The Hungry Travellers

Independent travel, food, photography and culture

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  • Phil & Michaela
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    • Bush Routes:
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    • Welcome To Dar
    • Were We Safe? Take A Look…
  • About this blog
  • Blog
  • Phil & Michaela
    • About Phil & Michaela
    • Our Philosophies
    • Travel bug – Michaela’s story
    • Travel bug – Phil’s story
    • Photography by Michaela
  • Destinations
    • Africa
      • Botswana 2024
      • Cape Verde 2023
      • Egypt 2022
      • Kenya 2024
      • Malawi 2024
      • MOROCCO 2016
      • Morocco 2023
      • Tunisia 2022
      • Zambia 2024
      • Zimbabwe 2024
    • The Americas
      • Argentina 2024
      • Bolivia 2025
      • BRAZIL 2024
      • California 2022
      • California & Arizona 2022
      • Costa Rica 2021/2022
      • Jamaica 2022
      • MEXICO 2018
      • Mexico & Belize 2022.
      • Panama 2022/2023
      • Peru 2025
      • USA 2024
    • Asia
      • Cambodia 2023
      • India 2017
      • India & Nepal 2023
      • India 2025
      • Laos 2020
      • MALAYSIA,TIOMAN ISLAND, SINGAPORE 2018
      • Philippines 2025
      • Singapore 2023
      • Thailand 2020
      • Turkey 2020
      • Turkey 2024
      • Vietnam 2020
      • Vietnam 2023
    • Europe
      • ALBANIA & KOSOVO 2016
      • Andorra 2023
      • Athens & The Cyclades 2019 – Tinos, Syros, Andros
      • AUSTRIA 2016
      • Corsica 2025
      • Croatia 2020
      • Cyprus 2023
      • France 2023
      • Greece 2021
      • Greece 2024
      • GREEK ISLANDS 2017 – SANTORINI, SIKINOS, FOLEGANDROS
      • ITALY 2019
      • LA PALMA 2018
      • LATVIA 2017
      • Milan & Switzerland 2023
      • POLAND 2016
      • Portugal 2025
      • Sardinia 2025
      • Spain 2023
    • MIDDLE EAST
      • Jordan 2019
      • Qatar 2025
    • CITIES.
      • Bologna & Rome 2022
      • BRUSSELS 2017
      • Budapest 2019
      • GENEVA 2018
      • VENICE 2017
      • Vilnius, Lithuania 2021
  • Travel Stories
    • Bush Routes:
    • Across Sri Lanka by tuk-tuk
    • A Different New Year’s Eve
    • Bobsleigh Run
    • Camels And Khaled
    • Hamadi
    • Into The Unknown
    • Lightning Strike
    • Our strange invitation
    • The Curious Tale Of The Day Bag And The Dress
    • The Dirty Plastic Bucket
    • The story of Mangala
    • Travel Stories: From The Boudoir To The Bosphorus
    • Travel Stories: The Nungwi Sunset
    • Welcome To Dar
    • Were We Safe? Take A Look…

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  • Africa,  Independent travel,  Photography,  Travel Blog

    The Boys Of Summer: More Tales From The Red Sea 

    April 15, 2022 /

    Camp Sunshine beach bar has its music on a loop – a loop which perhaps should be a little longer. It’s a good job I have my headphones, given that we can hear the music from both house and beach spot and the inoffensive MOTR run of Santana, Adele, Richard Marx etc is at a certain point rudely interrupted by Tom Jones’ “Delilah”. We feel a pang of guilt laying here soaking up the sun while poor Tom is about to be arrested for stabbing his Mrs to death. We think we might know where we’re going wrong with the all-inclusive thing. I remember chatting in a hotel bar in…

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    Phil & Michaela 21 Comments

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    In Deeper: To The Sacred City Of Kairouan 

    April 30, 2022
    Elephants in Moreme game reserve Botswana

    Northwards To Maun And The Okavango Delta

    October 1, 2024

    Last Days In Egypt: Exploring The Reef

    April 18, 2022
  • Africa,  History,  Independent travel,  Photography,  Travel Blog

