Nerja, Frigiliana & The Caminita del Rey
On January 12th 1959, five male students failed to report for lessons at a local school in Nerja, not in itself an earth shattering event – indeed the tutor, one Carlos Saura Garre, assumed they had either met some girls or had decided that a movie would be more entertaining than a lecture. Neither of these was the case: the boys had in fact plucked up courage to go through a small entrance to a sinkhole and head underground to see what they might discover.
What they did discover must have blown their young minds. Beneath the waste land just behind the village of Maro, they walked into a gigantic and incredible cave network which was to have a major impact on our understanding of the evolution of the human race and provide one of the most amazing archeological study subjects of its kind. On the walls of this astonishing network are what are currently thought may be be the earliest ever drawings made by mankind so far discovered – they have been aged at some 42,000 years. As we walk awestruck through the caves today, we can only imagine the reaction of those young lads as this incredible place opened up before them.
On our travels, we have visited and wandered through some spectacular caves, but the Caves Of Nerja are up there with the most breathtaking. The display of stalactites, stalagmites and other rock formations just has to be seen to be believed, as does the sheer scale of the cathedral hallways which open up at each turn – just when we think it can’t get any more spectacular, it does exactly that. In total the cave network stretches almost 5 kilometres, only the first portion of which is open to the public, a fact which is ever so slightly mind blowing when you see the scale of the part which is open.
Having almost run out of superlatives to describe the caves, surely after all the lovely towns and villages we’ve seen, there won’t be anything here to have us reaching for more eulogistic words in that respect. Wrong. A few kilometres inland from Nerja is Frigiliana, which just maybe the most perfect of the many “pueblos bonitos” of all that we’ve seen.
With its white houses strung around the curved side of the gorge, streets rising in an amphitheatre shape looking down the gorge towards the sea, Frigiliana is just about the perfect Spanish village. Every corner we turn brings another beautiful lane, or a gorgeous panoramic view, or both. Having really thought that nowhere would outdo Languada or Mojácar, Frigiliana possibly takes the crown. Three gorgeous little places.
The most prominent building of Frigiliana is not, as is usually the case, the church or a monastery, but is what we first think is an olive oil mill. What it actually turns out to be is Europe’s only plant which produces sugar cane honey, which as claims to fame go is pretty esoteric. It’s called honey, but it’s really a semi-caramelised sugar cane extract not requiring the intervention of bees. A local delicacy is aubergine prepared like the Greek dish “kolokythakia” and then doused in this very sweet extract…nice but a little overly sweet for us, especially in a savoury dish context.
Frigiliana certainly is beautiful, even though we catch it on a day when dark clouds are gathering in the blue sky. By the following day, Sunday, Nerja has lost the sunshine altogether, and the temperature drops to a level which has the locals and expats scurrying for their winter wardrobe. Rain falls at regular intervals, but not in the volume which has brought flash flooding and “stay at home” messages elsewhere in the country: Nerja just gets a boring English-style dreary day with enough downpours to make us wary of committing to anything. This area gets 320 sunshine days per year; obviously today is one of the other 45.
By Monday things are back to their blue-sky hot-sun normal, the horizon and the headlands are once again crystal clear and the sun worshippers are soon baring flesh on the beaches. It’s becoming clear though that the intense heat of summer is morphing into something more gentle. Perfect for what we have planned for the day.
The Caminito del Rey is a fantastic and, in our experience, unique hike. Including the start and end bits to and from the shuttle bus, this is a linear walk of around five miles, most of which is on a walkway bracketed to the side of a deep and spectacular gorge, way above the swirling waters below and high enough to be where only eagles would normally be. Literally, the camino makes its way along the sheer cliff, clinging to the rock face at dizzying heights. Not a walk for those with vertigo.
As well as exhilarating, the caminito has an interesting history. Around the turn of the 20th century, in a search to satisfy the growing demand for electricity, the waters of three rivers were diverted into the Desfilerado de los Gaitanes via a 100 foot drop into the tight gorge, at the end of which were built a dam and a hydro-electric power station. Once constructed, there was a need for foot access through the gorge to the plant, along which power station engineers, maintenance technicians and those delivering certain goods would walk.
