San Francisco #1
Where do we begin, to describe this exciting, unique city. What makes San Francisco what it is? Is it those incredibly steep streets which look like a tarmac roller coaster, is it the streetcars and cable cars we all associate with the views? Is it THAT bridge, is it THAT prison on its isolated island? Is it the amazing things you can do (and we did) here, is it the bars that just make you want to grab a stool and try all the beers? Chinatown? North Beach? Pier 39? Restaurants at the waterfront? Crazy shit like Lombard Street or Haight Ashbury? Or even the way the fog wraps itself around the tops of the skyscrapers?
We guess the truth is, the best thing is just the feeling of being here in this cosmopolitan, inclusive city, full of experiences, yet where the sum is greater than the not inconsiderable parts.
“I’m Brad, I just wanna say welcome to my beautiful city” he says from behind his beer, “where you guys from?”
“England”.
“Oh my God”, he drawls, lengthening the vowel sounds, “if you’re from England, you must love how friendly we are here”.
We confirm that they are, and we do.
“Well, welcome to this beautiful place, you make sure you have a great time”.
Yep, we did…..
We’ve had a couple of hours to kill waiting for the fog to clear to enable the flight to go ahead, time enough to wander around the strange houseboat village near Sausalito, across the water from the city. To our delight the sun has broken through, the fog has retreated to the hilltops and we are now pretty confident things will go ahead.
Consequently we are full of excitement as we walk back to the wooden jetty where the little yellow and white seaplane is already chugging in readiness. A seaplane flight was on our wish list right from the start when we drew up our retirement travel plans in 2019, so for the moment to have at last arrived is pure joy. And yet the flight still exceeds our expectations…
Across the water to a calm stretch for take-off, up and above those houseboats, then round to the Golden Gate Bridge, across the bay, over the city, Alcatraz and Angel Island, it’s half an hour of absolute bliss. Just us two and the pilot and co-pilot, above this magnificent city, buffeted by the mountain air, unable to stop grinning, watching the city and the sea pass close beneath the plane, the whole panorama laid out beneath us. What a place to make our seaplane wish come true. Fantastic.
You don’t have to be a lover of transport (we are!) to get a buzz out of darting around San Francisco on any of its different modes. The BART and the metro are efficient, the buses are regular and easy, but the real fun is to be had on the streetcars and especially the world famous cable cars. Hanging on to a pole as we ride the clanking cars over the peaks of the hills, the driver (actually called a “gripman”) wrenching the oversize control stick back and forth, is not only enormous fun but also something we’ve seen pictures of since we were kids.
The cable cars are of course a tourist thing, but simply being able to use those and the streetcars to shoot around the city gives a great feeling of just being somewhere different, somewhere special. A streetcar here, a cable car there, a bus when we need one. Easy. And so so cool.
One of the most recognisable structures in the entire world, the Golden Gate Bridge spans across the bay with an almost ghostly presence – not the majesty of a Taj Mahal or the romance of a Rialto, but an eerie, looming quality as it drifts in and out of the fog. Until you’re up close, you can’t see its colour. And then, when you are indeed up close, its mighty power takes over.
Having seen it from afar and having seen it from the air, we now see it from…well, on it. From the spectacular viewing platforms at Fort Point, we walk out on to the bridge to see its towering body for ourselves, trudging more than half way across before turning back. The walk is a massacre of our ears, the fierce howling wind competing with the roar of the traffic to block out all other sound: we have to shout our words just to speak.
It’s cold too. Around us the biting wind blows hard; above and around us the giant stanchions and muscling cables stand tall; beneath us – way, way beneath us – the choppy Pacific waters loom cold and grey. It’s cold and it’s loud and it’s full on, yet the whole walk is somehow exhilarating and uplifting, our spirits taken ever upwards by the rush of adrenaline.
For the inmates, life at Alcatraz was tough. A hard line, no nonsense policy of rule enforcement (we would call it zero tolerance today), a repetitive daily routine, harsh punishments for anyone not toeing the line but, worst of all, spending every day among the most violent and psychotic criminals in America, all made it no bed of roses.
