Exploring The Algarve In High Season: Olhão, Tavira And Faro
The good news starts as soon as we arrive in Olhão. There, in the uppermost in-tray of the offices of our corporate airbnb host, is the Jiffy envelope I’ve been hoping to see, the one containing my replacement debit and credit cards and driving licence, all present and correct and ready for action. End of saga, at last. Incident forgotten.
Having signed off in Carvoeiro with a proper Brits-on-holiday night, dancing to a very decent live band in the main square, we head along the Algarve coast to Olhão, a place recommended to us by, amongst others, Michaela’s Mum. Carvoeiro, holiday hotspot as it is, has been fun and we’ve enjoyed the feeling of an old fashioned few-days-on-holiday a lot more than we thought we would. It was fitting therefore to end it with a bit of wine infused frivolity in the square.
Still smiling about the safe delivery of those documents, our first wander down to the waterfront at Olhão reveals a place with that unmistakably restful feeling that calm water brings. This may be the same heaving Atlantic which brought fun and games in Carvoeiro but here in Olhão the protection afforded by offshore barrier islands creates a calm and peaceful harbour with a distinct estuary feel to it.
Island ferries chug in and out, water taxis belt in at unreasonable speed, jet skis send surf plumes skywards and anglers with weathered faces scowl when a wake disturbs their patience. Olhão harbour is a busy place, the town likewise, yet amongst all the activity it’s the calm waters which set the tone. We relax and watch the sunset with a Super Bock which seems to taste twice as good as normal in a setting such as this.
Trips out to the islands on different days serve as a reminder, if we needed it, that this is the height of the holiday season in the Algarve – queue for ferry tickets, queue for the ferry itself, squeeze into a space on the packed boat, avoid the beaches nearest the ferry point and walk a couple of kilometres to shake off the crowds. It’s worth it, because of course, the beaches of the Algarve are sublime, soft powdery sand and clear blue seas which now have more than a hint of warmth as we move on from the chillier parts of the Atlantic to here, where the water is, we’re told, 24 degrees.
Friday sees us visit the island of Armona, Monday the neighbouring island of Culatra, specifically to Praia do Farol – although for some reason it’s known as Ilha Farol even though it’s on the same island. The island beaches are beautiful, each of a slightly different character, all busy but all enjoyable.
The town centre of Olhão retains much charm despite its popularity, and with our current mindset of being “travellers on holiday”, the atmosphere along the waterfront street known as Avenida 5 Outubro is buzzing at each of the many restaurants. Taking a moonlit stroll alongside the calm waters is immensely pleasurable even if we are just two of many doing the same.
We’re touching 40C at some point on most days just now. The gentle breezes of early morning and late evening disappear during the middle of the day, when only at the water’s edge is there a hint of relief. Night brings only fitful sleep – the “AC” in our apartment is no more than a combination of ceiling and portable fans summarily unable to cope, made more difficult when one fan gives up the ghost and stops working altogether. Michaela suggests that we go up and doze on the roof where the midnight air is cooler than the oppressive indoors. It’s gone 4am before we awake and make our way to bed….
Murals of Olhão
Meeting up with fellow bloggers is always entertaining, turning a virtual friendship into a personal one, but with an added bonus if you’re lucky enough to meet them on their home territory. So it is when we have the real pleasure of a day in the delightful company of Jo and Mick who take time to show us around their lovely home town of Tavira. As well as seeing the best that Tavira has to offer – except for those places with doors locked due to this being the Day Of Assumption holiday weekend – the four of us take lunch, of course we do, in a fabulous little off-the-trail place which only locals like our hosts would know about. Ah, the benefit of insider knowledge!
Like Olhão, Tavira is protected by barrier islands, actually even more so, the pretty town itself straddling the river which then winds out past the sandy islands. Our loop around town ends with a ferry ride out on to one of the islands where the beaches are under what we might call heavy usage. Tavira and Olhão are lovely towns and between them they undoubtedly demonstrate the attraction of expat relocation to the Algarve.
So with Olhão and Tavira suitably explored we complete the trio with a visit to Faro, main city of the Algarve, for a wander around the old town and a bit of individual indulgence. By indulgence, we mean Michaela wiles away a couple of hours in retail therapy while I take in a football match, something I always enjoy on our travels – in fact I’ve attended domestic matches in 13 different countries so far. This one sees the local team Farense, relegated this summer from the Primeira Liga and fancied for a quick return, unexpectedly suffer a 0-3 defeat to Torreense, a result which leaves the local fanbase decidedly grumpy. Michaela’s retail therapy is only marginally more successful and she’s only augmented her wardrobe by a single pair of shorts.
Olhão has a well deserved reputation for the quality of its seafood, a reputation which we’ve properly put to the test here. Right at the beginning of our time, Isabel at our host company had told us that Olhão is the real home of the Algarve speciality, cataplana. Both this and the hanging seafood/meat kebabs were as good as we wanted them to be, equalled in quality by prawns (shrimps) in a sauce of orange and chilli – don’t knock it till you try it, it’s amazing!
And so it’s time to depart Olhão, depart the Algarve and, after five weeks in the country, depart Portugal. It’s been a great tour through some truly beautiful locations and a good insight into some of what Portugal has to offer, a stimulating and enjoyable journey with so many delights.
From here we start a lengthy multi stage journey of at least 25 hours with first a short stretch on foot, then a train, followed by bus, flight, taxi, a long boat journey and then, for the final leg, that ever reliable mode of transport, the don’t-know-what-yet. If all goes according to plan, then by the time those 25 hours are done we will be using a different language and increasing our intake of pasta. We’re heading eastwards to Mostar. The slow way.
