Around Northern Portugal: Lamego-Amarante-Braga
As you approach Amarante by the road from the main A4 motorway, you could be forgiven for wondering what all the fuss is about, for at this point the absolutely lovely old town is hidden behind an array of modern structures, traffic islands, concrete and steel. Walk no more than 200 yards from the bus station, turn in to Rua 31 Janeiro, pass the lively traditional tabernas and head towards the São Gonçalo Bridge, and yet another enchanting town quickly reveals itself. And oh wow is it lovely.
Almost impossibly lovely. The Rio Tamega flows slowly through the centre – serenely slowly, except now and again when it skips over rocks just to make itself even more attractive. The two halves of the town connect via the ancient bridge, the elegant cathedral is the star amongst a whole gamut of beautiful old buildings where baroque meets majestic, while all around Amarante positively glows in the knowledge that it is beautiful.
Just downstream from the São Gonçalo, there’s a weir where the river level drops about six feet: whoever it was who decided to construct a lengthy stepping stone crossing here was an inspired individual who deserves a medal. Crossing the river, glasslike surface one side, cascading white water the other, is almost as satisfying as the vinho verde at the bar on the other side.
Amarante is seriously pretty, one of those sumptuous places which just invites the visitor to stop and stare at regular intervals, so of course, the way life is, it is inevitable that there must be something to detract from its beauty. So, how about the fact that the whole town seems to be obsessed with eating a cake shaped like a penis complete with testicles? No, really, I kid you not. Apparently, Amarante’s patron saint is known for his matchmaking abilities, so consequently the town is reputedly a source of luck in love, and of fertility. To celebrate this, it is the done thing to buy, and present to a lady, a “bolos de São Gonçalo”, surely the most brazenly phallic culinary creation on the planet. I mean, ladies, can you imagine devouring one of these with even a modicum of elegance…..
Away from this utterly bizarre predilection, Amarante is an amazingly lovely town, so lovely that its residents seem to be in a perpetual state of contentment, at any time of day. You will see old guys quaffing wine straight after breakfast, lovers of all ages kissing on the bridge (we did it too, Amarante does this to you!), and families with kids having fun on roller skates just before midnight. What you won’t see is anyone in a hurry. Ever.
Pleasing aromas drift from those traditional bakeries, chatter and laughter and the clinking of glasses sneaks out of every taberna, verandas on the back of restaurants enable dinner above the river. Baroque towers climb the hill from the Tamega, narrow streets squeeze between grand buildings, and, as the evening progresses, bats replace swifts swooping over the water. Amarante, we love you. But we’re moving on, there’s more of Portugal to see.
An hour or so north of Amarante is the final call of this part of our tour, the elegant and historical city of Braga. Despite its sprawling outer reaches, almost everything there is to see in Braga – and there’s plenty – is confined to the compact old town. There is, for a start, the country’s oldest cathedral with its magnificent interior, where on our first walk we are denied entry because a significant event, the inauguration of a new bishop, is underway. First day in a new job for a bishop. He probably doesn’t need gawping tourists today, so our exclusion is more than reasonable. Good luck in the new job, bish.
The old town is yet again full of wonderful and majestic old buildings, baroque churches, tiled palaces and even a delightful archway, the remains of a city gate. But as well as the sumptuous architecture, Braga is probably the most colourful and beautifully tended garden city we’ve ever seen: the wide avenidas displaying huge beds of colour, every section of land and every spare corner ablaze with bloom. Pride of place in this haven of hues probably goes to Avenida Liberdade and Jardim Santa Barbara, both adding real joy to this already attractive city. Braga must have a substantial gardening budget.
Yet away from the indisputably lovely centre, the main attraction of Braga is a bus ride out of town, the famed Bom Jesus do Monte, destination for inquisitive tourists and devout pilgrims alike. The much photographed approach up the many hundreds of steps is punctuated not by playful fountains as it was in Lamego, but by unashamedly brutal representations of the tortured journey of Jesus towards his crucifixion at Golgotha.
