Getting It Wrong In Bolivia: Copacabana, The Sun & The Moon
The cross-border bus is only a few minutes late leaving Puno, skirting Titicaca’s shores and trundling towards a checkpoint which turns out to be one of our easier border crossings, just two quick passport stamps and we’re through into Bolivia. Our next destination appears below us down the steep hillside, nestled attractively around a lakeside bay, greeting us with the most biting icy wind we have so far felt on this trip. This is going to need a ramp-up in sensible clothing.
The town’s name is Copacabana, our home here is called Sultan Suites, which leaves Barry Manilow and Dire Straits competing for occupation of my ear worm. Our accommodation is exceptionally lovely with fabulous views of the town and the bay from our vantage point on the hill, but wow is it cold. Our hosts provide an advice sheet which starts with the words, “In the cold of the Antiplano….”, and also provide wall radiators with pre-set overnight heating, hot water bottles for the bed and, best of all, a magnificently efficient log burner and a constantly replenished stock of bone dry firewood. There’s a strong message here: Copacabana in June is C-O-L-D.
For just about every visitor to Copacabana the main draw is the offshore islands which are home to fascinating archeological sites and magnificent legends, primarily Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna. In the spiritual beliefs of the Incas, the sun and the moon were created on these islands before being set free into the skies, having been formulated in deep crevices between the islands’ rocks.
Everything we had read before coming here suggested that it was a piece of cake to find a boat tour which takes in the three most popular destinations: Luna, plus both the north and south ends of Sol, there being significant sites at all three. For “piece of cake”, read “no such thing”, unless you’re prepared to shell out a week’s dinner money for a private boat. We’re not. Or you can hike the three hours from north to south and reunite with your boat but then this option misses out Luna. So we have a choice: it’s either Luna plus Sol Norte or Luna plus Sol Sur. We opt, for no reason other than the travellers’ equivalent of coin tossing, for Luna plus Sol Sur.
Down at the embarkation point next morning, the wind has ramped up and somehow obtained icy needles which are capable of piercing both clothing and rib cage. Good job then that we have some entertainment to keep us occupied: several boats are arriving from the islands or other towns, delivering a whole host of market traders and their goods. It’s a fascinating hive of activity as the goods wrapped in colourful slings are brought ashore, one which gives Michaela ample opportunity for some great people photos.
It soon becomes obvious that this boat trip is more of a shuttle service than a guided tour, in that, the ferry man on board doesn’t offer any information apart from the occasional quickfire Spanish sentence and El Capitan says nothing at all. Titicaca is in a bad mood today, too, its surface as turbulent as a choppy sea and our small boat is tossed and bounced in what we hope is the direction of Isla de la Luna. When we finally get there, El Capitan has real difficulty bringing the boat alongside the jetty in the bouncing waves, aborting at least five attempts before a bevy of islanders grab the various ropes to try to hoist us home.
They’re still struggling to bring the craft under control when El Capitan decides they need another hand and leaps across the troubled waters to the jetty, meaning we now have no one on board capable of driving the boat. If they drop the ropes now, we’re in shit street! Thankfully no such disaster occurs, but the fun isn’t quite over, as we all now have to jump the distance between rocking boat and writhing wooden jetty and hope that Titicaca shows mercy.
Apart from having to do the reverse leap of faith an hour later, the visit to Isla de la Luna turns out to be the highlight of the day. The ancient temple is a haunting place, lofted above the blue of the lake and concealing intriguing mysteries from across the centuries. Originally a temple built on the site where Inca deity Viracocha first commanded the moon to rise, the 20th century saw the remains remodelled as a prison, first for POWs and later for political dissidents. During this period it became known as the “Alcatraz of the Andes” given that the freezing waters made escape by swimming impossible.
Clambering around its chambers and between its walls, Luna is far more reminiscent of Inca sites than it is of any prison, let alone Alcatraz. There is a mystique here similar to those sites in the Sacred Valley.
As it happens, the day goes downhill from here. Unfortunately the equation between the boat’s windows and its seats means that unless you’re about six foot six you can see only sky when seated, except for fleeting glimpses of islands in those moments when the boat is thrown sideways by the waves. Another hour bouncing on the choppy waters brings us to the south side of Isla del Sol, and we can only conclude that we should have chosen the north end. Underwhelming is an understatement. There’s a few archways remaining from an Inca site but they are nowadays dominated by the hotel which is next to it and is about ten times its size.
But there’s more – apparently up the steep flight of wonky stone steps there’s a fountain or spring of sacred water. We clamber up, only to find the least sacred looking thing you can imagine. You’re telling me that we’ve climbed 300 steps in high altitude to look at a shoot of water coming from two pipes? Seriously?! Obviously we should have taken the hike option after all, but three hours hiking in this icy wind….hmmm.