31 Comments
Heyjude
You have just made Portugal appear so much more tempting. I really must get over to Tavira and meet Jo again (we met up in Edinburgh in 2016 – can’t believe it was so long ago). Out of the three – Olhao, Tavira and Faro which one would you pick to stay in? And most definitely not in summer, those temperatures would kill me.
Phil & Michaela
Hi Jude, absolutely no hesitation in answering that question.. Olhão for sure. Tavira is lovely too but we found a special something in Olhão. Maybe it’s because the beaches are a boat ride away. Even in the height of the season the atmosphere at the waterfront is lovely, very relaxing.
restlessjo
Olhao is much flatter and would suit you and David better. You have easy train connections in both directions xx
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
It looks as though your “holiday from travelling” worked incredibly well with delicious food, meeting up with blogging friends and also some beach time. Our temperatures here frequently reach 38-40 (we’re expecting a run of that over the next week) but our ac is very efficient, thankfully! I just don’t handle those temperatures as well as I used to (my interior temperature controls seem to be suffering from age-related malfunctioning) and I tend to live life in the mornings and evenings. Looking forward to hearing about Mostar. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
Ha, I know what you mean….but we’re pretty good with hot temperatures, even humidity, during the day, but if we’re sweltering at night it’s a different ball game!
Eha Carr
To a very practical me, the ‘smiling’ part of this post is the fact you are again in possession of all needed papers – glory be > I would have felt so insecure during the interim days. Thank you for all the photography of three towns I had not even heard of . . . love the murals and the ‘street furniture’ and ‘bloggers meeting’ . . but most of all Michaela dancing methinks . . when this came up on Insta I was nearly dancing with her . . , 🙂 !
Phil & Michaela
It was a bit of a fun night, Eha, and Portugal really does have a wealth of lovely places.
Miriam
Looks like a fabulous time was had in a beautiful place, even despite those almighty hot temperatures. And it’s always a bonus when we meet up with blogging friends. Keep enjoying!
Phil & Michaela
I am sure we will, but we have to admit that we’re starting to want to break free of the crowds.
restlessjo
I’m travelling north as I read this. A UK Bank Holiday looms under grey skies. It’s a very different world from my old home to sunny Tavira. Summer is too hot and busy but I’d struggle to switch back. The roads are crowded in the UK and the cities less than clean. We enjoyed showing you around and you know I’d be happy to travel in your backpack for the next lap. Have fun, lovely people xx
Phil & Michaela
Yep, I’m afraid there isn’t much about the UK that we miss while travelling these days. Thank you again for our day in Tavira, so enjoyable x
Anabel @ The Glasgow Gallivanter
How nice to meet up with Jo and Mick! You all look very happy.
Phil & Michaela
It was a lovely day and really cool to be shown around by someone who knows!
Toonsarah
Olhão looks lovely, though too hot for me at this time of year ☀️ And as you know, I envy you the meet-up with Jo having missed her on our visit to Faro a few years ago. Maybe one day …
Phil & Michaela
Yes it was so good to meet, and to be shown around Tavira.
WanderingCanadians
Glad to hear you finally got your replacement documents. How fun to meet up with another fellow blogger. Despite the crowds sounds like you enjoyed the sights and food. Love those boat shaped planters. Safe travels on the next part of your journey!
Phil & Michaela
Definitely enjoyed the Algarve despite being there in high season!
Monkey's Tale
I’ve had the lovely Jo and Mick tour of Tavira, glad they could show you the sites too. We had a similar bnb in Yerevan where the ac was a fan, but we had no rooftop to escape to. At 45C, after one night we booked another place instead. I see in Instagram that you’ve moved on, waiting to read about Sardinia. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Hard work when it’s that hot at night, isn’t it. Yep we are in or on Sardinia now, where the Mistral is keeping things cooler.
Annie Berger
Five fabulous weeks in Portugal sounds heavenly even if the hometown team lost on your final day. Great shots of each town’s harbour, beaches, restaurants, and dinners. Let the next part of the adventure begin!
Phil & Michaela
Yes it’s been good, Annie. Ended in the most heavily touristed bit but nevertheless saw lots of a lovely country.
The Flask Half Full
One of your superpowers must be withstanding extreme heat – Portugal in the throes of summer?!?!?! I love a good street mural – those are wonderful. And I love the caipirinha shirt, btw. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
We really don’t mind the heat – except at night if the accommodation isn’t well ventilated. Bought the T shirt at Iguazu so it’s a genuine 😂
MrsWayfarer
What a dreamy place, and fantastic street art! Portugal looks absolutely stunning.
Phil & Michaela
It’s been terrific, so many lovely places
Alison
Beautiful photos. Loving the murals and street furniture. How nice that you met up with Jo. My brother is currently working in Faro and was hoping to get to see him this year but with more awful news overseas travel is not possible at the moment.
Phil & Michaela
Oh dear that doesn’t sound good, Ali. You’re not having a good time just now ☹️
grandmisadventures
What a lovely corner of Portugal- made all the better with great food and meeting up with blogging friends 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Some lovely places despite the crowds!
wetanddustyroads
Your late evening and sunset photos are always so beautiful – they usually make me wish I was there! And Olhão is yet another beautiful place (love that street furniture). Oh, 40C is HOT (especially at night when there is no proper AC). And what a nice surprise to see you together with Jo and her husband – the blogging world is not as big as one sometimes thinks it is 😊. You’ve shown a beautiful side of Portugal … it’s probably one of the few countries we wouldn’t mind visiting for a second time.
Phil & Michaela
Definitely worth exploring different parts, Corna…some very lovely places!