A Medina For The 21st Century: Notes From Doha
A whole host of playful and inventive architectural minds must have been let loose in Doha and granted the freedom to create the spectacle which the city now is: an astonishing environment where its ultra modern districts sparkle with breathtaking space age buildings which thrill, deceive and impress all in one go. It’s a futuristic skyline which must surely be up there with the most stunning in the world – and there’s more than one such skyline in this city. Astonishing, gigantic, amusing, inspired: everything is here.
The area known as West Bay boasts skyscrapers in cylinders, pyramids and twisted shapes of irregular lines. Asymmetric floor levels taunt the eye as if modern day architects have thrown the craziness of Gaudi into a melting pot of contemporary design within which no idea is off the agenda.
Beyond West Bay along the Corniche is The Pearl Island, a completely man made offshore metropolis with another incredible skyline. A family entertainment building in the shape of an upturned parcel? You got it. Two tower blocks looking like the ones you build with playing cards, caught in the moment just before collapse when they seemingly defy gravity? Yep, they’re here too. Yet even the awesome sights of West Bay and The Pearl are usurped by Doha’s coup de grace, the twin hotel complex of the Lusail Tower, aka Moon Tower, which is so incredibly unique that we can’t stop gawping at it. Little wonder when it looks like this….
Doha just oozes amazing buildings and structures, yet there is equal joy to be found in the open spaces between, filled as they are with perfect manicured gardens, dancing fountains, curved walkways and rustling palm trees. The whole city feels spacious, uncramped, non-claustrophobic. It’s a joy to explore, a busy city where the air somehow manages to feel fresh and clean. Ah, so THIS is what a country with endless riches looks like, where innovation and improvisation are considered worthy of investment. The UK, by comparison, is light years behind countries like Qatar, so far behind that catching up must by now be an impossible dream. England will never look or feel like this.
Doha has seemingly achieved all of this – much of it apparently was done for the FIFA World Cup in 2022 – without losing its beating heart. Wander from the futuristic splendour across the street into Souq Waqif and there is absolutely no doubting whereabouts in the world you are. The tight alleys of the souq wind through jewellery sections, down clothing streets, past perfume shops to alcoves selling plastic buckets, spices, copper kitchenware. Around and outside the souq, East meets West with restaurants, cafes and coffee shops all bustling with activity and rammed with eager customers.
Originally an ancient Bedouin market dating from the 19th century, a major fire in 2003 ripped through Souq Waqif and necessitated extensive renovation. With commendable and inspired insight, the reconstruction of Souq Waqif involved completely demolishing everything built after 1950, alongside a policy of restoration of all older buildings with a brief to replicate the original construction methods. The result is a rather pleasing merger of the traditional (locals as well as tourists shop here) and the modern (where eateries and coffee houses thrive). It’s a 21st century medina in which traditions have endured.
We amble slowly along Al Ahmed Street. Clouds of sweet smelling shisha drift down the street, mingling with fragrances which delight, tease and entice, lifting the spirit to another level. A delicious smell of flatbreads warming over charcoal pushes through the fruity sweetness of shisha, then spices, some fresh and some rising from the pans in the heat of the kitchen, bring the next wave of pleasure. Garlic, cumin, cinnamon. Barbecued meat. As men in thawbs and ladies in abaya swoosh by, the scent of oudh perfumes the air around them…then it’s incense, or it’s fresh coffee, or it’s mint tea….until the delightful odour of warming flatbreads returns, soon once more pushed aside by the dreamy scents of shisha….
As much as the senses of sight and smell are bombarded, the ears are spared. There is a calm and relaxed feel about Doha which borders on peaceful – sure the cars hurtle down the ring roads and yes the streets are full of people, but there is a warm and slow paced atmosphere which brings its own karma.
Between the Corniche and West Bay on the gentle blue waters of the Persian Gulf, any number of wooden dhows bob on the water or wait for paying passengers, boats which have long since been made redundant from the role of searching for fish or the elusive pearls which once brought fortune and wealth to boat owners and divers alike. They’re only here for the tourists now, but the unmistakable shape of the dhows is an echo of Doha’s rich history, clashing markedly with the futuristic skyline beyond.
