Sardinia’s Eastern Coast: Orosei, Palau & La Maddalena Archipelago
I keep referring to the wind here as the Mistral, but it is in fact only wind in a certain direction which carries that name. Each wind, be it northerly, easterly, whatever, has a name in these parts, and there are seven in all, each with different characteristics and each bringing different weather. I guess when your livelihood – and indeed your life in the case of the fishermen – depends on such things, the knowledge bar needs to be high.
The town of Orosei sits in the middle of a stretch of notoriously beautiful Sardinian coastline, rugged yet fertile, bold yet tranquil. The best way to view this stretch is of course from the sea, so consequently Orosei is the base for a number of operators offering spectacular tours – the main, though not the only, reason we chose Orosei as our next billet. With a little twist of irony, the Mistral, or whichever of its cohorts is blowing this week, is too strong, and all boat trips are cancelled for the whole length of our stay. Bit of a bummer but you can’t outwit nature, can you.
Stuck for something to fill a half day, we explore some of the coast by road, where the beaches can be summarised in three pairs of words: howling gale, red flags, crashing waves. Just a kilometre or so inland, the wind is less aggressive and Orosei turns, unusually for an island, humid, particularly in the afternoons as heavy cloud gathers and storms threaten but never materialise.
Driving along the coast we do catch glimpses of its wonder and can only imagine the scenes the boat trip would have granted had it happened. Orosei is a small, pleasant town where the afternoon siesta and late night dining, long time staple characteristics of the Mediterranean lifestyle, are still very much in evidence: the stalls of the trinket market don’t even set up until 9pm.
From Orosei we head northwards more or less along Sardinia’s eastern shore, but with time available today we keep an eye out for anything which suggests a detour, and after a couple of viewpoints and a coffee stop at the seaside village of La Caletta, we hit the jackpot. Across the fields Michaela spots what looks like a town and castle perched precariously right on the edge of a dramatic escarpment, something which positively screams detour at the top of its voice.
We’ve stumbled upon the magnificent village of Posada, described by one renowned travel writer thus:
“There is a place in the world where the heart beats fast, where you are left breathless by how much emotion you feel, where time stops and you are no longer old. That place is Posada where the heart does not age and the mind never stops dreaming”.
Well, those are hefty accolades but the little town is indeed gorgeous with fabulous views across fertile agricultural land to the sea. Its castle, known as the Castello della Fava (“the castle of beans”, bizarrely) was constructed in the 12th and 13th centuries in order to protect the hugely productive agricultural lands from envious raiders. Held by the Catalans for a while, the defence was to provide a regular refuge for villagers whenever their lands were under threat.
Posada may have a big reputation to live up to with that quote but it makes a good fist of it, picturesque in its own right yet providing amazing views both from it and of it, a lovely town of which we knew nothing until we spied it across the fields. There’s no doubt that road trips are enhanced when you have the time and inclination to detour, you just never know what you will stumble upon.
With detours complete it’s late afternoon when we pull up outside our next apartment overlooking a beautiful strait between the town and the archipelago which scatters seven hilly islands across the Med. We are now towards the northern tip of Sardinia, in the town of Palau, from where regular ferries amble back and forth across the strait creating sparkling white wakes in the ever changing shades of blue.
Above the town sitting atop the highest hill is a fort, though this is no ancient structure, dating only from the late 19th century and going on to see military usage in each of the World Wars. Looking across from the other side of town is the Roccia dell’Orso, a rock in the shape of a bear appearing to guard the entrance to the strait, a resemblance more obvious from afar than from the rugged walk beneath its pose.
Palau has that familiar feel which is a mix of holiday town and ferry port with an appealing lungomare and a relay style ferry service to a neighbouring island which runs throughout the day. The ferry’s destination is the largest island of the archipelago, La Maddalena, which from here looks extremely attractive. Our day long boat trip – yep, we manage one this time – makes La Maddalena its last call.
Ahead of that the boat trip takes us to the smaller islands of Spargi, Budelli and Santa Maria. The island scenery is beautiful, the water fabulously clear, but the trip is really little more than a procession as successive boatloads of swimwear-clad customers traipse across the rocks to find a postage stamp sized place on the sand and soak up the sun before their hour is up and it’s time to climb back on board. There’s more flesh on show than in the average abattoir.
Possibly the most interesting call is at a place where we are forbidden to moor and can only view from afar: the Spiaggia Rosa, which has a lovely tale to tell. The “pink” name of the beach comes from a microscopic organism called foraminifera which washes ashore and mingles with the sand, giving the whole beach a pinkish hue. Unfortunately its popularity was its downfall as tourists and traders alike scooped up souvenir handfuls in such quantities that the pink colour was lost altogether.
Cue the accidental arrival in 1989 of lone sailor Mauro Morandi, whose boat broke down nearby, forcing him to seek Crusoe-esque refuge on the uninhabited rock. Learning of the plundering of the natural phenomenon, he became the unofficial guardian of the beach, warding off all and sundry, winning from local authorities protective rights to prevent access to the beach, and waited for the pink to return, which it slowly did.
