On Holiday In Varkala
Red dust blows in flurries between the buses which sit with doors wide open waiting for departure time, street dogs using the shade of the big vehicles to sleep out of the glare of the raging sun. It’s H-O-T hot. So intensely hot. There’s probably a few mad dogs out there somewhere in the midday sun; certainly there’s a couple of English(men), humping backpacks across the “bus stand”, kicking up red dust, sweating as they seek out their next temporary home. Our host arrives, shows us around our apartment, and demonstrates how to switch on the washing machine which, much to his horror, sprays water right across the room from the feeder pipe. He mops up. An eager little repair man with a neat little moustache attends promptly.
By the time we’ve unpacked the bags and fetched a few essential supplies from a local shop – including, by the way, Kellogg’s Corn Flakes as we seek something, anything, to avoid another curry for breakfast – it’s time to get out and see what night time in Varkala offers. This is, after all, a seaside town with a reputation for hippy vibes, Ayurveda treatments and yoga classes. Early evening the bars along the North Cliff are a blaze of colourful neon (LED actually, for the technically minded) which could be mistaken for a stretch of Blackpool’s Golden Mile apart from the fact that you can actually hear the sea, and it’s tuk-tuks rather than trams which bring you here.
Scratch the surface though and the deep cultural differences between Kerala and any English seaside town soon appear. Licensing laws are strict here and the vast majority, even those restaurants where the presence of tablecloths would suggest a certain ambience, offer only non-alcoholic drinks. Yoga classes and beady necklaces spawn far more billboards than Kingfisher. A couple of outlets have both live music AND alcohol, maybe the licence makes it obligatory to have either both, or neither.
The atmosphere along the narrow cliff walkway is quickly engaging, and we enjoy a couple of those Kingfishers with fellow “travelling retireds” from Yorkshire before accidentally ordering a spicy curry. Honestly, even if you ask for “medium spicy” you will get something pretty damned hot – we like spicy food but, believe us, the people of Kerala eat fire. Raw fire. On steroids. We return to the apartment to find the AC unit has dumped water all over the tiled floor. We mop up, and next morning message the host. An eager little repair man with a neat little moustache attends promptly. His Indian head wobble seems to say, “yep, it’s me again”.
I’m making the apartment sound problematical – it isn’t, it’s absolutely lovely. It’s brand new, too, and we are, we’re told, only the fifth guests since it opened its doors. I’m sure these are just teething troubles.
It isn’t anything of a surprise that Varkala became a destination for backpackers thirty odd years ago, with its gigantic golden sand beach flanked on one side by red cliffs and on the other by the bluest, warmest sea we’ve encountered in quite some time. The red cliffs, coloured by a mix of laterite, a soil rich in iron oxide, and sandstone, are these days half covered in lush greenery and are crumbling visibly. Buildings of the village, including one large resort hotel, hang precipitously over the edge. One wonders how much longer these structures will survive – and how much of a disaster it might be when the hotel in particular slides down to the beach but, for now, the combination of gold, blue, green and red is a sumptuous one.
Our next stay from here, the last one of the trip, will be at an Ayurvedic treatment lodge where we intend to sample whatever it is that Ayurveda has to offer, but as Kerala lays claim to the origins of the genre, we set about trying some of its treatments here in Varkala. First a full body Ayurvedic massage (very relaxing, not too deep), then Ayurvedic reflexology (surprisingly good) and finally a pedicure (low key and unspectacular and Michaela’s worst varnish job ever).
Outside the apartment this morning two mongoose (mongooses? mongeese?) skulk furtively around the bus stand, looking severely disturbed by our presence – until we realise it’s not us that’s spooking them at all, it’s the dozen or so pariah kites swooping low above them, intent on turning scared mongoose into roast dinner. The little critters are outnumbered, under threat and in acute danger: how the hunt panned out, we’ll never know, but we can make a guess. Birds of prey mean business, especially when they hunt in packs like this.