The recreation yard was large and spacious, the food reputed to be the best in the US penal system; but the cells were tiny, depersonalisation and loss of identity were the norm. Prisoners were numbers, not names. As we walk today through the corridor the inmates nicknamed “Broadway” and round into a second hallway, the wind is pounding the walls. In its days as a federal prison, there was no glass in the upper windows, with open bars on the cells facing the same wall. That icy, howling wind would hammer right into those cells, 24/7.
All the while, the sounds of San Francisco nightlife drifted across the water, taunting the prisoners that an ordinary world was tangibly close yet totally unreachable. In its 30 years as a federal penitentiary, there were no confirmed successful escapes (though three escapees were never found, presumed drowned but still on the US wanted list), five suicides and eight murders, plus one notable riot in which two prison officers lost their lives.
Alcatraz Island, “The Rock” to prisoners, is one incredibly windy island, but, with no mammal predators, bird life is spectacular, with seabirds roosting and nesting in huge numbers. The gigantic colony of Brandt’s cormorants is so huge that it’s reminiscent of penguins on an island rock.
Our San Francisco days begin cold and foggy, there really isn’t any need to rush breakfast. Cold winds howl, moisture from the fog wets our faces, tops of buildings disappear. Alcatraz ghosts in and out of view. Somewhere around 1pm the sun breaks through and within minutes it’s warm, too warm for the clothes we’re already committed to. At about 6pm, the cotton wool fog once again wraps itself around the skyscrapers, the mercury drops quickly, and darkness falls with the temperature. The warm, long, polished bars with their numerous draft beers are suddenly calling. The next morning it’s cold and foggy, there really isn’t any need to rush breakfast…..
This is only part of our time in San Francisco. Rest to follow in next post.
38 Comments
Nemorino
My one visit to Alcatraz was in 1970,when the island was occupied by a group of American Indians (It still says “Indians welcome” on one of your photos). I went over with some colleagues to set up a transmitter, so they could broadcast a live report every evening on our radio station.
Phil & Michaela
Now that’s a PROPER connection to a place with an enormous history. We read all about the occupation of the island and its ultimate success. How treat to have played a role in that event.
Gilda Baxter
I loved this post, your enthusiasm for this city is great. I have wanted to visit San Fran for a very long time, your description takes me there. Your flight over the city sounds amazing. How many days would you recommend to spend there?
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Gilda! Well we’ve had five full days here – there’s still things we haven’t done but we’re ready to move on as well, so we would say five days is probably about right. No less than that, anyway!
Heyjude
Ah, yes, the joy of falling in love with San Francisco. One day you will have to read my post about my love affair. And reading about the cold and the fog I am beginning to think that my visits in the month of February weren’t so bad at all! If I was to have a ride in a seaplane than I would choose flying over to Vancouver Island from Vancouver. We considered that as a way of getting to the island until we realised we had too much luggage weight. I do hope you have been to Buena Vista for an Irish coffee, they are definitely the best.
Annie Berger
Your post should win an award by the San Francisco Visitors Bureau as I can’t imagine a more beautifully written description of the city and its environs, Phil! Even I who was just there a few months ago want to return after the excellent read and great photos! Never thought of a seaplane ride over the city – thanks for that tour.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you for those lovely words Annie, much appreciated. The seaplane adventure was absolutely brilliant. As you can tell, San Francisco has been a joy.
Phil & Michaela
It’s been great here, Jude – but as we said at the end, the day heats up after cold starts. Evenings are pretty chilly.
wetanddustyroads
That’s some way to see San Francisco! And the views are equally good … whether it’s from the plane or the cable car. Great to see how you explore SF – thank you for taking us with you guys!
Phil & Michaela
It’s pretty good here!
Andrew Petcher
Looks fabulous, Alcatraz looks well worth a visit.
