Concluding Rio: Sugarloaf, Rocinha And Tijuca
Sugarloaf Mountain is, like Copacabana, Ipanema and Christ The Redeemer, an icon of this famous city. Reached by cable car from the neighbourhood of Urca, the double summit of Morro de Urca and then Sugarloaf itself provide yet more fabulous, panoramic views of the city, viewed from the opposite perspective to that of Corcovado. Thankfully a bit less crowded than the platform at Christ’s feet was, the peaks here also feature a number of paved trails through the surrounding hillside forest where vultures circle overhead, birds squawk in the trees and patterned lizards dart away from human footfall.
Just like up at The Redeemer, it’s a joy to simply linger and gaze at these views and soak up just what an incredible natural setting Rio enjoys. The whole place is a combination of geological drama and manmade eye candy. These are exceptional views from up here on Sugarloaf. It’s remarkable though how many tourists are choosing to eat in the overpriced, bog standard cafes up here – strange that people are willing pay this much for a cardboard pizza or crappy hot dog when the city down below is a haven of great food. Each to their own, we suppose. We buy nothing more than a bottle of water and look forward to a “proper” lunch in town.
Sunday announces its arrival with beautifully clear blue skies and early morning sunshine already baking the sidewalks. We can hear music down there in the streets way before we head for breakfast and the occasional tiny bikini is already being propelled through the streets by tottering heels. I blink at the iPad clock: it’s 6.45am but it seems the day has already started without us. We’re in no rush though, with the all-night celebrations at the Sambadrome ahead of us we need to conserve energy. See previous post for how that went.
Carnival time means no work or school for the locals, so huge numbers head to the beaches. As a result, Copacabana is hilariously busy: if we thought the preceding days have been mad, this is a whole different level. We are slightly mystified by the ripple of applause which sporadically passes across the beach and moves through the crowds: it turns out this is the moment that local orphans are brought down for playtime on the beach by carers, a touching moment. Now in possession of this knowledge, we join in future bursts of applause.
Our Tuesday excursion is a guided tour of a favela. There are ethical concerns over trips to Rio’s favelas and similar places around the world: at worst such ventures are referred to as “slum tourism” or voyeurism, but there is no doubt that the revenue from such tours is helping the economy of these deprived areas. The favelas of Brazil, and indeed of Rio, are amongst the world’s most over populated districts and, historically, amongst the most economically depressed. Drugs gangs for the most part still rule the favelas but thankfully murder and violence is on the decline and Government aided recovery is helping to make improvements in living conditions for the large numbers who reside here.
What remain in the favelas are the influences of heritage: these places have historically engendered a strong sense of community, culture and spirit. Our visit is to the largest favela of all, Rocinha, where even now over 100,000 people reside in a small area of mountainside. Originally started by 19th century soldiers returning penniless from war and seeking shelter in the hills, favelas were substantially expanded when rural farm workers migrated from the provinces to the city in search of wealth, then further by immigration. Some 6% of Brazil’s population still live in favelas to this day.
Our tour starts, as most of them do, riding up the steep, twisting roads on the back of moto taxis, a fun experience in itself. Our host, Jucara, grew up in Rocinha: now, at age 28, she speaks of the only recently instigated water and electricity supplies, but also of a young life witnessing shoot-outs and street killings on an almost daily basis. She takes us into dark, twisting alley ways, into a Rocinha family home, and past corners where cheap drugs are openly on sale. Now and again she issues an instruction to put away phones and cameras: the locals here will not approach visitors or attempt to pickpocket or steal, but inadvertently take a photograph of a drug dealer and you could be in deep trouble.
As we descend the hillside on foot and approach the edge of the favela and a return to “ordinary” Rio streets, the number of shops and restaurants increases and Jucara is discernibly less controlling of her flock. Visiting a favela is indeed an experience – though we can say that, in terms of deprived living conditions, we have seen worse in Asia. In terms of territory run by drugs gangs though, Rio is definitely different.
The close proximity of the favelas to some of the city’s wealthiest areas is a little startling; there are some sumptuous dwellings with private pools a stone’s throw from the theoretical boundary, hiding of course behind significant protective railings – none more so than on the approach to Tijuca where sizeable villas nestle among the trees.
Tijuca is a national park within Rio’s city confines, said by some to be the largest urban forest in the world, and is laced with streams and waterfalls throughout. Vantage points again provide magnificent views across Rio, colourful butterflies flutter amongst the dense foliage, South American coati roam searching for food undaunted by human presence and birds like woodpeckers, parrots and colourful saira make frequent appearances. Local families play in some of the waterways, presumably choosing those streams as a better option than the crowded beaches.