Less under threat is the mustard coloured gecko which lives in our kitchen – she’s quite safe from human predators during our stay as she makes herself useful by consuming most of the intrusive ants which circle the waste bin feeding on scraps. Attagirl, Lizzie. Fill your boots. The over-length centipede which mysteriously appears in the shower is not so lucky – Michaela doesn’t fancy having that thing run over her bare feet so he disappears down the plughole like a child on a flume, blown away by the “bum gun”. We kid ourselves that he probably enjoyed the ride.
Friday night at North Cliff and roughly two thirds of India’s population of 1.5 billion seem to be out on the town tonight: it takes our tuk-tuk driver for ever to get through the traffic, then our walk along the cliff path is more of a shuffle than a stride. We’re in “God’s Own Country Kitchen” (great name), one of the bars with both alcohol and live music, and it’s not long before Friday Night Fever has reached out its tentacles and pulled us in. Michaela is inundated with dance requests which she doesn’t have it in her to refuse, much to the amusement of the beautiful Indian girls who have invited her into their troupe. Great moves, Michaela. I’ve got you on video.
“Good night” says the dancing waiter as we leave, “see you tomorrow”. Know what bud, you probably will.
During our days here we wander a long way in both directions from North Cliff, along the path itself and/or along the sand, the beaches literally do stretch for miles here. The Arabian Sea doesn’t so much kiss the shore as smash it in the face with an iron fist, the angry rollers hurling and crashing in like the Atlantic in one of its aggressive moods. You can wander out to enjoy its warmth, but there are danger points on the way out, with battering waves and a rip current which can take you off at the knees, as Michaela discovers as she does an unintentional somersault and ends up head butting the sea bed.
Pause a moment while we discuss communism. All the way through India we’ve been struck by the huge number of hammer-and-sickle banners and flags draped everywhere from street lights to private gardens. Just as I was wondering about this, I spot on the shelves in this apartment, a book entitled “Walking With The Comrades” by one Arundhati Roy, and my curiosity is more than satisfied. I learn that the communist movement has for decades provided the one single outlet for the lower castes to be heard, provided teachings around equality, the power of collective bargaining and, possibly biggest of all, support for women in a historically male dominated society. Lower castes which since ever have had no voice to be listened to, found in the Maoist ethic something which presented at last an opportunity to be treated with some respect. It’s a fascinating read, one which I devour within 24 hours.
We do indeed return to God’s Own Country Kitchen (great name) and are immediately greeted like old friends by the energetic, fun loving, dancing staff. This is unique in our India experiences….a local bar where we become known and welcomed. I mean, it’s happened in lots of other countries, but not here, this is a first.
Varkala is done. One last call at God’s Own Country Kitchen (great name) where the farewell hugs are huge and the insistence that we return someday are loud. We’ve enjoyed it here, yet we’ve had no excursions out of town and barely any exploration of Varkala itself. It’s a holiday town and, like the very many Indians enjoying their time here, we’ve been on holiday too.
One more stop to come on this Indian adventure….
40 Comments
Cathy
Sounds like you really enjoyed Varkala! How did it compare to Benaulim? Busier? More developed? Rent the rest of your trip!
Phil & Michaela
Hmm. Well. Probably a few more westerners in Benaulim than Varkala which was mostly holidaying Indians, which meant more choices of restaurant. And bars. Benaulim was smaller, village rather than town, so all in all I think we preferred Benaulim.
Cathy
Haha i meant enjoy the rest of your trip!
Phil & Michaela
😁
gsilvosatrekpix
great travel story!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you 😀
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Wow! It sounds like you were really sort of integrated – well, except for the fire-breathing curry maybe – into this holiday community. In the pictures you both look relaxed and happy. I hope you’re enjoying your last stop.
Phil & Michaela
There’s something slightly quirky about being in the midst of the holiday vibe in a place where the majority of the visitors are still in their own country. It was fun, that’s for sure! By the way, you’re no longer anonymous but still requiring approval…
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Oy!! I don’t know that there’s any other adjustments I can check so I guess it’s off to the happiness engineers. At least the “anonymous” bit is gone.
