Dubious Saints, Mutant Sheep & Castles In The Air: Cyprus Unfolds
The downpour is so intense that we don’t really want to leave the boat, but we have to get back to the apartment somehow so it’s heads down and off into the onslaught.
“Goodbye”, shouts Captain Bayram as we head off, adding, “remember, tomorrow there is worse rain, very bad”.
He isn’t kidding either. By the time we return next day from a rather fruitless trip on the dolmus out to Lapta village, the streets of Girne are rivers, floodwater several inches deep racing down every slope and finding every shortcut through town. It’s an outrageous deluge which lasts for hours and has locals laughing and scurrying for cover in equal measure. Ruined shoes for everyone.
A little while later, watching the rain fall from our 8th floor apartment window, we get a little bit of that unwelcome end-of-trip, winding-down feeling, so it’s just as well that next morning sees us collecting our final hire car of the adventure in readiness to explore this part of the world more fully. The sun makes a return, too.
Our first road trip takes us westward from Girne, along the coast and towards the northern end of the island’s partition, a journey which leaves the Pentadaktylos (Five Fingers) Mountains of Girne’s hinterland and heads into the Troodos Mountains which straddle the Green Line, although both sections form part of the Kyrenia mountain range. Driving here has a strange additional element: what is a direct route according to Google Maps sometimes turns out to cross military territory and our way forward is blocked by soldiers, gun cocked and ready to shoot, standing beside a sign which reads “Forbidden Zone”. It’s just slightly unnerving.
First though, resort hotels and private beach clubs line the coast road in an unattractive procession of those places which provide “enclave” holidays for the less adventurous, much English language in evidence on their giant signage. It takes a while before these subside and the massively more attractive coastline and countryside begins to open up.
The impossibly blue manmade lake of Geçitköy nestles half way up the climb over the Troodos, a beautiful sight which has us lingering on the edge of the ridge for several minutes taking in the splendid view. Just beyond the relaxing coastal village of Gemikonagi are the remains of the city of Soli, an ancient Greek settlement later occupied by the Romans which now boasts a couple of very worthwhile sights.
As floor mosaics go, those at Soli are amazingly well preserved, covering a surprisingly large area and retaining easily identifiable imagery, including the swan logo much loved in Roman design. It’s incredible how well these mosaics have withstood all that has come their way, not least warfare and earthquakes. They really are stunning. Behind and above the remains of the city, the amphitheatre, built by the Greeks and enhanced in Roman times, has wonderful views of the Mediterranean as the backdrop to its stage.
A few miles further on, and higher still up the mountains, are the remains of Vouni Palace, a once expansive construction built to enable the wary Phoenicians to keep an eye on what the troublesome Greeks of Soli were up to – this island seems to have an unbroken history of confrontation and mistrust. Pretty much all that remains of Vouni are its foundations and lower levels of walls, but helpful signage provides a decent commentary on each area and enables us to picture the palace in its pomp. If nothing else, it’s well worth a visit to Vouni just to soak up the fabulous views of the seas in one direction and the mountains in the other.
Heading back towards Girne we call in at Güzelyurt (Greek name Morfou), home to a slightly odd museum and a remarkable little church, they’re both just closing as we arrive but with a smile and a plea we manage to get the curator to grab the keys and let us in. Inside the church, carved wooden panelling painted blue and gold depicts many scenes, again extremely well preserved and beautifully presented.
The church is one of fourteen in Cyprus alone which are dedicated to St Mamas, who, according to the museum’s own leaflet but not corroborated by Wikipedia, is the patron saint of tax avoiders. Amusing that there should be such a saint of Greek origin, given that to this day Greece suffers from a ridiculously inept tax collection system with more loopholes than a fishing net. Mamas has obviously done a decent job protecting his subjects. The museum meanwhile is mostly dedicated to artefacts from nearby Soli and also Salamis on the other coast, but in addition has a natural history room where in amongst the usual stuffed birds and mammals are a couple of bizarre mutant sheep. A sheep with two heads… another one with two bodies and eight legs? Are they real? Why are they here? What is their history? We have been unsuccessful in finding answers to such questions.
