On To Mojácar: Pink Lakes, Red Prawns & Silver Moonlight
More often than not, when you visit something with a name like “the blue forest” or “the purple mountains”, they’re not really blue or purple, are they. OK so there may be a hint of the colour which gives the place its moniker, but you would never call it vivid. Until, that is, you visit the Lugano Rosa, the “pink lake”, just outside the town of Torrevieja, which is properly, undeniably pink.
It’s rental car time again as we look to fully explore the next section of Spanish coastline and head down into Andalucia, driving south from Alicante and taking a detour specifically to see whether this lake really is the ridiculous shade of pink that the internet would have us believe. And it definitely is. The vast salt lakes around Torrevieja are a significant contributor to the local economy – large salt heaps visible from the highway are testament to that. The crazy pink hue is caused by a mix of bacteria and algae which thrive in salty waters, and is really quite a striking sight, particularly when matched with the deep blue sky on days like today.
A couple of hours on the evocatively named Autovia del Mediterraneo (Mediterranean Highway) carries us past miles of fruit tree plantations and into more rugged and arid terrain which really is spaghetti Western country – among many others, a large part of A Fistful Of Dollars was filmed around here.
Around mid afternoon we leave the Highway and drive the steep hill up to our next destination, Mojácar, a small town balanced right on the top of the highest point in the area. Mojácar is described as being in two halves, but in fact the two different parts are completely separate places, a few kilometres and a bus ride apart. Our base is the compact and quaint pueblo way up on the mountain; the other half, Playa de Mojácar, is a long run of unattractive buildings down at sea level along the waterfront.
In fact it would be hard to imagine two more disparate halves to a town: the pueblo with its Moorish influences, tight streets and ancient gateways with trailing bougainvillea, and the beach town which we can most appropriately describe as Precinct-del-Mar. One is delightful, the other uninspired and uninspiring. The two places should be independently named.
From the top of the ridge at Mojácar The Pueblo, the views across both land and sea are truly stunning; it’s possible to wander out of the alley ways and out on to any edge, taking in panoramas which add up to a wonderful 360-view of the surrounding country. Our apartment is perched right on the edge of one such ridge, granting us some properly expansive views from our outdoor terrace. There are few things in life as relaxing as views like this. We could happily sit here for hours, just gazing.
Our first evening in town coincides with the last night of the….yes, you’ve guessed it…..fiesta. We’re starting to wonder if Spain declares a fiesta every time the sun rises at the correct hour. Oooh look, the sun’s up, let’s have a party tonight. As ever, the whole town population is crammed into the main square, youngsters having just competed in a bicycle race while girls aged between about 4 and 12 wander around in traditional Spanish flamenco style dresses, even down to roses in their hair. They look so cute – and so elegant! Later, a driving rock band takes us well past midnight: the classic rock style (but Spanish) tracks they play are all new to our ears but the locals join in with virtually every chorus. The whole gig is so good that we stay until the very last encore hits its final chord.
Mojácar the pueblo is a gorgeous little town with interesting shops and inviting restaurants tucked away so well that we feel compelled to walk every inch of every street so as not to miss anything. It’s a town full of little surprises. The only downside is that Mojácar probably has more steep streets than anywhere we’ve ever been, and when wandering its alleys we are either on climbs which make the calf muscles scream or descents which assault the knees. Everything is at a 45 degree angle and nowhere is flat – but those stunning views make every single sinew-stretching step worthwhile.
Along the coast from Precinct-del-Mar aka Mojácar Playa is an infinitely more interesting coastal town, Garrucha, where marina meets port meets beach meets interesting back streets. The presence of the rugged port piled high with aggregates from the quarries waiting to be loaded on to the hulking ships alongside the quay just adds to the character.
Garrucha has a culinary claim to fame, and we’re suckers for a local speciality – remember Kep crab and Kampot peppers in Cambodia, cassoulet in Carcassonne, sea urchin in Bari amongst many, many others – so we set about seeking out Garrucha’s “gambas rojos” (red prawns). Unfortunately we don’t have a photograph, probably because the sight of the dish left us reeling – more to do with value for money than anything visually memorable. Unbelievably, our 26 euros buys us….wait for it…FIVE prawns. And they’re not that big, either. Admittedly they were strong tasting, but more than five euros per prawn….oh come on.
As we prepare to move on further south, it’s time to start thinking about where we go from here. Originally we had planned to head up to Porto from southern Spain, but a combination of having taken longer to do Spain “properly” and the fact that we are limited to 90 days in the EU means that we don’t have time to do Portugal justice, so we’re going to move straight on to Morocco. But from Morocco…where? We don’t know yet. Food for thought.