In those days, there was no thought of handrails or safety equipment, this was just a flat, precarious platform fixed horizontally to the sheer cliffs. The path fell into disuse and consequent decay, but, much later and with the advent of the internet, the deteriorating pathway gained a reputation as a destination for thrill seekers – and anything carrying the tag “most dangerous walk in the world” was bound to attract a certain type. After four fatal accidents where such intrepid, or foolhardy, people had perished, the path was permanently closed.
Somebody somewhere then realised that the Caminito del Rey had tourist potential. The caminito as it is today was then born, and reopened in 2015. It’s an exciting, brilliant hike giving angles of vision on a deep canyon which would otherwise be impossible to attain. We enjoy it so much that by the time we clamber on to the shuttle bus at the end, all we can think of is that we wish we could do it twice.
And so we reach the end of our time in Nerja. Our first impressions were correct, this may be a town geared to tourism but it is a welcoming, attractive town with much to offer and enjoy. The Balcon d’Europe, a walkway from town to sea, provides great views of the Med and of both sunrises and sunsets. Nerja is undoubtedly popular with holidaymakers and expats alike, and it’s easy to see why – we have found it to be a town which effortlessly presses all the relaxation buttons.
Next up, we head away from the coast and inland to Granada.
40 Comments
Nemorino
Fantastic cave, towns and Caminito. So many great attractions so close together.
Marie
We were in nearby Almunecar for a wedding and just managed a quick visit to the caves and an even quicker lunch in Frigiliana but we DID do the Caminito and loved it…definitely worth the experience especially if you have a car…
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Wow, Nerja looks like a beautiful city, as you said a Pueblo Bonito. I love the white everything, and it looks so clean. I just told Marie that the cliff walk looked terrifying, but upon closer inspection of your photos, I might be brave enough to try it. The cave must be incredible in person. Yes, this is another destination that we would love. We will be traveling for the next 10 days, so we will catch up with you when we return. Safe travels!
Phil & Michaela
You too, Kellye!
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Thank you!
Helen Devries
Nothing would persuade me to go on that walk…so thank you for doing it for me! It is spectacular!
We have miel de cana here…..toothachingly sweet for me. Did you try it when in Costa Rica?
Phil & Michaela
No I don’t remember it in Costa Rica at all….not even poured over rice and beans! The walk was fabulous, Helen – really enjoyed it.
Helen Devries
You’re better men than I am……
Christie
Fabulous places! Frigiliana has certainly a character, with all those beautiful white houses.
Caminito looks scary, but I would still do it!! lol
Phil & Michaela
It’s well worth it, the views are just fantastic!
Monkey's Tale
I’ve heard of Caminito del Rey and thought it looked fun and you’ve confirmed that! It’s definitely the list now. The cave paintings are fascinating too and worth another cave trip. On top of that Frigilana is gorgeous, touristy or not, it looks like a great place. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Nerja was a pleasant surprise, Frigiliana so pretty….but the caminito was just brilliant. Loved it all the way!
Toonsarah
What a wonderful variety of sights close to one town! Nerja’s caves look and sound amazing – I assume the prehistoric art is in a part not open to the public? Meanwhile Frigiliana, it looks so pretty and photogenic! And as for the caminito, wow, awesome! I think I would feel OK walking that path, but a five mile hike would challenge me so I’m happy just to enjoy your photos 🙂
Phil & Michaela
You assume correctly, the cave drawings aren’t viewable but there are many stylised representations around the reception centre. The caminito is such a great experience, and we knew nothing about it until the day before we reached Nerja. As soon as we saw it on line, it was a must-do.
grandmisadventures
The Caminito looks like the most awesome and epic walk in a canyon! Putting that on my list for the future 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Thoroughly recommended!
Linda K
Wow what an incredible area with such unique things to check out. There certainly is a lot to see and do. One day of bad weather doesn’t seem so bad when the pay-off is such beautiful sunshine and brilliant views. The caves and the hike both look spectacular and quite the adventures to have had.
Phil & Michaela
It was great, Linda, I’m glad that came over in our post. Both the caves and the caminito were highlights of our current trip, that’s for sure.
