Into Cambodia: Siem Reap & Angkor Wat
Words. One of our airbnb hosts in Vietnam has left a review of us on the website, as they do. When Michaela runs the Vietnamese text through Google translate, the review consists of just three words: “clean tidy happy”. Well, it’s hardly an extended character reference but “clean tidy happy” is a description which we’ll readily accept as a compliment. And on the subject of words, I picked up a T-shirt in Hanoi which carries a slogan which just about sums up my entire life philosophy just now. It reads…”think global, drink local”. Yep, that just about says it all.
As the end of our time in Vietnam approaches, we feel a little sad to be leaving a country with which we’ve fallen in love, and a little sad to be saying farewell to Saigon too – but by the same token, we are, as ever, excited about our next destination.
Our last 24 hours in Vietnam are a bit like a highlights show as Saigon delivers little flashbacks of our past four weeks all condensed into an amusing fragmented collage: something brushes Michaela’s foot as we eat a sumptuous meal – she looks down to see a rat passing beneath our table. Almost as close to our feet are the wheels of the moped armada as their members ride across pavements to avoid stopping at traffic lights on red and, with a sweaty reminder of our time here, humidity levels soar well past 90 per cent and make keeping dry impossible. And finally….walking towards a bar we’d liked the look of during the day, we find ourselves filing past a whole street lined with what my Nan would have quaintly called “ladies of the night”, all looking for business.
Great country, great fun, great city. We will….ahem….miss Saigon, so to speak.
Twilight is bringing a brightness to the lights of town as we take our first walk out into Cambodia, in our first base, the town of Siem Reap, gateway to the Angkor Wat temples. In the great scheme of things we haven’t travelled very far, yet Siem Reap even on first viewing looks very different from most of what we saw in Vietnam, wider streets and lower rise buildings giving a much more open and relaxed feel.
It’s so incredibly hot next morning that the AC in the phone shop is a sanctuary even though we’ve barely walked a mile and it’s not long before the first coconut of Cambodia is on the agenda – whatever would we do without coconuts when it’s as hot as this?
“Good morning, it very hot today”, says a voice from beneath a banyan tree. There is straight away something about Sarim’s smile that says he’s a nice guy. Now, we know that conmen don’t have “I am a rogue” tattooed on their foreheads and one shouldn’t judge a book by its cover, but our time in Siem Reap turns out to back up our judgment: Sarim proves to be a seriously lovely man and goes on to a play a big part in our time here.
For one thing, he introduces us to Vany, a highly knowledgeable and humorous guide who makes our first time at Angkor Wat enjoyable in so many ways. Our advice earlier was that, if we were going to visit the temples more than once, then arrange a guide for visit number one, and then take it ourselves from there. It’s very sound advice, the temple complex is so impossibly huge that it’s difficult to comprehend, let alone find your own way around and see all the major sights at that first visit.
With Vany at our side and Sarim ferrying us between temples in his motor bike-trailer-tuk-tuk, it’s a doddle, and the only “enemy” is the intense, sapping heat. (Blogger’s note: not complaining, intense sapping heat is better than a grey and drizzly English day any time). The temples of Angkor Wat are not only gigantic but they just keep on giving; the more you think you’ve seen the most spectacular bit, the more you go wow at the next one.
This is, after all, the largest religious structure in the world, stretched around some 402 acres. Given that the complex was constructed in the early part of the 12th century it is remarkably well preserved, including the carved graphics along the walls telling stories of royal battles, everyday life and even construction of the temple itself. These carved murals run for hundreds of metres along the walls: Vany’s guidance and knowledge bring a whole different level of understanding, without him there is no way we would know how to interpret the stories for ourselves.
Three levels of carving represent, in one section, Heaven, Earth and Hell; in the battle sections there are clear depictions to identify Khmer, Chinese and Cham fighters; pictures of everyday Khmer life in the temple include cooking, board games, sports, labours and even cock fighting. It’s a veritable encyclopaedia of 12th century Khmer life.
The three main complexes – Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm – are each a fabulous sight in their own right, majestic towers climbing towards the clear sky, the dark stone forming distinctive and pronounced silhouettes. Angkor is as fabulous as it is fascinating, it’s enthralling and captivating, but it’s the scale of the place which is mind blowing – and the extent of those pictorials on the walls too.
