Exploring More Of Panama City

Once inside the Iglesia San Francisco de Asis in Plaza Bolivar, the lady behind the cluttered desk motions us towards a door at the side of the church and explains that the nativity scene within is a permanent display, not just for Christmas, and is one of four in Casco Viejo. It’s an extensive and impressive display, but passing through the next door we are cast into some sort of ethereal, pretend world.

In this ante room there is, in working model form, an entire replica of an American town at Christmas time. Fairgrounds are alive, music ekes out from various venues, the Big Top issues sounds of a crowd….lights twinkle, the fallen snow glistens, street lights shine through the gloom. The town in question is, it seems, a provincial town in Minnesota (sorry, we’ve forgotten which one) and it’s all a bit odd seeing it reproduced inside a Catholic church, the result apparently of a visit to the town by a group of students who evidently liked what they saw and brought home the ideas.

A walk around Casco Viejo can easily take in a large amount of the worthwhile sights, so compact is the old city. The unusual facade of the cathedral dominates the main square, Plaza Mayor, its brown sandstone face flanked by gleaming white towers in turn topped with mother of pearl. Just around the corner is Iglesia San Jose where the main eye catcher is the floor to ceiling golden altar. Legend tells us that when the infamous Welsh pirate Henry Morgan brought his rampaging mob through the city, the enterprising congregation quickly covered the entire altar with mud to hide its value, and Morgan, most uncharacteristically, left empty handed.

Now and again on our strolls we emerge from the tight streets out to a view of the Pacific, always punctuated by La Cinta Costera, the low slung viaduct which carries traffic around the old city and across the water in a crescent shaped bypass. Cycle ways and walkways join in to take visitors to vantage points from which to view the skyscraper skyline, the fishing fleet, or the sunset. Construction of the roadway was, as ever in these parts, shrouded in controversy, with UNESCO at one stage threatening withdrawal of Casco Viejo’s heritage status if it was built.

In the event, it was completed, and heritage status was retained, but controversy didn’t go away and the construction company Odebrecht was the subject of the world’s largest ever corruption case, culminating in a 2.6 billion dollar fine and a file for bankruptcy. Its former CEO admitted that the Company had an entire Department committed to negotiating bribes with senior officials throughout Latin America.

At one end of La Cinta Costera is the rather wonderful Mercado de Mariscos, where it is possible to follow the progress of the daily catches, first where the fishing fleet unloads on to the wharf, next in the bustling, lively market itself where locals flock to buy every type of seafood imaginable, and finally to the long row of plastic chair cafes turning the fresh catch into delicious lunches. The Panama version of ceviche differs from Mexico or Costa Rica, in that the curing process uses pickles rather than citrus. Different but just as refreshing.

The seafood is just one aspect of the truly cosmopolitan food scene in Panama City, with restaurants in Casco Viejo and down on the marina islands offering between them just about every conceivable world food – and in our limited experience of the last few days, the quality is high.

Just on the edge of Casco Viejo, just before one of the no-go areas, is Cafe Coca-Cola, a Panama City institution which has been serving local staples to eager clients since 1875, making it the oldest cafe in the city. Dining here makes it easy to see why this place continues to thrive: plain, lively, uncomplicated and by some distance the cheapest place we’ve eaten here. Oh, and the food is so, so satisfying.

Within the safety cordon that protects Casco Viejo from the outside world there is an air of welcome and a spirit of friendliness which means that every wander around the streets takes longer than we expect – everybody wants to talk. And not just those trying to make a sale, either…they just like to stop and chat here. Even the couple in a neighbouring apartment keep engaging us in friendly banter.

“Hola, bueno’ dia’”, they all shout in unison as we walk in to the breakfast cafe with its aromas of coffee and baking.

“How long in Panama?” asks the waiter at the Finca del Mar restaurant as he jigs to the Latin beat while taking our order.

“Oh wow….from Inglaterra, welcome to Panama”, says the shopkeeper as he tries to sell us a hat each (hats are ubiquitous – this is Panama after all). 

“Stay on the big roads and you will be OK”, says an old guy in a green T-shirt, “it is plain you are visitors and I want you to be safe”.

December 20th, our last day on this first sojourn in the capital city, is a public holiday, the National Day Of Mourning when the country remembers those lost on this date and the following days in 1989 when the USA mounted its largest military operation since Vietnam and sent in the troops to oust the President, General Noriega. In a move condemned by the UN General Assembly as a “flagrant violation of international law”, Noriega was indeed ousted and was to serve most of the rest of his life in prison for a variety of crimes committed during his period as de facto dictator.

The Day Of Mourning makes no reference to the former President but instead remembers the many civilians and military personnel who lost their lives during the invasion. Flags fly at half mast and the city is noticeably and significantly quieter, until evening at least when families gather for convivial meals out.

As with many such days throughout the world, the sale of alcohol is prohibited for the full 24 hours of the Day Of Mourning, providing us with a quiet time ourselves on our last night here, perhaps conveniently given our very early start tomorrow on our onward journey to explore the rest of Panama.