And So To Machu Picchu
I always think there’s something supremely auspicious about train travel, especially pulling out of or in to a great city, it just feels so momentous. This is particularly true today as the Peru Rail train hauls slowly up the steep inclines out of Cusco, headed for one of the World’s most spectacular rail journeys through the Sacred Valley to Machu Picchu, a wonder of the modern world. And all this on a significant birthday for Michaela, too.
It takes a full half hour for the train to be free of Cusco, the rail track repeatedly switchbacking as it climbs its way up and over the mountains surrounding the city. Once clear of the steep slopes, we drop down through Poroy, then out into the agricultural plains the other side of the mountain barrier, where the fertile fields yield a multitude of differing crops. (Note: Peru grows more than 3,500 varieties of potato. We didn’t even know that so many varieties existed. Did you?).
With a maximum speed of only 55kph it takes almost five hours to reach our destination, but it is five hours of the most unbelievably breathtaking scenery – no wonder this is always included in any list of the top ten rail journeys of the world. As we enter the Sacred Valley and begin to follow the Urubamba River, the scenery becomes more than sublime, towering mountains forming colossal sides to the gorge, greenery lining the river but snow capping the highest of the peaks. It is truly sensational scenery. This is big country.
The train itself isn’t half bad either, panoramic windows, complimentary snacks, a classy pay bar and an open air viewing platform just some of the frills provided by Peru Rail. (There is also a high class option, the Hiram Bingham train, but it’s way, way, way out of our budget. Google the prices if you dare). Towards the end of this magnificent journey the flora begins to evolve, with a subtropical look taking over from farmland as we near the point where the Andes meet the Amazon rainforest.
If it wasn’t for what’s coming next on this journey through Peru it would be a disappointment to be ending this marvellous train journey, but nevertheless we are full of excitement and anticipation as we finally pull in to the small town of Aguas Calientes. These days, Aguas Calientes has an alternative name – Machu Picchu Pueblo – and the fact that it has what you might call a marketing name tells you a lot about its character. We’ve no idea what used to be here before the great site became such a destination for tourists, but it’s now basically a dormitory for those eager to see Machu Picchu.
For all that, the little town is a delight. Its setting is of course spectacular, the Andes dominating every view, soaring straight to the sky from the town’s backyards. A tributary to the Urubamba races downwards through the steep centre, crashing its white water through town, while every now and again a train rumbles right along the High Street between restaurants and shops. In addition, the growth of the tourist dormitory town has been completed with good taste: the banks of the river’s torrents attractively finished, statues of Inca idols decorating streets and squares. It feels as if it’s built entirely for tourism, yet hundreds of kids spill out of its schools daily: evidently the advent of tourism has given birth to an entirely new and thriving community.
And so to Machu Picchu, giving for Michaela in particular the thrill of a major bucket list item. She has coveted seeing this place for many more years than we’ve been together, and here she is, poised to walk its pathways one day after a significant birthday. It’s almost too perfect. The weather is almost too perfect too. On so many days the cloud drifts across Machu Picchu and the famous views are obscured from sight, but today – in fact on both of our days here – the weather could not be more kind. Climbing the steep terraces, wandering amongst the ancient walls and temples, gazing upon these iconic world views, is as fabulous as we hoped it would be.
It’s hard to fathom the sheer effort, enterprise and engineering which went into the 15th century construction of Machu Picchu, right up here at the top of these colossal mountains way above the Urubamba below. Unanswered questions just hang in the air: how did they haul these huge boulders into place, how did they turn almost vertical mountainsides into agricultural terraces, why put so much effort into constructing such a major site which was never intended to be a citadel or a fortress?
You see, Machu Picchu was never a city. Cusco and the Sacred Valley (Valle Sagrada) in which the site lies were admittedly the epicentre of the Inca empire, but examination by archeologists has revealed that a maximum of 750 people resided in Machu Picchu and there is scant evidence of permanent habitation. Thus, the thinking is that Machu Picchu was constructed simply as a getaway for the Inca ruler of the time, Pachacutec. This incredible, vast site, so far above the valley below, 750 workers servicing the complex….all for purposes of getaway….that is some level of privileged indulgence!