Second road trip day takes in two villages, each picturesque in their own right but of very different character to each other. Karaman (aka Karmi) is a tranquil, genteel mountain village which must be a little piece of heaven for those seeking a bit of solitude. Formerly home to Greek Cypriots, it became a ghost town as a result of the widespread relocation of citizens after the 1974 invasion. Nowadays the village has a new lease of life as home to British and German expats – mostly British judging by the voices we hear.
Bellapais on the other hand is just as picturesque with its little streets and sweeping views, but is nowhere near as peaceful, due to the presence of a beautiful abbey which draws coach loads of visitors every day, even today when the high season has passed. It isn’t a surprise that Bellapais is popular though, it’s an exceedingly quaint village.
Looking down on the entire region is the precipitous castle of St Hilarion, clinging to different levels of a mountain peak more than 700 metres above sea level. Clambering around its crumbling form and scrambling up and down its uneven steps is great fun, and again, like yesterday, worth every effort for the views alone. Construction of this castle began under Byzantine rule in the 11th century, was upgraded and further fortified during the influence of the Lusignan dynasty, then largely dismantled by the Venetians some 400 years after its creation. The ruins occupy an amazing site, perched right on the edge of the soaring stone faced mountain, its vertical walls seemingly forming an integral part of the rocky mountainside.
We’re moving on from Girne/Kyrenia now to our penultimate destination of the entire trip. Last thoughts on Girne? Well, it’s unfortunate that the obviously attractive harbour and its cafes were all out of commission during our stay, and the town itself is a pleasant little place, but in the surrounding areas there are elements which are difficult to like. The mountain and coastal villages beyond its limits are beautiful, as are the splendid views from multiple vantage points, but to appreciate those it’s necessary to drive past a big helping of resort hotels, casinos, beach clubs and the like – a big dollop of a certain kind of tourism along the coastal strip.
But then, with Girne/Kyrenia being the centre of tourism in North Cyprus, such things were, we suppose, to be expected.
38 Comments
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
A very interesting and informative post. I anticipated reading more about your Cyprus visit.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you x
restlessjo
It’s good to know that it all does still exist if you look beyond the tourist traps. Which I usually do. Wonderful photos again. I would have wanted to see the Troodos Mountains too. We had one of those rivers of downpour here this morning- definitely the time of year. I’m feeling a little down myself this morning. Yesterday was a travelling home day, and a bomb alert at Toulouse airport and subsequent delays meant a late arrival, a sore throat and sniff, and a finger jambed in the taxi door. But the bomb was a hoax, so all good in the end.
Phil & Michaela
Ugh now that sounds like a sequence of events you could’ve done without. There’s more about the tourist elements of Cyprus in our next post, Jo….some things are hard to ignore!
Andrew Petcher
I remember a day in the Troodos Mountains on a coach excursion. A complete waste of a day.
Phil & Michaela
You probably went to Bellapais!
Phil & Michaela
Oh I meant to say….I thought you’d like the patron saint bit…
Andrew Petcher
I love unlikely saint stories.
Phil & Michaela
I know you do…
Lookoom
I had no idea of all the places on the other side of the “border”. Thank you for showing them.
Phil & Michaela
Wait till you see the next instalment, you will be less impressed with the northern half, no doubt
ourcrossings
I’ve never been to Cyprus, but I know that the third-largest and third-most populous island in the Mediterranean has become a favourite beach destination for Irish travellers who are on the lookout for never-ending sunshine. I had no idea that the island also has so many beautiful historical and cultural sites worth exploring. As it’s been raining non-stop in Sligo for the last few days, I wouldn’t mind escaping to it. Thanks for sharing and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Aiva….Cyprus isn’t all good, as you’ll soon see, but there’s good bits if you’re willing to seek them out.