Clusters of passengers from the two colossal cruise ships which are docked at the port obediently follow their flag waving leaders across the square to the souk, too time constrained to give any business to the men waiting patiently on the dhows. We certainly do have time, squeeze some cash into the grateful hands of one skipper and chug across to the other side of the bay where we gaze up at the impossible towers glinting in the warm sunshine. The dhows have a new raison d’être.
Any great modern city will by definition have an accessible and efficient public transport system, and Doha has exactly that, with metro, tram and bus services in plentiful evidence. Prices are beyond reasonable: a day ticket for unlimited journeys on all three modes costs just £1.38 – well below 2 US dollars. And so we take the metro, then the bus, up to The Pearl.
Whoever conceived of The Pearl in the first place must have had a significant passion for Italy, for here amongst the gleaming towers lies a mini Venice complete with canals and Venetian designs, Italianate architecture and copious quantities of balconies and balustrades. Improbably, right in the centre of this creation, is a replica Rialto Bridge. Imitation is, we are told, the sincerest form of flattery. Be flattered, Venice.
Back at Souq Waqif, the sky has cast its desert sunset and darkness has fallen on the streets around the souk. In Al Ahmed Street, full of restaurants, Friday night brings out everyone from babes in arms to grandmothers, wandering from end to end of the atmospheric street in a mass of contented movement. It’s a Greek volta in an Arabic setting. Full of life, full of chatter.
Restaurants are doing brisk business, tables are at a premium. Everywhere we eat, the fare on offer is delicious, but then, isn’t Middle Eastern food always good. There is variety in the eateries, but all from this region: as well as Qatari you can enjoy Kuwaiti, Syrian, Persian, Iranian and Lebanese foods, to name just a few. Wherever we go, it’s absolutely delicious, and, in Al Ahmed Street at least, inexpensive – though of course the absence of alcohol helps to keep the cost down.
Breakfast at our “free” hotel is sumptuous too – ah yes, our free stopover has proved to be an amazing deal, a perfectly adequate and comfortable hotel right in the beating heart just a few minutes walk from Souq Waqif. We would have been happy with it even if we’d paid, to get it completely free has been …. well, brilliant.
Our second evening here is coming to a close. We emerge from the alleys of the souq, dodge the footballs of young boys playing in the square, pass the ever present flock of pigeons and head to the waterfront. Offset uplighters wash different colours over the pearl monument, the large hulk of the Museum of Islamic Art casts a looming shadow on to the waves. But everyone’s eyes look beyond these things and across the Gulf towards the stunning skyline of West Bay. After dark, its skyline of twisted and inspired towers are transformed into a blaze of projected colours, patterns and moving displays, each building now a giant screen. The vibrant colours reflect in the sea, scattering erratic vivid pathways across the bay. Just one more mesmerising scene. Doha, you really are something else.
There is yet more to tell of this city and all it has to offer, in our next post. Before then, a desert adventure awaits….
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35 Comments
Helen Devries
That opened my eyes wide!
Phil & Michaela
Interesting place, to say the least, Helen….oh, or did you mean the absence of alcohol
Helen Devries
The place must be good if it overcomes that!
Phil & Michaela
Indeed so!
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
First of all, I am relieved that the ‘free hotel’ is indeed free. Whew… it looks perfectly inhabitable. Love the unique skyline, but the Rialto Bridge blew me away. And, the food!! but, no alcohol. How long are you there?
Phil & Michaela
Arrived Wednesday, left Sunday. The whole city is a great experience Suzanne…really good.
Monkey's Tale
We had about 6 hours in Doha airport last year, but didn’t think of stretching that out to an overnight. It looks strangely intriguing with a remade souq, little Italy canals and modern downtown. I haven’t seen pictures of Lusail Tower before. What an interesting building that is! Maggie
Phil & Michaela
As impressive as Marina Bay Sands, I would say! It’s an intriguing city, Maggie, we’re very pleased that we did the stopover thing.
Steven and Annie Berger
Your pictures reminded me of seeing the skyline for the first time and being just so amazed, and it looks even more incredible now. No Lusail Tower or golden thumb when we were there. It makes our cities here in the US look so unimaginative.
The Museum of Islamic Art (inside and out) at the end of the corniche was one of the best we’d ever been in and of course our daytime “pearl” picture looks just like yours – with one slight difference!
As always, you paint a great picture with your descriptions. Thank you for bringing back great memories.
Stay safe, stay healthy.
Happy New Year.
Steve
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Steve! We really enjoyed our few days in Doha and it’s kind if whetted our appetite to see Dubai. There’s a lot to see and do!