Rather like Petra and Tutankhamun’s tomb, the story of rediscovery is almost as fascinating as the history. Although evidence suggests earlier partial discovery by others, full exploration and introduction to the world stage, as it were, is credited to Hiram Bingham, he whom the luxury train is named after, who finally set eyes on his prize in 1911. Having heard of a lost Inca city, Bingham and his team fought their way along the Urubamba basin, gleaning whatever information they could from farmers en route, until eventually being led to the actual site by the 11-year old son of one of those farmers.
Today of course Machu Picchu is a very heavily visited location with visitor numbers restricted to 4,500 per day in order to limit wear and tear on the site. A highly efficient system operates to control these hordes, starting with queuing in the streets of Aguas Calientes in order to catch one of the many shuttle buses which climb the winding road to the top. The entry time on your ticket is strictly adhered to, so it’s necessary to join those bus queues at least an hour before your designated time.
Once there, the majesty of Machu Picchu is spellbinding. This incredible Andean scenery is a fantastic and awesome place to visit regardless of the presence of one of the seven wonders of the modern world, the soaring terrain of the mountains really is breathtaking.
In further attempts to balance visitor numbers with wear and tear, there are four designated and ever shifting planned circuits around the vast site, all cleverly thought out and well managed. We complete two of the circuits, one on each of our two full days here. Each of them provides great opportunities to both walk amongst the ancient walls and pass rewarding viewpoints of the most important structures. We will examine Inca philosophies a little more at our next destination but, as with most major Inca sites, there is a temple dedicated to the sun and one to the moon; the Temple of The Condor, the Temple of Three Windows, and others, yet the eye is continually drawn to the terraces.
It’s impossible to imagine the construction methods required to create agriculturally rich terraces on such steep, unforgiving terrain, at altitudes such as these. Scientific examination has shown that the topsoil for these massively extensive terraces was hauled all the way up from the valley hundreds of feet below, and that cultivation of foodstuffs was extremely successful. Rainfall on Machu Picchu was (still is) sufficient to alleviate the need for water storage, in fact the terraces are designed to drain rather than retain.
The condor, subject of one of the major temples, is one of three creatures held as sacred by the Incas, along with the puma and the serpent, the three often being represented in sculptures and drawings from the era of Inca rule. Condors still live, and hunt, around Machu Picchu today, but we don’t get lucky enough to spy one on either of our visits. As we near the end of our second circuit, we turn and take one last lingering gaze at this amazing place – not just the wonder of the modern world itself, but also the incredible setting in which Machu Picchu lies. It is almost unreal.
It’s been a wonderful couple of days exploring this amazing place, enjoying Aguas Calientes and seeing Michaela take such pleasure in exploring a place she has long dreamed of visiting, than drifting off to sleep to the sound of the rushing river crashing its way downhill. The sun shone on both days, the notorious Andes mist staying away and granting us clear views of the marvel which is Machu Picchu. Unforgettable.
37 Comments
Eha Carr
I don’t quite know how to put things so my words convey my thoughts the way they are . . .
A very sincere belated ‘Happy Birthday’ methinks you did enjoy. May the future months and years bring health, happiness and the ability to enjoy what the world has to offer. You two have a lot of clues how to achieve this – may the outside forces help and not hinder.
This post, without a skerrick of exaggeration, has the best and clearest photos of Machu Picchu I have ever seen. Oddly, the place has not quite been at the top of my wish-list – now, being able to see such a detailed series of pictures I am quite awe-struck. Thank you! You must be close to the end of your journey . . . what a fabulous one it has been . . . hugs . . . oh, am reposting even if it is number three for the day > shall be ‘good tomorrow . . .
