Raging Atlantic sea, Cornwall
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Storm Ciarán & Friends

By Tuesday the TV news is full of it. Never mind the wars raging in both Europe and the Middle East, there is, it seems, a storm heading towards Britain which is akin to the four horsemen of the apocalypse powering across the Atlantic to wreak devastation on our forlorn shores. Storm Ciarán, somebody somewhere has decided.

View of raging Atlantic and Constantine bay in Cornwall during Storm Ciarán
Stormy seas

With Ciarán due to enter the fray Wednesday night into Thursday, we bring our plans forward by 24 hours and make the 350-mile 6-hour drive to Cornwall ahead of those “essential travel only” messages which will no doubt soon boom across the nation. We hole up, batten down, listen to the wind as it starts to howl and then to the rain as it starts to lash.

View of raging Atlantic and Treyarnon,in Cornwall during Storm Ciarán
Stormy seas

In the end, it’s not too bad here – Cornwall’s north coast turns out to be lee side of Ciarán’s venom and the other, southern, coast fares far worse. One guaranteed consequence of the battering winds round here is a violent, powerful Atlantic which is a joy to watch, its immense power reminding us every second that an ocean at its most playful is an unbeatable and deadly opponent. And a joy to behold from afar.

View of raging Atlantic near Treyarnon in Cornwall during Storm Ciarán
Stormy seas and Atlantic surf

To watch is to thrill, surf crashing over the rocks, waves tossed high by jarring collision, balls of foam lifted by the wind and strewn along the coastal path. The conjoined roar of wind and sea is a deafening combination. Below us, the sea writhes, wrestles and pounds; above us, gulls fly one way, wings beating hard but making no progress against the onslaught, then oyster catchers hurtle in the opposite direction like mini jet fighters at full throttle.

View of raging Atlantic near Treyarnon in Cornwall during Storm Ciarán
Stormy seas

The Atlantic is the star of this spectacular show. Steel grey meets brilliant white, beauty meets unstoppable force, rage meets frivolity. For a while we want to watch this all day, until horizontal rain pounds our faces with icy darts and sends us running for shelter; laughing, exhilarated, energised.

Bracing the wind near Treyarnon in Cornwall during Storm Ciarán
In the wind
Bracing the wind near Treyarnon in Cornwall during Storm Ciarán

Later, sipping Tribute in the Old Custom House, our meeting with Ciarán gets us talking, soon remembering storms we’ve encountered on our travels around the world…

Korcula Town, Korcula island, Croatia, 2020, and without doubt the wettest Michaela’s ever been with her clothes on. We’d gone our separate ways, Michaela shopping and me exploring, when the sky turned as black as night, lightning flashed…and the heavens opened. I made it home while Michaela sheltered in a church, waiting for a lull in the storm in which to dash home. She mistimed it, arriving at the the door completely, utterly drenched – and cursing. I laughed, of course.

Korcula Town, Croatia
Korcula Town

Gytheio, Greece, 2021, the last night of our long Greek summer. The storm raged for hours, through the evening and overnight, trees bending and thunder crashing. Come morning, there were no breakfasts, cafe owners more concerned with clearing collapsed awnings, wrecked furniture and smashed signs than heating up spanakopita or making coffee.

Gytheio, Greece
Gytheio with storm approaching

Veracruz, Mexico, where trees fell and the rain lashed the windows all night, and in the morning we came downstairs to find the whole of the ground floor of the apartment under several inches of water.

Luang Prabang, Laos where a mini cyclone turned the roads into rivers, where shopkeepers used whatever implement they could find to push the floodwaters away from their doorways.

Volos, Greece, where from the deck of the ferry we were able to watch a thunder storm rear up and rage immediately above the orange of the setting sun, every passenger running to port side to see the incredible spectacle.

Thunderstorm at sunset in the Mediterranean near Volos
Sunset beneath the thunderstorm, Volos

Saigon, where the storm presented Michaela with one of her most notable photographs…

Storm in Saigon ( Hoi Chi Minh City)  Vietnam
Rain in Saigon

Quepos, Costa Rica. Unable to even get out of the bar with the torrential rain pelting down, we took up the offer of our kind host and called him for a ride home. Full of excitement, Reymar took us out into his garden where, in the torrential rain, two sloths were balanced on the wire, their typically slow movements even more enchanting in the dark and the rain.

Sloth in a storm in Quepos, Costa Rica
Sloth in the rain, Quepos

And finally, and most dramatically, Kuala Tehan in Malaysia, the ultimate storm experience, where we were struck by lightning and lived to tell the tale. Struck by lightning in the jungle, our home blitzed, in the all too literal meaning of that word. Now that WAS a unique experience. You can read about that one here….

Boat restaurants in Kuala Tehan, Malaysia
Kuala Tehan
Mist in the trees, morning after a storm in Kuala Tehan, Malaysia
Kuala Tehan, the morning after

Storms can be great to watch, great to see, as long of course as you come out unscathed. And with a story or two to tell…

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