Brian Tucker
Great but you photos still dont all show
Enjoy you trip
Briam
Phil & Michaela
Oh dear….I don’t know why that would be…
ehacarr
Am smiling and SO GLAD for your experiences. Thank you for the best and most comprehensive photo collection of Doha I have ever seen – the old and traditional next to the unbelievable new most people in the world do not even know exists. With your permission I shall repost to friends . . .
Phil & Michaela
Thank you so much for those comments and compliments….you definitely have our permission to repost. Will it be on your usual site?
ehacarr
I do not have a personal blog but repost to groups of basically ‘foodie’ friends around the world. Would love to show you but first have to find out your business email I was so thrilled by the thoroughness of your post that I have actually spent an hour finding out MORE
! Am just learning about the Katara Towers – had no idea that enclosed TWO major hotels 
! Thank you again!!!
Phil & Michaela
Ah…our second Doha post, coming soon, will also interest then, because there’s a fair bit more to follow! We only have the “hungrytravellers” email address….no business email as we are retired, I’m pleased to say
. That address is thehungrytravellers.blog@hotmail.com. Feel free to repost, and thank you again for your kind comments.
restlessjo
Sorry, I confuse Doha and Dubai. Ultra modern isn’t really my style but that moon shaped building would make me stop and stare too.
Phil & Michaela
I wouldn’t have had us down as lovers of ultra modern either…but we’ve loved our stays in Doha, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. I guess for me the interest is in seeing how it looks when countries spend riches well and make investment good for the people, something the UK seems to be clueless at!
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
A lovely and interesting overview of Doha. I enjoyed a visit there a few years back and also found the food terrific and the city a marvellous oasis of calm. Glad to hear that your hotel worked out! Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
It’s been a great few days, Lynette, there’s certainly plenty to see!
Lookoom
Brilliant! I didn’t expect to see so many old buildings like the souq, which seems well preserved. But I’ll be seeing it all for myself soon, having also got a “free” stopover in a few weeks.
Phil & Michaela
Oh that’s great news – I hope you enjoy it as much as we have! A spectacular city (as we said in the text though, the souk is largely rebuilt in original style rather than preserved). I am sure you will enjoy!
Toonsarah
Wow, that’s a feast for the eyes and other senses too! Coincidentally I’m just preparing a post on modern architecture and I’d have loved to be able to include the Moon Tower in particular
We must add this to our list (the flight to Borneo with stopover here is at least temporarily off the list as we’ve made very different plans for the summer!)
Phil & Michaela
Recommended, it’s definitely worth it!
Annie Berger
What an exciting start to your new adventure! Liked seeing how much Doha has changed since we were there several years ago but the architecture still wowed me as it obviously did you both, too. Glad the ‘free’ stopover was what you expected and hoped for.
Phil & Michaela
It was a great few days, Annie. Lots to enjoy!
WanderingCanadians
Looks like a mix of traditional old world meets modern new world in terms of the architecture. I love the look of The Pearl. It definitely has Venice vibes to it. West Bay looks beautiful, especially at night.
Phil & Michaela
It’s an exciting city in many ways, well worth a stopover, maybe more!
Christie
What a lovely way to spend few days before your desert adventure! A futuristic place for sure, what can wealth do, right? Most countries wouldn’t afford that
Phil & Michaela
The evidence of wealth is everywhere, a bit more of that in our next post because it’s very different from most places we visit.
grandmisadventures
What a fantastic mix of styles, feels, and eras all rolled into one incredible city! And the fact that they have figured out how to make a busy city feel so open and fresh is a statement in itself
Phil & Michaela
Enjoyed our stay there, Meg – glad we did it!
leightontravels
Doha’s charm is captivating with its mix of past and present, modernity and history, futuristic architecture and traditional markets. Your descriptions of the bustling streets and spice fragrances make Doha feel like a vibrant, yet peaceful oasis. I’m glad you were so taken with it.
Phil & Michaela
An interesting city, Leighton…would be happy to a stopover again another time
wetanddustyroads
The buildings in Doha are definitely from another world! One can hardly believe a place like this exists in a desert of all places – but I reckon it’s probably all thanks to the availability of oil and gas
. Still, “on the ground” it looks more like a place one would like to explore. As always, your food looks delicious and I love the colourful Pearl Monument.