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Adding to our list. Superb photography!
normareadtalktalknet
Wow
leightontravels
It’s been fun reading about a leg of your Spanish travels that I have also covered. Frigiliana is such an impossibly attractive place that is a joy to wander through and explore. Can you believe that the caves were closed when I visited? I actually walked to them from Frigiliana, it was quite the disappointment. Enjoyed reading the history about the school kids. I did the El Caminito del Rey one morning with a friend and know it’s something I’ll always remember. Afterwards we had a fabulous lunch at Bar de Pilar just outside the nearby village of El Chorro. Good times.
Phil & Michaela
Hmm, walking all that way and finding it closed. That’s not great. The caminito was just brilliant, one of the highlights of this trip so far, I would say.
wetanddustyroads
👀 My hands are sweating and my heart is beating fast while looking at your featured photo! The caves are spectacular and so is Frigiliana. You know what? I will be waiting for you there while you walk the Caminito del Rey. I wonder what the hard hats are for. Thanks for the amazing pictures … I doubt I’ll ever put my foot there!
Phil & Michaela
The caminito is brilliant, and – honestly – very safe. I think you’d be fine once you got going!
Phil & Michaela
Oh and yes – the hard hats. I asked that question, and the response was that there is a danger of rocks falling from above. My answer was…it must be about a billion to one chance that one would fall just as someone was underneath. Ten minutes into our walk, a pigeon took off from a ledge and disturbed some stones…one of which hit me slap bang on the head and bounced off my hard hat! Just goes to show huh…
wetanddustyroads
Oh … and there I thought for a moment it was to protect your head in case you might fall 😉. But yeah, for falling rocks the hard hat sounds like a good idea.
Lookoom
This caminito is quite tempting, and it’s a good idea to come up with a modern version.
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
Leave it to daring youth to make these incredible discoveries. A few years ago we visited ‘Cave Without a Name’ in Boerne, Texas which is equally awe-inspiring – also discovered by a couple of kids who decided to drop down a hole. Everything about this segment of your journey interests me, including the cliff walk. I have seen lots of photos of it on Instagram which make it seem completely harrowing. Thanks for offering a perspective that looks doable. I am pinning this post for reference. Have fun.
Phil & Michaela
It’s definitely not as scary as it looks, Suzanne…well, unless you have a fear of heights of course. Glad you found it interesting, it’s an area with plenty of things to see, do and explore.
Parks and Planes
What an incredible place and it was fun to read how the place was discovered – we were hooked the first few words into this post, great job!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you for your kind comment guys, it’s certainly an interesting area.
WanderingCanadians
The caves of Nerja look spectacular with all the various cave formations. Who knew being underground could be so beautiful!? And speaking of which, Frigiliana looks so lovely and clean with all those neat and tidy white houses. The views on the Caminito del Rey are gorgeous, but some sections do look a bit sketchy! Glad you had nice weather for your hike.
Phil & Michaela
The walk is very safe but not good if you have a fear of heights. Enjoyed that area though, lots of good points
The Nepal Trekking Company
This is beautiful and useful information. Great content, such a real sharing, and beautiful pictures.
Thank you for sharing your information. Can not wait to read next one.
https://www.thenepaltrekkingcompany.com/trek/budget-annapurna-base-camp-trek-cost-11-days-itinerary-for-2023-2024/
rkrontheroad
A charming city. Did the boys get known for discovering the caves? I can’t imagine how that bridge could have been constructed, or the caminito. Kudos to you for walking it!
Phil & Michaela
I don’t think they received much recognition until years later…but there are now commemorative statues at the cave and in Nerja itself. The caminito was terrific, one of the (many) highlights of this current trip.
ETB Travel Photography
Wow! Adding these places to my list!
Phil & Michaela
That was a good stop on this long journey, the caminito really was one if the highlights
Tan Bollesty
Fascinating post. It’s over 20 years since I was last in the area (stayed in Sedella) , pretty much pre-internet and information like this wasn’t easy to come by. Great to refresh memories of a beautiful area.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, yes we really enjoyed that part of the trip, a beautiful area, as you say.