Phil & Michaela
Oooo no, we’re only half way through this trip – in fact, exactly half way, today, as it happens! Machu Picchu really is deserving of its accolades and reputations, not least because of the surrounding scenery. There’s just something which sets the Andes apart from other mountain ranges.
Miriam
How blessed you were with the weather. And how absolutely breathtaking and awe inspiring is this place. First that spectacular train trip to get there (and yes, I googled the luxury train, wow) and then two days of exploring what truly must be one of the most magnificent and mysterious wonders of the world. Thanks for taking me there. Loved your post. And happy significant birthday to Michaela! I’m sure it’s one she’ll never forget.
Phil & Michaela
We were indeed, Miriam – we get lucky quite often on our travels, I have to say! It’s been a stunning few days, but to be honest Peru really is turning out to be one of the best countries we’ve ever visited. It’s THAT good!
Lookoom
Your visit to Machu Picchu is as captivating as the site is. I think that visiting Machu Picchu is one of the essential achievements of travellers, like New York, for example. The beauty of the site, its incongruity so high up in the mountains, the mysteries that still surround it, all help to fuel the imagination. I imagine Machu Picchu as a place of excellence where scholars and craftsmen were gathered under the patronage of the Inca.
Phil & Michaela
Yes, even though it’s immensely popular, it’s still possible to be absorbed by the thoughts of how it was in its heyday. The Andes are breathtaking anyway, which adds to the feeling of being somewhere very special.
Steven and Annie Berger
Thank you for all your Peruvian posts allowing me to revisit so many places from long ago and admire others we would never attempt.
Stay safe,
Steve
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Steven, so glad to bring back good memories. Peru is proving to be an absolutely wonderful country. We are so loving our experiences here.
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Happy belated birth Michaela! 🎂 Thank you very much for sharing your wonderful visit to this fascinating and mysterious site! I hope your visit was all you hoped for – it seems so from my perspective. Looking forward to your next instalment. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Lynette. It really is an amazing place – as I’ve said in other replies, the Andes themselves are magical, just adding to how it feels to finally see Machu Picchu for ourselves.
Monkey's Tale
Happy Birthday! What a great place to celebrate it too!! I don’t remember the train taking 5 hours but we only took it back, so maybe it’s faster. We felt sorry for the other passengers because we hadn’t showered after 4 or 5 days of hiking.
It is such a special place isn’t it? And even though it’s tougher to get tickets now, it sounds like limiting people is good for the site. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Thank you (she says!). Ah well, most of the trains only run between Aguas Calientes and Ollantaytambo, about 90 minutes, and then it’s a bus to Cusco. Maybe you did that? I was determined to get tickets for one of the less regular trains which go the whole way from Cusco (Estacion San Pedro), and I’m pleased to say we succeeded! Yes it’s very special – Machu Picchu is just amazing, but there’s something very special about the Andes too, somehow different and more enchanting than many other ranges.
Monkey's Tale
Oh that sounds right.
restlessjo
Now that’s what I call a birthday present! What a very lucky lady- it was worth waiting for. Absolutely stunning photos, Phil. I wonder if I could get a job in Agua Caliente?
Phil & Michaela
Amazing scenery, wonderful place. Which job would you go for, Jo? There’s quite a few massage parlours for weary hikers!
restlessjo
I’m just examining my meagre skills and wondering that myself. I’m not even good at waitressing, Phil. Shame, really…
Phil & Michaela
Aww I’m sure that’s not true Jo
normareadtalktalknet
An incredibile post!!
Amazing photography!!
Thank you for taking us there …
Phil & Michaela
Stunning place, Normski. Machu Picchu is incredible, but the Andes mountains just have to be seen to be believed!
