Boca Chica: Sometimes Panama Needs A Mute Switch
It’s Day 47 of this trip when Michaela’s fitbit throws in the towel and responds to each request with a blank screen, then slides from 100% charge to under 10% in less than an hour. Not so interesting, except that this is the fifth fitbit in 3 years to follow this route. When we retired, Michaela decided that a fitbit would be a useful travelling companion, helping to record, in particular, our walking distances. Five have now bit the dust, not one of them lasting twelve months and four of them failing to complete their maiden journey. Every single one has failed whilst abroad. Any ideas what’s going on, anyone?
Before we finally leave Boquete, minus one piece of gadgetry, we take a drive up to El Parador, a viewpoint which offers truly stunning views back across the beautiful scenery to Volcan Baru: a brilliant place to bid farewell, and not a terrible place to have breakfast, either, as it happens. Swallows, or maybe martins, swoop around us as we enjoy the fabulous views.
A couple of hours later we pull into our next destination, the rather unusual village of Boca Chica on the Pacific coast, tucked between the green and the blue. There’s just the one half-made road in, which forks into two as it enters the village, each branch then reaching the waterfront within a couple of hundred yards. Boatmen at the jetty call out looking for their next fare, pelicans wait patiently for their next catch, the islands of Golfo di Chiriqui call enticingly from across the water. A couple of small restaurants peep out from between the modest houses, a small chapel nestles in the trees, there is little else here apart from the village’s amazing setting.
Yet Boca Chica is by no means a silent backwater, not today anyway. It is a gateway to the beaches on the numerous islands in the gulf and, as this is another Panamanian public holiday weekend, city dwellers from David are passing through in numbers and the boatmen are raking in the dollars. La Costa, the small restaurant next to the jetty, is doing brisk business as returning sunseekers grab some fresh fish before heading back to the city.
Uphill from, and about a kilometre away from, the village, our base here in Boca Chica is perfect, a small private lodging way above the water, with two sensational aspects – 1, the view across the surrounding islands out in the gulf, and 2, a sumptuously well placed infinity pool to enhance those views. It’s so peaceful here, the silence broken only by birdsong, monkey calls and the distant sound of motor boats ambling across the water. Our very accommodating and gregarious hosts Herbie and Erika – South African, been here 6 years – are great company at breakfast and at any other time we are up for conversation.
The treetops around us is a haven for birdlife….multi coloured tanagers, oropendola, woodpeckers, parrots and a host of other colourful birds flutter and feed amongst the dense greenery whilst vultures and raptors circle overhead. It’s beautifully peaceful, and then next morning at first light we awake to the calls of the howler monkeys and the strange squeaky-wheel calls of the oropendola. These are the sounds of peace and tranquility. It feels wonderful, detached from the world, yet at one with nature, all at once.
Monday morning is the third day of the long weekend public holiday and so we feel compelled to join those city dwellers and head off on a small boat over to the islands. The calm of our temporary dwelling has lulled us into thinking that peace is a King which rules around these parts – gotta be right, yeah? Errr, no.
Bum chigga bum chig….bum chigga bum chig….That’s pretty much the rhythm of every song on every sound system in Panama…and in Costa Rica too for that matter. As our boat approaches the first island, Bolaños, the incessant beat is literally bouncing across the water towards our boat. Bum chigga bum chig…. bum chigga bum chig…..the beach is full of families barbecuing under the shade of the palm trees, speakers the size of small houses pounding out the “music” as if there’s an award for the loudest. Bum chigga bum chig…bum chigga bum chig..bum chigga bum chig…
What’s more, there’s nowhere else to go. The tiny island has only dense impenetrable forest, no trails, and rugged rocks framing the beach. And the next two islands are the same…except Parida, the second one, also has a beach bar which also plays music that goes bum chigga bum chig…. bum chigga bum chig…. just ever so slightly louder than the giant speakers of the families on the beach.
After three islands of ear splitting music we are desperate for the tranquility of “home”. And of course it delivers, birdsong to listen to and summer lightning over the Pacific to entertain us, the chief howler monkey hauntingly calling his troupe back together for bedtime. We speak with Herbie in whispers so as not too upset our mammal neighbours.
