have the problem of unused stock beaten.
What a wonderful trip you have shared with us all…..for my part I have learned a great deal, for which many thanks.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Helen, it really has been fabulous…
WanderingCanadians
Glad there were no surprises at the last destination of your trip and that it was every bit quiet, peaceful and enjoyable as you had imagined. Safe travels home.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you – home now. At the end of a magnificent journey…
The Flask Half Full
What an incredible trip you and Michaela had! Hopefully, you’re home now and resting up from your vacation. Love the photos of the street art in Samaipata. That’s something I’m always drawn to when we travel. I ended up starting a whole portfolio of various street art from around the world. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
One of our best trips yet….no doubt…
grandmisadventures
A beautiful place to end a beautiful chapter of traveling. This town does seem like the perfect way to relax for the last few days before journeying home 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It was exactly that!
Annie Berger
Your joy, happiness, and peace from your stay in Samaipata is palpable, Phil.. I’d never heard about the town until you wrote about it so glowingly. What a great way to end a fabulous trip!
Phil & Michaela
It was exactly what we wanted, Annie. Great end to one of our best trips so far.
wetanddustyroads
Samaipata sounds (and looks) like the right place to end another jam-packed trip. I think it’s good to just relax for a few days before you go back home … as you’ve mentioned, time to unwind and take it all in.
Phil & Michaela
It was absolutely the perfect place for it too Corna
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderersl
Another great post.
Phil & Michaela
Cheers guys 😀