Disappointed that we seemingly chose the wrong option on the famed and revered Isla del Sol, we console ourselves that at least we’re heading back to Copacabana now. Except we’re not. Unexpectedly, to us anyway, we call in at a beach. A beach. It’s about 6 degrees centigrade, there’s a wind with icy needles in it, everyone’s in big coats and alpaca hats and they’ve brought us to a bloody beach. WTF??! Not one of the operators we spoke to yesterday mentioned such a stop, yet about half of our fellow passengers seem to be expecting it, because they order a hefty meal from the beach restaurant and tuck in.
Beach bar lady seems surprised that we and a few others decline to partake, and our next challenge is to kick our heels while the diners gorge themselves on food cooked in an environment which reeks horribly of weeks-old cooking oil. Smells like a KFC on a bad day. The journey home is tortuously slow – we suspect El Capitan used excess fuel fighting the morning swell and is now trying to redress the balance, and for the last half hour the welcoming shoreline of Copacabana seems to tease but not get any closer. It’s just as well that the windows are closed because my Will To Live makes several attempts to leap out and disappear under Titicaca’s freezing waters.
It’s still cold but the wind has gone now. Next morning Copacabana looks serene, basking in that uniquely crisp sunlight which zero degrees brings, Titicaca now flat calm having had a day pretending she was an ocean. The blues of the sky and water are quite beautiful, the town proud of its enviable location. Even by mid morning there is a delicious warmth in the sun which competes manfully with the perpetually cold air.
Down in the sunshine at the waterfront, strange things are stirring: boats are being cleaned, an inflatable dragon and inflatable octopus are being tied to speedboats, a parking attendant has appeared where previously there wasn’t one. From all this activity it’s obvious that Copacabana is a Sunday getaway for city dwellers, and as the day unfolds the streets fill with parked buses and collectivos and happy day trippers filling the town with jollity. Maybe it’s just Sundays, or maybe it happens on Saturdays too – we wouldn’t know because we were standing around on a windswept beach in a biting wind.
Copacabana is a cool little place, though we’re still wondering when and how so many tidy well presented eateries get enough business to survive. At what time of year would there be enough custom to go round? – it’s certainly not the chilly evenings of June, as most are nigh on empty with front of house men clamouring for what limited business is available.
A beautiful but oversized church towers over the lively plaza up the hill from the lake, market stalls do brisk business, and around the town there are several examples of quality accommodation for visitors, including ours. Our terrific apartment with its wonderful views has a glass cupola through which, at about 4am, the moon illuminates our bed and half of the room. Despite the early hour it’s a cracking thing to wake up to, infinitely more romantic than an alarm clock.
Copacabana is pleasing and attractive, but unfortunately we will be leaving with a heavy feeling that we missed something. Everyone talks about Isla del Sol, everyone asks if you’re going there, it’s synonymous with the town and is a significant destination, but somehow we didn’t get to see why. We don’t normally get it wrong and miss out, but we definitely did in Copacabana.
Oh well, let’s head to La Paz. At least I can get that bloody Barry Manilow song out of my head now.
38 Comments
Eha Carr
You have just made ME feel cold reading this inside my studio at midday! OK – it IS winter here also and I did open my window to let some fresh air in, but 🙂 ! Looking at the obviously cold water I don’t know whether, in the aftermath, to have a little giggle at your day or feel with you and for you! The place looks scenically inviting, your accommodation which I saw on IG, is absolutely beautiful . . . but there are the few others 🙁 ! Methinks my eyes are more on the fashions of the local ladies than on the scenery – ‘Men’s’ hats, huge, huge skirts on ‘well-built’ bodies and almost nought on their feet . . . differences one notes. OK, you have me singing Barry Manilow now also – sincerely hoping that you are consuming a fair amount of vitamin C! Best for the next section . . . and you still have a fair amount of ‘high country’ to go!
Phil & Michaela
Ah well a giggle was the intention! The skirts are extremely wide, made so (to some degree) by a bustle type structure which fans out the top of the skirt….but indeed many ladies are wide hipped too. I don’t know how they keep those feet warm though…
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Sorry to hear that you didn’t have a particularly good visit to Copacabana. Having lived in the subarctic, I know about the cold and the importance of having the right clothes for the job, but when it’s cold AND the food smells like sour KFC, then you have to strongly remind yourself that the joys of travel far outweigh the drawbacks!
Phil & Michaela
Oh yes, it was frustrating but you have to see the funny side, always!
Monkey's Tale
I’m sea sick just reading this. What an awful turn of bad luck. I can’t remember which Sol island we stayed on, but it was unremarkable too so likely the same one you went to. It was pre-blogging, so I’d have to go back and read an old journal to see. Hope La Paz treats you better. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Well we enjoyed Copacabana, just the trip was a bit flat. Unremarkable is the word 😂
MrsWayfarer
Thank you for letting me tag along. Reading, I imagine myself in the cold and would have been in a dilemma deciding between staying in the room with the gorgeous view or seeing Isla del Sol with my own eyes.