As we drift off to sleep listening to the sounds of jungle wildlife, something, somewhere in the back of my head, something like a nightmare earworm, is speaking to me, taunting me…..going bum chigga bum chig…… bum chigga bum chig….. bum chigga bum chig…bum chigga bum chig…
By Tuesday morning it’s over, they’ve all gone back to their day jobs and Boca Chica has returned to what we assume is its normal character. Far fewer boatmen populate the jetty, La Costa waits for diners, silence reigns where yesterday there was manic activity. We take a water taxi over to Boca Brava, wander along the attractive “sendero” through the forests to a beach where we are at first completely alone until just a handful of others set up camp under the trees. They don’t have a giant speaker; this time there’s nothing to drown out the gentle lapping sound of waves on the sand. The Pacific waters are unbelievably warm, particularly in the shallows; it’s like lounging in bath water.
When we return to base after a few hours of blissful peace, we find there is an opposite change of dynamic back at the Eco Lodge and as Boca Chica quietens down, so our haven inches up in the other direction. Having shared the place with only our hosts and Dennis and Alice from Alaska for a couple of days, there is now an influx of German voices and the decibel levels have ramped up, and for a while the Eco Lodge becomes the Echo Lodge as harsh Teutonic consonants bounce back off the walls in just about every direction. The howler monkeys sense too much competition and go to seek refuge somewhere in the darkness.
The night before the German invasion, we had listened transfixed as Herbie and Erika had described to ourselves and Dennis and Alice the challenges of life in South Africa, and how much safer they now feel having put distance between themselves and their own homeland. They detail a troubled and volatile political climate back home; the conversation is illuminating and revealing, not to mention shocking. Unfortunately it does nothing to bring South Africa higher up our wish list.
We end our time at the Lodge in just the way we’ve come to love over these last few days, once again exchanging stories with Herbie and Erika, and with Dennis and Alice – not least because everyone, absolutely everyone, has a story to tell. In Alice’s case, it’s the fact that this lady has survived not one but TWO helicopter crashes in her life…what are the chances!? It’s just a little bit hard to drive away from here, not necessarily because Boca Chica has offered anything particularly special, but because our time at the Lodge has been so very good. Herbie and Erika are the definition of good hosts and after only three nights here it’s a bit like saying goodbye to family.
But once again it’s time to head across country, eating up the miles on the PanAmerican and racing towards our next, very different, destination. Every now and again we pass a roadside cafe, or a homestead, where speakers the size of small houses go….
Bum chigga bum chig…bum chigga bum chig…bum chigga bum chig…
31 Comments
Monkey's Tale
We had planned to stay jn this area but for reason we didn’t. Your hotel in Boca Chica sounds perfect, now I wish we had gone!! Maggie
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Sometimes it’s not about the destination, it’s about the people you meet along the way. Your visit to Boca Chica sounds lovely and the Eco Lodge looks fabulous – what a view. And wildlife at your doorstep is definitely a bonus. Safe travels, my friends.
Phil & Michaela
Such a lovely place to stay
Andrew Petcher
A great travelogue as always.
Phil & Michaela
Cheers bud
Christie
You are such a great story teller Phil, I couldn’t but laugh at the bum chigga bum chig… I think Latinos are the loudest on this earth LOL. Despite this, the places look fabulous! Safe travels!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you so much Christie, I like that compliment. Glad we made you laugh 😂
Toonsarah
That lodge looks like our sort of place to stay – comfortable but small scale and suited to its environment. A shame your visit coincided with the holiday weekend but on your second visit to the islands they look enticing. However from a reader’s point of view I’m glad you had that first noisy visit too because it makes for such a good story! Bum chigga bum chig ……
Phil & Michaela
Ha well you have to see the funny side of such things huh…
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Boca Chica is a slice of paradise. Glad you got to experience it.
grandmisadventures
Stunning pictures of those beaches! They might forever carry that rhythm with them in your memories though 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Without a doubt!
leightontravels
I had never heard of a Fitbit, not sure how that passed me by. Your shot of the coffee on the ledge with the sweeping landscape behind it sums up how I feel every day should start ha ha. Hopefully we’ll be heading to a similar (ish) setup soon. Boca Chica looks and sounds…. wait, scrap that last part. What a pity that, yet again, people need to blast shite music at ridiculous levels. Totally undermining what it is that makes the place so special. And then the noisy group… sigh. I’d have been running straight off for those glorious empty beaches of Boca Brava. Nevertheless, I’m glad the lodge charmed you thanks to the connection you made with your hosts.
