Photography,  Travel Blog,  Wales,  Walking

Nostalgia Trip #6: Llanon Memories

It’s about 50 years since my childhood trips to Mid Wales began, 50 years since my Nan and Grandad first bought a static caravan at Llanon on the Welsh coast. Perched on the cliff, overlooking the Atlantic sea, Cliff Edge Caravan Park holds wonderful memories for me, family holidays, fun and adventure. But more than this, the place for me and my Nan to form a special bond during our times alone there together. 

Llanon Beach

This rocky shore was my playground, rocks circling a pool created by monks way back when in order to catch sprats and other delights of the Atlantic. Prawning and picking shellfish off the rocks, cooking and eating our delicious catch, that was what I loved this beach for. Collecting bucket loads of crabs and having crab races in the caravan. They were supposed to start in the kitchen and run out of the door, how was I to know then that they ran sideways, crabs in the bedrooms, giggling as I scrambled under the beds to catch them. Nan joining in, anything was OK at the van, anything was allowed, stuff you weren’t allowed to do at home, it was a child’s paradise.

A hearty chicken stew for dinner “come on bab, lets play Henry the 8th” and we would throw the gnawed chicken bones over our shoulders, later collecting the bones strewn all over the place.

“Come on bab, lets go for a midnight swim, the tide is right tonight” and we would make our way in our cozzies in the darkness, guided by the light of our torches to the slipway where we would swim in the cold Atlantic water. It was dark but I doubt it was really midnight. It was pure magic.

“no, of course you don’t have to wash today, just don’t tell your Mum”.

The van was our special place, a place to do what we wanted, a place with no rules. A place with our own made up address… Cliff Edge Caravan Park, Shrimp Place, Crab Cove, Llanon, Wales. Our place in heaven. 

Me with a friend & dogs at the van…. many years ago

Today we drive down the narrow lane, already aware that the caravan park has long gone, Billy Bell the owner is long dead and the old farmhouse much changed.  We park at the pebble beach, my playground as a child. It’s a bittersweet moment stepping onto the beach, the smell of the seaweed instantly transporting me back to my childhood. It has never been a pretty beach but it holds so many memories. In truth it is a little scrubby, and now I see they have tried to put in sea defences as the cliff crumbled away 6 inches a year but this in its decay has made it look even more uncared for.  The beach I once loved as a child, the beach in my memories that was full of life is very different now. The laughter of children, the activity on the slipway, the men launching boats, bringing the early catch of fresh mackerel and pollock onto the site to share with us for breakfast, all the activity, all long gone. Now the pebbles sit in silence, the slipway lies broken. There’s one solitary dog walker, and us.

The broken slipway
Remnants of Cliff Edge Caravan Park

Llanon beach is now a deserted place, perhaps even desolate, and certainly not pretty, but the rock pools remain, the scent of the seaweed hasn’t changed, I can close my eyes and I am that child, I can almost hear Nan’s voice in the lapping of the waves. Never mind what this place has now become; for me it is filled with memories of pure joy, of childhood delight. Nothing can steal my wonderful memories.

Nothing.

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