From Setúbal To The Algarve
When we stumble more by luck than judgment on a tourist information office near the ferry point, the lady is more than eager to present us with a glossy booklet entitled “Setúbal, Portugal’s Best Kept Secret”. Well, there’s enough people here for it not to be called a secret, but, given how lovely the city and surrounding area is, it’s definitely surprising that Setúbal wouldn’t appear on most people’s list of favourite destinations in Portugal. It’s on ours, for sure.
Setúbal has an old city centre of atmospheric narrow streets and alleys which open every now and again into exciting plazas (pracas) of varying sizes, each one buzzing with chatter and filled with an engaging charm. Outside of the centre, the rest of Setúbal has a calm and somehow “ordinary” air about it, yet its natural setting is anything but ordinary.
Across the Sado estuary is the Troia peninsula, very much a holidaymakers’ (and golfers’) destination but with the added attraction of spectacular sandy beaches backed by hefty dunes. The stiff afternoon breeze off the Atlantic is respite from the hot sun and, equally, ample evidence of how the dunes were formed in the first place. Troia is reached by garish green ferries which circumnavigate the handful of large freight ships waiting to dock at the bigger industrial port.
As soon as we leave Setúbal’s suburbs the scenery turns hilly, and lush green, as we head out (via uber, you know why) into the Arrabida national park where spectacular pine clad hills sweep down rugged cliffs to the blue Atlantic. We exit the uber near the village of Portinho to clamber down a tricky trail to a mysterious chapel within a cave where the surf teases that it will enter and destroy but stays just shy of doing so. The cave has a certain spookiness about it, enhanced by the gigantic cobwebs which hang from the rocks above our heads and leave us wondering just how big are the creatures which created them.
Returning to the road we walk down into Portinho village itself, a picturesque seafront hamlet which serves as a remote gateway to some gorgeous beaches. We visit Praia da Portinho and Praia da Figueirinha, enjoying a little downtime after our weeks of travel, finding the beaches beautifully situated between the blue sea and the wooded hills which create the perfect backdrop for a lazy beach.
Setúbal never stops delivering on the food front, this place is a foodie’s dream whether we opt for the marisquerias, the restaurants in the old town or the unbelievably fabulous tapas bar which calls itself Tapas na Baixa. With its laid back feel, gorgeous old town and easy access to spectacular coastal scenery and countryside, Setúbal is almost the ideal summer destination. Why “almost”? Well, if the sea was warm instead of Atlantic cold, I reckon Michaela would be looking for long term lets instead of moving on.
We depart Setúbal on a quiet Sunday morning, and three trains and two changes later we arrive in Holiday Land where estates of vacation homes are called “urbanisations” and menus are written in at least four languages. Our journey through Portugal is almost complete in terms of reaching the south coast, we’re now in the renowned holiday region of the Algarve where we hope to discover some quiet and more authentic corners whilst also seeing some of those resort towns for ourselves. Our next home, Carvoeiro, is without doubt in the latter category.
Our travels only very rarely include holiday hotspots, especially in high season, but in terms of destination our minds are closed to nothing so this will be an interesting week on different levels. Even hardened travellers need a holiday, you know! Our first impressions on arrival are that our base of Carvoeiro is a resort town at a certain level, whereas, a short drive down the coast, Ferragudo is perhaps something of a step up.
Ferragudo, with its medieval castle high on the rocks above the beach, retains an active fishing fleet and boasts quaint back streets and a small but lively square where tables at the several restaurants fill up quickly after 6pm. Unusually, the ancient castle is now a private dwelling – that’s some huge home for the wealthy owner.
In its defence, Carvoeiro does have considerable worthwhile attractions of its own, all based around the fantastic natural rock formations along the spectacular coastline. Millions of years of erosion by wind and sea has created the most amazing sculptures along the stretch of coast known as Algar Seco, which we view first by walking along the clifftop walkway and second from the sea.
The boardwalk undulates and meanders past the most spectacular views, but with several breaks allowing off-piste detours out to the edge. All around, nature’s carvings are amazing, with caves, overhangs and blow holes featuring regularly in the craggy limestone as the Atlantic, though calm today, heaves in and out secure in the knowledge that it will continue to pound away at this rocky shoreline for evermore. A lunchtime boat trip provides different vistas of the same stretch – but further, along to the even more spectacular caves of Benagil.
Our boat ventures into a few caves where the darkness is total, another where the roof has collapsed to form two circular holes through which the sun forms a bright disc on the sand below. It’s a great boat trip providing wonderful views of the dramatic coastline – but it’s hot today and, as we leave the last cave behind, the opportunity to dive from the boat into the open sea is just too tempting.
From the amount of time we’ve spent on the north coast of Cornwall over the years, we know the changing moods of the Atlantic very well, and on our final afternoon in Carvoeiro, its mood turns playful, large waves sending grown men flying (yep, including me), and soaking the belongings of those silly enough to set up camp on what is obviously tidal sand on a day when the incoming tide is being accompanied by large waves. Why would you do that?!
Anyway, we’ve had our first taste of the Algarve – literally, in the shape of the local dish cataplana – and indulging in the same sun, sand and sea treats as all of the other many visitors. As we said, even hardened travellers can enjoy a holiday! From Carvoeiro we head next to what will be our last destination in Portugal before we leave the country and begin the next leg of our Porto to Mostar folly.
In the meantime we haven’t quite finished with sun, sand and sea just yet…
43 Comments
restlessjo
I half expected to meet you in the back streets of Ferragudo, Phil. We were there on Wednesday, on our way back from Salema. Still no driving license in prospect? It’s easy to get around this end by train. The west coast has to be buses. When do you fly to Mostar? xx
Phil & Michaela
There is good news on the licence front! Ah well, Mostar is way down the line…tell you tomorrow!
