Fort Kochi, Town Of Rich Cultural Heritage

Our journey through Kerala is set to take us to ancient coastal cities, up into the misty mountains, through tea plantations, into the backwaters then down to red cliffs, a seaside holiday resort and even a specialist ayurvedic retreat. But we start here at Fort Kochi, which soon shows itself to be an utterly absorbing, multi faceted city with so many elements to its character and so many different aspects that it’s difficult to know where to start.

So we’ll start with its rather unique geographical setting. Fort Kochi, its neighbouring towns and cities and even the giant sprawling Cochin city sit on what you might term a broken coastline, built on multiple islands, promontories and irregular sea inlets. It’s a coastline of which Slartibartfast would be proud. (Award yourself three house points if you understand that reference).

Ginger warehouse

So unusual is the setting that Fort Kochi’s metro system is waterborne – it’s called the “metro” but it’s a large system of ferry routes connecting all points of the towns and cities – see the map below. To catch a metro costs a flat fee of 50 rupees, whereas the old RoRo ferry to Vypeen costs just 3, and remember it’s 121 rupees to the £. It’s an efficient and clean system and is enough fun so as to be an integral part of the Fort Kochi/Cochin experience.

From geography to history. The strategic coastal position of the area saw the development of a busy and wealthy port even in medieval times, thought originally to bring together Arabian and Chinese traders. A gigantic tsunami in 1341 reshaped the entire coast (so it wasn’t Slartibartfast after all!), creating amongst other things the deep sea port which has been a backbone of the local economy ever since. Attracted by the potential wealth, the Portuguese muscled in during the 16th century, only to be ousted by the Dutch at the invitation of the Cochin royal family around 100 years on. Britain, of course, came later.

Successive rulers of a province with ever shifting boundaries built palaces here, forts were constructed to protect territory, and churches of many different denominations began to thrive. When India achieved independence from Britain in 1947, the Cochin province was the very first state in the country to voluntarily join the new Indian dominion. This illustrious and varied history has left a town today which is substantially rich in culture and heritage.

In fact, one of the area’s most iconic sights has its origins long before any Europeans brought their influences. The Chinese fishing nets which provide such a fascinating vista along the shores are thought to be a legacy of 5th century traders who brought the methodology from the Far East. Nothing has changed in the operation of these ingenious devices to this day, and it’s still possible to watch the fishermen endeavouring to snare the catch at almost any hour. Operated purely on a manpower and weighted pulley system, the large nets are lowered and raised every few minutes; the billowing nets then inspected for content as the savvy egrets and fish eagles wait, poised to intercept. Watching the process unfold is mesmerising.

The quaint streets of Fort Kochi town conceal courtyard cafes, beautiful low level colonial buildings grace the narrow thoroughfares, the whole town exudes a calmness so different from the north of India. Art cafes and art galleries abound, a year round penchant for artistry which is seriously magnified right now as the town plays host to the “Biennale”, India’s premier contemporary art event which this year has attracted contributors from 25 countries. The art cafes also give us our first taste of the rather delectable South Indian coffee. Man it’s good.

Fort Kochi art cafe scene

Yet the centre of Fort Kochi isn’t the only fascinating part of town as the streets wind and turn into Jew Town, once home to a Jewish enclave numbering 2,000 and still sporting beautiful architecture with clear legacies of that community even though their numbers have since dwindled significantly. The Paradesi synagogue here, believed to be the oldest synagogue in the Commonwealth, has a remarkable feature underfoot, the flooring with beautifully hand painted ceramic tiles. These tiles, which are still walked upon by all visitors (without shoes), were painted before paint as we know it was invented, finished entirely in vegetable extracts and yet still pristine nearly 500 years on. Amazing.

Turn more corners and continue to be surprised. In how many towns of the size of Fort Kochi can one wander past a synagogue, a Catholic cathedral, mosques, Hindu temples, a Syrian orthodox church and an Anglican church all within close proximity – surely evidence of a tolerant and integrated society.

Close by Jew Town stands the so called Dutch Palace at Mattancherry, originally built not as the name would suggest but by the Portuguese in the 16th century and gifted to local royalty. Its local name comes from the fact that the site was largely reimagined and rebuilt by the Dutch when it was their turn to hold sway. The Palace today houses an extensive museum charting much of the history of Cochin and its royal rulers.

Frescoes within the Palace

During our time in Fort Kochi we take just the one excursion out of town, to the waterfalls at Athirappilly. The falls, impressive even today in dry season, must be an astonishing sight when the waters of the monsoon come crashing over the lofty and lengthy shelf. It’s only as we enter the last half hour of the journey that we get a hint of Kerala’s beautiful countryside, the remainder of the drive having been a battle through the giant, sprawling tentacles of Cochin city, so much bigger than we knew.

There are so many other elements which enhance the delightful feel of Fort Kochi. Strolling its streets, one is enveloped by its history, absorbed by its relaxed atmosphere, wowed by its beautiful architecture and entertained by its artwork. It’s actually quite hard to do justice in words to this multi-layered, fascinating place so rich in culture, so steeped in heritage. As I near the end of this piece of narrative I feel that I have barely touched the surface of what an intriguing place this is; hopefully Michaela’s photography will plug any gaps.

Dhoby Khan – Fort Kochi’s laundry

Fort Kochi has seen us enjoy our first ever Indian homestay, which has been a highly rewarding experience. Jensen and Andria have unquestionably been amongst our best ever hosts anywhere on our travels – totally hospitable, caring, helpful and sociable; our farewells are heartfelt. But as ever for the traveller, the time has come to move on.

From Fort Kochi we head, literally, to the hills. Four hours inland lies the mountain city of Munnar, set amid wonderful scenery and extensive tea plantations, our next stop on the journey through Kerala.