Back North To Fes, Then West To Casablanca
Our farewells with Mohammed and the other guys at Merzouga are heartfelt; we feel like we’re leaving friends behind while Mohammed says they will miss us and implores us to return some day. We say we may do, but of course inside we know it’s not going to happen, there’s still a whole world out there.
The need to take the Duster back to Fes means retracing our steps through the Ziz valley, past and over the Middle Atlas mountains, but with an overnight call in a different town – not Errachidia this time, but the unassuming town of Midelt. This is basically a dormitory stop for food and sleep, yet somehow we stumble on a great restaurant where the tagine (yeah, another one) goes straight into the top five and the hilarious and slightly crazy owner Sharif keeps us, everyone else, and himself, entertained with his multilingual banter.
Over the course of the two days driving back from the desert to Fes, we keep a count of the police road blocks – we pass through no less than EIGHTEEN. This time we avoid fines, avoid even having to argue our case, but at every one of those eighteen there is somebody handing over cash while the smug cop scribbles the driver’s details down on a form.
And so we’re back in Fes, the Duster is back with its rightful owner, and we are on our fifth one-night stay in the last eight nights. It will be good to settle down, even if just for a few nights, in our next destination, especially as that destination has a rather exotic ring….Casablanca. It’s four hours on the train from Fes to Casablanca, then straight on to a modern and efficient tramway which takes us to within a hundred yards or so of our next base. Time to explore this exotic sounding city.
However, in reality the romance is in the name rather than the city itself. As the largest conurbation in Morocco and the financial and commercial hub of the country as a whole, Casablanca is a contemporary city, mostly built in recent times and without the charm and history of the other places we’ve visited on this tour. Even the reason for the romantic connotation is false: not one minute of the eponymous movie was actually filmed here.
If we start our exploration of Casablanca with a romantic notion of the exotic, then this very ordinary and largely unattractive city soon chisels it away. Walking its grid-style streets takes us from concrete hulk to concrete hulk, past shopping malls filled with all too recognisable retailers, and along streets which are familiar enough to be dull and dull enough to be familiar.
Of course, like all cities, Casablanca has its moments and it has its sights, but it has to be said that they are few and, just as important, far between – this is definitely not a walking city. It’s a big city and the sights can be a long, long way apart. Fortunately taxis are cheap. Unfortunately, the taxi drivers all think they’re in a rally, or even a demolition derby. Closing our eyes and paying the fare is our coping mechanism.
Of the rather few sights to see here, the Hassan II mosque is definitely one, in a terrific position perched on the edge of the rocks looking out across the Atlantic. Completed only in 1993, this mosque is a huge building capable of holding over 100,000 worshippers – the largest functioning mosque in Africa and the seventh largest mosque in the world. As if to remind us once again that Casablanca is a modern rather than ancient city, the minaret (2nd tallest in the world) shines a laser towards Mecca. Ancient rites meets modern technology.
This mosque is a stirring and impressive sight, dominating its promontory and boldly staring out across the crashing Atlantic waves, perhaps occasionally glancing across to the opposite side of the bay where the prominent lighthouse, amusingly named El Hank, warns of the rocks below.
West of the lighthouse, Casablanca’s corniche runs for several miles along the shore, punctuated with expensive private beach clubs and the occasional overpriced cafe. Oh, and a KFC, a Pizza Hut and a couple of McDonalds. Once again though, this corniche is not designed for doing things on foot – it’s a very long stretch of busy six-lane roadway with big gaps between those private clubs. After walking about a third of it, we give in and grab a rally car, oh sorry a taxi, and, judging by how much the cheeky git tries to overcharge us, he clearly assumes we’re guests at a swanky beach club.
As we walk along the corniche we feel the odd combination of the heat of the sun and the cold air of the Atlantic, which is actually quite a pleasant sensation. It’s such a clash of temperatures that it’s little wonder that a heavy sea fog folds in each day both in the morning and at sundown.
We do have to dig really deep to find some attractive quarters here – there’s the odd pleasant garden, a quaint area close to the royal palace, and a beach at one end of the corniche, but all in all we won’t be leaving Casablanca with an eye on a quick return. Our Top 10 of Casablanca would be, frankly, 1) Visit Rick’s Cafe, 2) Visit Hassan II mosque 3) Leave town.
Rick’s Cafe is the must-do of Casablanca. Designed to re-create the bar which features in the movie, it’s a very classy upmarket place with outrageous prices to match – we only call in for a drink at the bar but two rounds (not cocktails, just beer and wine) sets us back 380 dirham when entire meals for two have been typically costing around 120. Despite this, it is a properly classy place and it’s fun to sit at the bar and soak up the surroundings.
Yes, you read that right. Beer and wine. One element of Casablanca’s modern character is liberalism – there are bars here full of the kind of indulgent revelry which we haven’t seen or enjoyed since leaving Spain. One such is Bar Atomic, a smoky, raucous old-school bar which unashamedly jumps on the movie memorabilia bandwagon with film star portraits and movie stills around its every wall. It’s our first alcohol since Tangier two weeks ago and it feels pretty good to be in a genuine bar, especially one filled with friendly locals.
By “friendly”, we mean this. I get chatting to the guy standing next to me about the Moroccan football match on TV. He is scoffing from a tempting looking bowl of peanuts, cashews and almonds – but when I try to order the same, the barman explains that the guy brought them in himself. Before I know it, the football guy has paid bar staff to run down the road, buy me the same nuts from the mini-market and present them to us in a bowl with our next beer, which he also pays for. Come on, you can’t get much more friendly than that!
