Meknes & Volubilis: Ancient Sights And Building Sites
According to the screen at the end of the carriage, we’ve just hit 313 kilometres per hour, a whacking 194mph, as we speed southwards through the changing terrain. Morocco’s new high speed railway, the first of its kind on the African continent, is comfortable, efficient and very impressive, and we arrive at our change point at Kenitra in the blink of an eye. From Kenitra to Meknes it’s much older rolling stock, the compartment-and-corridor combo reminding me of British Rail circa 1970.
We have high hopes for Meknes, high hopes which are all but dashed before we’ve even settled in. Virtually everything we were intending to visit is closed for renovation; ancient sites are hidden behind scaffolding and hoarding, the market stalls of Place Lahdim are squeezed into side streets while the square is resurfaced; what is described in guide books as a “mini Jemaa-el-Fna” looks more like an empty car park. Meknes is one big building site. Even Bab Mansour, Meknes’ most famous and ornate gateway, is lurking behind a picture of itself draped over the scaffolding monster.
Somebody in Meknes has bought an awful lot of block paving. They seem to be replacing every single walkway throughout the old part of town – even the tight alleys of the medina and the grand pavements en route to the Royal Palace are being dug up and relaid. On the evidence of the bits they’ve completed, they bought tons and tons of paving blocks but nobody thought to buy a spirit level.
So with opportunities in Meknes a bit limited, we galvanise ourselves for what turns out to be a pretty good alternative, a trip out to the village of Moulay Idriss and the Roman ruin of the city of Volubilis. Getting out from Meknes to these places necessitates using the Moroccan taxi system, which in itself is a bit of a learning curve. For those who may use them on a future trip, this is how it works….
Every town and city has two types of taxi: the “petit taxi” and the “grand taxi”. Petit taxis only operate around town and don’t go outside of the central area: they are plentiful, well used and very cheap, you can usually get anywhere around town for less than £1. Because they don’t go anywhere else, they won’t try and talk you into any other destination, or take you somewhere you don’t want to go. They will though sometimes pick up another passenger who is going in the same direction as you.
“Grand taxis” are like collectivos in Mexico or the dolmus in Turkey, a shared taxi with set routes but no set timetable, they just leave when full, and of course don’t take you door to door. In Morocco they usually carry six passengers, though some are bigger, and you may also hear the French word “collective” used as well as “grand taxi”. These taxis go from town to town, covering greater distances than the “petit taxis”, and are highly useful, but these guys will often try to talk you into going alone rather than sharing with other passengers. There’s no need to be tempted: the “collective” rate is pre-set and is very cheap: get talked into a private transport and you may unwittingly pay up to TEN times the set fee per person, just for two of you. Of course, if your required journey doesn’t match the set route, they will be happy to take you where you want to go, but you’ll have to pay the inflated fee. If you do this, make sure you haggle, they always try it on.
Volubilis is the extensive hilltop remains of the Roman city which is believed to have been the capital of the Kingdom of Mauretania and a city of great prosperity. A triumphal arch is amongst the best preserved sections of the city, though lurking between the walls are some mightily impressive floor mosaics, surprisingly well preserved given both the age and the exposure to excessive sunlight.
Surrounded by fertile land and an abundant water supply, Volubilis prospered, evidenced by the remains of grand town houses, some of which housed that fine mosaic flooring, but was always vulnerable to invasion given its location on the very edge of the Roman Empire. In time, long after the Romans had gone, much of the population was to move from Volubilis to the new location of Moulay Idriss, heavily looting the former for building materials for the latter.
Moulay Idriss, originally called Oualili, is itself an attractive and interesting little town, taking its new name from the direct descendant of the Prophet Muhammad who is credited with bringing Islam to this part of Morocco. His tomb – he is nowadays known as Idris I – is here in the town, making this humble corner one of Morocco’s most holy places and a pilgrimage destination for many thousands of Muslims. It is in fact said that, for those who are not able to make it to Mecca, five pilgrimages to Moulay Idriss is the equivalent of one Haj pilgrimage.
