Continuing South: Sintra, Lisbon & Setubal
Obviously we can’t risk having the documents – you know, those documents which were in my wallet when some light fingered asshole lifted it from my pocket on the Porto metro – delivered to an airbnb apartment, especially when our stays are so short. No need to worry, DHL’s website says it’s incredibly simple to have your package delivered to one of their “Service Centres” where they will hold it for collection.
Our friend Jason back home is now in possession of my replacement documents, so we send him, as instructed on said website, to his local DHL man, who refuses to help Jason and tells him it can only be done online. Not what the website says. So we go on line, and “incredibly simple” turns out to mean “can’t find how to do it”. Email Customer Services. Get a reply saying categorically, there is no such service.
So, DHL, this service which your website says is “incredibly simple”, actually doesn’t even exist. Customer Services my arse. However, we may now have found an alternative solution. Fingers crossed that the last act of this particular saga is coming into view.
The closure of Pena Palace, much to our chagrin and detailed in our previous post, means we have a spare Monday which we fill by doing something we rarely do on our travels, visit a beach resort town in high season. Cascais looks beautiful in photographs and, sure enough, the rugged coastline just north of the centre is rewardingly typical of Atlantic shores, surf crashing against jagged rocks just as dramatically as it surges through eroded dores.
In Cascais town, rammed with typically touristy bars and prices with bad tasting extra percentages, the two beaches are hilariously busy, but it doesn’t stop us joining in – the Atlantic is refreshingly cool on this hot day, and we doze off in the sunshine despite being surrounded by acres of exposed human flesh. Well, when in Rome…
Returning to Sintra, the town has, as happens every day, filled with coach parties and train loads, all arriving to visit Pena but today learning on arrival of its unscheduled closure. The result is that everyone is stuck down in the town, it’s considerably more busy even than usual with streets, shops and cafes all bursting at their respective seams with loose-end visitors trying hard to fill their day. Somewhere around early evening they all vanish and we feel kind of smug as we head to a now empty table at the wonderful petisco bar downtown. We do, though, share everyone’s disappointment at the closure.
Our Monday at Cascais followed a super Sunday in Lisbon: I’d all but forgotten what a lovely city it is, but it doesn’t take long for it to remind me. We spend an absolutely splendid day wandering its streets, admiring its plazas, riding the fabulous old trams and rising to the top of the “elevador”. The hilltop castle is an excellent destination despite the large number of visitors and all in all this capital city provides a terrific day’s excursion. And then…and then….
Our very good friends from America, Terrie and Charles, know more than a thing or two about food, drink and the places to buy them, so when Charles recommends a Lisbon wine bar by describing it as his favourite wine bar in the entire world, it becomes a red line on our Lisbon plan. As we knew they would be, Terrie and Charles are spot on. The Old Pharmacy is indeed fabulous and we’ve worked our way through several Douros and numerous platefuls of absolutely delicious petiscos before we head to the train back to Sintra. Possibly not in a straight line.
Lisbon visited, time to move on to our next stop.
Sintra too is done, “sem Pena”, as we continue our journey southwards towards the Mediterranean, heading now for the coastal city of Setubal, a train journey which involves a change at Sete Rios and, with an injection of the spectacular, a crossing of the incredible bridge across the Tagus River between Lisbon and Almada.
The city of Setubal then springs one of those surprises which is enough to strengthen the belief in fate. This is the point where we were absolutely intending to pick up a rental car and head to a few inland towns, mostly using Setubal as a base for adventure – but with my absent licence a potential complication and Michaela less than keen on long drives, we spend our first half day exploring it and becoming more than a little enamoured with the tight alleys of the old city.
Nevertheless we wander to the hire car hub where three separate companies are….closed, despite the opening hours on the door saying they shouldn’t be. Somehow it feels like it’s meant to be, and, fate playing its card over the next few days, we are soon to forget about rental cars and come to enjoy the city of Setubal infinitely more than we anticipated. Our immediate neighbourhood, all tight winding streets around the cathedral, is simply one of those places which wins you over in a matter of minutes.