As the 100th day of this trip dawns, we’re packing our bags again for what will be the last leg of this long summer sojourn which began in Paris on July 3rd. That seems a long time ago now. Having kept the Mediterranean as a constant for long spells, it seems fitting to end this summertime journey with the Med close by.
So by the time we post again we will be in…..Cyprus. After some debate about where to spend the last two weeks of this trip, we came across a relatively cheap way of getting from Morocco to Cyprus. Only as the date approached did we realise there’s a complication, a complication which involves the word “illegal”.
Oh well, in for a penny….
28 Comments
restlessjo
I have enjoyed your exotic adventures and the rough always comes with the smooth, doesn’t it? That mosque is obviously intent on making man feel small and insignificant. Good luck with Cyprus! 🤗🩵
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Jo
Heyjude
Back in 1979 I ended up in Casablanca, thinking it would be a lovely city to be completely disillusioned. We (my ex and 2 small children) were invited to a beach house down the coast by a friendly local, but we thought the offer a little weird, so hopped on a bus to Tangiers.
Phil & Michaela
Yep, that would have sounded a bit weird. Yes Casablanca is not really worth a visit, very little to recommend it.
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Great pictures. Looking forward to your next post; it has been wonderful to follow along vicariously with you. Thanks for sharing.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you x
wetanddustyroads
I think we will like the Moroccan dishes – they not only look delicious, but are also colourful and beautiful presented. So, Rick’s Cafe it will be in Casablanca (with a bag full of money) and hope on a friendly local in Bar Atomic 😉.
Phil & Michaela
Not much else to recommend Casablanca!
Toonsarah
I’d heard that Casablanca could be something of a disappointment – despite the lure of Rick’s Bar I think I’ll pass, given that the chances of bumping into Bogart there are nil! But it sounds like you’ll have another tale to tell about your journey to Cyprus – I’m looking forward to that!
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Sarah….yeah leave that one off your list.
Monkey's Tale
Hmm how are you going to get out of this one?…. And you say we’re extreme . 😊 I have to say, Casablanca is no longer on my list. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Well, we’re here in Cyprus…. Anyway, yeah I would say leave Casablanca off that list
Travels Through My Lens
I’ve enjoyed reading about your travels through Morocco and seeing your beautiful photos. Casablanca felt overwhelming to us when we visited. I’m looking forward to reading about Cyprus as well. Thanks for sharing!
Lookoom
Another great city to visit!
Phil & Michaela
One to leave off the wish list, I suggest
WanderingCanadians
My mouth is watering after seeing all the delicious Moroccan dishes you had. Casablanca sounds much more hectic than I was picturing. I couldn’t help but laugh at your “Top 10 of Casablanca”! I’m intrigued about this complication to get from Morocco to Cyprus! Safe travels.
Phil & Michaela
Well, we’re here in Cyprus…..
WanderingCanadians
That’s a good sign at least!
grandmisadventures
Nothing would take the romance out of place like a taxi driver thinking he’s in demolition derby mode. Just the name Casablanca does bring up images of old school romance and an envious wish of being more like Ingrid Bergman. But Rick’s Cafe definitely has done a great job at brining back that loving feeling from the movie- especially with your pictures in black and white. Looking forward to following along to Cyprus 🙂
Phil & Michaela
There was plenty to take out the romance! Not a lot to recommend it, as we said…
Mike and Kellye Hefner
I’m very impressed with your photos of the Hassan II Mosque, as it looks beautiful on its perch alongside the ocean. I am also impressed with your honesty about visiting Casablanca, but, hey, if you need a McDonalds fix, they can accommodate! Other things that stood out to me in your post are the nice mixed nuts guy and the gorgeous El Hank Lighthouse. I look forward to tagging along in Cyprus with you.
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Kellye, yeah Casablanca doesn’t top our recommended list!
Alison
The food from your one night stand looks absolutely deliciously. Sorry to hear Casablanca didn’t live up to your expectations, looks like you found the best bits. Great that it was so friendly. Hope you and Michaela enacted some of the scenes!
Phil & Michaela
I’m afraid not…..sorry to disappoint!
leightontravels
I truly seem to be in the minority in thinking that Casablanca is a perfectly serviceable place to kick back and enjoy a few days. Glad you got to see the two big draws, dinner at Rick’s would probably make my top 10 restaurant experiences around the globe. If I were ever to make such a list. What hospitality you received at Bar Atomic, which really looks like my kinda joint.
Phil & Michaela
I absolutely knew you would like the look of Bar Atomic, I actually sat there with an Flag Speciale Gold beer and said, “Leighton would love this”! Yeah we found Casablanca dull. In its (slight) defence, maybe we’ve just been to too many fab places this year. You could almost make a direct comparison with Tangier, and Tangier for me wins hands down. (By the way, we left out of the blog post the other contact in Bar Atomic…..she was one persistent….ahem….lady of the night…). We nearly did book a meal at Rick’s but in the end decided it wasn’t the time to splurge.
rkrontheroad
Who would have guessed that Fes was so much better than expected and Casablanca was a bit of a modern disappointment? The Mosque does look splendid at the edge of the water, but only a few decades old.
Phil & Michaela
Yep, wouldn’t recommend anyone adds it to a wish list