Our hiking guide Eduardo, an enthusiastic fan of hiking, wildlife, football and beer (you can guess that we got on well!), drops us back at Copacabana, bids us farewell and makes his way home to pick up his wife and head to the Maracana: his beloved Vasco da Gama team have a big game tonight.
It’s when we head into our hotel early afternoon that we receive news of the death of Michaela’s father just a few hours earlier. We arrange flights home, cancel bookings, make new arrangements and use a few caipirinhas to help get over the shock.
We have a day to kill now, our minds not really any longer fully focused on Rio. As if to match our changing mood, fog wraps Thursday morning in a damp blanket, dispersing only when the rain starts to fall. Rio itself is a bit low key too: carnival season is over, normal life is returning – though Rio’s “normal” is different from the “normal” of most other places – and it feels like the city has one colossal shared hangover.
Rain falls steadily until the last hour before sundown and with the weather and our mood being equally subdued we abandon our plans to explore new districts of the city. Now the twinkling lights of the beach bars are coming on and, as is always the case along the Copacabana strip, music is filtering out on to the streets: some live bands, some pre-recorded, some DJs starting their shift. Rio’s spirit is already returning and the incessantly upbeat life of the Carioca is once again taking over.
Rio de Janeiro is an amazing, non-stop, vibrant city with a joy of life which is, in our travels so far, unrivalled. Being here is a fantastic experience; being here at carnival time has been breathless. Today would in any case have been our last day in Rio, tomorrow we would have been heading up into the mountains: instead we will be packing our backpacks for the long haul home.
The Atlantic roars its goodbyes with giant crashing waves, the breaking weather has given the waters a different mood. As darkness begins to fall people gravitate to the beach not for the usual reasons , but instead to film these giant, moody beasts as they crash their heavy surf on to the sand. It’s just one last amazing sight before we leave.
Goodbye Rio, and goodbye, for now, to Brazil. We will, we hope, be back very soon.
38 Comments
restlessjo
There’s no good time for bad news, is there? Especially when unexpected. My favourite part of Rio would be up on the heights. Those views are matchless. 🙂🩵
Phil & Michaela
No, there isn’t really, is there. Rio is amazing but you do have to be ready for a breathless, non stop environment.
Helen Devries
At least you saw and enjoyed Rio….
Phil & Michaela
We did indeed, and what a unique place and atmosphere it is! At the minute our intention is to fly back out after the funeral to see more of Brazil, but of course a lot of that is down to the timing aspect which is out of our hands.
Helen Devries
I could not find a five year old to sort out the glitch, but a seven year old enabled me to see your blog again.
I hope you can continue your exploration of Brazil soon.
Phil & Michaela
😊
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Those views are stellar. Yes, the combination of natural geography and human enhancement gives visitors and residents a constant visual wallop.
Such a sad end to your visit to Brazil but maybe you will be able to return at some point in the future.
Phil & Michaela
We’re hoping to resume the trip just after the funeral, but we will have to see whether timing allows
Annie Berger
Glad you saw the literal highs of Rio as the views are just stunning. When we took a private tour of the same favela a few years ago, it was pretty daunting as there was a shootout and we had to immediately find a safe haven with our guide in a furniture store. We did feel safe, though, as our guide was able to “read” what was about to happen and get us out of harm’s way. For us, that tour provided a sense of how many people live in desperate circumstances just a stone’s throw, as you said, from great wealth. The dichotomy was stark.
Hope you do indeed return soon to continue your adventures.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Annie. Well our visit wasn’t as dramatic as yours, clearly! Actually we had remembered that someone amongst our blogging friends had had that experience but we couldn’t quite place who it was, it must have been pretty scary even if you did feel safe. We do really hope to get back to see more of Brazil soon as we were/are so excited to see more. Fingers crossed.
Heyjude
The views are incredible. Kudos to Michaela. I hope she’s doing OK. Are there any siblings to help support her mum? She’ll be in shock I imagine if the death was unexpected. That’s how I felt when Alex died suddenly. Hard to get your head around it. My thoughts are with you all.
Phil & Michaela
Ah thank you Jude, much appreciated on all levels. But as far as Mum (Norma) is concerned, I should point out that it’s not quite like that. Michaela’s Mum and Dad broke up shortly after Michaela was born, way back in the 60s. The only time they saw one another in the last 30 years or more was at our wedding. So Norma, obviously, isn’t in distress apart from her concern for Michaela. (There’s two half brothers and a step Mum, to complete the picture). Michaela is OK but of course not looking forward to the funeral. I should say too that our loss is not as great as yours Jude. And our thoughts are still in turn with you in that respect.
