Breakfast With Peacocks, Coca-Cola Burps & Drinking Pox: Tales From San Cristobal
Emerging somewhat bleary eyed from the overnight bus journey – although we both slept better than we thought we would – and blinking in the morning sun, the crisp freshness of the mountain air strikes us immediately. After several stays in humid locations over the last few weeks, culminating in the cloying air of Palenque, it feels like a completely different climate here. We are some 2,100 metres higher above sea level than we were in Palenque and it is instantly noticeably different.
This is San Cristobal de las Casas, where evenings will be chilly and, if all goes according to plan, virtually the last point at which we feel colder air on this trip. The fresh air feels good, but it’s back to sweatshirts and trousers after dark. So intense was the humidity of Palenque that our clothes feel unpleasantly damp as we unload our backpacks in our new home; clearly it’s time to seek out a laundry.
San Cristobal has been a destination for travellers for several decades, drawn by its reputation as a stronghold for tradition, set in the midst of one of the most deeply rooted indigenous areas of Mexico. Tribal dress is commonplace, not for show but more through custom, as women in particular go about their daily business in traditional finery: sweeping colourful dresses for some, feathery woollen skirts for others. The differences in style are due to differing tribal origins, mostly the tzotzil and tzetzal tribes.
As a consequence of the popularity of travel to here, artisan markets and shops have sprung up all over town. Through the years, “San Cris” has attracted artists, craftsmen and other bohemian travellers who have settled here amongst the indigenous people and created a spiritual, almost hippy-style community. Dreadlocks and floating outfits are nearly as common as tribal wear.
With its colourful low rise buildings facing each other across narrow cobbled streets, San Cristobal is so very attractive, given further character by the tree clad mountains which encircle the town. Its churches are expansive and equally colourful, each seeming to have its own colour scheme distinct from the others. All of the narrow streets in the compact centre are one-way, with just a few car free streets close to the cathedral, all adding up to a beautifully quaint setting.
The churches of the town possess a real individuality beyond their colourful exterior: intricate golden detail adorns the walls of Santo Domingo de Guzman, red white and green neon illuminates the inside of Guadalupe. Jesus is presented in uncharacteristic purple robes, and then in a sparkling silver gown; one church is laden with flowers, another with garlands.
Bell towers of the churches rise above all other buildings, suburbs creep up the mountainsides, cars by definition can move only slowly across the uneven cobbles and around 90-degree corners, clothes shops shout bright colours and the town smells of coffee and chocolate.
We find ourselves billeted in a ridiculously large house here, tucked hacienda style between streets and completely hidden from view. Thinking we were renting just part of the house, we find ourselves instead with five double bedrooms, four bathrooms, large lounge and kitchen, wooden beamed ceilings and castle-like staircases. All for the price of…for a whole week, less than one night in a San Francisco hotel.
And this is where the peacocks come in. Outside in the sizeable garden there are two males and two females, plus a large unidentified fowl with a fluffy chick in tow. As airbnb stays go, this is one BIG property. We’re not quite sure how we’ve ended up with the whole place to ourselves. I’m not quite sure where Michaela is half the time, either – my calls of “where are you?” being met usually with a distant and echoey “up here”.
The presence and the influence of the indigenous tribes is powerful and unmissable here, in San Cristobal itself and in the surrounding mountain villages, so much so that this was the birthplace of the Zapatista movement, an organisation which has fought – physically and politically – to protect the rights of those indigenous peoples.
Ancient mystical beliefs are interwoven with modern day living in strange and intriguing ways, none more so than the influence of Coca-Cola. Incredibly, the tribal peoples of the Chiapas region consume more of it than anyone else on the planet – an astonishing TWO LITRES per person per day, including children! The origins of this date from when the first introduction of Coca-Cola to these parts made it cheaper than clean water.
Even more amazing is the fact that Coke has become completely intertwined with mystical beliefs, forming part of deeply religious ceremonies to the point where the inevitable burping which follows consumption is seen as a method of expelling evil spirits from the body, bizarre as that may seem. Drink cola, burp, and you are cleansed.
The epicentre of this intriguing enclave is the village of San Juan Chemula, our visit there is so full of oddities that the story will appear in our next post.
The longer we are here, the more we come to appreciate that San Cristobal is something of a foodie paradise. As long as you avoid the over touristy restaurants around the zocalo, the town literally teems with great eateries in virtually every neighbourhood, whether it’s traditional comidas, upscale restaurants or simple street food stalls. There’s great food for every budget.
Like so many mountain and remote areas, Chiapas state has its own examples of local delicacies – drinks wise, these are pozol and pox. Pozol is a non-alcoholic drink made from cacao and corn and served cold, a kind of thick and grainy chocolate drink. Pox, meanwhile, is the local firewater. Fortunately, it’s pronounced “posh” – fortunately because it sounds a lot better to say “I’m drinking posh” than it does to say “I’m drinking pox”. Available with a variety of flavourings, it’s a strong alcoholic drink made from a sugarcane base.