Of course there is a depiction of the last supper, but here on the ascent to Bom Jesus, the supper is no more than the opening lines of a brutal story. Beaten, spat upon, wearing a crown of thorns, forced to carry the heavy cross which will see his demise, nails being hammered through the hands, Jesus’ last voyage is told here in graphic detail, culminating in his removal from the crucifix, bleeding and seemingly defeated. Whatever your beliefs or otherwise, these are amongst the most graphic representations possible of this part of that story.
Yet, ahead, there is joy. Reaching the top, the gardens around Bom Jesus are even more sumptuous than those in town, impeccably manicured and irresistibly pleasing on the eye. Inside the shrine itself, a spectacular and unusual altar, fabricated in 3D on the rear wall, once again graphically depicts the crucifixion. Little wonder Bom Jesus is a pilgrimage destination, this place is positively stirring, even to non religious types like us.
Having climbed the substantial approach on foot, we descend via the funicular railway, built in 1886 and seemingly the oldest funicular in the world which is driven by water balancing. In other words, the carriage at the top has its tank underbelly filled with water, making it heavier than the car at the bottom. Release the brake on the top car, and the heavier of the two cars descends, pulling the lighter carriage up from the other end. Once at the bottom, the tank is emptied while the car now at the top is filled, thus reversing the balance, and the whole process is repeated. Ingenious, huh.
Several people had told us that, whilst not matching the charm of rural towns, Braga is the most beautiful of Portugal’s larger cities. We have seen no reason to argue with that sentiment: the architectural beauty of its buildings is magnificently enhanced by those floral displays, with great results.
There is no question that our tour of these northern towns of Portugal has been totally rewarding, each one has been a success individually, the cumulative effect absolutely stimulating. Next we head south, beginning in earnest our journey towards the Mediterranean. There’s a train to catch tomorrow….time, once again, to move on.
42 Comments
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
A gorgeous collection of pictures of Amarante and Braga. Amarante seems too good to be true – despite the penis-shaped confections – and Braga completely lovely for a larger city. Good that there were no pickpockets lingering around! Have you encountered any of the anti-tourism backlash that I have read about here?
Phil & Michaela
None at all, Lynette. But actually we hadn’t heard anything of that type regarding Portugal, only Spain.
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Good to hear. Here’s an article about the protests – what we’re hearing here, anyway. Cheers
https://www.theglobeandmail.com/gift/1a1cc5f085e94510f170565045af9c74cf07dd767d0887d7a4c90bd11cac6482/N4V7IR25BZB2JI6DKDFNFKBJO4
restlessjo
I note that it mentions Lisbon at the bottom of the article, Lynette, but I’m not aware of anything happening there. Nowhere is more tourist orientated than my Algarve but in general it’s for 2 months in summer and is a huge part of the economy. Harder for big cities that have year round tourism. Banning cruise ships might be a useful contribution, but where there’s a demand there’s usually a supplier.
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
We have a lot of tourism here as well (although the numbers are somewhat lower in winter, it’s year-round because of skiing in the nearby mountains) and this year more than ever since Canadians are boycotting the U.S. It contributes millions to our local economy.
But there are mitigations in place. Steps have been taken here to prevent such companies as Airbnb from taking residential properties (they’re basically banned in the city as are short-term rentals unless very specific requirements are met) and there are other protocols in place to ensure as far as possible that everyone benefits.
We’re smaller too and as you mention it’s easier for us. It sounds to me however that some straightforward legislation around all that demand and supply would make life a lot more comfortable for everyone but of course greed can be hard to stop once it gets a foothold.
wetanddustyroads
Oh, the bridges in Portugal are incredibly beautiful – even the stepping stone bridge is lovely. Amarante (with the bridges and that cake🙈) and Braga (with its stunning cathedral and colourful garden) plus the fact that no one is in a hurry … sound to me like excellent places to visit!
Phil & Michaela
They really are, Corna. Such lovely towns.
restlessjo
I will come back later for a closer look but I’m following in your footsteps as closely as I can. Where did you stay in Amarante? We were in an old hotel overlooking the river. It’s a good thing we were staying a couple of nights because we were blocked in by a couple dozen rally cars who were staging a heat from the village. The joint was jumping but we took ourselves off on a couple of lovely walks in the daytime and enjoyed the fun on a night.