Heyjude
Ah, thanks for the explanation. That does make a difference to how Norma will be feeling. Still a shock for Michaela. And no one likes a funeral. Which is why the OH and I won’t be having one. Alex neither. His friends had a farewell party for him on his birthday instead.
Phil & Michaela
Which is a lovely idea
Miriam
What a fabulous account of your time in Rio and quite an eye opener in many ways. Imagine inadvertently taking a photo of a drug lord? The mind boggles as to the consequences. But what an amazing and vibrant place. Glad you got to experience it before you had to head back. And hopefully the adventure can continue.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Miriam. It is indeed a remarkable city, so full of life and verve
Monkey's Tale
So now you need to watch Dom on Prome, parts of it take place in the favelas. Thinking of yoi and Michaela this week. Sending hugs. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Maggie. We’ll see if we can dig it out!
Travels Through My Lens
You managed to cover a lot of ground in your unexpectedly short stay in Rio; the area where you went hiking looks stunning. And the angst, moody waves at the end, bringing change seem reflective of the situation. I hope you’re able to visit Rio again and continue your travels. All the best to you both.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you 🙏
WanderingCanadians
Beautiful captures from the top of Sugarloaf. Tijuca national park looks like an excellent spot to enjoy the lush landscape and do some hiking. Sorry once again to hear about Michaela’s dad and that you had to readjust your travel plans. Hope you’re doing okay.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, yes, all going OK though it all feels a bit surreal at the minute. Rio is amazing – so spectacular and so, so vibrant and exciting.
Toonsarah
You capture the spirit of Rio so well! We didn’t manage to fit in a favela tour, something we’ve since regretted. I guess you’re back home now and dealing with all the challenges there. Does Michaela have a lot of practical stuff to deal with, on top of the emotional?
Phil & Michaela
Yes we are, Sarah. Michaela is up in Birmingham sorting things with her brothers at the minute but she isn’t an executor so she’s not got a mountain, just a helping role.
wetanddustyroads
Wow Phil (I find I use the word ‘wow’ in just about every post of yours). The views are just incredibly beautiful. Rocinha will leave me slightly claustrophobic, but in the beautiful Tijuca National Park I will be able to breathe. Beautiful last photo. We’re sending big hugs to you guys during this difficult time.
Phil & Michaela
❤️
grandmisadventures
I think that Sugarloaf was my absolute favorite part of Rio with the cable cars and the beautiful views in every direction. It is so interesting to go up through the Favelas and see the stark contrast from the beach scene. Sending hugs from across the miles as you work through this hard time
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Meg – Tennessee is still ON, by the way 😄
grandmisadventures
Yay! Let me know when and we will start making some plans 🙂
Phil & Michaela
At this stage we are looking at something like late April, early May…..
Lookoom
You have wonderful samples of Rio, the city is so diverse that I feel that’s how it’s best remembered, piece by piece, so different from each other as if belonging to different cities.
Phil & Michaela
Yes the different districts are quite distinct from each other, aren’t they
leightontravels
It was fascinating to see and read about your visit to a favela. I have long been fascinating by the history of these places and indeed how much life has improved for the people of such communities in recent decades. I teach Reading Explorer classes to Chinese students and in one of the books there is a whole segment on Rio’s various favelas. Very jealous, I hope to see one for myself someday. Elsewhere your various hikes look just fabulous and, for the 1000th time, very well done for catching such intimate shots of the varied wildlife.
Phil & Michaela
Cheers bud, it’s always so interesting to take a peek into a different world such as a favela. I could have written so much more about the stuff that the guide told us…much change afoot in those areas.
Alison
Looks like a beautiful city from Sugar Loaf Mountain. Such a city of contrasts. I thought it was strange that they have guided tours into the favelas and that you are protected to a degree. Interesting to see how this works. Hopefully things are slowly getting sorted. I couldn’t believe the length of time my dad’s funeral took to take place. Maybe it’s not too long where you are and you’ll be back on the road again.
Phil & Michaela
We’re making progress on that front and will hopefully be setting off again soon. Everything is slow in the UK these days. Rio was truly amazing though, Ali – quite unique.
rkrontheroad
The visit to the favelas is one most don’t experience, so packed in, from your photos. Good suggestion about not taking photos in town – would not have thought of that! I’m not sure I could do that gondola ride to Sugarloaf. I’m feeling a bit of vertigo just looking at the pictures.
Phil & Michaela
Worth it for the amazing views from the top though, it’s a pretty unique city geographically, as well as all its other qualities