-
Northern Sardinia: Garibaldi, Maddalena & Magical Moments
I know that traditionally Sardinian people are reputed to be small in size but the last two shower cubicles have been ridiculous, like they’ve been made with figures from a Lowry painting in mind. Once in, you move around at your peril: the slightest movement will make physical contact with either the glass cubicle (dangerous) or the shower controls, the consequence of which might be a scalded bum cheek, a frozen scalp or an abrupt end to the water flow. Any of these are possible. It’s a relief to come through it unscathed. Anyway, back to La Maddalena, the island across the strait from the town of Palau which looks…
-
Sardinia’s Eastern Coast: Orosei, Palau & La Maddalena Archipelago
I keep referring to the wind here as the Mistral, but it is in fact only wind in a certain direction which carries that name. Each wind, be it northerly, easterly, whatever, has a name in these parts, and there are seven in all, each with different characteristics and each bringing different weather. I guess when your livelihood – and indeed your life in the case of the fishermen – depends on such things, the knowledge bar needs to be high. The town of Orosei sits in the middle of a stretch of notoriously beautiful Sardinian coastline, rugged yet fertile, bold yet tranquil. The best way to view this stretch…
-
Nuraghe, Mountain Towns & Murals: Crossing Sardinia.
The nuraghe of Sardinia have been the subject of considerable debate over the years, with some disagreement over their original functions and purposes. According to what appears to be the current school of thought, and definitely the thrust of websites and guide books, the reason for the confusion is that the nuraghe were multi purpose and therefore inconsistent in design from one to the next. What is certain is that they are unique to Sardinia, that traces of over 10,000 have been identified, 7,000 of which are still standing in one form or another. Grain stores, fortresses, family homes, lookout posts, communal meeting places…all have been theories, each with strong…
-
Discovering A Real Gem: Bosa, Sardinia
Even the description “one of Italy’s most beautiful villages” doesn’t do justice to our first sight of this exquisite little town of just over 8,000 inhabitants, simply one of those places which brings out a wow or two at first sight. Bosa sits just a mile in from the sea on the banks of the Temo River, the only riverside town in all of Sardinia on the island’s only navigable river. Two ancient bridges span the Temo, colourful houses catch the sunshine, wooded hills surround the town, coastal cliffs are visible from the centre of town. It’s insanely attractive. Perched high above this beautiful scene at the best vantage point…
-
From Portugal To Sardinia Via A Learning Curve Or Two
For the true traveller there is something immensely satisfying about completing a long and convoluted journey independently, so the fact that this lengthy trek from Portugal to Sardinia goes without major hitch gives us plenty of reasons to be cheerful. A short walk to Olhão train station, a quick train ride to Faro town, followed by the Number 16 bus to the airport, brings us to the clutches of Ryanair, who cause the only moment of angst when the word “delayed” makes an unwelcome appearance on the departure board. We easily make up the lost time though when we land at Barcelona and find ourselves in what must be a…
-
Exploring The Algarve In High Season: Olhão, Tavira And Faro
The good news starts as soon as we arrive in Olhão. There, in the uppermost in-tray of the offices of our corporate airbnb host, is the Jiffy envelope I’ve been hoping to see, the one containing my replacement debit and credit cards and driving licence, all present and correct and ready for action. End of saga, at last. Incident forgotten. Having signed off in Carvoeiro with a proper Brits-on-holiday night, dancing to a very decent live band in the main square, we head along the Algarve coast to Olhão, a place recommended to us by, amongst others, Michaela’s Mum. Carvoeiro, holiday hotspot as it is, has been fun and we’ve…
-
From Setúbal To The Algarve
When we stumble more by luck than judgment on a tourist information office near the ferry point, the lady is more than eager to present us with a glossy booklet entitled “Setúbal, Portugal’s Best Kept Secret”. Well, there’s enough people here for it not to be called a secret, but, given how lovely the city and surrounding area is, it’s definitely surprising that Setúbal wouldn’t appear on most people’s list of favourite destinations in Portugal. It’s on ours, for sure. Setúbal has an old city centre of atmospheric narrow streets and alleys which open every now and again into exciting plazas (pracas) of varying sizes, each one buzzing with chatter…
-
Continuing South: Sintra, Lisbon & Setubal
Obviously we can’t risk having the documents – you know, those documents which were in my wallet when some light fingered asshole lifted it from my pocket on the Porto metro – delivered to an airbnb apartment, especially when our stays are so short. No need to worry, DHL’s website says it’s incredibly simple to have your package delivered to one of their “Service Centres” where they will hold it for collection. Our friend Jason back home is now in possession of my replacement documents, so we send him, as instructed on said website, to his local DHL man, who refuses to help Jason and tells him it can only…
-
Through Two Tourist Hotspots: Obidos & Sintra
Portugal is on fire. TV screens are filled with graphic footage of firefighters tackling any number of wildfire blazes throughout the interior and a state of emergency has been declared in some areas. Eyes in bars are glued to the screen, with much shaking of heads. On the train journey south from Braga, we pass under a gigantic smoke cloud drifting from some of those fires towards the coast, blocking out the sun for nearly an hour of the journey. After three changes and four trains – one of them unplanned as train number three unexpectedly aborts at Leiria – we alight at the rather remote station at Obidos which…
-
Around Northern Portugal: Lamego-Amarante-Braga
As you approach Amarante by the road from the main A4 motorway, you could be forgiven for wondering what all the fuss is about, for at this point the absolutely lovely old town is hidden behind an array of modern structures, traffic islands, concrete and steel. Walk no more than 200 yards from the bus station, turn in to Rua 31 Janeiro, pass the lively traditional tabernas and head towards the São Gonçalo Bridge, and yet another enchanting town quickly reveals itself. And oh wow is it lovely. Almost impossibly lovely. The Rio Tamega flows slowly through the centre – serenely slowly, except now and again when it skips over…