Fountains, statues, cool architecture, tiny plazas, secret corners. And yet, outside of the compact old town, one of those laid back, ordinary cities where daily life exists in an aura of peace, all of it exuding the kind of “real” which we so love to discover. Setubal feels quickly like somewhere we could easily hang around a while. And yet just out there, not far beyond our doorstep, there are sandy beaches, pine forests, Roman ruins….we don’t reckon we’re going to miss that rental car after all…
Setubal is so our kind of place.
Choco frito? Know what that is? Cuttlefish in a lightly fried coating, served with garlic mayo dip. Cooked sublimely. Then there’s the prawns (shrimps) in garlic and ginger. And fresh fish on the grill. A tapas bar ever so slightly beyond belief. I don’t remember dying but I appear to have somehow wound up in foodie heaven.
Setubal is absolutely our kind of place.
38 Comments
Andrew Petcher
I did not like Cascais at all, but I did like Setbal. Choco Frito, what a treat, thanks for the memory nudge.
Phil & Michaela
Cascais is a fairly routine holiday spot really….but we really loved Setubal, more to follow on that in next post…
restlessjo
I thought you might like Setubal. As I said, a very real place. In the old side we were quite surprised to find people living in buildings that appeared to be about to topple over… but didn’t! Cascais is a pretty half day, out of season. Lisboa? Well, she’s well serenaded. I didn’t know about The Old Pharmacy so I’ll put that one in my notes somewhere, and almost certainly forget it. Good luck with the next stage. After Troia? xx
Phil & Michaela
We’ll be posting more about Setubal, absolutely loved it. In fact if it was warm water and not the Atlantic I think Michaela would spend all summer there! Lisbon/a was a brilliant day out but kinda glad we did it as a 1-day excursion rather than staying. We moved on from Setubal today, just settling in to our next digs in Carvoeiro. It’ll be next stop Olhao after that.
restlessjo
Oh, Lord! Carvoeiro isn’t a favourite but the cliffs are beautiful. Hope you have good digs xx
Phil & Michaela
Well, one of the very few drawbacks of travelling like this is that if & when you hit popular areas in high season, finding places to stay can be tricky. Here in Carvoeiro we’re about a mile up the hill from the seafront bit, in what they delightfully call an “urbanisation”. The apartment is OK inside though and we will use Carvoeiro as a base to explore.
restlessjo
We stayed out past the Tivoli last year when we did the 7 Hanging Valleys. Like so much around here it’s changed beyond belief since we did Algar Seco 20 years ago xx
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
I loved Lisbon when I visited. Thanks for reminding me. And yes, it sounds as though you had very wonderful food. My kind of visit, too! Too bad about DHL and what a circus! One time I needed to have some documents shipped (I wasn’t robbed; these weren’t travel or identification documents) to Izmir, Turkey. Went very smoothly with DHL. I enjoyed looking through all your photos, especially of the food!
Phil & Michaela
It’s the lack of delivery address that threw them, despite what their website says. Lisbon was terrific, but we’re pleased we made it a day trip and didn’t stay there. The other places we stayed were better locations.
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
I visited during the off-season so it was a lot quieter although I don’t think off-seasons really exist any more.
Eha Carr
Smiled at how two-kids-in-love you looked at The Old Pharmacy in Lisbon . . . and, loved walking around Setubal with you and then > being an ardent foodie myself, came upon all those tapas shots and now I am stuck ’cause the mouse refuses to scroll back up >> top row right and second row middle with my first glass, please !!!
Phil & Michaela
You could close your eyes and pick any – they were all absolutely delicious! Kids in love? Must be the vino!! 😂
Toonsarah
Setubal looks and sounds like the perfect place to be ‘stuck’ without a driving license! I enjoyed seeing Cascais again – I spent a happy few days there many years ago (2009 I think) at a VT meet. Good to see O’Neils is still there as that was VT central for the weekend 😀
Phil & Michaela
We loved Setubal, Sarah, more about that in next post. Cascais was…hmmm…busy!
