Serifos, And A Rethink
The first inkling we get that our calculated risk may not pay off is when we disembark the ferry on Serifos at just after 9am. Backpacking on the Greek islands is easy out of season, but this will be our first attempt at it during August when the islands are at their busiest.
Not knowing what the effect of COVID travel restrictions will be, we’ve decided to risk it and see how it goes on the first island and make our judgments from there. And then we get that first clue: not a single room hawker on the quay waiting to meet the ferry. The lady in the office marked “accommodation” is equally unpromising.
“You don’t have a reservation?”
“No we don’t”.
“Why?”
She makes a couple of phone calls, shakes her head and explains that it will be very difficult, Serifos is full and there probably isn’t a spare bed on the whole island. August is when the Greeks go on holiday.
“You are very lucky” says Nikos (yes, another Nikos), “my guests go home early. I have one apartment empty for three nights”. Nikos is about our tenth call either in person or by phone, and shows us to the perfectly adequate Iris Apartment, nestled one street back from the waterfront in the port town Livadia. We conclude that just bowling up without a booking is going to be too risky from here onwards, we’re going to have to be a bit more structured.
Our tiny house 
Our tiny house
Reality really dawns though as we activate our next plan and go on the usual websites to book ahead: not only is Serifos full, but so are Sifnos and Milos, our next two intended islands. Nikos confirms our fears and says we will have little hope of getting lucky. So, with resourcefulness called for, we decide to go for a long ferry journey and get much further away from the mainland, start our island journey from a different place and maybe work our way back to the Cyclades later. This is a complete change to our original plan.
So after considerable discussion, ferry tickets secured and next accommodation reserved, we will now only be on Serifos, and in the Cyclades, for those three days, after which we will embark on a lengthy journey to Crete, from where we will hatch a new plan.
And that plan may well involve a later return to the Cyclades, once August is over, because Serifos is lovely. In fact it’s not only a lovely island, but it’s great being here when it’s full of Greeks on holiday, adding a real something to the atmosphere.
With such a short time on the island we don’t get too much chance to explore, but the two main centres here, as with many Greek islands, are the port town and the hilltop village or Chora. Livadia, the former, has a lovely collection of restaurants along the waterfront which sweeps around the bay in a near perfect curve. Tamarisk trees provide shelter on each of its two beaches, white houses glint in the sunlight and the town buzzes with activity.
Livadi Beach, Serifos
A regular bus service links Livadia and Chora, ambling slowly up the tight hairpins and steep inclines along roads which are only just wide enough. Hilltop Chora is an absolute delight, a picturesque village which is like a microcosm of the Cyclades: everything typically Cycladean is here, the sugar cube houses, the tiny alleys, the blue painted chapel roofs, the group of old guys sat outside the cafe, and of course at the very top, an ancient chapel and the remains of a castle (kastro).
Tucked inside the tiny alley ways is a miniature square which, having been baked in open sunshine all day, comes alive after dark, with queues forming for each of the eateries and the constant babble of the Greek holidaymakers filling the air. Our couple of hours there, devouring island food and quaffing the slightly strange but nonetheless pleasant local rosé wine, is absolutely memorable.
Chora Square 
Chora Square 
Town Hall 
Chora Square
The visitor here is truly spoilt for choice for evenings on Serifos, with Livadia’s seafront and Chora’s miniature square each being wonderful settings for an evening meal. There are also a series of walking trails mostly based around Chora: we follow just the one (downhill only, another cop out we’re afraid!) back down to Livadia from the top.
Chora Square by night 
Serifos’s crystal clear waters are noticeably cooler than the waters of the mainland, providing the perfect respite from the afternoon sun. There is no doubt we would have liked more time on Serifos, more time in the Cyclades, but out of necessity it’s time for a new plan. And so it’s Crete next.
Chora 
Chora 
Chora 
View from Chora
19 Comments
Heyjude
Wow, it looks so Greek! A reminder of why I loved backpacking through the islands when I was young. Always fancied Crete, but yet to get there. I shall look forward to your adventures.
wetanddustyroads
Absolutely agree with Heyjude … this looks like Greece! The Livadia beach seems like a great place to enjoy the sun and what beautiful views you had from Chora!
Great, can’t wait for photos from Crete 😄.
Joe
I constantly marvel at your resourcefulness and adaptability when things don’t go as planned. In the end, your adventures always make for great stories. I’m glad you are off to Crete, as it is on my short-list of future destinations.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you very much Joe, yep, we certainly didn’t expect to be in Crete at this point!
Gilda Baxter
Livadi Beach looks so beautiful. I have never been to this island and therefore it is wonderful to see through your great photos and descriptions.
Changing plans are sometimes the best plan.
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Gilda. We would definitely like to have stayed longer on those Cyclades islands but it’s fun to be having an adventure!
Annie Berger
Ditto on your resourcefulness when plans of mice and men go awry! Never heard of Serifos – looks idyllic with the combination of each and town in which to while away your time. Here’s hoping you’ll have an equally fabulous time in Crete. I’m sure I wouldn’t recognize it any longer as I was there for Christmas of 1974!
Phil & Michaela
Well we knew it was a calculated risk. It’s quite fun to have to change plans though, we’re enjoying the sense of adventure it brings! Christmas’74…wow!
Lookoom
Serifos is indeed a beautiful place, I’m curious if you show of it later on. In the meantime Crete, for a plan B, is not a bad plan; rather a Greet/k plan!
WanderingCanadians
Serifos looks gorgeous. That’s too bad that you won’t be able to spend too much time there, but hey, at least you managed to find a room for three nights!
Phil & Michaela
It beats being stuck at home that’s for sure
Toonsarah
I confess I hadn’t heard of Serifos but looking at your photos I immediately want to go! Not in August however; that would be far too hot for me 😀 But a late summer / early autumn visit would be just perfect!
By the way we’ve decided to take the plunge and have our first trip abroad since Covid. Nothing as long or as adventurous as yours but hopefully a long weekend in Paris to celebrate our 40th wedding anniversary ❤
Phil & Michaela
Wa hey! One of our absolute favourite cities, we both still love being in Paris. Have a fab time…when is it?
grandmisadventures
beautiful picture of Chora! What a crazy time you’ve had of it this trip with trying to get where you need to go and finding somewhere to stay. But it seems like things always work out okay which I’m glad for. Loving following along on your trip 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Meg, much appreciated!
Jyothi
Beautiful captures! Gorgeous view from Chora!!
John and Susan Pazera
Lovely photos! We admire your spontaneity and ability to make the most of a limited time in a place. Looking forward to hearing about your adventures in Crete!
rkrontheroad
You have made it work, despite the crowds and problems! My son and I wandered around Sifnos years ago, the potter’s island, potters in every town. It was big enough for lots of beaches and hikes as well as the blue and white building scenes. Enjoyed your photos of an island I didn’t know about!
Phil & Michaela
Yes we were a little sad to miss Sifnos but are now planning to get there later on in this trip