Crete: More Of The Western End
Dawn is greeted at our apartment in the same way as it is throughout Hania, with the cacophonous rasping of a billion cicadas, in all our travels we haven’t ever heard a day-long chorus at a decibel level such as this. But dawn also heralds consistency: August in Crete is a delight of clear blue skies throughout the day, we are yet to see our first real cloud in seven days here.
Mercifully though the heat is less intense than during the heatwave on the mainland: days here have varied between 32 and 38 but the cooling Meltemi wind blows in each afternoon to make every day just simply lovely.
With a hire car now at our disposal, we venture into the mountains west of Hania, visiting quaint mountain villages and discovering the beautifully peaceful Gonia Odigitria monastery, occupying an amazing clifftop position surely as good as any other monastery, anywhere.
Gonia Odigitria monastery 
Gonia Odigitria monastery
Ancient Paintings 
Dropping down the steep and twisting lanes from the mountains we take the old road back to Hania, expecting to pass through traditional villages and perhaps catch an authentic taverna. In stark reality though, this coastal road through Platanias and Agia Marina is a mess of tourism with multiple opportunities for crazy golf, go karting, German beer and pizza. It’s a million miles from authentic Greek island and not a place we’d be in a hurry to see again.
By complete contrast our second road trip takes us deep into the heart of the rural west on a fantastic drive over the White Mountains towards Omelos. The mountain scenery on this amazing route is breathtaking in the extreme, the dramatic sweeps and soaring peaks causing us to stop and stare at regular intervals.
As we come around one hairpin, a village appears high up on the next ridge, looking down on the gorges way below as if majestically controlling the terrain. Pulling over to take in this wonderful sight, we can clearly hear the voices of villagers at work and the clanging bells of the goats, even though they are about a mile away across the valley.
This village is Laki, one of those perfect mountain villages where the pace is slow and time stands still; tractors sit between rustic buildings, sleeping dogs find shade and the village elders sip morning drinks. We pause here for coffee ourselves and just sit looking across the most incredible view from the cafe and wonder just how life is here, farming in mountainous terrain where hot summers precede deep snow.
Coffee is accompanied by a local favourite, pita sfakiana, a kind of cheese pie with honey, a slightly odd mix that I think works rather well, though Michaela doesn’t agree. Beyond Laki, and through Omelos, we take in the views from the trail head at Samaria Gorge, a famous walking trail which Michaela completed years ago. It’s just as well we’re not intending to do it today: the whole trail is closed due to fire risk.
It’s early afternoon by the time we reach Palaiochora on the south coast and enjoy a first dip in the Libyan Sea. Palaiochora sits on a narrow promontory, meaning that the two beaches on either side of the town are only three minutes walk apart. Between the two beaches, this small town boasts a leafy square, great fish restaurants (yes, we absolutely had to!), crumbling kastro remains and plenty of accommodation. Positioned between the mountains and the sea, this may be a holiday destination, but it is a peaceful and friendly one and a world away from the overblown resorts we saw yesterday.
Palaiochora 
Palaiochora 
Palaiochora 
Palaiochora
For our last day and last road trip whilst based at the western end of Crete we take the drive to probably Crete’s most famous attraction, Knossos Palace. Knossos was the grandest palace of the Minoan civilisation on the island, the heart of a great city and home to the great and the good of that race.
Knossos Palace 
Storage jars
Despite its grandeur and famous murals, our visit is a disappointment. For reasons best known to themselves, the authorities’ reaction to COVID has been to shut down large sections of the site and channel all visitors through a one-way system, meaning that instead of the crowds spreading around the site, everyone is crammed together in small spaces, particularly around the murals. Not only does this seem self defeating from the pandemic angle, it also means that we pay the full entrance fee to see about a fifth of the site.
Over the last couple of days the Meltemi wind has really upped her game, bringing crashing white surf to the already spectacular northern coastline, sandblasting us at Palaiochora and giving us some playful waves at Georgioupoli.
And so our time in Hania draws to a close. Next up is a journey across to the east of the island, a journey which has presented some challenges in just slotting the pieces together.
21 Comments
normareadtalktalknet
Absolutely wonderful , fabulous experiences 😍
Phil & Michaela
Its a fabulous trip 😍
Linda K
The village of Palaiochora looks so pretty! Just love those white buildings and the pop of colour from the water views. What a wonderful holiday you are having!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Linda, its lovely, we think it would have a fabulous atmosphere in the evening in the tiny square 😊
Andrew Petcher
Knossos was one of my favourites!
Phil & Michaela
A different experience of it, no doubt!
Toonsarah
I like the look of Palaiochora and having eaten cheese with honey in Italy (and enjoyed the combination), I’d be curious to try that pie. A shame about the one way system at Knossos though. Looking forward to seeing what you find at the other end of the island. We spent a pleasant week in Matala on the south coast, many years ago 🙂
Phil & Michaela
The pie goes very well with strong Greek coffee – which Michaela is also not keen on!
Annie Berger
What a fun read about your daily explorations from your base in Hania – the monastery was sublime, the town catering to tourists who might as well stayed home if they simply wanted to recreate their home, life, but then a village that was the reason you both came to Crete that was uniquely Greek!
Phil & Michaela
Yes absolutely. Hania was very lovely but very very busy….it’s been good to hit quieter places since we moved on.
Lookoom
Charming villages met along the road, it is always surprising that so many beautiful places are waiting for us to pass by although they would merit a better reputation. Thanks for the report.
Phil & Michaela
Love discovering a cool mountain village
grandmisadventures
those painting in the monastery and the palace are incredible! Unbelievable that something that old is so well preserved to this day. Great post! 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Thank you!
Phil & Michaela
Yes, how well preserved they are is really incredible
leightontravels
Enjoyed catching up with your most recent Greek adventures. Have actually been to Crete several times, but haven’t seen most of the sights in this article (we did stay in Georgioupoli. though). It all looks delightful and worth braving the heat for, especially the monastery and palace.
Phil & Michaela
Heat has actually subsided nicely now, every day is just plain lovely in the warm sun and gentle breeze
Latitude Adjustment
The night shot of Chanda is spectacular! Looks like a lot of the archeology sites have been improved! Cheers!
wetanddustyroads
Love the look of the monastery and the views of Palaiochora … it looks as if you two are really enjoying your getaway in the sun!
rkrontheroad
Knossos was fascinating, those storage jars speak to me as a former potter! I found I kept doubling back on the path there, unwilling to follow the route as prescribed. Imagining the city and culture there… Being able to explore by car is truly the best way, as you travel on.
Phil & Michaela
Yes I think the COVID squeeze made the one way system a very short path, so our chance to enjoy was a bit limited. I can see why you’d be even more fascinated as a former potter – that would change how you look at so many artefacts, if you know how hard they would be to create !