Paradise Lost: Time To Move On
Michaela’s coming together with the floating log necessitates hiring a golf buggy to explore the island rather than going everywhere on foot, primarily because her oh-so-slow walk gives her a gait which brings both John Cleese and Jake The Peg to mind at the same time. She climbs steps as a toddler would, carefully assessing next move before lifting the first leg and then placing both feet on each step.
Golf buggies are slightly odd too: at first the combination of a top heavy centre of gravity and uneven road surfaces with an ever changing camber makes us feel as if the thing will topple at any moment and we’re going to have more than just a bad knee to worry about. But, like anything, we get used to it quickly and are soon bombing round Contadora like we’ve driven golf buggies since ever.
By Christmas morning the knee is a lot more mobile. Whether this is down to the ice packs kindly provided by hotel staff, the passage of time, or last night’s admirable concoction of Balboa beer, caipirinha and Argentinian Malbec all coming together to act as a painkiller is a matter of conjecture.
Boxing Day brings a change as we engage a local boatman, aptly named Marino, to take us on a tour around a few of the neighbouring islands. Contadora is just one of the circa 300 islands constituting the Islas del Perlas (Pearl Islands), so named not, as we first thought, because of their undeniable beauty, but because when the Spanish first arrived here they could scarcely believe the quantity of pearls – in oyster and conch shells, on the beaches and around the necks of the natives.
Even amongst these paradise islands there are some which are jewels in the many crowns, perfectly gorgeous tiny islands with pristine beaches, some like sand dunes rising out of the sea, others with the palm trees and greenery of that idyllic desert island which exists in all of our minds. Most of the Las Perlas islands are uninhabited: these amazing beaches are the preserve of locals like Marino and boat-owning Panama City dwellers. Most of the islands have no buildings; many have no name.
Marino takes us first to Saboga, the only nearby island with an authentic village, where most of those who work on Contadora reside. Wandering amongst its dirt roads and houses feels so different from its more popular neighbour, a village looking after its own rather than looking after visitors. From Saboga we head on to Chapera, Mogo Mogo and finally the ridiculously gorgeous sand and waters of Boya Arena.
At each of the last two, the sand stretches across the island to the opposite side: these are beaches with two shores. Mogo Mogo, it seems, has a claim to fame as the location for TV shows known as “Survivor”. Appearance wise, it’s no surprise that these sumptuous, perfect islands are TV stars in their own right – unfortunately for us though, we unwittingly time our visit to coincide with low tide on the day of the lowest tide of the cycle, so rocks and shingle are exposed where normally there would be the perfect sea for swimming.
Then, later on, out of nowhere and without warning in comes Montezuma hell bent on revenge, in comes Delhi with his belly, in comes Gut with his rot. One minute I’m eulogising the fish dish I’m eating and the next it’s 4am and I’m parting company with what feels like everything I’ve eaten in the last three weeks. Sometimes these things just take over – and there are moments through the course of the day when curling up and dying seems like a decent option. I make a few forlorn trudges down to swim but by early evening I have to admit defeat and give in. Ah well. You win, Monty.
And so our time on the paradise island of Contadora ends not with a bang but with a whimper, as we board the ferry back to Panama City with me feeling a little fragile after the blitz and a long stretch without food and Michaela nursing her badly bruised but rapidly improving knee. In a sense though, that’s not all.
On the last morning on Contadora, in that awkward spell after checking out but before it’s time to catch the ferry, Michaela looks up and poses a question.
“Is it me, or has this trip gone a bit flat?”
“It’s not you, it has”.
We have a little chat about it and we’re quick to realise we’re having the same thoughts: this trip needs a kick up the backside. Suddenly it feels too long since we had an adrenaline rush, since we climbed a mountain, since we explored ancient monuments, since we trekked a jungle….spotted wildlife….suddenly it feels like too long since….excitement.