Incredibly, this guy sat there, guarding this little piece of nature, for more than THIRTY YEARS without ever leaving his post. By the time old age caught up with him, he was a local hero and celebrity, had achieved his aim and allowed nature to recover and the pink to return. Ill health and old age were soon to combine to end his life shortly after leaving his post, though many believe he died of a broken heart as a result of having to leave his little piece of paradise behind.
And so on to the island of La Maddalena and its eponymous main town. It is, as we thought it might be, just as attractive from within as it is from across the strait. We need to see this place on our own timeframe rather than on this processional boat trip. Those chugging ferries suddenly look irresistible.
34 Comments
Andrew Petcher
Thanks for the memory nudge, I really liked Sardinia but visited the north and the west.
Phil & Michaela
No doubt some of the same places though…
Andrew Petcher
A couple of nights in Olbia
The Flask Half Full
Ah, the Mighty Mistral. That particular wind plays a big role in the wines of the Rhône, Provence, and Languedoc-Roussillon regions in France. I would imagine it has an impact on Sardinia, too. That bear rock looks like it has danced with the Mighty Mistral more than once! Those towns look so peaceful – a glorious lack of crowds.
Phil & Michaela
It’s been an enjoyable few days of touring these lovely towns. Was going to tell you about another delicious Sardinian red but I’ve forgotten the name dammit…..starts in “D” and ends in “os” but that’s all I can remember!
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
That’s such a beautiful area and your photos of it are beautiful. Your post brought back some great memories. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
It really is lovely, especially La Maddalena.
Eha Carr
After a brief Sunday breakfast read I know I shall be back this afternoon and with a map. Want to learn more about Orosei and Posada . . . and those ‘Bear’ photos are dramatic! Remember being ‘blown away’ by the Mistral on the SE French coastline . . . well, at least the sun was shining . . .
Phil & Michaela
Beautiful places, terrific coastline!
Monkey's Tale
Well the boat trip may have been the usual tourist run, but the colour of the water is gorgeous. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
And so clear! Great little towns on a fabulous stretch of coast.
MrsWayfarer
The scenery looks so dreamy. Fantastic shots and lovely different shades of blue from the sky to the water.
Phil & Michaela
No enhancement of photos either, all genuine!
restlessjo
The blue of the sea has an unreal quality, Phil. This is like a serenade to the beauty of islands, but a ferry offers me more. The little towns are an idyllic wander xx
Phil & Michaela
It’s definitely a lovely area, Jo, lots going for it. Beautiful coastline, not too keen on some of the prices 😂😮
restlessjo
I gathered it was an island for the well to do. One reason why we haven’t been. We’re leaving Poznan this evening for Lodz. Happy travels xx
Phil & Michaela
You too xx
Toonsarah
I remember strong winds when we were in Cagliari, making the evenings quite chilly. A shame they prevented your hoped-for boat trips but Posada looks like a great detour. And the story behind the pink beach is lovely, even if that boat trip wasn’t really your style (it wouldn’t be mine either!)
Phil & Michaela
It’s been a great road trip…and sometimes you just have to do these things just to see for yourself. Really like this part of the island, very picturesque, great little towns and wonderful coastline. And the Mediterranean blue….
WanderingCanadians
It’s too bad the winds were too strong. But it sounds like you managed to fill the time. Posada looks very picturesque. Love the views from the fort. And the tour of the archipelago looks lovely
Phil & Michaela
It was…if a bit over touristy…
grandmisadventures
That is a beautiful and poetic way to describe Posada- and your pictures seem to say that the description is well earned. Also I love the idea of the seven different winds and the different weather they bring
Phil & Michaela
There’s some great little places, especially if you detour a bit (as I know you guys like to!)
grandmisadventures
Detours are the best 🙂
Lookoom
There are still beautiful natural areas in Sardinia, as your photos clearly show.
Phil & Michaela
Indeed so
Cathy
Great post! Would you recommend staying in La Maddalena?
Phil & Michaela
Yes we would….although we didn’t stay there (we stayed in Palau) it would be a lovely base for a while
leightontravels
What a rich and evocative exploration. There’s a real sense of scale – the ancient mysteries of the nuraghe, the mountain air, and the storytelling art splashed across the walls. All absolutely worth braving the winds for, though it’s a bummer about your would-be boat trip.
Phil & Michaela
Was such a lot of fun doing a “mural treasure hunt” in such an unassuming little town. There’s lots to like about Sardinia, it’s an intriguing island
Annie Berger
Your post brought back vivid memories of our time exploring small towns and villages in Sicily, Phil. I found wandering those narrow lanes Michaela’s lens captured intoxicating. Thank you for the memories and dreams.
Phil & Michaela
There’s obvious and I suppose predictable similarities between Sicily and Sardinia, Annie. There’s lots to love about Sardinia.
Annie Berger
Would love to visit Sardinia and Corsica someday too!
Phil & Michaela
I think you would both love both!