Going Large: From Monterey to San Francisco
A few miles south of Monterey across the peninsula lies the celebrated, Clint Eastwood-famed town of Carmel-by-the-Sea, nestling amongst the tall pines and cypress trees and looking out across the Pacific. There’s no mistaking, even at first glance, that this is one seriously wealthy town, as exquisite and well presented as it is possible to imagine. Almost too perfect.
The pristine, gleaming main street slopes downhill through the trees to an immaculate white sand beach where the Pacific rollers roar and rumble; on its leafy streets Carmel must surely set a world record for the number of art galleries per square mile. Every garden seems manicured and well stocked, every house well maintained, every shop upmarket. We glance in the window of a “realtor”. 3 million dollar single storey house? You got it. 11 million dollar seafront property? You got it…
From Carmel we take the renowned 17-Mile Drive around Pebble Beach and the peninsula, passing Spanish Bay and several golf courses. We’re not sure which is the most spectacular: the stunning coastal views, the wildlife (birds, seals, sea lions and deer), or the billionaire homes peeping from between the trees. No wonder this drive – you have to pay a toll just to enter the road – has garnered its reputation as a must-do.
Having left our planned boat trip until what is forecast to be the brightest day, there’s a bit of a scare as the skipper ponders cancelling today’s trips – apparently the seas are rough out there. In the end they decide it’s on, but our briefing prior to boarding includes instructions on how and where to be ill if you’re seasick, including the line, “if you can, go for distance, and feed the fish”. Nice.
This is the 100ft Atlantis, one of Monterey’s whale watching boats, which hits the rolling waves pretty much as soon as we leave the protection of the harbour wall and pass the baying sea lions on the rocks. What we are then privileged to witness leaves no room for anything as mundane as seasickness: it is an absolutely thrilling two-and-a-half hours.
Over and over again the humpback whales perform what our narrator refers to as surface behaviours, with tail and flipper slaps and body breaches common and repeated sights. A mum and her calf seem to play endlessly in the choppy sea, for a while joined by another adult whale, giving us fantastic views of these giant mammals which are way beyond our expectations for the trip. Their performance is so good that Michaela captures several terrific shots…
The sun is powerful but of course it’s cold on deck, so the delicious clam chowder on the wharf afterwards gives us chance to sit and chat through all we have just seen. What a great experience.
OK so the seafood here in California is on a different level. Soft white fish, great chowder, delicious shellfish and the tenderest calamari we’ve ever eaten. Mussels to die for. And then there’s craft beers and California wines. And mac’n’cheese. But crispy fried brussels sprouts with lime juice and pecorino? Yep, you got it.
As we pack up in readiness to leave Monterey, it’s pretty obvious that we got lucky: after enjoying several bright sunny days in our time here, the fog has rolled right in this morning and it’s considerably colder. Off next to San Francisco, via a brief lunch stop in the pleasant town of Palo Alto.
Travelling California is not easy on the wallet – this will be our most expensive trip to date by some distance – accommodation is pricey, eating out is high cost, even coffees and beer will hit your budget hard. But one of the shocks when we were at the planning stage was the cost of parking the car in downtown San Francisco: get this – the handy parking near our hotel would cost more than any accommodation we had in either Egypt or Tunisia. Yep, more for the car to sleep than it’s been costing us!
Our solution was to leave the car in the long stay car park at San Francisco Airport, where the cost for five nights is only marginally more than a single night in the city centre. So our not-cheap hired Chevvy will now sit waiting for us at SFO for a few days while we explore this iconic city.
Coming into the centre on the efficient BART train is quick and easy, the cost for once reasonable, particularly for me as an over 65 (62.5% discount!); our hotel room has such sensational views from the 25th floor across the city to the bay that we spend our first few minutes just gazing in awe through the window.
And so we begin our SF adventure, securing our “Clipper” cards for public transport and within the first hour taking our first streetcar ride to Fishermans Wharf, followed by a wander along the seafront, up through Washington Square to North Beach. Fishermans Wharf is an exaggerated, slightly overblown version of its Monterey namesake. Or maybe Monterey is a modified version of this one.
Despite its name, North Beach isn’t a beach but is a series of downtown streets with more Italian restaurants than your average Italian town, red, white and green everywhere and the smell of pizza in the air. Our pasta is OK, they give us a free beer.
Proper bone chilling cold winds blow in off the harbour and the grey fog descends as the sun abandons its job for the day. It’s cold well before dark. Later, as we watch the city lights from our 25th floor vantage point, the fog lifts a little and the skyscrapers seem to do what their name suggests. Coit Tower glows rainbow colours in sequence.
This is going to be an amazing part of our California adventure.
31 Comments
mochatruffalo
Great shot of a nice breach!
Monkey's Tale
You were so lucky with the weather and the whales! So funny that the airport parking is cheaper than downtown! 🤣 Maggie
Steven Berger
Great pictures. Glad you got to see the whales. It’s a highlight.
wetanddustyroads
Oh … I think I’ll pass on buying a house in Carmel-by-the-Sea (and go car-less in SF) – rather enjoy the white sandy beach! What a fabulous display by the whales – great photo’s! And the views from your room in SF – just lovely!