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
Cascais is lovely, and I would always recommend a visit there, but it doesn’t quite capture the essence of Portugal. We used it as a ‘down day’ on our last trip, and it served its purpose well. I am glad you guys branched out beyond the typical destinations – as well you do. Michaela’s photos tell the story of Lisbon – vibrant, busy, fun. This city should be on everyone’s list. I’m not familiar with Setubal, but it is now on my radar. Part of the joy of being in Portugal for us is the food and wine. The food collage is making me salivate. Thanks again for the beautiful reminders of a beautiful place.
I hope your DL issues are resolved soon. That’s a headache, but you seem to be thriving despite the setback. Looking forward to the next installment.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, Suzanne. Setubal really was great, more to follow on that. Down days are essential when travelling long term, we find, aren’t they. Especially when the food is as good as this!
Heyjude
I have to say that I actually liked Cascais when we spent a few days there, although it was very hot and we avoided the beach. We took the bus to Sintra from there. Lovely revisiting these places again with you, though you certainly manage to find the better restaurants.
Phil & Michaela
Cascais has, I imagine, upped its resort status since you were here, it’s not bashful these days! Loved the rugged coast around it though.
Heyjude
It was, and probably always has been a resort for Lisbonites, but we avoided the main tourist drag and enjoyed the park and the coast to the north and where we stayed in the peaceful suburb within walking distance of everything we wanted.
Phil & Michaela
It was certainly OK for a day excursion, although the “ha” took a while to clear
normareadtalktalknet
Omg looks amazing …
Phil & Michaela
Such a great country, Normski. So many good places, so much great food!
Monkey's Tale
We loved Sesimbra too. Unfortunately we didn’t know and stayed in Sesimbra which is cute but not nearly as nice.
Phil & Michaela
Sesimbra? Don’t know it, but Setubal was really great, very special place which ticks loads of boxes..
Monkey's Tale
Sesimbra is the next city over, on the other side of Arrabida Park.
The Flask Half Full
Putting The Old Pharmacy on our list for the next time we’re in Lisbon. We’ve spent time in northern Portugal, but not Lisbon or south. Unless you count the 8 hour layover we had in Lisbon airport. No favorite wine bars there. Hope you get your DHL saga worked out. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
Sensational wine bar! Oh and btw they only serve Portuguese wine, nothing imported, but wow what a selection. Also, I meant to say to you (as you know about these things) I think I’ve identified the grape variety which has triggered my love of Douro reds. Anything with Touriga Nacional in the blend is hitting all the right notes.
The Flask Half Full
That’s the BEST kind of wine bar to find in a place – nothing but local wines. Touriga Nacional is a key grape in both Douro reds and port wine. A wonderful player in all those Douro red blends. And it’s really showing promise as a stand alone variety, too. Saúde!
WanderingCanadians
Your experience with DHL sounds incredibly frustrating! While you weren’t able to get your documents sorted, it sounds like it was meant to be given how much you enjoyed Setubal and its food.
Phil & Michaela
Yep, turning out OK so far!
Annie Berger
What a schmozzle getting your paperwork sent to you courtesy of DHL, Phil. Oh well, it sounded like a blessing in disguise as you had wonderful experiences in Lisbon and Setubal that you wouldn’t have had otherwise. The travel gods were with you on that one!
Phil & Michaela
Yep, it’s all been a pain in the proverbial but some things turn out well in ways you don’t expect…
grandmisadventures
What a beautiful collection of places…not to mention a grand array of delicious looking food. That’s so frustrating though about the “customer service” to have your documents sent
Phil & Michaela
Portugal has been a joy so far, so many really lovely places.
Lookoom
Lisbon is a beautiful city that manages to combine the flow of visitors with local activity. Even when visiting the city’s major monuments, you feel like you are in a real city and not just a museum.
Phil & Michaela
Yep, exactly
wetanddustyroads
Our first introduction to Portugal was in Lisbon – a city that excited me to explore the rest of Portugal. And Setubal is beautiful (a place we didn’t visit, but your photos make me think we missed out on a special place – especially when I look at your food).
Phil & Michaela
We loved Setubal…very underrated, and yes, a foodie heaven!