England,  Photography,  Travel Blog,  Walking

Once More To Southern Shores

May 20, 2021 /

With this visit to Cornwall entering its last few days, we endeavour to find a further mix of road trips and coastal walks to sign off in style. Our first attempt to return to the south coast is thwarted by a jet black storm hanging above the cliffs and dumping incessant heavy rain, in marked contrast to the “light showers” forecast by the BBC. By evening things have cheered up back in Padstow and the steak and Merlot we enjoy in The Old Custom House pub easily makes up for a lost day.

Wednesday May 19th we make a more successful attempt to visit…..

POLPERRO

By whatever criteria you judge quaint Cornish fishing villages, Polperro has to be in the top few, clustered tightly around the sheltered harbour it is, if anything, even tighter, even more cramped, even more photogenic and picturesque than all of the others. It is of course also very popular and very much a tourist destination, but, as we’ve said many times on our world travels, there is always a reason that somewhere becomes popular. It’s not for nothing that Polperro is a destination for so many visitors to Cornwall.

After the “mini weather bomb” day on the Tuesday, today is much more friendly and Polperro blinks in sunlight as its puddles dry out. The narrow river which runs alongside the roadway and makes the approach to the harbour even more attractive is rushing and foaming as yesterday’s rain tumbles down from the hills. 

Wonky buildings overhang the river; freshwater waders mix with seabirds, centuries old buildings huddle together inside the labyrinthine passageways. You almost have to pinch yourself to believe its real. Its popularity means that Polperro is probably not everybody’s cup of tea, but you cannot deny its charm. 

We wander its alleyways and climb each of the headlands either side of the harbour for great views back to the tidy little town, grab a quayside cappuccino and a bite from the baker’s before heading five miles along the coast road to….

LOOE

Looe is less of a typical fishing village and more of a Fowey or a Falmouth, in that the town is split in half by a wide (wide for Cornwall) river as it sweeps out into the sea. The eastern side of the town houses much of the retail and eatery areas, access to the modest town beach and a ridiculously quaint railway station at the end of the Looe Valley Line. 

Fishing boats and private craft bob in the river water as egrets, swans and mallards search for food while the more aggressive gulls simply wait to steal someone’s pasty. An attractive multi arched stone bridge connects East and West Looe, and there is undeniably something rather pleasing about strolling through this town, with its steep side streets enticing us to take detours at regular intervals. Most of these detours lead us nowhere, or back to where we started, but on all of them we are rewarded with either panoramic views or by stumbling upon a splendid building or two.

Sunshine does its best to penetrate the wind which remains chilly for May; two guys mooring a small fishing boat loudly curse the ongoing poor weather. It’s a double whammy when your income depends on it.

As we mill around these tight streets and alleys we are again struck by the look and the number of great old pubs in town, but unfortunately we are of course driving today. Maybe another time….

….which only serves to help us enjoy the fish, chips and pints of Tribute at The Shipwrights tonight just that little bit more.

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