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
It looks like you had a wonderful sun, sand and sea time of it and very much enjoyed Setúbal despite the need for Uber. I’m looking forward to your take on Mostar. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
It’ll be a while till we’re in Mostar, Lynette. We’re taking a slow route, will probably be there early October 😀
Eha Carr
Wow! I am honestly starstruck! Don’t know what to say except ‘clever lucky you’ from the sea and the sand to the statues and the dolphins and the not-too-busy interesting colourful streets and my beloved bougainvillea in such luscious bloom! BUT, if I had to choose just one place and one photo – for sure it would be that fish market in Setubal > I do not think I shall ever dare brag about the Sydney one again . . , that size, those wide passages, so much choice and the decorations . . .
Phil & Michaela
Setúbal is a great city, Eha, with so much to love. As for the fish market, we don’t think we’ve ever seen so many different types of seafood on sale at one location before!
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
We chose Carvoeiro as a destination because of its proximity to the Benagil Caves and enjoyed the location very much. Of all the stops along the way, which would you want to spend more time in? There is so much to love about Portugal. I look forward to your continued journey.
Phil & Michaela
That’s a hard one to answer, Suzanne, simply because everywhere has turned out to be a great destination. If pushed I’d probably say Setúbal…
MrsWayfarer
Enjoy your holiday! The coastal spots you visited look absolutely charming. The sun, sand and sea are calling me just from your photos.
Phil & Michaela
It’s good to have a bit of time out even in the middle of long term travel!
Monkey's Tale
It’s a beautiful part of the country. Did you not walk the 7 Hanging Valleys Trail? One end of it is Carvoeiro. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
No we didn’t, Maggie…read about it but didn’t include into the agenda. Spectacular coastline along the Algar Seco though, huh.
Monkey's Tale
It is spectacular!
Annie Berger
Yet more fabulous places to add to a cute Portuguese itinerary, Phil. The caves seem unbelievably beautiful!
Phil & Michaela
Fabulous stretch of coastline Annie, even if we are in the heart of a tourist hotspot!
Miriam
It all looks and sounds absolutely gorgeous. Look forward to more of your wonderful journeys!
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Miriam….long way to go on this one yet…
Toonsarah
Setúbal looks lovely, and worth braving the chill of the Atlantic waters for. I can’t say the Algarve at the height of summer appeals to me – not just because of the crowds but also (mainly) the heat, however Ferragudo does look rather good 🙂
Phil & Michaela
We’re enjoying our little “holiday within travel” break a lot more than we thought we might, Sarah. It’s been a great few days really…
Helen Devries
Hoping WP or the gremlins of Costa Rica – let this one through. I’ve been enjoying your travels inPortugal…but must say that of all the places you have visited Setubal appeals to me most….
Phil & Michaela
And through it came. Yep there’s something special about Setúbal. Liked it a lot.
Andrew Petcher
I first went to Carvoeiro in 1985 when it was still a remote fishing village, much changed now of course.
Phil & Michaela
Very much so. Funnily enough I first visited the Algarve in 1990 and wasn’t really taken with it. This time, counter intuitively, I’ve enjoyed it more!
Andrew Petcher
It isn’t my favourite but do not tell Jo. I do like Tavira I have to say.
Phil & Michaela
Well if Jo didn’t know before, she does now 😂.
Andrew Petcher
Lagos and Silves are very nice but the central beach strip is too touristic. Also more expensive.
Phil & Michaela
Agreed. But our travels very rarely take us to holiday hotspots in high season, and it’s been a bit of fun to see it for the first time in absolutely years.
WanderingCanadians
Setubal looks lovely. It’s too bad the water was so cold though. But hey, it forced you to keep exploring, so it’s probably for the best! The rugged coastline around Carvoeiro is beautiful, as are all those sea caves.
Phil & Michaela
We still managed a few dips!
The Flask Half Full
Normally, caves are on my “hard pass” list, but I might have been brave enough to go inside one(s) with a natural skylight. Beautiful. Love the charm of Ferragudo, but man, even your pictures look hot. Portugal in August? You are hardy folks. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
Yep, pretty hot. Love it!
Alison
Another gorgeous destination. You’ve really shown us the best of Portugal. I wonder if the sea is as cold as in Perth. I’m just about getting used to it.
Phil & Michaela
The Atlantic is always pretty cold but since we moved further south it’s definitely losing its chill..
grandmisadventures
Seems like a great and beautiful collection of streets to wander down and caves to marvel at 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Portugal’s been great, Meg….so many lovely places…
Parks and Planes
Portugal truly has it all! Carvoeiro and the whole of Algarve has been on our radar for years now – your photos make us want to book a flight there asap. Hope you’re having a relaxing time even if places are crowded with many late summer tourists 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It really has been a lovely trip through a lovely country. So many lovely places.
Lookoom
Pretty little towns, but I wonder what they would be like without the tourist trade.
Phil & Michaela
Less prosperous, that’s for sure
wetanddustyroads
As I suspected from your previous post, Setúbal is a beautiful place! I love the sea caves (beautiful photos of them by the way). I was a bit startled when I saw that little beach in Carvoeiro, but sometimes you have to bite the bullet to see the beauty around such tourist hot spots.
Phil & Michaela
We actually had fun there. Wouldn’t want to stay too long or make a habit of such holiday hotspots, but it was fun to be part of it for a couple of days.
saltofportugal
Great photos!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you!