    Legal Aliens: Englishmen In Resort

    April 14, 2022 /

    Day 3 at Camp Sunshine (not its real name) brings an increase in the sea breeze and the nations’ flags between the restaurant and the beach are flapping furiously – though there’s not a Union Jack or a St Georges anywhere to be seen in the collection. Colours are to the fore: the deep brown suntans of those Germans presumably nearing the end of their stay clashing with the frighteningly red raw faces and shoulders of the newcomers who’ve done too much sun too soon. They must be suffering. There’s also the sky blue – not the sea or the sky but the shiny sky blue of our wrist bands…

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    Phil & Michaela 21 Comments

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    Mombasa Tusks

    Last Call In Kenya: Mombasa, Its History And Its Surprises

    August 7, 2024
    Sunset at Lake Malawi from Cape Maclear

    Lake Malawi Days

    August 18, 2024

    Going Underground: Matmata

    May 10, 2022
  • Africa,  Independent travel,  Photography,  Travel Blog

    Red Sea Coast And Other Stories 

    April 13, 2022 /

    We wander around the unfamiliar territory of a resort hotel like two kids on their first day at a new school, not knowing what we’re meant to do or how the whole thing works. When researching where to stay round here, we’d had to Google the term “animation team”, as it meant nothing to us. It’s one of the things on our learning curve now. The barman speaks to us in German and is amazed when we say we’re English. He’s delighted, too, whispering that he’s a bit fed up with bad manners and it’ll be nice to have some “polite English” to serve for a change – make of…

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    Phil & Michaela 24 Comments

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    Chouwara Tannery in Fes, Morocco

    The True Face Of Fes

    October 3, 2023

    Cairo, Saqqara And The Pyramids 

    March 26, 2022

    Empty Roads, Desert Rain & Mirages: Matmata-Douz-Tozeur

    May 13, 2022
  • Africa,  Independent travel,  Photography,  Travel Blog

    Egypt So Far: The Not-So-Good Bits 

    April 12, 2022 /

    Three weeks into this North Africa adventure and we guess that in a way we’ve hit the pause button. Followers will know that we are now in the previously uncharted ground of a resort hotel, out here on the Red Sea coast, kind of into international tourist territory and outside of authentic Egypt. This is most unlike us, we never thought we’d be taking the resort hotel option, not in a million years. Apart from the practicalities – it was indeed hard to find a viable alternative – it’s fair to say that there have been other influences on this decision which mean that taking a break from Egypt isn’t…

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    Phil & Michaela 36 Comments

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    Chouwara Tannery in Fes, Morocco

    The True Face Of Fes

    October 3, 2023
    Viwe from the Zomba plateau, Malawi

    Beneath The Great Plateau: Exploring The City Of Zomba

    August 22, 2024

    In Deeper: To The Sacred City Of Kairouan 

    April 30, 2022
  • Africa,  History,  Independent travel,  Photography,  Travel Blog

    Aswan Days 

    April 11, 2022 /

    Sunrise in Aswan is fuzzy. The sand drifting across the Sahara and around the Nile Valley turns everything into an ochre tinted blur into which anything in the distance shimmers in and out of view. And at the end of the day, the sunset hints at beauty, but then turns a strangely pale yellow as if its paints have been thinned with water. In between the two, that ochre tinge to the day rarely departs. We had some pre-conceived ideas about Aswan which have proved to be completely inaccurate. Far from finding an increase on the rustic scale, Aswan has a river frontage sporting a number of hotels, a thoughtfully…

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    Phil & Michaela 29 Comments

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    Preparing the tuna on Tarrafal beach, Santiago Cape Verde

    Exploring Santiago: Northwards To Tarrafal

    December 1, 2023
    Pico do Fogo volcanoon Fogo Island Cape Verde

    To A Land Called Fire

    December 6, 2023
    White Rhino at Nakuru lake Kenya

    Stage Three: Lake Nakuru to Amboseli

    July 25, 2024
  • Africa,  History,  Independent travel,  Photography,  Transport,  Travel Blog

    Further South: Luxor To Aswan 

    April 7, 2022 /

    Luxor is definitely quieter as Saturday morning dawns and heralds the start of the sacred month of Ramadan. We’ve been told several times that the first day of Ramadan is a time for families, as first they fast together, and then later celebrate the passing of the first day with a convivial family meal as soon as the sunset call to prayer sounds.  True to form, in the last few moments before sundown, the previously bustling streets of Luxor are akin to those of a ghost town: no tuk-tuks, no taxis, no horses, litter blowing down the market street which yesterday was rammed with people. Then, two hours or so…