An hour or so from San Cristobal is the spectacular Sumidero Canyon where the Rio Grijalva flows between the sides of a gorge up to 800 metres high. Our views from the top of the canyon are unfortunately mostly obscured by the swirling cloud below, but the ride on a “lancha” (a form of elongated motor boat) is more rewarding, ploughing through the choppy waters between those colossal canyon sides to the village of Chiapa de Corzo.
Crocodiles bask in the sunshine at the water’s edge while pelicans plunge headlong into the river to snare their prey and raptors circle overhead. Waterfalls drop from such ridiculous heights that half of the cascading water drifts away on the breeze and never makes it to the foot of the fall.
On board the lancha we are reminded of the good and bad sides of organised tours: without it, we wouldn’t get to ride through this amazing canyon, but at the same time it’s hard not to be irritated by the young girls on board who spend twice as much time posing for selfies as they do admiring the scenery. Oh, this modern world huh.
San Cristobal de las Casas is rapidly endearing itself to us with its unique characteristics. Our next post will see us venture out of town to delve more deeply into some of the tribal mystique and take a peek under the surface of a very different world.
32 Comments
Mike and Kellye Hefner
What a wonderfully colorful place from the dress to the buildings to the flowers! The churches are intriguing, as most churches are, however, I (Kellye) don’t believe I have ever seen neon lighting up an altar before. Sumidero Canyon is absolutely stunning (even if there are crocodiles along the banks), and it reminds me somewhat of the fjord we saw in Alaska. Thank you for sharing San Cristobal (and your Airbnb) with us. I am excited to see where your next adventure takes us.
Phil & Michaela
Thanks guys x
mochatruffalo
Love the dog in the baja!
Phil & Michaela
And the baja matches my own exactly!
normareadtalktalknet
How totally fascinating and colourful 😁
Monkey's Tale
Ok I’ll take one of the extra rooms in your house! Love the canyon, not the swlfie-takers. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
We could fit you and several others in it!
Heyjude
Gosh, I don’t think I have seen such a colourful place. You are certainly having a lot of great experiences on your travels. Where next I wonder.
Phil & Michaela
Hi Jude, well the place we visited yesterday is one of the strangest places we’ve ever been. Will be in our next piece!
Gilda Baxter
Looks very pretty and quaint, so many interesting churches.
I am intrigued by all the Coca-Cola drinking and I guess they drink the full sugar one?
I can understand your frustration with the Instagram influencers posing for photos, it can be very irritating indeed.
Phil & Michaela
Yep, it’s all full throttle Coca-Cola. But in a religious ceremony?? Crazy. Wait till you see the next instalment Gilda!
Lookoom
You manage to capture the amosphere so well through your photos and your words.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you
Born To Travel
Love the photos of the wonderful accommodation and awesome canyon. It’s such a shame that the locals drink so much Coke. If Coca Cola had a conscience they’d bring in bottled water instead. Hate to see the current generation of kids’ teeth in the future! Cheers, Mark
Phil & Michaela
Hi Mark, yes you can see the results whenever you illicit a smile from anyone. The weirdest bit is the religious significance though, it really is odd. And I think because of that it’s too late to get them to change to water!
Alison
Such a pretty town and the house looks enormous as you say, you really struck lucky. There must be many diabetics there and bad teeth! Tours are a pain sometimes but best to go on them to see what there is, don’t want to be rowing yourself down a crocodile infested river!
Phil & Michaela
I still can’t believe that it has become part of religious ceremonies!
Alison
That is so strange, obviously someone with an addiction to Coke
And the burp 😄
Phil & Michaela
All very weird!
Toonsarah
What with the colourful houses, beautiful churches and traditional dress I had already decided this was a town for me. Then you say it smells of coffee and chocolate, and is a foodie heaven – what more could I ask?! The canyon looks lovely too but I share your frustration with the ‘gram obsessed selfie takers! Can’t wait to see where your next post is taking us, it sounds intriguing 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Hi Sarah, well that village turned out to be – honestly – one of the strangest places we’ve ever been, as you’ll see!
Sam Hankss
It all sounds fantastic!
Phil & Michaela
It is, and Mexico is proving to be far more varied than we thought, having been to just one region previously
Sam Hankss
And the photos are incredible! Looking forward to reading more about the your travels around the country.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Sam!
Andrew Petcher
Looks wonderful, especially that market.
Latitude Adjustment, A tale of two travelers!
We will take whichever room Monkeys Tale does not want. What a deal.
leightontravels
Seems like we are late for the party, but any rooms left for us? We are very quiet, and we cook. 🙂 It is all gorgeous in this vibrant place: tribal traditions and way of life, its distinct churches, nature and food. The aromas of chocolate and coffee floating around, perfection.
wetanddustyroads
A really lovely place – colourful and beautiful churches (and it smells like chocolate and coffee – that is a great selling point). Your accommodation … my word, you could have rented it out to more people while being there! Great views of the town (and the canyons – those spraying waterfalls are amazing)!
Annie Berger
Even though Steven and I met in Mexico, I sadly know so little about the country. Thanks for educating me to the beauty of the vast country through your text and photos.
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Annie, it’s been a great trip so far in a very welcoming country
grandmisadventures
What a delight to be so immersed in indigenous culture and stunning natural beauty!