Michaela is asleep now. Somehow in the Mediterranean heat she’s been fighting an energy-sapping head cold to which tonight she has finally had to give in and let sleep do its healing. I’ve just checked on her, she looks so serene that it’s easy to believe that recovery sleep is underway. I’m out here, headphones on and music playing, beneath an almost full moon turning the edges of the clouds silver. Beyond the lights of the coastal towns the Mediterranean has become an intangible expanse of darkness, stretching out to a horizon still just visible at midnight thanks to the glorious moonlight.
These views are magnificent, and so relaxing. Sunrise, blazing sun of the day or the silver hues of moonlight, the views from up here on the ridge below Mojácar are very special. Moments which will linger long in our memory.
My fingers are crossed that Michaela will be her normal bright eyed self again in the morning. I relax on the terrace, listening to music and looking out into the darkness and the moonlight. It’s beautiful. I check on Michaela again: she’s sleeping peacefully. She looks as lovely as those moonlight views.
All in all I think I’m a pretty lucky man.
27 Comments
Alison
Very romantic Phil and I hope Michaela recovers soon. Some gorgeous looking views there, you must be very fit and to stay out past midnight well hats off to you.
Phil & Michaela
Late nights aren’t coming naturally any longer!
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
You are a lucky guy. We had the red prawns in Dénia, and also found them to be very expensive but tasty and full of flavor.
Here is this tipbit: “Red Prawn of Dénia” refers to red prawn from the Mediterranean Sea (Aristeus antenatus) which is caught in the fishing grounds along the sea channel between Cape San Antonio and Ibiza Island. Red Prawn has a high prestige as food produce given its intense sea flavor and its smooth white flesh.
Great post on a fabulous looking town.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you guys…well the red prawns had to be done but no way were they worth that money!
Heyjude
” We could happily sit here for hours, just gazing.” Somehow I don’t think you do much sitting for hours, gazing. Though with those views I certainly could. Hope Michaela is feeling better now, you romantic old thing 🤩
Phil & Michaela
Guilty as charge, your honour
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Mojacar is absolutely stunning! The white pueblo city looks like a place to kick back for a while and relax. The food you pictured looks delicious, but the price of the prawns would’ve been hard to swallow. The views alone, however, would’ve been worth the cost of your apartment. Thank you for sharing this beautiful place. I look forward to following your around in Morocco.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Kellye
Monkey's Tale
I love the look of Mojacar Pueblo and the views it offers are incredible!! Your giving me lots of ideas for a Spanish trip someday. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
And I’ll be needing you to remind me of my Brazil targets soon, too!
Monkey's Tale
😊
wetanddustyroads
Lugano Rosa is pink, right! Love that 15th century gate in Mojacar and wow, the views are spectacular. Really hope Michaela is better soon (she will be when she reads how beautiful you described her while she was sleeping 😉).
Andrew Petcher
Are you going to Marrakech? That lives up to its name of Red City. I do like those pink lakes, my sister lived nearby but she has sold up and come home so I probably won’t see them again.
That 90 day restriction is another Brexit benefit (not).
Never mind you can do Porto some other time.
Phil & Michaela
No not this time, we’ve been to Marrakech twice before – brilliant, exciting city – so unless something changes we’re not planning on a third time.
Andrew Petcher
Have you been to Essaouira?
Phil & Michaela
No that’s a place we haven’t seen
Andrew Petcher
I think that you would like it.
Toonsarah
Lucky indeed (as are we!) Mojácar the pueblo looks delightful and the fiesta sounds fun 😀 I hope Michaela feels better soon and is able to enjoy Morocco!
Lookoom
I didn’t know Mojacar, thank you for bringing it to light. I wish you all the best on your way to Morocco, another country with beautiful cities.
Gilda Baxter
Mojacar Pueblo is very quaint, we spent a couple days there last year. We missed out on visiting the pink lake, it really does look very pink.
Ouch for the price of those prawns!
I hope Michaela is feeling a lot better now.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Gilda
grandmisadventures
A legitimate pink lake- who knew! I just think that is so amazing to see the pink colored water and the piles of salt from it. Looks almost otherworldly 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It’s seriously pink!
WanderingCanadians
Laguno Rosa actually looks pretty pink. Mojacar sounds like it has an interesting vibe given the two distinct parts. Great timing to be there for the last night of the fiesta. Those Europeans sure know how to put on a good festival or celebration!
Parks and Planes
What a spectacular place! The picture of you standing in Laguno Rosa is stunning. Looks like you were the only person there enjoying a quick cool off.
Phil & Michaela
It was pretty quiet, just a handful of people and it’s a big lake!
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