Syros: From West Coast To East

Unlike Tinos, Meltemi here on Syros behaves in a more typical way; nothing in the morning, a gentle breeze rising through the afternoon, then tailing off for the evening. That’s more like the Meltemi we know of old.

So after yesterday’s chill time followed by beer and cocktails in a very cool bar (Cougars) and a seafront evening meal, we are recharged today and take on an exploration suggested by our host Yiannis. We take the bus to Alithini on the mountain top and begin our trek to Ano Syros. The view  is fantastic, the ancient village of Ano Syros is across the valley and topped by a grand church looking down over the bay, the white washed houses tumble down the mountainside spilling out into the sprawling port town of Ermoupoli.

The uneven stone path leads us through the countryside, parched ground and the remnants of terraced farming. Dry stone walls keep goats and ponies at bay, cockerels crow.  Olive trees ladened with olives not yet ready for harvest, fig trees with juicy fruit ripe for  picking, the scent of mountain herbs drifting on the breeze, swallowtail butterflies dancing through the air, cats sprawl out enjoying the morning sun. It’s very peaceful here.

Ano Syros is the island’s oldest settlement, once a fortified town huddled behind protective walls high above the sea, its church and monastery standing proud above the clustered houses. The centre is extremely well preserved and again so peaceful. So peaceful in fact that the cafe owners are still asleep and we can’t even get a frappe.

From there we drop down to Ermoupoli, where we confirm our first impressions on arrival the other day: this is a very attractive town. The bay sweeps, riviera style, restaurants lining the curve, deep blue sea lapping the shore. Neo classical buildings look proudly out to the ocean; venture a few yards inland to discover leafy squares, tight streets and vibrant shops and stalls.

Syros residents are rightly proud of Ermoupoli, in fact they claim it to be the most beautiful “city” in all of Greece. We can’t make a comment on that, but it is certainly hugely attractive. 

So it’s a fish lunch again- how good is retsina as a fish accompaniment- and the bus back to Kini in time for another swim. 

Kini is a fabulous location for sunsets, and we end our day again sipping beer and cocktail, marvelling at the changing orange shades of the sunset. 

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