Greek Island Hopping: What’s Changed?
Guaranteed sunshine; hot days and balmy evenings; unbelievably blue seas and crystal clear waters; blue and white houses and cloudless skies – the Greek islands are still a beautiful sight with a huge feelgood factor.
But these islands have changed. Island hopping has changed. These are still beautiful places to visit, make no mistake, nobody can change the dramatic scenery or those intense colours, but just a little bit of the magic has perhaps gone and the old pioneer spirit of island hopping is no longer really there.
Let us explain. Over the last few weeks, and indeed over our last few visits, we have reached the conclusion that there is not really these days any such thing as a truly unspoilt Greek island, nor any island which is completely untouched by tourism. Each island is affected and influenced by tourism, the differences between the islands now are really, to what degree each island has been influenced, and which market the island has aimed for.
So for the description “get away from it all”, read “not a party island”; for “unspoilt”, read “lower key tourism”. Development is usually subtle and sympathetic, new properties built in the same style as old, but you are extremely unlikely to ever find anything as authentically Greek as in, say, a provincial town on the mainland, except in occasional remote island villages.
The clamour of room hawkers and travellers plying trade at the ferry port has all but gone, replaced presumably by online booking and the likes of airbnb. Your friendly English speaking waiter will turn out to be an Albanian working on the island for the summer season. Empty houses aren’t rooms waiting to be taken, they are the second homes of wealthy Athenians.
Quaint little ferries with unreliable schedules have given way to bigger vessels including high speed catamarans with prices which bear no resemblance to the bargains of yesteryear.
Lounge music and reggae bars are far more frequent than a balalaika. Prices have leapt beyond recognition; the cheaper islands are not that different from home, the classier ones closer to London prices. It’s quite rare now to find a cheap island, and in fact we found towns and cities on the mainland an awful lot cheaper.
The stunning beauty remains, the sea as blue as ever, sunsets and sunrises as gorgeous as ever. Anyone visiting these islands for the first time will still be blown away and will most likely think they are in paradise. For those able to remember past times, a little bit of the magic has undoubtedly gone.
34 Comments
Lookoom
I agree with you. For my first stay in the islands, I probably chose the worst, Mykonos and Santorini. Everything is beautiful and clean, but everything is artificial. These places have become decors. I feel like I’m visiting a holiday village inhabited by other tourists from the big cities of Europe, taking the same pictures. There is no more local life, no more locals, no more life.
As you say, there is still the good weather, the fresh air, the sweet sunsets. I’m glad I know these places now, but it’s not enough to like them.
Phil & Michaela
You can be encouraged, because Mykonos and Santorini are indeed among the “worst”. The views of the caldera from Santorini are some of the best in the world, but it’s indisputable that Santorini has sold its soul. However, having started with the more extreme, things will get better as you move on.
Lookoom
That was exactly my goal, next time I will go to more unspoilt islands, I have noted your favourites: Amorgos, Tilos and Folegandros. However apart from Oia there are also some more authentic places to visit in Santorini, I think for instance of Emporio or the archaeological site of Akrotini, where archaeologists excavate in front of the visitors.
Linda K
Such an interesting and honest blog. I have never been and as you say would enjoy the scenery and never be the wiser…however for those that have been I’m sure it is quite the dramatic change. I imagine there are lots of places that have succumbed to the tourism dollar and the more “modern” way of doing things. Thanks for the insight!
Annie Berger
Liked your honest appraisal of island hopping . I’m sure most tourists are thankful for the idyllic views, great weather as sufficient to get away from a normal humdum life
Phil & Michaela
Absolutely, and is still beautiful, but nothing stays the same for ever, I guess
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Linda, yes the effect of the shrinking world is sometimes quite clear
Alison
That’s progress for you.i think the same can be said of Thailand and the islands. It’s getting harder to find anything untouched. Still beautiful though, the sun still rises each day and sets each evening
Phil & Michaela
Yes absolutely, the beauty is still there in these places – I guess that’s why they get popular!
Alison
Of course, why not share the beauty
wetanddustyroads
I hear what you’re saying … but I’m looking at your photo’s in this post and I just want to pack my bag and go Greek Island Hopping!!