It’s well documented and equally well photographed how nature has wrapped itself around the structures here, yet it is still an amazing sight when viewed up close and in person, tree roots and the ancient chunky tails of parasite plants enveloping and clinging to the dark walls. We are staring at the history of centuries, both man made and natural.
Away from the temples and for an extremely reasonable rate Sarim gives us an extended tour around Siem Reap: including the free hospital for women and children which was the life’s work of the much revered and much loved Swiss doctor Beat Richner, memorials and smaller temples, the Royal Palace and the French built Grand Hotel now owned and run by the Raffles Group.
Plus, of course, our first taste of the history of the Khmer Rouge and the brief but horrifying time of Pol Pot’s rule from 1975 to 1979, at the killing fields memorial on the edge of town. During this four year period, with Pol Pot’s twisted view of egalitarianism bringing mass slaughter, over 25% of the entire population of Cambodia was wiped out, most of them through callous, brutal acts of genocide.
Starting with the rich and powerful, moving through those perceived to be privileged – even those privileged through intellect and/or education – and on through the Buddhist monks for whom Pol Pot carried a particular hatred, huge numbers were massacred. One shocking legacy of the Khmer Rouge is that today, less than 30% of the country’s living population was born before 1979.
We will, inevitably, see more of this appalling period of history as we move through Cambodia.
Back in town, evenings are delightful and convivial. The so-called “Pub Street” is alive but nowhere near as manic as Hanoi or Saigon, much more laid back and much kinder on the ear drums. And as for Khmer cuisine…..well, so far, if anything, it’s even better than Vietnamese. In fact, everything is so incredibly tasty that we’ve already concluded that you could choose a meal blind by sticking a pin in a menu – it’s still going to be amazing, whatever you end up ordering.
Away from Pub Street and its neighbour Pithnou Street, Siem Reap is so pleasing on the eye, a genteel town full of tree-lined avenues and graceful buildings, the seemingly stagnant river waiting for May’s rains to come and get it moving again.
We could easily call Siem Reap a sleepy town – as, in the truest sense, it is. In daylight hours its people are asleep everywhere: workmen taking a break in hammocks hastily slung between trees, tuk-tuk drivers reclining in the shade of their carriage, stall holders creeping off for a kip under a tree while their trinkets lay unguarded, girls on benches with hoods pulled over faces, toddlers flaked out in parents’ arms.
It’s not altogether surprising. 37C and 90+% humidity is a combination which makes rest, and water, essential commodities. The sensible townsfolk of Siem Reap aren’t shy of helping themselves to either.
31 Comments
Lookoom
I also remember my trip to Cambodia, how to navigate between the magnificent Angkor and the horrible Pol Pot. It’s a lot of emotions for the visitors.
Alison
Always good to get a guide for places like this. This is one place we’ve never been. It amazes me how people are still allowed to walk over these precious temples. But at least you can soak up the history by placing your hands on the pillars. I think Cambodian people are the nicest and friendliest that I’ve come across. We did Phnom Penh and that was harrowing but it had to be done. Also we had time in Siahnoukvilke which was like paradise. Looking forward to seeing more through your eyes. Are you going to Laos, I love that country.
Phil & Michaela
Early days…5 days in Cambodia…but so far everything is fabulous, including the lovely people. We’ve been to Laos before (on the COVID aborted trip), it was absolutely stunningly beautiful, especially Nong Khiaw. But no we’re not intending to head back there on this trip.
Phil & Michaela
Ali, tell me more about Sihanoukville. Tell me why it was paradise….we’re looking for a few days at a gorgeous coastal location towards the end of our time here. Did you stay right in the town or just outside? Tell me tell me tell me 😄😄
Alison
Hi Phil,
I did write a post about it and just checked but I think I might have trashed it because it was in 2015. Anyway it was called The Sokha Beach Resort, five star right on a private beach. So worth it. The areas outside are a bit dodgy and many Russians. If you do visit better stay at this place. We hired a taxi to there from Phnom Penh. There are some lovely boutique hotels in Phnom Penh, but in general we found it to be a very dirty city. Anyway I know you will do the research!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you my lovely, that’s very useful. We were intending to go to Kep but I think Sihanoukville is starting to be more appealing.
Alison
Well I’ll be looking forward to seeing what you think.
Alison
Hi Phil
Just spoke to my husband and he said Sihanoukville is not so good anymore
Kep is much better apparently!