Back to Meknes. We are a little unlucky with our timing here, given the extensive building and renovation works, though Jaime at our lodgings tells us the works are taking an awfully long time and rolls his eyes when the question of who is paying what to whom crops up. We’re sure we catch the word “corruption” in his hissed assessment of it all.
And so we feel a little bit disappointed as we leave, feeling that Meknes may on another occasion have been a much more appealing city. With different timing we may well have been enchanted. But there’s more to come, as we haul our backpacks up on to the train ready to make our way to our next destination.
Next stop Fes. The slideshow below shows some of the delightful sights of Meknes unaffected by the current renovations…..and just how enchanting it would be in less frenetic times.
21 Comments
Discover and Explore
Thank you for sharing your adventure. Too bad about all the renovations that hampered the trip. And thanks for the info on the taxis. Your writing is wonderful by the way. Thank you
Phil & Michaela
Thank you so much, that is very much appreciated 😍
Alison
Still seems very interesting and the trip out to Volubis(?) Was definitely worth it. Those mosaics are beautiful especially so when they are in the open. The view of Moulay (?) is jaw dropping. Imagine the intense labour to build on top of that hill. You both always seem to make the best of any disappointments you encounter
Phil & Michaela
😃 we do our best, I reckon. But then one has to really, otherwise life would be dull!
Monkey's Tale
The fast train in Uzbekistan goes 250 km/hrs and I thought that was fast, 313! Yikes! I’m guessing a spirit level is a bubble level? We’ve expeienced the same newly laid streets a few times. It’s like they are purposely laying it poorly so that they have a job next year to re-lay the tiles. Too bad about Meknes, but Moulay Idriss looks and sounds very interesting. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Yes that train meant business! As a lover of train travel, the second, old school train was just as interesting. And those paving blocks were so badly laid it was laughable!
restlessjo
Those Romans again! Gotta love ’em! What a site! Shame about Meknes because the architecture looks stunning but thanks for the tips and the fabulous photos.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you again Jo, your kind comments are really appreciated. Yes we think that on another occasion we’d have been wowed by Meknes but at least the wonky block paving gave us a laugh!
restlessjo
🤣💜
Toonsarah
A shame about your timing in Meknes. I have a theory that wherever you choose to travel the odds are that at least one sight will be shrouded in scaffolding, but to have a whole town like that is a bit much! Still Moulay Idriss looks interesting, and your photos and descriptions of Volubilis fully match up to the good things I’ve heard 🙂
Phil & Michaela
We probably spent longer on that detour than we otherwise would have done so it’s six and a half a dozen, as my Mum used to say 😂
Lookoom
The ups and downs of travelling. I like the bullet train, and I’d like to go back to Morocco just for it. Volubilis is a beautiful site all the same.
Phil & Michaela
Both trains were great in their own way, but then I am a lover of rail travel. And both Volubilis and Moulay Idriss are well worth a visit
wetanddustyroads
I was not aware of the speed train in Morocco – what an example they are for the rest of us in Africa. It’s a pity about Meknes, but yeah for Volubilis – nice if there is an alternative … and we love to see ancient mosaics.
Phil & Michaela
It wasn’t until we started putting the Morocco plan together till I realised they had a bullet train. But the older train was just as much fun….I do love a train journey…
grandmisadventures
That’s so disheartening to show up ready to be awed only to be faced with scaffolding and road work. At least Volubilis was open because it is incredible- even if it comes with a crazy taxi ride. 🙂
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
How fascinating and very educational. Well done!
WanderingCanadians
What a bummer to visit Meknes when many of the main sites are under heavy construction. At least you found a pretty good alternative for a day-trip though as the ruins in Volubilis look pretty incredible.
Phil & Michaela
It was definitely a great alternative…and Meknes would have been great any other time too
Mike and Kellye Hefner
What an education I am getting from you two! We love viewing ruins, and the ones at Volubilis, along with their history are spectacular. I love how you made the best of a disappointing destination, however, the slides you showed of Meknes prove it is an interesting city. Finally, I cannot even imagine traveling at almost 200 mph on a train! As always, I am enjoying your adventures. Safe travels.
Phil & Michaela
That train was a bullet! Thank you again for your lovely comments, they are always very much appreciated x