Phil & Michaela
I definitely approve of you, anyway, if that helps 😂
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Awww thanks. Appreciate it. 😉
Toonsarah
It’s posts like this that make me glad you decided to carry on blogging about your adventures as it’s another great read, complemented by Michaela’s lively photos 🙂 I love the sound of your ‘pet’ gecko – I always enjoy having them around! And I’m going to be interested to read about your experiences at the Ayurvedic treatment place. The hotel we stayed in in Kerala had an Ayurvedic centre attached – we didn’t partake of any treatments but some guests were there for their own week-long programme. They carried flasks of some unknown drink wherever they went and had a separate menu at meal times.
Your local bar tales reminded me of a restaurant/bar we went to in Goa and really liked. We left saying that we’d come back later in the week and saved it for our last evening. When we walked in the manager’s smile was enormous and I was surprised by quite how pleased he was to see us, but it turned out he’d had a bet with the waiter. The latter said we didn’t mean it and wouldn’t be back while the manager bet that we would. He was so pleased at winning the bet that he gave me a (cheap) bangle and both of us (probably also cheap) drinks on the house 😀
Phil & Michaela
Ha, excellent, those little moments are one of the (many) things that make travelling so much fun. Almost as much as the big moments. The Ayurveda thing is definitely interesting….my arthritis is giving me trouble out here and Ayurveda is reputed to help, so we’ll see..
Toonsarah
I hope it does 🤗
grandmisadventures
What a perfectly lovely seaside town. I think I would love wandering up and down the path on the North Cliff and then up and down along the beach. Then spend the evening in such a lively and colorful place- yup sounds just right for a vacation here 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It was definitely fun, especially given that most holidaymakers there are from other parts of India rather than international travellers. Made for an interesting atmosphere.
Eha Carr
I don’t quite know how much I would have liked Varkala in spite of the beach and warm water . . . but, Phil, your writing about your stay should end in a book for many to read . . . you really create a feeling-world for us also to be there amongst the local way of life, geckoes, centipedes, ants and gorgeous-looking puppies on the beach. Looking at the photos, you have truly been away from the artificial tourist throng . . . hopefully with tummy-health now fully recovered. Seeing the very real smiles around you, you have so well fitted into a very different and seemingly much younger scenario as travellers and visitors not ‘tourists’. Ayurveda . . . having been interested in so-called ‘alternate’ (ha!) medicine for eons of time, am really looking forwards to what you will have to say . . . and, and then back to the cold early spring of Motherland . . .
Phil & Michaela
And we’ve even had some snow while we’ve been away! Thank you for your lovely compliments, Eha, much appreciated. Varkala is definitely different, being amongst people on holiday but still in their own country is an interesting and different vibe. Same culture, different aspect. I’d love to put our experiences into a book but I don’t think that opportunity would ever arise!
Eha Carr
Cheeky question which you do not have to answer> ‘Why?’ You two know your ‘telling the tale’ the way you do makes people happy . . . ? Short stories about different places collected over a few years into a book . . . ?
Phil & Michaela
Well….because I can’t imagine any publisher would be sufficiently interested….not exactly going to be a million seller after all… No doubt though it would give us enormous pleasure to do it!
Monkey's Tale
Missed Varkala on our Kerala adventure, and I’m not sure I’m sorry that we did. How’s Michaela’ head??
Phil & Michaela
From the sea bed? Stiff neck for a couple of days then all good. Varkala is interesting though, Maggie – as I’ve said in replies to others, being amongst holidaymakers who are still in their own country is an experience all of its own. Same culture, different vibe.
Lookoom
Varkala sounds like a pleasant holiday town with just the right mix of local and Western influences, offering both comfort and exoticism.
Phil & Michaela
It was very interesting being amongst holidaymakers still in their own country and culture. You kind of have to adjust the way you’ve been for the last few weeks….but only slightly.