Phil & Michaela
Do it!
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
I am sure by almost any casual traveler’s standards, your experience would have been extraordinary on many levels, but I get it. It is hard to go back.
My daughter was just in Santorini. She has no previous ‘culture’ to compare it to and reacted as one would when seeing it for the first time. A conversation with a hotel worker revealed that they (locals) and he personally had enjoyed the absence of tourist, cruise ships and foreigners in general during the pandemic. Not surprising.
This conundrum of protecting natural beauty vs, promoting tourism and development spans the ages. As soon as a place is ‘discovered’ it won’t take long before it is no longer recognizable. Just look at what has happened to Portugal in the past ten years.
Thanks for the wrap-up, I have enjoyed following your journey.
Phil & Michaela
We guess the final comment is, popular places get popular for a reason!
Toonsarah
It’s a shame these islands have lost a bit of their magic for you. Following your posts however I could tell that some were definitely less spoiled/developed than others. Let’s hope they stay that way! And it has to be said that they all look wonderful 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Oh I do hope we made clear that they are still absolutely beautiful!
grandmisadventures
Interesting to read the comparisons of what it was and what it is. Thankfully those amazing views of blue are unchanged.
Phil & Michaela
Absolutely!
Andrew Petcher
But it still has the Skopelitis ferry.!
Phil & Michaela
Yes it does, Andrew – the one boat which felt “real”! But don’t get us wrong, those islands are still simply beautiful.
Andrew Petcher
Like you I have seen the changes. The old rusty ferries, the dusty shops, the knackered buses have all gone. The simple rooms have become boutique hotels. Simple tavernas are now bisrtos, Such a great shame. All gone and much missed.
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Interesting.I was there in 1989. Not expecting Greece to be what I remembered when we do visit..Most popular places are like you described.We loved Puerto Vallarta but the last time we went back was the last time.
Great wrap up.
Cheers!
Andrew Petcher
I wrote this post some time ago lamenting the ferry modernisation…
https://aipetcher.wordpress.com/2011/09/26/a-life-in-a-year-26th-september-island-hopping-and-greek-ferries/
Phil & Michaela
Just read it. There’s more now too, Andrew. Everyone takes card payments whereas it all used to be a cash economy; everything was punctual; there were NO plumbing issues (!!) and only one power cut. Things are definitely changing.
Andrew Petcher
Oh dear, I liked the old ways.
WanderingCanadians
Many of us want to travel off the beaten path and discover these secret places that are authentic. But it’s getting harder to find them. Either way, Greece still looks beautiful, but all that catering to tourists really takes away from the experience.
Jyothi
Its beautiful!! Great captures and great read!
bitaboutbritain
That is interesting, informative – and beautifully illustrated. Though my focus (of course!) is on that damp little island on the edge of the Atlantic, Greek islands are wonderful. It’s a different product. I have been disappointed sometimes – in the same way as parts of Britain disappoint – but a warm sandy beach, waves gently lapping, orange sun setting and a handy taverna is unbeatable.
Monkey's Tale
It’s sad to hear, but I guess not unexpected given those incredible views that everyone wants to have. It seems to be happening everywhere. Thanks for the honest perspective. Maggie
carolinehelbig
Super interesting perspective on what has happened to the Greek Islands. I was last there in 1983 so I guess I’d see a huge difference. Part of me wants to keep those magical memories as they are, but another part wants to re-visit, because, as you have shown in your posts, the Greek islands are just so darn beautiful. I’d have to keep my expectations in check.
Phil & Michaela
Yes, I do hope we made it clear that the islands are still beautiful!
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Joe
I greatly appreciate the dose of reality that you share in this post. Hopping the Greek Islands sounds so idyllic to the unacquainted. As you say and show, these islands are incredibly beautiful. I hope to experience them for myself some day, perhaps sharing some travel time with the more authentic mainland destinations.
Phil & Michaela
It’s still stunningly beautiful – no one can change that…but would absolutely definitely recommend a mainland tour too if you can fit it in