Kingston & Bob Marley: The Jamaica Tour Begins
Times were when the Liguanea Club was a preserve of the privileged and the wealthy, stretching across 35 acres of prime Kingston territory and providing a sporting facility second to none in Jamaica, financially out of bounds to the vast majority of the population. Now, reduced in size but still with an impressive array of facilities for tennis, squash and swimming, it’s a relaxing yet relatively inexpensive place to stay with its wood panelled corridors echoing to the sound of visitors’ footsteps. It’s kind of a sports club with bedrooms.
There is an undeniable feel of bygone colonial splendour when taking Jamaican breakfast on the terrace at Liguanea as the sun rises above the city and the surrounding mountains emerge from the morning haze: it’s a bit like a scene from “Death In Paradise”. What it actually is though, is a scene from Dr No, the opening scene in fact, when apparently the first murder is committed, so, as a consequence, 007 paraphernalia is unsurprisingly liberally spread throughout the building. The passing of time may have taken the Liguanea Club from “classy” to somewhere closer to “shabby colonial” but it’s lost none of its ability to make one feel at ease and is rather a serene place to sit and chat.
It’s so easy to fall into conversation with Jamaicans: pleased to welcome visitors to their island, they are free with advice on places to go, helpful with information on island locations and even more happy to talk about rum, all delivered in that endearing, amusing lilt and dialect so enchantingly typical of Jamaica.
“Morning” says Michaela on entering the Digicel store, “I’m looking to buy a tourist SIM please, could you tell me what offers are available?”. The Digicel girl inexplicably dissolves into fits of giggles and has to compose herself before she can respond, which at this stage is a bit of a mystery. We will come to understand later in the day.
The congested, car horn filled thoroughfare which is Hope Road ambles away from the clock tower past the offices and home of the Prime Minister, and past King’s House, the home of the Governor General, to eventually reach two of Kingston’s major attractions, Devon House and the Bob Marley Museum. No visit to Jamaica would be complete without delving into just how much Bob Marley has etched himself into Jamaican culture.
Housed in the very place on Hope Road which was both his home and the location of the Tuff Gong recording studio, the museum provides real insight into Marley’s life, values and beliefs, in particular the oppression of the black majority. Against a backdrop of Jamaica’s tough history of the brutal treatment of slave labour by the white rulers, the harsh treatment of the poorest by corrupt police and callous authorities hit the young boy hard and left an indelible impression.
Having seen his elderly English father desert his much younger mother at a tender age, Marley was raised in the ghetto type surroundings of the appropriately but disturbingly named Trench Town, and saw music not only as his opportunity to escape but, much more importantly, a chance to give a platform to those in society whose voice would never otherwise be heard. Visiting this museum provides real insight into the inspiration behind the music.
The guided tour of the museum is nothing short of excellent, as we learn of the meaning and power of Bob Marley’s lyrics, of the beliefs of the Rastafarian movement and, yes, the importance of marijuana in terms of life, the universe and everything. We are invited as a group to sing excerpts from his songs, see the mixing desks, guitars and platinum discs, learn to play percussion instruments directly from the revered Bongo Herman who is still employed by the Marley family.
Of course, each time the tour group moves from room to room, our guide calls “OK, time for Exodus, movement of da people”, and finishes most sentences with “yeah man”, but this simply serves to add to the engaging and absorbing feel of the tour. Anyone with as much as a passing interest in the evolution of meaningful music should visit this museum and do this tour – it really is that good.
Devon House, meanwhile, is something altogether different: a mansion built by George Steibel, Jamaica’s first black millionaire. Set in sumptuous grounds, this delightful 19th century building is notable for the practical nature of its design: spacious airy rooms in logical order rather than the narrow rooms and draughty corridors so often found in the great houses of England.
Steibel was to die only fifteen years after construction was completed but the grandeur of this delightful and historic property is still very evident today. Devon House is also home to a parlour listed by National Geographic as the 4th best place in the world to eat ice cream, which is one of those facts which only make you wonder where the other three are. You actually get a voucher for a free one as part of completing the tour of the house, and zero, in my book, is about the right price for ice cream as I really don’t like the stuff.
Staff at the House just won’t take no for an answer though and I end up clutching a rapidly melting concoction which (ice cream lovers will hate this) makes the short journey across the lawns straight from parlour to waste bin. Michaela manages roughly half of hers before it suffers the same fate.
Nevertheless, visiting the ice cream cafe is worth it for another reason – as soon as we ask for a bottle of water, the guy dissolves into giggles In precisely the same way that the Digicel girl had earlier. We can’t help but join in with his infectious laughter.
“What’s funny?” we ask through our own giggles.
“It’s your English accent”, he says, “it hilarious man”.
Ah, so that’s it! Just as we’re falling in love with the rich Jamaican dialect which brings a smile to our faces every time we hear it, the locals are just as amused by our accent!
We think we’re going to have fun here.
30 Comments
Mike and Kellye Hefner
It sounds like a great trip already! I find it hilarious that they think your accent is hilarious. When we went to Jamaica – many years ago on our honeymoon – we thought their accents were hilarious. Guess they would think our Texas twangs would be funny too. Back then, they just wanted to know if we were from Dallas because that’s when the TV show “Dallas” was popular. This was a fun post to read, and I’m looking forward to what’s next on your agenda.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you guys, yes an interesting start and more to follow…!
