Touring Puglia’s Adriatic Coastline

Part of our aim of this trip was to use Molfetta as our base to explore the Adriatic coast in both directions. This is what we’ve discovered over the last few days, simply in order of discovery.

Bisceglie

A short drive north from Molfetta brings us to Bisceglie, a much larger settlement than it looks on the maps and at first impression a fairly uninviting urban sprawl. But tucked away down the slopes to the waterfront is a rather elegant riviera style bay, expensive yachts moored in the protected waters and stylish restaurants lining the curve of the bay. The town’s beautifully kept beaches are pristine white pebble, perfectly offsetting the gorgeous blue sea. 

Trani

Next stop on this northbound sortie is the location of the first truly sandy beaches we have found, Trani. Missing out the main town we head straight to the waterfront where the busy beach has a handful of attractive restaurants; the water is calm and shallow thanks mostly to a protective boulder barrier placed 100 yards or so offshore. Lunch is good, and a little time out on the beach is welcome.

Bari

The following day we head south to Puglia’s capital and largest city Bari, this time by train, which takes just under half an hour and is incredibly reasonable at 1.3 euros each. A walk through the newer parts of the city reveals palm lined avenues, pedestrianised streets and inevitably in Italy, classy shops. 

Between this area and the port lies the rather wonderful old city, a collection of characterful and atmospheric narrow streets in a labyrinthine pattern. Churches and piazzas appear unexpectedly around corners, the cathedral and the Chiesa St Nicolas towering above the clustered buildings below. St Nicolas’ tomb is housed in the latter – but don’t tell the children that Father Christmas is dead! 

The old city oozes character and charm, not least because so much of it is clearly still private dwellings. Washing lines, potted plants, private shrines and chatting women considerably outnumber the souvenir shops and restaurants and it’s all very quaint. 

There is a giant ugly cruise ship leering over the port, its passengers no doubt being led around Bari by someone hoisting a brolly and hurrying them along.

Along the seafront we come across a fish stall, and grab an opportunity to tick off a bucket list item: we eat sea urchin! First time we’ve done so, and it seems to marry the texture of soft roe with the flavour of mussels. Dip in your bread and enjoy!

Of course, Bari is a destination resort with renowned beaches, but these are south of the main city and aren’t on our agenda for this 1-day visit. For us the joy of Bari is the old city though, so full of character and so stimulating. 

Lunch gives us our comedy moment of the day as for the first time on this entire trip we manage to choose a trattoria which is cash only, and we don’t have enough. Consequently we get marched some distance by the waiter, through the streets of Bari to a distant ATM – which is empty! Weirdly, even the waiter is now flummoxed and has to keep asking strangers for directions to the nearest ATM. It’s some time before he pockets his 29 euros.