There’s absolutely nothing wrong with either Treasure Beach or the Pearl Islands, they are exotic and romantic and the stuff of dreams, but there’s only so many times you can go “wow” at the same views, only so many days that a peaceful paradise is enough.
And we’re at the end of that time, ready to move on and explore a whole load more of the mainland. Panama here we come…
22 Comments
Annie Berger
Looking forward to reading all about your next adrenaline rush and hoping Michaela’s leg is up to wherever life takes you both next. Wishing you both the happiest of New Years and many travels.
Phil & Michaela
Thanks, Annie. Happy New Year to you too – how is the recovery going?
Annie Berger
Thanks for asking about my recovery – certainly not in the direction I was hoping for but we were able to fly out to San Francisco over Christmas to see our son and grandchildren so that was a major morale boost.
Phil & Michaela
Doesn’t sound too good but hopefully you’ll be back on form soon in the new year xx
Alison
Hope you both recover soon, a new year with new places to explore. Enjoying all your travel stories and photos ☺️
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Ali….and happy new year to you xx
WanderingCanadians
Great idea to hire a golf cart to explore the island given Michaela’s sore knee. Sorry to hear that you had some tummy troubles. Sounds like it is definitely time to move on!
grandmisadventures
Wishing you a speedy recovery with your knee Michaela! After such a beautiful respite place, now adventure is calling back in Panama and I can’t wait to see more of the country with you. You have had an incredible year of travel and I have loved following along to all the places you have shared with us. Wishing you all the best in the new year! 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Thank you for such kind comments Meg, much appreciated. Happy new year!
Toonsarah
While I’m pleased to hear Michaela’s knee is improving, that attack of Montezuma’s revenge sounds particularly unpleasant. Those beaches are lovely but like you I’d be itching to move on to something more interesting. In fact, I’d have been itching to do that some time before you did, I suspect! Can’t wait to see where you go next 😀
Phil & Michaela
Yes we definitely need a change of scene!
Monkey's Tale
The island life is just not for you two it sounds like – injuries, stomach woes, boredom… Can’t wait for the next adventurous locale 🙂 Happy New Year! Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Happy new year to you too, guys
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
When you live in Panama there is a saying: TIP! This is Panama. You are experiencing it.
Phil & Michaela
It would appear so!
leightontravels
well, mixed news in this one with the improvement of Michaela’s knee, the awful food poisoning (?) and that “meh” moment that often springs up during a long period of travel. Glad to hear you have a plan and curious to hear what Panama brings. Saboga village looked really charming, I’d love to get out to this neck of the woods one day.
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
We spent some time on Contadora and the Islas Perlas on our sailboat almost 20 years ago. Looks like it hasn’t changed much – you did a great job of capturing that rustic island feel. So sorry about your Montezuma’s – ugh. Guess it hits all of us sooner are later; we both struggled with it in Mexico City. How much longer will you be in Panama? Are you headed west to Boquete and Chiriqui? Lots of outdoor adventures to be had there!
HAPPY NEW YEAR to you both!
– John and Susan
Phil & Michaela
Well we’re currently in a lovely little town called Pedasi, in the agricultural part of the Ajuero peninsula, it’s very nice here. We leave here on Tuesday (3rd) and our next destination is indeed Boquete, so really looking forward to that.
Lookoom
These beaches are dreamlike landscapes; Boquete will be very different, especially for coffee lovers.
Mike and Kellye Hefner
I’m so sorry for your misfortunes! While the islands were gorgeous, I am looking forward to seeing more of the mainland. Safe travels!
wetanddustyroads
The golf buggy sounds like the perfect solution for Michaela’s injured knee (but not for you with tummy troubles … except maybe to get quickly to the loo 😉). You had so many lovely views from Marino’s boat – Mogo Mogo is beautiful. But yeah for adventure – can’t wait to read your following posts!!
Oh, and I was wondering: Did Michaela left the island maybe with a pearl necklace …
Phil & Michaela
Ha ha no I think the Spanish took them all, back in the day!