Phil & Michaela
Ah well, tempting as staying in might be, you have to get out and see these places.
Miriam
Brrrrrr. And I thought it was cold here!
Phil & Michaela
It’s strange being in a place like this, where the heat of the sun and the cold air are present at the same time…
Miriam
How invigorating!
restlessjo
I’m reading this for ‘light relief’ and dealing with the situation of a close friend, paralysed by a stroke, Phil, so normally I’d have felt sorry for you. It’s well told and you can keep that particular boat trip to yourselves. Onwards! With hope xx
Phil & Michaela
Oh that’s awful, Jo, so sorry 😞. Our trip wasn’t so bad really, just wanted to bring a bit of humour to a frustrating day.
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
Well, your accommodations look nice, the photos of the people are great, and your sense of humor is intact.
Phil & Michaela
Oh yes, an intact sense of humour is an essential traveller’s quality, wouldn’t you say 😁
Toonsarah
Every trip has its less successful days and at least you got something out of this one, as the Isla de la Luna looks well worth visiting. But a beach stop in that weather sounds crazy! We’re currently considering Bolivia and I’ve seen June mentioned as a good month to visit – would you disagree?
Despite the disappointing boat trip you certainly found a great place to stay and got some excellent people photos, especially the little girl (I assume) wrapped up in pink 🙂
Phil & Michaela
What a “people shot” opportunity that was! To answer your question based on our first eight days….well, the light is perfect for photography, you would love that. The cold clear weather brings such a sharp focus. Choice of clothing is fun – honestly, it’s hot enough at times to just wear T-shirt, then suddenly it dips to almost zero if a cloud appears. Bring layers which are easy to carry when not being worn. But….no rain, clear skies, cold nights….ain’t so bad!
Toonsarah
Sounds good to me – after all, I hate being too hot (e.g. sweltering in 34 C in London yesterday!)
Lookoom
I’ve also come across those chilling suns on the Andes Altiplano, but at least the light is clean and crisp, making everything look beautiful.
Phil & Michaela
Oh absolutely, such a wonderful light from dawn till dusk, pretty much.
Heyjude
It might have been cold, it might have been disappointing, but your accommodation looks fabulous and Michaela’s photos are fantastic! Beautiful clear air and if you hadn’t told me it was cold I would have thought the opposite.
Phil & Michaela
I wondered whether someone would make that point, because when I looked back at Michaela’s photos it looked like warm weather…until you see the clothing. Zero degrees plus cloudless skies makes for perfect clarity!
WanderingCanadians
The view from your apartment is nice. Michaela’s pictures of the people all bundled up are fantastic and I appreciate being able to people watch too. Bummer that you weren’t able to visit all three destinations and that the south side of Isla del Sol was a let down.
Phil & Michaela
Copacabana was certainly a nice enough town, just not the greatest trip out!
Annie Berger
Looking at your trip to Isla de Sol from the glass half-full angle, you’ve had very few misses in your travels from what I can remember, Phil. At least you only ‘lost’ a short time out of your life, although that boar ride might have made it a lot shorter! Looking forward to seeing what you think of La Paz.
Phil & Michaela
Oh absolutely. The post was intended to be amusing, not complaining, which I hope came over – after all, Michaela and I are pretty good at seeing the funny side of most things. Maybe my humour is sometimes a bit too British 😂. You’re right, we are very lucky on our travels, the good outweighs the not so good by a considerable amount!
Annie Berger
My thought is that if we can’t laugh at ourselves and at what happens on our adventures, we might as well stay at homes!
Annie Berger
At home!
Phil & Michaela
Could not agree more!
wetanddustyroads
Love your accommodation, I can see it’s really cold (that little girl in pink clothes and a blanket has the right idea). The boat trip doesn’t sound like fun (at least not for me who doesn’t have sea legs). Sometimes a trip works out and sometimes it doesn’t – that’s just how it is when you travel (sometimes you just hope for the best … or go to the next place 😉).
Phil & Michaela
And always remember to see the funny side hey
grandmisadventures
Beautiful pictures of the area, the people, and the history. Seems Bolivia is off to a good start
Phil & Michaela
It’s gonna have to go some to beat Peru, but so far we are definitely wowed!
Christie
Brrr.. I can see even the natives are cold, bundled up to their nose. I’ll keep that in mind for future plans!
Phil & Michaela
It’s got an awful lot colder since!
Christie
If I could only send a bit of the heat we’ve had these days!! haha..
leightontravels
What a fascinating place, I could feel the bite of the cold leap off the screen and the frustration of things not going your way. Sometimes them’s the breaks and you get more Barry Manilow than Dire Straits. Still, you rolled with it well as you always do. Some fabulous scenery and people shots here, particularly the adorable little keeping warm girl. Your accommodation looked amazing. seriously good views.
Phil & Michaela
Nothing wrong with the town itself, cool place on the edge of the famous lake.