Moroccan Roll Lifestyle
Mehdi’s brother’s friend with the rental car office is waiting for us, car clean if a little battle scarred, he even has paperwork and insurance documents ready – often when we’ve done this kind of “local” hire before, the only paperwork which changes hands is cash. “Gendarmerie” he explains, with a wave of his hand.
Our destination for our only day on the road in the Rif Mountains is the tiny village of Akchour, gateway to a renowned spectacular waterfall hike. Actually, it’s not just the hike that’s spectacular, the drive from Chefchaouen to Akchour is pretty amazing too. The huge, sweeping mountain terrain is so scenic, so dramatic. Regularly punctuated by steep climbs, hairpins and Scalextric-like stretches laid out ahead, the road wriggles its way between colossal peaks, somehow finding a route through unforgiving landscapes.
Smoke billows from small rounded brick structures at the roadside, each one a mini bakery where women create the discus shaped loaves so loved by everyone in Morocco. Sheltered from the sun by multiple layers of traditional clothing, these bakers are such an archetypical sight of Morocco, a scene which has played out unchanged probably across centuries.
Now and again a patch of almost lurid green forms an oasis in the rocky, barren ground – these are the well known cannabis farms of the Rif Mountains. In Morocco, cannabis use is legal for medicinal purposes, illegal for any other use, so by necessity all of this crop ends up in the medical profession. Of course it doesn’t. Farmers in this otherwise deprived area make more money from this than any other trade, and no medical trade supply line is ever going to be as lucrative as the “other one”. Blind eyes are turned, no doubt somewhere money changes hands, the trade goes on despite official clampdowns and Morocco remains one of the world’s largest producers of hash.
The road ends at Akchour, the terrain too difficult now to take construction any further. Akchour is a particular type of village, one of those remote places which has latched on to a reason to become a destination, and made the very most of it. In Akchour’s case, the reasons are two spectacular natural features: lengthy cascading waterfalls and a remarkable rock formation known as God’s Bridge.
We opt to take the hike to God’s Bridge, but in fact end up doing it two ways, once by climbing high on to the ridge and looking down on the “bridge” from above, the other by following the waterside trail in the bottom of the canyon, meaning occasional diversions into the water. The “bridge” is in reality an eroded and collapsed archway where the remaining rock bridge spans the canyon a whole 100 metres above the water. Both of our views, from above and below, are pretty amazing.
The canyon itself is beautiful, fast crystal clear waters cascading down a series of waterfalls and foaming over boulders, glinting in the sunlight beneath the verdant canopy above. Akchour’s enterprising locals have set up cafes along the route, tables either next to or actually in the water, tagines boiling away on coals to tempt in hungry hikers on their return. Or hungry travellers, even – it works, and these hungry travellers submit to temptation.
By the time we hand the car keys back to Mehdi’s brother’s buddy, the sun is disappearing behind the Rif Mountains and the streets are falling into shade. Up here in the mountain air of Chefchaouen, the nights are growing noticeably colder, djellebas and other outer robes are starting to appear and the blankets in our room are being given employment.
We’ve managed to make the best of our time here despite the absence of the rental car we had planned to have, though there has been a bit of spare time which would otherwise have been filled with other excursions. While Michaela fills one such time with housekeeping matters and forward research, I put the music on shuffle and the headphones on my ears. Uncannily, my ipod randomly selects “Rock The Casbah” just a few tracks in.
Mehdi’s repair to the door lock held firm for the rest of our stay. However the door to our outside space fell off its hinges. Breakfast remained steadfastly identical despite the fact we never once managed to eat even half of it. Hot water was predictably unpredictable. My bed frame became detached from the footboard, collapsed and hit the floor with a loud bang which must have had anyone in the room below wondering what the hell had happened.
Moroccan roll baby.
30 Comments
Toonsarah
Stunning landscapes and what a road to drive! God’s Bridge looks amazing and I love the idea of the cafes in the water 😀
Phil & Michaela
It was a good destination!
Helen Devries
There seem to be a lot of caffs in that spot….if it were in the U.K. I’d be wondering if they had coach tours.
Phil & Michaela
You definitely can’t get coach tours up that road! Cool place though…
ourcrossings
Such an unspoiled, enchanted part of Morocco that takes your breath away
Phil & Michaela
Absolutely!
Andrew Petcher
We went to a place just like that in the Atlas Mountains.
CadyLuck Leedy
Now, that is an adventure! I think the table cafes would have been right up my alley! What did they serve to eat? A beautiful place indeed! Cady
Phil & Michaela
Tagines, tagines and more tagines…..
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
There are such interesting travel experiences in North Africa. An amazing part of the world; a very enjoyable post.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Lynette
leightontravels
Glad to see you back with your own set of wheels. The roadside bakeries look and sound fascinating. This is such a splendid region of natural beauty, you must have savoured every moment of that hike. The cafes in the water and those irresistible tajine pots remind me of my experience in Setti Fatma.
Phil & Michaela
It was a very good little excursion Leighton
Marie
All gorgeous – and your photos are fab – what a trip you’re having!
Phil & Michaela
We are indeed!
Alison
Just amazing you two! Such admiration how intrepid you are. Love the description scalectrix very apt. Lovely to step back in time. Happy to see you weren’t alone on the hike, did look a bit treacherous.
I did comment on Chefchaouen, but doesn’t look like it made it. Glad you managed to get a taxi and hire a car.
Phil & Michaela
Not sure about “intrepid” , it’s all part of the fun! I’ll see if I can find the Chefchaouen comment, Ali x
Alison
I know I wrote it but possibly didn’t post! Doing too many things at once
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
What an adventure. Cafes in the water.
Monkey's Tale
The drive looks spectacular especially the first 2 Rif mountain pictures. The rock formations on the hike are gorgeous too. May have to add this one to a future travels list. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
It’s a slightly unusual hike, but the scenery all around is breathtaking!
ETB Travel Photography
Cool bridge and beautiful water. Look at all those tagines!! I loved tagines at first and then after 10 days I was like give me something else!
Phil & Michaela
Yep, I know exactly what you mean. It’s very possible to get tagined out!
WanderingCanadians
Glad you were able to find a car for the day to explore more of the surrounding area. The scenery along the drive is beautiful and how fun to come across a roadside bakery. The hike to God’s Bridge looks incredible. Visiting the cascades afterwards sounds like a great way to cool down.
grandmisadventures
What a spectacular hike all around! I love the rock bridge- reminds me alot of southern Utah 🙂
wetanddustyroads
The Rif mountains are beautiful – that’s the kind of roads we love to travel. And the hiking trail is stunning – the cafes in the water are such a smart idea! Great photos!
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Corna…you know, I thought you’d like the look of Akchour…
The Nepal Trekking Company
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rkrontheroad
Glad you weren’t trying to cross that bridge! Picturesque scenery, a hike, and a dip in the water sounds like a perfect day even if you weren’t alone driving. Food looks quite tempting. A shame about the place falling apart around you, though!
Kyle Woodhams
beautiful