Phil & Michaela
They do like their music loud and repetitive here…
Alison
Very entertaining Phil, nothing worse than a tranquil beach being spoilt by the same beat of music over and over.
We also don’t have a desire to visit South Africa, having met quite a few SA’s here and listening to their stories.
Seems like you are having a brilliant time still, life will.be very mundane for you on your return. Loving all your accommodation 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Ali – yes they are very into making a lot of noise here. We’re thinking that we won’t be home for too long before we set off somewhere again.
Alison
🙂
bluebrightly
Your blog is really a wonderful travel source, between the light, welcoming tone, plenty of information, and clear writing. I think I found you via Toonsarah…and I’ve just spent several hours reading about your Costa Rica trip. I wonder if you’re able to let me know the contact information for any of the guides you used in Costa Rica (e.g. Reymar). I went there 20 years ago and am planning another trip now. We have a similar philosophy to yours and want to experience the culture more as travelers, less as tourists but we’re not up for totally roughing it. Any advice you have about places you stayed would also be very much appreciated. We’ve used airbnb for years with only a few clunkers – fresh recommendations are invaluable. Enjoy your travels and thank you!
Phil & Michaela
Hi there, and thank you so much for your kind comments. We had a wonderful time in Costa Rica, really was one of our best trips. We would love to be able to help with all/any information on accommodation, hiking, places to go, etc. Reymar in particular was a terrific host, so willing to help – even coming to fetch us home when we were stuck in a bar with pouring rain outside! If you went 20 years ago, you will find it quite a bit more expensive – not mind blowing but not cheap any more. If you tell me what your outline plans are, then we can definitely give help and advice. If it’s easier, email us on thehungrytravellers.blog@hotmail.com and we will be very happy to help.
bluebrightly
A previous comment didn’t seem to post. I found you via Toonsarah and am enjoying your blog, especially the Costa Rica posts. I visited Costa Rica about 20 years ago and am planning to go again soon. I’d love to have the contact information for some of the guides you used, like Reymar. Is that possible? The same goes for anything you can tell me about specific places where you stayed. We too have used airbnb’s extensively and a fresh viewpoint would be great instead of relying on reviews on their site. Thank you in advance and Happy Travels!
Phil & Michaela
It posted ok, have replied to the first one.
Dave Ply
I hear you (because it’s quiet here) about the “needs a mute switch” idea. I’ve never quite understood the need for some, when listening to music, to have to crank it up to an earsplitting, hear it half a mile away level.
Your pictures (sans the cacophony) seem idyllic and relaxing. And sometimes it really is the company you meet that makes the trip, more so than the physical place itself. Travelers have the best stories…
Phil & Michaela
I reckon you’re right!
wetanddustyroads
Indeed a beautiful view over breakfast … and let’s not forget the view across the surrounding islands – gorgeous! I would certainly enjoy a stay at Boca Chica Bay Eco Lodge – that’s probably the closest you’ll get to nature without camping 😉. Yes, your South African hosts are unfortunately not wrong with the situation in our country currently … but we’re here and we need to make it work some or other way.
(Oh and sorry can’t help with the fitbit (don’t have one) … but I can tell you a friend also had 2 in one year …)
Phil & Michaela
Our South African hosts were such great people though, Corna. Excellent company as well as the perfect hosts, and Herbie was a very entertaining and humorous guy.
WanderingCanadians
I’ve had some issues with Fitbit as well and I’m on my third one in the past five years. Lately it’s been giving me a rash on my wrist. The view of the islands out in the gulf looks stunning. And that pool looks so refreshing! Looks like a lovely spot to stay.
Phil & Michaela
It was, for sure!
rkrontheroad
It’s a shame about the music… I much prefer the birdsong and monkey calls. They make me miss my years in Central America.
Phil & Michaela
The bum chigga…. Was just everywhere, they really do like their music loud…
Annie Berger
Another great story, Phil, and photos, Michaela. Sorry to hear about the problems with the Fitbit – I use a pedometer app on my phone to track my steps. That works great for me. I think the incessant artificial noise would have driven me crazy. The older I get, the quieter I like my environs! Fantastic photo of Michaela at the infinity pool and of the beach/sand at Costa Brava – I want to go there tomorrow!
Phil & Michaela
Boca Chica was an experience, that’s for sure, Annie.