Phil & Michaela
The whole city is great, Andrew, and yes, Alcatraz is extremely interesting
Monkey's Tale
San Francisco is undoubtedly my favourite US city. Sounds like you’re loving it too. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
We are indeed, Maggie, our time here has been great!
Toonsarah
I think Annie has nailed it with her comment – you’re completely selling this city both to anyone who’s never visited and those of us who have and now long to go back! We once did a seaplane ride, from Vancouver Island – flying low over grey whales is incredible, but now I want to do one here to see the Golden Gate from the air!
We did have a special experience at Alcatraz, meeting a reformed former inmate who had written a book and was in the gift shop for a signing. Of course we had to buy a copy!
Phil & Michaela
It’s been great here Sarah – actually I was very tempted to by one of the books but we’re conscious of luggage weight so I demurred. I may order one for when we get home though.
Linda K
Yup San Francisco is one of the most picturesque cities that I’ve been to and seeing your pictures makes me realize it’s been too long since I’ve visited. You’ve definitely captured the beauty of the city and it has so much to offer the tourist. Alcatraz is so interesting and the contrast with the mainland would definitely have been part of what made it so isolating.
Phil & Michaela
What a great city!
Mike and Kellye Hefner
We are loving your trip up the California coast and look forward to the next posts!
Phil & Michaela
We’re loving it too – thank you!
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
You have beautifully captured the essence of San Francisco through your words and photographs. I remember the first time I visited and how confusing it was to dress appropriately for the day. I think California might be the birthplace of ‘layered clothing.’ You certainly packed a lot into your time there. Why sea plane and not a helicopter? Just curious.
Phil & Michaela
Yes, exactly, Suzanne. I actually had a line in that post about that but edited it out. Just about warm enough in the morning, too hot in the afternoon, cold again when the sun goes down. Can answer the flight question easily…we had both seaplane and helicopter on our wish list, and we have both of them booked on this trip – the helicopter comes later where there is no sea…so seaplane it was!
Joe
Bravo Phil & Michaela! You have done such a beautiful job of experiencing San Francisco and writing so eloquently about it. I grew up in Marin County just north of Sausalito and passed the houseboats and sea plane port thousands of times, but have never gone for a ride. Flying low over the city must have been spectacular. I will have to add it to my bucket list. You seemed to have quickly mastered the public transport system and have already covered an amazing number of the city’s attractions. Can’t wait to read about what other gems you’ve discovered in your next edition.
Phil & Michaela
Aw thanks Joe, wow we were very close to your home town then. Passed through Marin County again today as it happens. Yes there’s more SF stories to come. Great, great city.
MrsWayfarer
I can’t get enough of San Francisco. Your adventure covered much, well done!
grandmisadventures
what an incredible way to view such an incredible city! Alcatraz is always an interesting tour and seeing some of the ways the inmates made their cells feel a little more ‘homey’ so to speak. Great pictures of the city!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, it was fabulous
WanderingCanadians
I’ve never been on a seaplane before. It looks like such a neat way to explore the city from a different point of view. Your pictures are beautiful.
Phil & Michaela
It was a terrific experience
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Glad you made it to the rock! We never did the Seaplane tour when we lived there. Looks so fun and scenic!
Phil & Michaela
The seaplane was just plain brilliant!
giacomoasinello
Great post! And a great city too. Definitely in my top ten!
Phil & Michaela
It’s been fabulous!
Alison
Great views from the plane. Looks like you’re having great fun. Were you in an apartment?
Phil & Michaela
San Francisco already seems like a long time ago! No we were in a hotel for that spell…we decided to do San Francisco “properly” so booked an upper floor in a “posh”hotel. It as worth it for the fab views.
Alison
Yes I saw it was a while ago. I had to search for your posts! Even though I have notifications and emails checked.. weird
Phil & Michaela
Hmmm, some others have had difficulty at times too. If it persists try unfollowing and re-following, it worked for them.
Alison
I’ll try that 🙂