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
A place of mystery, for sure. You were fortunate to have a clear day with enough cloud cover to create optimal lighting. Excellent photos. I’ve seen so many images shrouded in mist and haze. Happy Birthday Micala, it must have felt amazing to realize a long-held dream. Seems we both celebrated ‘significant’ birthdays in May. I have a feeling yours isn’t quite as significant as mine 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Well happy birthday to you too, Suzanne ! Thank you, yes to get two days as clear as that was definitely a stroke of good fortune. The whole of the Sacred Valley is truly amazing….as is Peru as a whole!
Heyjude
Happy ‘significant’ birthday Michaela and what a way to celebrate it! A dream come true and soo many magnificent photos of this unique site. The sun gods certainly shone on you. I was expecting you to hike up there, but a shuttle bus sounds much more sensible. There doesn’t seem too many people in your photos, certainly not 4,500. Or are you given a slotted time to enter and exit the site?
And why does the world need 3,500 varieties of potato?
Phil & Michaela
Well, it’s a HUGE climb from Aguas Calientes up to Machu Picchu – takes at least 4 hours even for the fittest. And yes you have an entry time and they do stick to it, so I really don’t know how anyone would judge the climb and the arrival time correctly. (Note…we didn’t see a single person doing it, but we did see some opting to walk back down rather than take the bus). As for your last question, I have absolutely no idea. If anyone had asked me to guess how many there were, I’d have probably said twenty!
Toonsarah
Firstly, happy belated birthday to Michaela 💐🎁 What a place in which to celebrate! I’m so pleased the weather was kind to you there (as it was to us on our one day visit long ago). It really is a special place isn’t it? And judging by your photos, the crowd management is working well as if anything there are fewer people around than when we were there. On the other hand Aguas Calientes seems to have become much busier and more developed, understandably.
Phil & Michaela
The lady says thank you! The whole crowd management system was impressive in its efficiency, even though it means queuing early for the bus down in town. The creation of four separate circuits (equal numbers in each per hour) works extremely well in terms of affording space to all. What an amazing place though Sarah…not just MP, but the whole Andes and Sacred Valley area. Wonderful. We are SERIOUSLY loving Peru….
Terrie
Absolutely. Fabulous ever since I read about Machu Picchu. When I was 10. I wanted to go there. I’m so pleased. You could talk about it for me. Have a wonderful significant birthday Michaela and. Thank you for sharing.terr
Phil & Michaela
Wonderful place, Terrie, the Sacred Valley and the Andes are absolutely stunning. But then, we’re finding Peru as a whole one if the best countries visited so far!
Helen Devries
What a wonderful birthday celebration! A place you had always wanted to see and you get a brilliant train ride and fine weather with which to do it all. So glad for you.
The work to build that place…….all for a getaway for the 1 per cent….sounds uncannily familiar.
A friends daughter visited Peru and came back raving about the food….and the varieties of potato!
Phil & Michaela
The food…the country….the scenery…the Andes….the history… This is fast becoming one of our best destinations so far…
Helen Devries
And more to come!
Phil & Michaela
Indeed…
grandmisadventures
absolutely incredible! Like many people, Machu Picchu is on my bucket list. So I’ve happily poured over your post a few times now daydreaming about being there 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Amazing place, great experience. The scenery is just fabulous.
The Flask Half Full
Macchu Picchu (and the train ride in) is on my bucket list, as well. Thankful for your report and to hear it’s worth the time. Spectacular photos! And I had NO IDEA there were over 3,500 varieties of potato. How many different ways can you cook a potato, for crying out loud?!? Did consult with the Google machine and learned that potatoes are a major food staple in Peru. Did you find that to be true? Happy belated birthday to Michaela!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you (she says). Yep, potatoes everywhere with almost everything, sometimes clearly different varieties in one dish. But wow Peruvian food is good!
WanderingCanadians
What a fabulous way for Michaela to celebrate her birthday! I had no idea there were so many different varieties of potato either. Machu Picchu is a major bucket list item for me as well. For now I enjoyed getting a preview from your pictures. It looks amazing!
Phil & Michaela
It’s fabulous. I’m guessing you like us will be blown away by the mountain scenery when you make it there.