Easter, and a Tale of Two Cities

Less than a week after returning from an enlightening trip to Jordan we find ourselves enjoying what the BBC tells us are temperatures close to a record for Easter, although that stat should be tempered a little by how late Easter is this year.

We feel very lucky to live where we do, just a mile or so from the sea, ten minutes drive from Canterbury, one of England’s most beautiful old cities, and within easy reach of London. Good Friday sees us spend some time in the former, Saturday we have a London day.

Canterbury is a city of interesting demographic mixes. It is primarily a well heeled city with with a populace to match, but also has a large student population due to its universities. Add to that the fact that there is usually a large contingent of French and Belgian visitors over on a day trip or short break and you have an eclectic mix. Inside its ancient city walls and around its cathedral, Canterbury’s narrow cobbled streets are charm personified, its green spaces beautiful.

One of these green spaces is Greyfriars Garden, a haven of peace next to the River Stour and, in part, a small island within the river, right in the heart of the old city. We doze in the sun on the grass for a while.

London though is different. Truly one of the greatest cities of the entire world, we feel proud of our heritage and privileged to live so close. We follow a walk today, having just discovered a great little website, discoveringbritain.org, full of interesting walks and interesting facts.

We opt for a walk around St Paul’s, taking in an entertaining mix of well known landmarks and hidden unknown gems. The thing about a great city is that there’s always something new to discover. The walk’s theme is the weather, and the part which extreme weather has played in shaping London’s history.

Amongst many great sites, we visit something which we had no idea existed, though we must have walked past it many times. This is the Church of St Dunstan In The East. The church’s design was attributed to Sir Christopher Wren though is believed to be the work of his daughter Jane, but whichever was rebuilt by them following the Great Fire of London in 1666. It stood intact until the German bombings in 1940, when it was heavily damaged though the spire and exterior walls survived. Since the 1960s, the space inside the walls, so the original church interior, has been a tranquil garden, hiding from the bustle of the city and providing a remarkably peaceful escape for those needing a moment’s rest and reflection.

We also see, close to the Tower of London, the head office of Trinity House, controller of, among other things, the lighthouses of England and Wales. It was within this building that a chap named Robert Fitzroy invented the notion of weather forecasts, designed initially of course to reduce the dangers for seafarers, thousands of whom perished every year in those days.

Our walk is fun and informative, and a good deal quirky, we will definitely use that website again. 

And so with our walk in the warm sun complete, it’s time to reward ourselves with a generous helping of English beer. After a couple of beer stops, we gravitate towards The Market Porter at Borough Market, which continues to be one of our top favourites amongst all of London’s many great pubs. A Lebanese meal in Thayer Street, another favourite spot, rounds off a hugely enjoyable Easter Saturday.

Travel is fantastic. Loving where you live is a bonus.