Phil & Michaela
Little bit pricey huh
wetanddustyroads
Yeah, just a little bit 😁.
Andrew Petcher
But, did you see iconic Clint?
Phil & Michaela
The more we looked, the more we couldn’t find him.
Heyjude
Wow, so lucky to see those whales! I have never hired a car in SF – only picked one up when heading out of the city – I used the public transport a lot, it is cheap and easy to use. Vancouver is the same with parking costs, if you ever find yourself there! Do visit the Coit tower for the views and the murals which are magnificent.
Phil & Michaela
Yes, on both counts, this time! Using the rather wonderful public transport lots (an essential thing in SF) and visited Coit Tower yesterday. Fabulous views.
Toonsarah
Oh wow, those whale photos! I’ve seen whales many times but I’m green with envy nevertheless – these beat any shots I’ve ever managed to get by a mile!
As to the rest, lots of good memories of our trip. We enjoyed the 17-Mile Drive, were not particularly impressed by Carmel, and loved San Francisco despite having cold murky weather for most of our stay. We got around the parking issue by managing to find a budget motel with parking included in a decent spot for public transport. I doubt you could do the same these days. Oh no, I tell a lie – I just checked and it’s still in business but considerably spruced up: https://www.marinamotel.com/
Phil & Michaela
The public transport system is a big part of the fun of being here, isn’t it – loving it! The whales were just incredible. So far in SF it’s cold foggy mornings but bright and sunny afternoons, so not too bad.
Mike and Kellye Hefner
I’m basically jumping up and down, clapping my hands, and cheering. Not really, but I want to!! Phil and Michaela, your post practically put me (Kellye) in the Chevvy with you. Your photos are fabulous, your storytelling exceptional… and those whale pictures! We have been on several whale watching tours – even in Alaska – and have never seen them surface as they did in their show for you. Thanks so much for sharing.
Phil & Michaela
Wow, thanks Kellye, lovely comments. Oh those whales were incredible, we absolutely loved it.
Linda K
Wow those shots of the humpback whales are spectacular! Definitely some of the best I’ve ever seen. You were very lucky to get so many wonderful shots. San Francisco is a wonderful city…enjoy your stay there.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Linda – it was a great experience, those whales really put on a show
Linda K
We sometimes see orcas when taking the ferry from the mainland to Vancouver Island and it’s thrilling every time it happens!
Phil & Michaela
Wow I bet it is
Joe
Amazing photos of the breaching Humpback, Michaela! They sure put on a show, but catching one in mid-flight takes skill, good timing and a little luck. What a view from your San Francisco hotel window! You are smart to ditch the car, take BART and Muni, or just walk the hilly but compact city by the bay. I am also happy that you got Fisherman’s Wharf out of the way first. In my opinion, it is probably one of the least attractive parts of San Francisco. It is an incredible city, with so many places to explore. I can’t wait to see what you find.
Phil & Michaela
Hi Joe, oh boy we got lucky with those whales! Yes we agree – having been here a few days and having “done” Fishermen’s Wharf first, it’s just got better and better. We’ve had an amazing few days in foggy city, we have lots to report!
Alison
Bringing back memories Phil of our road trip there in 2015. I loved Monterey and Carmel. We spent the night in Salsalito. Like you we found the accommodation prices extremely expensive. I didn’t get San Francisco though and didn’t see what the fuss was about. Are you going to the Napa Valley, that’s a beautiful place to see. Also we enjoyed Alcatraz.
What a treat seeing all the whales. Fantastic views from your hotel
Phil & Michaela
Yes, Napa Valley is next call after SF. Conversely to your experience, we’ve had a fabulous time in SF, with some amazing experiences. I wonder if maybe you didn’t stay long enough to “get” it, because it’s definitely got better and better the longer we’re here. Even with the fog…
Alison
I think it’s because we spent too much time at Union Square
My dear hubby managed to steer us that way every time, he’s a shopaholic
Phil & Michaela
Oh yes I remember you mentioning in previous posts that hubby’s an addictive shopper. Not a trait which I share!
Alison
Not many men do, I am the envy of my friends
grandmisadventures
Beautiful pictures of Pebble Beach. I really love all the old missions in California each of them with stories to tell. Amazing that you got to see the whales so close! And San Francisco will definitely leave you understanding why there’s that old song about leaving your heart in San Francsisco 🙂
Phil & Michaela
We’ve just left after five days in the foggy bay. Absolutely totally loved it. What a city!
WanderingCanadians
Beautiful captures of the whales. And yay, you finally had clear skies and no fog!
Phil & Michaela
Yeahhh!!!
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Great photos. If you get a chance eat some Dungeness crab!
Phil & Michaela
Unfortunately we didn’t do that – but we ate literally (it seemed) tons of good seafood