Nemorino
That Bob Marley Museum sounds brilliant.
Phil & Michaela
It really is good, very much “in the vibe” instead of being too formal
Monkey's Tale
You don’t like ice cream! What’s wrong with you two!! The Bob Marley museum sounds awesome!
Phil & Michaela
The museum really is very good, entertaining and informative. Ice cream….I know I’m in a massive minority here and it’s a bit weird considering I will eat just about everything and it’s pretty much my only major dislike….but I just don’t like anything about it! Michaela can take a little bit but she’s not a huge fan either. Gimme some offal any time!!!
Monkey's Tale
ewwww
Lookoom
I wonder if there is a link between your accent and the dislike of icecream, it’s starting to make you very strange people 😉 Great start for Jamaica, looking forward to the rest.
Phil & Michaela
Ha ha I doubt that there’s a connection. I am not a fussy eater, I like just about everything, but not that! I had never met anyone else who didn’t like ice cream, then along comes Michaela who is also not very keen, and I knew it was a match made in heaven!!!
Lookoom
Let it be!
WanderingCanadians
The guided tour through the Bob Marley museum sounds like a great way to get a better understanding and appreciation for his music. I’m still in shock about your dislike for ice cream!!
Phil & Michaela
It really is a very good tour, guys. Helps you to understand reggae a whole lot more. (About the ice cream…..yeah I know, I know….I’m a freak!!)…
Toonsarah
I’m glad you liked the Bob Marley museum as much as you did – I thought it was excellent too. I don’t recall being given music lessons however, but we were lucky enough to see Ziggy Marley there, in the recording studio. I do hope Nine Mile is in your plans too?
But as for not liking ice cream, are you mad?! I love it, especially gelato – on which subject, I’m convinced there are more than three excellent ice creams in Italy alone, never mind the rest of the world, so I suspect Devon House is making an ambitious claim there!
Phil & Michaela
It was really good, Sarah. Yes, Nine Mile is on the planned agenda. Well apparently “4th best” accolade was granted by National Geographic in a “Foodie Travel Heaven” feature. I know I’m in a serious minority with ice cream …. but there you go, we all have our little oddities! Some people (apparently) don’t like beer, now there’s something that I can’t get my head round!!
Toonsarah
Most people think I’m strange because I don’t like peas!
wetanddustyroads
That’s some way to kick off your Jamaica trip … a reminder of James Bond! And of course the man who probably is the face of Jamaica – Bob Marley. Oh, don’t worry … I’ll enjoy two ice-creams soon to make up for the loss of yours and Michaela’s! I imagine by the end of your trip, you will be able to mix your English accent well with that of the Jamaicans 😉.
Phil & Michaela
Yes it was – though being in Kingston is a little odd in some ways (see next post). Yeah so when we come to South Africa you can get the beers out, put the meat on the braai and keep the ice cream in the freezer!
wetanddustyroads
Oh, but ice cream won’t even feature when there are beers and a braai … so, you don’t have to worry!
leightontravels
I had to delay finishing the reading after your ice cream comment. Laughed so hard I thought I might cry. Jamaica does look and feel like a dream, even from this early article. The blue skies, the laid-back vibe, the lush greenery. And then the Bob Marley Museum… I have to get there one day. The history of the Liguanea Club is similarly exciting, I have vague memories of the Dr. No scene in question. What a grand old building Devon House is, your trip has clearly gotten off to a fantastic start.
Phil & Michaela
Cheers bud….I think we’re going to see quite a bit of variety as we move around the island, according to what we’ve been told…
grandmisadventures
Oh I am already excited to follow along on this adventure! How interesting to learn more about the musical icon of Bob Marley! The people there sound really fun and welcoming 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Hi Meg, yes it’s been an interesting start but we’re very eager to see more of the island
giacomoasinello
That’s funny! I once interviewed an American girl on the phone. She dissolved into giggles too before apologizing and explaining, “I thought people only spoke like you in films!”
Phil & Michaela
Yep, “related to the royal family” and all that…
Alison
I think I could have a few days at Devon House, looks wonderful. I didn’t realise Bob Marley had an English father.
People still laugh at my accent, even my hubby and daughter, so rude.
Phil & Michaela
Nor did we….but if you read about Marley Snr, he wasn’t a particularly honourable or impressionable figure, so I think he’s been a bit written out of history..
Rochelle | Adventuresfromelle
Ha! Not quite sure what’s so amusing about the British accent but I’m glad it makes you feel welcome 😊 ☺️ I’m appalled at what became of that precious ice cream cone too 🤣🤣 I didn’t know you weren’t fond of ice cream but I’m still glad you tried it! I’ve now finally caught up on your Jamaican series 🙂 Keep them coming
rkrontheroad
I love that they giggled at your accent. Their way of speaking sounds so musical to me. The Bob Marley museum had some stories we wouldn’t have known, and so nice that they encouraged you to participate in the music. I wouldn’t pass up the chance to have some of the best ice cream on the planet!!
Phil & Michaela
Patois is extremely musical and so endearing. As I said in a subsequent post, we working really hard to tune in….but dat not easy man.
rkrontheroad
😄