Phil & Michaela
Yes, our initial research into Sihanoukville is pretty scathing, sounds like it’s been ruined
Alison
Very sad, looking forward to hearing about Kep
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
Hi Guys, I don’t usually drop links to other blogs in comments, but I think you guys are like ships passing in the night with these folks. Their style is a little different, but you both seem to be hitting the same highlights. Might be fun to reach out. https://retirementtravelers.com/
Phil & Michaela
How interesting, we will check it out for sure!
Phil & Michaela
I see what you mean…our paths seem to have crossed quite a few times recently. We’ve subscribed to their site, thank you for the recommendation Suzanne
Toonsarah
You’re right, Angkor Wat is one place where a good guide comes into their own. We would never have properly understood those reliefs carvings without ours. I also really liked Siem Reap as a town and fortunately for us although hot it wasn’t nearly that humid!
Of all the places we’ve travelled and learned about past atrocities, the Khmer Rouge sights in Cambodia were the toughest to take. And yet I found it inspiring how the Cambodian people are moving forwards without forgetting the past.
mochatruffalo
So much to see, but there’s only so much you can do on any single day in that heat. We went in November, and it just sapped all our energy.
grandmisadventures
Angkor Wat is just phenomenal- the more pictures I see of it the more I want to visit in person and just marvel at it. Beautiful pictures! 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It’s really, truly stunning
Mike and Kellye Hefner
The temples are extremely fascinating, and your photos are just beautiful. We would love to visit there someday, but in the meantime, we will tag along with you as you travel through Cambodia. Safe travels, you guys. I’m looking forward to your next post!
Phil & Michaela
Amazing place!
leightontravels
Oh man, the rat story, that happened to us once while having breakfast at a cafe in Kampot, Cambodia. What fun to see all these familiar Siem Reap spots through your eyes. I’m so glad you are finally getting to do it all and of course it has made both Sladja and I quite wistful about the seven months or so we spent living there. Delighted to see Pub Street up and running again. I have a bunch of photos of the place shut down, a proper ghost town during COVID. Looking forward to reading about the rest of your adventures.
Phil & Michaela
More on Siem Reap to follow very shortly. We felt very content there, it was everything you said it would be, Leighton. Loved Wild Cafe too, went there on our last day in town.
wetanddustyroads
There is one thing that is indisputable – Angkor Wat is impressive. The detail on the walls is incredible … still there after so many centuries. And I am amazed every time to see how nature just continues to grow between these centuries old buildings – I can understand that it must be amazing to see it in person. Great photos.
Phil & Michaela
Yes, it’s a fabulous place to see
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Great post and informative information. One day we will see this for ourselves. Cheers!
rkrontheroad
One of the most amazing places I have ever been, and yes, it was important to have a guide to understand some of the stories and civilization. I find myself trying to picture these places full of people, with flowing clothing, religious ceremonies, and the figures on the carving coming alive. Ta Prohm has become a place shared by nature. Great post.
Phil & Michaela
Yes!! I remember standing at various sites but mostly at Delphi, and doing just that, trying to imagine exactly what it was like in its heyday. Siem Reap is a lovely place, Angkor Wat just incredible. It was though unbelievably hot while we were there!
lexklein
You got some great photos at Angkor Wat and the other Angkor sites. I think I was so caught up in being there that I mostly documented with my eyes and not my camera! I liked the laid-back vibe of Siem Reap also.
Phil & Michaela
It’s an incredible place…with some fantastic photo opportunities!
Annie Berger
I know I’m late with a comment but here goes, Phil. Your stories and photos brought me right back to the week we spent in and around Siem Reap many years ago. We were so entranced and intrigued we extended our original three-day pass to a full week pass so we could visit some of the temples further away. One of the highlights for us was attending a fundraiser concert where the hospital founder played his cello or violin (?) in between talking about the hospital, it’s patients and fellow staff. I don’t recall the killing fields memorial in Siem Reap to the atrocities perpetrated by Pol Pot. I wonder if that’s fairly new.
Phil & Michaela
May be so. I’m guessing this would be the Swiss guy who was the founder and benefactor. If so, he died a few years ago and his memorial is outside the hospital. He is spoken of with huge love, affection and admiration by everyone in town.
Annie Berger
Indeed Richner was the same doctor and musician we saw in Siem Reap so many years ago. He was such an inspiration to those in the audience and to his patients. He joked that they referred to him as Beatocello!