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    Phil & Michaela 21 Comments

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    That Was 2022

    December 31, 2022
    Hiking in the mountains of Santiago near Tarrafal

    Hikes And Histories: More Of Tarrafal

    December 3, 2023

    Last Days In Egypt: Exploring The Reef

    April 18, 2022
  • Africa,  History,  Independent travel,  Photography,  Travel Blog,  World food

    Concluding Cairo: Time To Move On 

    March 29, 2022 /

    Having visited parts of North Africa and the Middle East before, we know how common it is to see people spend a whole evening at an outdoor cafe table and only buy one mint tea all night, but here in Cairo there is another custom which has taken us by surprise: bringing your own food. Friends or families will occupy a cafe table all evening, order minimal coffee, tea or even just water, while tucking in to a bagful of food they’ve brought in from the bakers or from a takeaway, or even had delivered by courier to their table. How do these coffee houses make any money!? And as…

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    Phil & Michaela 17 Comments

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    Sunset over Tsavo East

    Safari Final Stage: Tsavo West & Tsavo East

    July 28, 2024
    Diani beach near Mombasa Kenya

    Diani Time: Mishaps & Monkey Business

    August 2, 2024

    First Days In Cairo 

    March 24, 2022
  • Africa,  History,  Independent travel,  Photography,  Transport,  Travel Blog,  World food

    First Days In Cairo 

    March 24, 2022 /

    It’s somehow passed us by that BA are no longer providing meals on short haul flights, and it seems a 5-hour flight is classified as short haul. So there’s nothing, and by the time we make Cairo we are living up to our hungry travellers moniker. Cairo isn’t a traffic jam, it’s a complete gridlock, a gridlock of drivers who possess neither patience nor any lane sense and it takes well over an hour to inch and nudge our way from airport to downtown apartment. Dusk arrives on the way, and the air fills with the echoing and haunting call to prayer from the multitude of mosques around the city,…

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    Phil & Michaela 29 Comments

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    Tarrafal, Santiago Cape Verde

    Concluding Cape Verde

    December 17, 2023

    To A Different World: Kairouan To Monastir 

    May 5, 2022
    Roman city of Volubilis in Morocco

    Meknes & Volubilis: Ancient Sights And Building Sites

    September 30, 2023
  • Africa,  England,  Independent travel,  Photography,  Travel Blog,  Walking

    Farewell To Cornwall: Next Stop Cairo 

    March 18, 2022 /

    As ever, we have loved this visit to Cornwall. Spring seems to have dawned before our eyes, colours have intensified, and Padstow, the estuary, the coast path…have all been as wonderful as ever. We always feel so at home here. We conclude our time here by climbing to the top of Brea Hill, the highest point in the area and consequently one of the best places from which to view the estuary. As we climb, we are again at low tide, vast reaches of golden sand either side of the river’s narrow channel where in just a few short hours water will stretch right across the divide. Windshields and windows…

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    Phil & Michaela 20 Comments

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    To A Different World: Kairouan To Monastir 

    May 5, 2022
    Chouwara Tannery in Fes, Morocco

    The True Face Of Fes

    October 3, 2023

    Empty Roads, Desert Rain & Mirages: Matmata-Douz-Tozeur

    May 13, 2022
  • Independent travel,  Photography,  Travel Blog

    Hungry for more……

    February 25, 2022 /

    It’s nearly three weeks now since we returned from our Costa Rica and California trip, three weeks in which we’ve visited family, spent time with Michaela’s Mum, hugged granddaughters and taken in a couple of football matches. In other words, three weeks in which we’ve covered most of our reasons to be in England and so now we’ve started to once again get itchy about travel.  It goes without saying, now anyway, that the two years since we retired to travel the world haven’t quite gone according to plan, but we think we can look back and say we’ve been pretty resourceful and, in fact, the travels we have managed…

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    Phil & Michaela 18 Comments

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    Serifos, And A Rethink

    August 8, 2021
    Rua banana Banana Street Cidade Velha Santiago Cape Verde

    Cidade Velha: Where Cape Verde Began

    December 9, 2023
    Raging Atlantic sea, Cornwall

    Storm Ciarán & Friends

    November 5, 2023
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