The Flask Half Full
HOT temperatures and curry for breakfast seem like they would be incompatible. I wouldn’t have been able to resist the Corn Flakes, either. I’ve learned, by egregious mistake, to order my Thai/Indian food “American spicy”. Massage and pedicure sound delightful – am disappointed there aren’t pics of Michaela’s toes! ;o)
I read with great interest your paragraph about communism and India’s caste system. I did my undergraduate research paper on that very subject (political science studies). Interesting stuff.
Glad you finally have a beer (and a G&T for Michaela?) in hand again. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
The flavours of Kerala food are amazingly good, but unless you ask for it to be toned right down, those flavours are just blitzed beyond recognition by the fiery spices. On the communism thing (startling coincidence that it’s one of your subjects!), there was a lot more in the book which I could have included but we try to keep our posts apolitical. The book was written in 2011, at which time the Indian Government agents were still carrying out murderous raids and gang rapes on the forest villages…mass slaughter hidden from the outside world, or maybe conveniently ignored by it. A short book, but a fascinating one.
The Flask Half Full
Yeah, I don’t like my food to taste like fire and/or pain. Have just ordered myself a copy of Walking with the Comrades. Looking forward to reading it.
Phil & Michaela
I bet you read it in one take….
Phil & Michaela
One last comment on this, if I may, Kirsten. I know you’ve given me a few reasons why you don’t fancy India, but if the caste system is one of your interests, you would be absolutely fascinated to observe how rife it still is to this day. Not all of it palatable either.
The Flask Half Full
No doubt I would be fascinated. But I’m not sure my irrational fear of germs and delicate stomach could handle India. 😉 I’ll keep the idea in my back pocket, though.
Helen Devries
I was aware of the struggle of lower caste people to have any sort of independent life…..and thus the strength of the Communist movement…..but not that things were still so problematical. Mark you, modern western societies seem to be building a caste system of their own….
I would have enjoyed the fiery food….but not, I think, Varkala itself.
Phil & Michaela
Varkala wasn’t bad…there’s something interesting about being in a holiday location where most of the holidaymakers are still in the own culture but letting their hair down a bit. Kerala food is amazingly tasty, packed with great flavours, but unless you ask for it to be toned down a bit, they’re too fiery to enjoy the flavours properly. You don’t have to be in India long to see that the caste system is alive and kicking, and a lot of it quite unpleasant.
WanderingCanadians
Sounds like a good time at God’s Own Country Kitchen. I’m disappointed that you didn’t share the video of Michaela’s great dance moves though!
Phil & Michaela
Ha, nope, she didn’t want that in the public domain!
Annie Berger
I’d never heard of Varkala before, so thanks for the intro! Sounds like a glorious spot with the Red Cliffs, good food and drinks at God’s Country Kitchen, and relaxing vibes!
Phil & Michaela
Not exactly a cultural stay I guess but it was fun and it was interesting to observe Indians on vacation
Forestwood
I looked up Verkala. It is a oh wow moment to think of Indian beach ‘resorts,’ other than Goa, but there’s lots of coastline, so why not?
Phil & Michaela
Varkala is very popular with vacationing Indians!
Forestwood
The spicy food sounds way too hot for me, but ethnic Indians do seem to prefer it that way. I suppose their tolerance builds up over time and they need more and more spiciness to taste it? The book you read sounds interesting and also that the lower castes see that as a panacea for social repression. The highest number of immigrants to Australia come from India. Although they live and work in the so-called egalitarian nation of Australia, the caste system continues. In business and even in academia, where you might imagine intelligent thought might reframe those age-old social expectations.
I imagine Verkala was pretty humid as well as hot?
Phil & Michaela
No not at all, there’s a genuine cooling sea breeze which is very pleasant, not humid at all. Hot during the day, cooler in the evenings. The book was quite brutal in places, detailing ways in which the Government have tried to silence the communist movement. Interesting read.