We were in Braga for Easter, in an apartment overlooking the Cathedral. Highly charged emotional stuff, though we’re not religious either. A highlight was watching them drop mini Easter eggs in the hedges in the Santa Barbara gardens. 5 minutes later a group of school kids were shepherded in to start the hunt. Happy days xx
Phil & Michaela
Stayed in an apartment right on 31 Janeiro, opposite side to the river. Both were such lovely places, but Amarante really is special.
Toonsarah
Both Amarante and Braga look beautiful! But surely the question on everyone’s lips is, ‘Did you buy Michaela a bolos de São Gonçalo?’ 😆
Heyjude
I’m glad you asked the question 😈
Phil & Michaela
Michaela isn’t a great cake fan….if it had been a giant pork scratching the answer may have been different 😂. She’s from Birmingham, you see 😂😂
Toonsarah
🤣🤣🤣
Phil & Michaela
I offered. She demurred. 😂😂
Heyjude
Just looking at those steps makes my knees ache! Amarante and Braga do look lovely though I am not so fond of the formal municipal planting, colourful though it is. I am fond of the tiled houses though.
Phil & Michaela
I know what you mean about regimented planting but it really does give Braga a big splash of colour. Both very lovely places.
Helen Devries
What lovely towns to visit….and to show us.
Any joy with the driving licence?
Phil & Michaela
The solution is hopefully in progress!
Eha Carr
Having been an avid gardener in my time love to see all the greenery in those two very interesting towns . . . like the look of Bom Jesus tho’ would not like to try climb to the top these days . . . was that a purple bougainvillea atop the funicular? Oh the cake – if tasty, pick it up, tear the long from the round and enjoy without a second thought 🙂 !!!
Phil & Michaela
Bougainvillea indeed, lots of it here in Portugal, very picturesque. Unlike the cake 😂
Monkey's Tale
We loved this area too, Portugal has so much to offer, but I’m not a fan of vinho verde, I prefer the reds. 😊 Maggie
Phil & Michaela
They’re all good! Reds is almost always my choice but I’m enjoying the whites with the fish and the verde with the sunshine!
MrsWayfarer
Thank you for giving me a glimpse of Amarante and Braga. I only wish I can see them with my own eyes someday.
Phil & Michaela
Definitely recommended, beautiful places
WanderingCanadians
Amarante looks very charming and pretty. I had to do a double take about the mention of the town’s obsession with eating cake shaped like a penis! Did you guys try one?
Phil & Michaela
We didn’t! What a strange tradition huh
Annie Berger
How is it. Phil, that only Portugal’s southern cities are all one reads about? Portugal has been the ‘it’ country to visit for a while, but not once have I read about beautiful Braga and the other northern towns that you again described so eloquently. Bom Jesus is another place I’d love to explore. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
Phil & Michaela
Definitely recommended, Annie. Beautiful scenery and seriously lovely towns.
Alison
So many reasons to visit Portugal. Everywhere looked beautiful. Strange way to depict a patron saint! The photos of Jesus were indeed graphic.
Phil & Michaela
As was the cake 😂. Yes, a really beautiful area.
grandmisadventures
This is such a beautiful town. Maybe the matchmaking is not so much due to the saint but people wander through here and fall in love with the city and then fall in love with their companion.
Phil & Michaela
Maybe…but the cake is still seriously weird!
Image Earth Travel
Lovely photos! Portugal is a special destination with wonderful architecture, locals, and food!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you – the northern towns really were lovely places in beautiful settings.
The Flask Half Full
It was in Amarante that I found a bottle (the only bottle I saw outside of the monastery) of the monastic liquor, Singeverga. Did you go inside the São Gonçalo church and rub São Gonçalo’s nose like the locals? 😉
Phil & Michaela
Nope. After seeing which body part they based their cakes on I stayed well away from physical contact of any kind 😂
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderersl
This is fantastic. Great information and post. These areas are charming. Must visit. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
Lovely, lovely towns – very much recommended!
Lookoom
From its layout and perspective, it is clear that the construction of Braga was ordered by a powerful authority capable of imposing such constraints on the city. The result is spectacular.
Phil & Michaela
Very attractive city
saltofportugal
Beautiful photos!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you – beautiful cities!