Toonsarah
I’ve never really been drawn to Cyprus because of its reputation for sun and sea package holidays and just the sort of complexes you describe. But you’re the second blogger(s) to paint a different picture of the island away from the resorts, with lots of scenery and history to seek out. That church looks beautiful as does the mountain landscape.
Phil & Michaela
Yes you do have to hunt around to get away from the “holiday horrors”. But just wait till you see our next post….
Toonsarah
I’m intrigued!
Helen Devries
Now I know to whom the Costa Rican oligarchs direct their prayers…..
Phil & Michaela
Ha ha yes, that’s no doubt true! Funnily enough, the word “oligarchs” will be appearing in our next post……and not in a good way….!
Marie
We ‘discovered’ Cyprus in autumn ’21 and returned in spring ’22 to explore the north of the island. There’s is SO much on the island beyond the resort hotels… bad luck re the weather in Girne though.
Phil & Michaela
Well it was only two successive afternoons that the rains came, the rest was absolutely fine. You do have to go looking for the good places, worth the effort but some things here are really not good….will be in our next post.
Mike and Kellye Hefner
As always, outstanding insights and photos! I find the St Hilarion Castle especially fascinating, and I intend to do more research on it. I suppose it was built to purposely meld with the mountain as in its camouflage it is well hidden. The mutant sheep are interesting too, and I hope you will share the information if you ever find out why they are at St Mammas. Safe travels.
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Kellye, yes there’s some interesting places here despite the heavy tourist influence.
Monkey's Tale
The sheep are very creepy, how strange. The saint of tax avoidance is hilarious! But the views from Vouni palace are gorgeous and the two villages look cute. Wondering what the penultimate destination is!
Phil & Michaela
Ah well……no, you’ll have to wait….
Travels Through My Lens
Interesting and informative article. I would love to visit Cyprus someday.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you – Cyprus definitely has its good parts but I have to say it’s not all good. Quite a bit of the “not so good” will be in our next post
wetanddustyroads
The (unpronounceable) lake is beautiful – what an intense blue colour! And ancient mosaics are a wonderful sight to come across. The castle nestled in the mountainsides is just so beautiful … I have heard before that Cyprus is quite hilly (or is it mountainous?) and your photos just confirmed that.
Phil & Michaela
Whaat?? All those weird Afrikaans words you use and you say Turkish is unpronounceable 😂😂😂…. Yes parts of Cyprus are beautiful, but not all of it!
wetanddustyroads
😅😅
WanderingCanadians
Wow, that’s a lot of rain! Glad to hear that you were able to escape the nasty weather the next day during your road trip. The scenery looks beautiful.
Phil & Michaela
Yes, Cyprus is definitely beautiful in places.
Laura
Wow- the ruins of the St Hilarion castle are striking- I love the way it appears to be seamlessly woven with the mountain itself! Some beautiful sights here beyond the tourist strip. I have so many of your posts saved in my inbox to catch up on, and I’m excited to see what the penultimate destination is! 😊💕
Phil & Michaela
The castle is in an amazing setting. I have to say the next destination doesn’t turn out to be the best bit of the trip!
Alison
Love the Abbey photos, could be in the UK even! I suppose it’s the time of year for rain. I’m loving seeing Cyprus through your eyes though. The views are to die for or maybe not considering the machine gun stops, scary.
Phil & Michaela
We said just that – that Bellapais Abbey could be a ruin in the English countryside. Cyprus is good and bad, as you will now have seen…
grandmisadventures
I really love that theres a saint for tax avoiders 🙂 the hike to the castle certainly offered some beautiful views through the remains of the windows
Phil & Michaela
Yes I love that too! And it’s just so typical of the Greeks. Funny on lots of levels.
rkrontheroad
This is more like it, beautiful views of countryside and ruins. Glad to see the weather broke for your travels outside the city.